Mixed cichlid tank

[Chris.K]

I am about to get a new tank, (aquaone 120), which is 285L with the following dimensions: 120W x 67H x 46D cm. the wife and kids spent a bit of time marking out what sort of fish they'd like to see in the tank and the following list is what they've come up with so far. we will be buying all of them as small juveniles.

Aulonocara Rubescens Red Rubin

Aulonocara Baenschi

Haplochromis sp. Ruby Green

Labidochromis Caeruleus Electric yellow

Melanochromis Maingano

Nimbochromis Venustus

Otopharynx Lithobates (ZIM)

Pseudotropheus Saulosi

Sciaenochromis Fryeri Electric Blue

Xystichromis Phytophagus

which ones do you guys recommend ? any of these that definately wont work together ? are any of them really hard to keep for a beginner ? i understand that i cant have all of these species in the same tank and the LFS told me that with some of them i am better to get multiples rather than one of each. they also recommend adding around 4-6 fish per week-ish until i am fully stocked at around 25 tops.

thanks for any help and guidance.

[yanke]

I am about to get a new tank, (aquaone 120), which is 285L with the following dimensions: 120W x 67H x 46D cm. the wife and kids spent a bit of time marking out what sort of fish they'd like to see in the tank and the following list is what they've come up with so far. we will be buying all of them as small juveniles.

Aulonocara Rubescens Red Rubin

Aulonocara Stuartgranti Chiloelo

Aulonocara Baenschi

Buccochromis Rhoadesii

Buccochromis Lepturus

Hemichromis Lifalili Jewel

Haplochromis sp. Ruby Green

Labidochromis Caeruleus Electric yellow

Labeotropheus Trewavasae (ZIM)

Melanochromis Maingano

Nimbochromis Livingstonii

Nimbochromis Venustus

Otopharynx Lithobates (ZIM)

Pseudotropheus Saulosi

Sciaenochromis Fryeri Electric Blue

Xystichromis Phytophagus

which ones do you guys recommend ? any of these that definately wont work together ? are any of them really hard to keep for a beginner ? i understand that i cant have all of these species in the same tank and the LFS told me that with some of them i am better to get multiples rather than one of each. they also recommend adding around 4-6 fish per week-ish until i am fully stocked at around 25 tops.

thanks for any help and guidance.

hi

if u are getting Aulonocara only get 1 of them

unless u are getting only males

yanke

[firthy13]

forget about:

Nimbochromis Livingstonii

Nimbochromis Venustus

Buccochromis Rhoadesii

Buccochromis Lepturus

they get way to big for that size tank, will be fine as juvies but will have dramas when they get bigger.

your best bet is to go for mbuna if you are just starting out. eg saulosi, yellows, maingano would be perfect all very colourful and great fish to watch.

the thing with aulonocara sp,Sciaenochromis Fryeri, o. lithobates is that the females are just silver and males have all the colour, if its for a display tank you want colourful fish im my opinion.

instead of having 1 or 2 of everything, think about picking 3 fish u really like and get 7-8 of each. that way to can observe breeding as well.

[Chris.K]

firthy do you mean all of them together in the same tank or not buying any of them at all ? thats certianly not consistent with the advice i have receieved from 3 different sydney aquariums.

[killiguy]

I agree with firthy

You essentially have 4 groups of fish:

big piscivores Nimbochromis,buccochromis electric blues-despite your advice I would avoid them for the size tank you have

peacefull midsized sand or interface dwellers ;the peacocks,

the Mbuna

and others ;non Lake Malawis

With the size tank you have a Mbuna tank would be ideal,the electric yellows and trewavase(also fuellborni)bieng relatively peaceful,Melanochromis may dominate but are beautiful.

A peacock only tank would need to be male only unless you didnt breed from them as they would hydridize.Peacocks and the more peaceful Mbuna can go together.

[yanke]

hi

some times the fish store will

tell u what u want to hear that

way they can sell u the fish

remmber that

talk to the people that have had the fish

and know what will and will not go

together in the size tank u have

yanke

[firthy13]

to keep any Buccochromis you really need a 6ftx2ftx2ft (680 litres)

Buccochromis rhoadesii grow to 40cm long and isnt the tank you are buying only 46cm wide??

not to mention they can swallow a full grown mbuna in a mouthfull.

nimbochromis can to 25-30cm and get unbelievably aggressive if not given enough space. i have a 450 liter and i was having trouble with a 10 cm male venustus attacking everyting from pleco's to frontosa 3 times its size..

mbuna is deffinately the way to go with that size of your tank..

[Chris.K]

thanks. will keep all of the advice in mind.

[Chris.K]

have decided on a slightly lager tank given the advice here. so have moved to a aquagrande 150 as opposed to the 120. only drama is i have to wait 2 months for it to get here cos there is no stock of this size in Oz.

[cpfc]

You could always look in the classifieds section or revise your selection. Have a read of this as well - http://www.aceforums.com.au/index.php?showtopic=46629. The bigger the tank the better anyway.

There are several ways to do things and different opinions depending on tank size, fish age and male to female ratios.

have decided on a slightly lager tank given the advice here. so have moved to a aquagrande 150 as opposed to the 120. only drama is i have to wait 2 months for it to get here cos there is no stock of this size in Oz.

[Chris.K]

You could always look in the classifieds section or revise your selection. Have a read of this as well - http://www.aceforums.com.au/index.php?showtopic=46629. The bigger the tank the better anyway.

There are several ways to do things and different opinions depending on tank size, fish age and male to female ratios.

thanks. i thought of that to save a few bucks aswell but i'm too new to this hobby to be doing that, dont know how to set up, dont know what to look for or danger signs of used tanks etc.. i'll just spend a bit more up front, get the "experts" to set me up and be prepared. hopefully this will be a long hobby so if i can build a good relationship with my LFS they'll look after me in future with rocks, fish, decorations etc

eg: when i went to upgrade the tank i asked if i needed another heater and he said yeah and they'll throw it in for nothing. its only $30odd for a heater but the gesture sure was impressive.

the one thing i'm unsure about is the filter. should i get a canister filter aswell as the built in one on the tank ? ie: will it help keep the water clearer ? by alot ? a little ?

also, i have seen on youtube some electronic ph monitoring things. what are they all about ? seems like a good idea.

[cpfc]

I have had several recommendations to use a backup cannister filter with the overhead for cichlids. This is for the extra bio breakdown capability which consumes ammonia and nitrites as well as redundancy in case one powerhead goes. Basically an overstocked cichlid tank will produce a lot more waste than a tank full of tetras. I am loading the overhead filter with a lot of matrix (a bio media which bacteria populate). I am not using the aquaone media as I bought some wool, carbon and filter socks from Age of Aquariums in bulk (see link above). The aqua one media is pricier but easier.

I also have a sachet of Seachem Purigen which will go with the carbon in the overhead filter for ease of access. Apparently the purigen helps polish the water that bit more.

The cannister came with the tank and is 500lph. The spray bar from the cannister also helps with aeration and water circulation. The aeration and circulation help keep the water oxygenated which in turn helps maximise the bacterial activity which clean the aquarium. I am also interested whether an airstone is necessary as well to maximise circulation and aeration.

I do not know about the electronic pH device (I hear they are also available at Jcar). I find it easy enough with the test kit and test weekly before water changes but others may know. I also test for other things at the same time. When putting in new fish I test more frequently.

I bought the tank second hand as I would not have been able to get the capex from the wife otherwise. I have learnt a bit from putting it together myself and taking time.

You could always look in the classifieds section or revise your selection. Have a read of this as well - http://www.aceforums.com.au/index.php?showtopic=46629. The bigger the tank the better anyway.

There are several ways to do things and different opinions depending on tank size, fish age and male to female ratios.

thanks. i thought of that to save a few bucks aswell but i'm too new to this hobby to be doing that, dont know how to set up, dont know what to look for or danger signs of used tanks etc.. i'll just spend a bit more up front, get the "experts" to set me up and be prepared. hopefully this will be a long hobby so if i can build a good relationship with my LFS they'll look after me in future with rocks, fish, decorations etc

eg: when i went to upgrade the tank i asked if i needed another heater and he said yeah and they'll throw it in for nothing. its only $30odd for a heater but the gesture sure was impressive.

the one thing i'm unsure about is the filter. should i get a canister filter aswell as the built in one on the tank ? ie: will it help keep the water clearer ? by alot ? a little ?

also, i have seen on youtube some electronic ph monitoring things. what are they all about ? seems like a good idea.

[mattrox]

I would run an external filter, minimum size would be fluval 405, or equivalent in other brands, (I run fluvals and don't am not really up with the other canisters of a similar size). If you could push to $445 +postage (the best price I have seen online) a fluval FX5 would be tops.

Get a good test kit, the API master test kit is ideal. You can test pH with your regular maintanence.

[cpfc]

Here is a good review on the Fluval - http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/s...ead.php?t=68458

Lots of people swear by EHeim but they do come at a price. First point will be deciding on what flow rate you want on top of you overhead filter.

I would run an external filter, minimum size would be fluval 405, or equivalent in other brands, (I run fluvals and don't am not really up with the other canisters of a similar size). If you could push to $445 +postage (the best price I have seen online) a fluval FX5 would be tops.

Get a good test kit, the API master test kit is ideal. You can test pH with your regular maintanence.

[Citypainter]

A nice little Fluval fx5.

About the smae size as my 30+kg lab.

Might be over kill but you will have good water

[Jess]

A nice little Fluval fx5.

About the smae size as my 30+kg lab.

Might be over kill but you will have good water

FX5 is a bit over kill. I did consider it too but shy on the power bill.

I just built up a 5x2x2 tank and bought a Rena XP4 from Age of Aquarium ( ACE sponsor); it is surprisingly light on power consumption compare to others in its class. Still only $295 on special +$ 7.95 delivery.

[Citypainter]

I thought that pic would speak volumes

[Chris.K]

I thought that pic would speak volumes

it did ! lol great pic.

i have no problem with overkill for filtration. its one area i am willing to get more than i need. the clarity of the water is very important, especially since this tank is going in the main living area of the house.

[cpfc]

If offered the FX5 I would not say no. If I had a choice I would go EHeim.

For clarity purigen is the go. Search this site and you will see what I mean. That is the easy part.

Otherwise with an overstocked Cichlid tank bio capacity is what you need. My secondary cannister is 500 litres per hour which is double tank capacity. The overhead is 1000 lph. With purigen on hand and the lack of plants, my main aim is bio capaciy. The cannister has noodles and bio balls. The overhead has live rock (I think that is what it is but it came with tank) and matrix. In theory matrix will get the anearobic bacteria that munches on nitrates. It takes time to get going. Either way the purigen will clarify the water and hopefully the other stuff will make it non poisonous.

What I found interesting about the Fluval vs EHeim review was the difference in cycling time between the EHeim and the Fluval.

If I were in the market for a cannister I would be looking at the EHeim wet and Dry. I would love to know the real world impact on ammonia/nitrites.

I thought that pic would speak volumes

it did ! lol great pic.

i have no problem with overkill for filtration. its one area i am willing to get more than i need. the clarity of the water is very important, especially since this tank is going in the main living area of the house.

[fongyfong]

A nice little Fluval fx5.

About the smae size as my 30+kg lab.

Might be over kill but you will have good water

Wont be a overkill no such thing as too much filtration, only thing id be worried about for a tank his size the fx5 will turn his tank into a tank into a tusnami and water will be moving everywher, if you want 3500 lPH turnover get two 1500 litre canisters

[Chris.K]

Wont be a overkill no such thing as too much filtration, only thing id be worried about for a tank his size the fx5 will turn his tank into a tank into a tusnami and water will be moving everywher, if you want 3500 lPH turnover get two 1500 litre canisters

the tank i've decided on is a 430L tank, (as opposed to the tank in the OP). i would have thought this filter was fine for that ?? besides max flow rates are quoted without any media. from the tech reviews i've read, once you pack it full of matrix the lph drops down significantly. cant you adjust the flow rate aswell ?

[cpfc]

That tank will give you some good choices. Go the filtration. I wish I had that option. Look up the manuals on the manufacturers website to see what it can do. There are also ways to baffle the current using direction, spray bars etc. Spray bars also add to aeration. I do not have the experience to know how to baffle 3500lph and am looking forward to your setup results.

the tank i've decided on is a 430L tank, (as opposed to the tank in the OP). i would have thought this filter was fine for that ?? besides max flow rates are quoted without any media. from the tech reviews i've read, once you pack it full of matrix the lph drops down significantly. cant you adjust the flow rate aswell ?

[Chris.K]

That tank will give you some good choices. Go the filtration. I wish I had that option. Look up the manuals on the manufacturers website to see what it can do. There are also ways to baffle the current using direction, spray bars etc. Spray bars also add to aeration. I do not have the experience to know how to baffle 3500lph and am looking forward to your setup results.

the 2080 is 1700lph max, the fx5 has the masive 3500lph output. theres a great comparison of the 2 here:

http://www.discusforums.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7080. here is a quote from it:

The Fluval showed a flowrate of 1991 litres per hour when full of media and connected which is about 57% of its rated pump capacity of 3500 l/ph but the Eheim did even better giving 1207 litres per hour out of its possible 1700 l/ph for an amazing 71% !

anyway...after much reading and research and some quality time with some very experienced aquarium lovers/ experts, i've decided on a totally different setup which is more expensive but will give me the results and look i'm after. i was paying far too much attention to specs and confusing the hell outta myself.

5ftx18x24 tank with starfire glass

eheim 2260 plumbed into bottom of tank so i dont have any tubes running behind the tank from the filter.

i saw this exact setup today and it works a damn treat and looks very special. having a canister filter running from underneath is a revelation for me cos i never even thought of it. i think i would have preferred the 2080 cos its newer but you cant plumb these square style filters from under the tank cos the water pressure bends em over time and the clips and seals start to pop. roundies dont have this problem due to their structual integrity. you would have thought with an engineering background i could of worked that out for myself.

[Link2Hell]

what a diffference it makes to be able to see the setup, especially working

sounds like you have found exactly what you want

would be good if you could post some pics of the working setup or your own

when it goes in

Chris

[fongyfong]

Wont be a overkill no such thing as too much filtration, only thing id be worried about for a tank his size the fx5 will turn his tank into a tank into a tusnami and water will be moving everywher, if you want 3500 lPH turnover get two 1500 litre canisters

the tank i've decided on is a 430L tank, (as opposed to the tank in the OP). i would have thought this filter was fine for that ?? besides max flow rates are quoted without any media. from the tech reviews i've read, once you pack it full of matrix the lph drops down significantly. cant you adjust the flow rate aswell ?

Yep id say the FX5 should be alright for a 430 L tank and shouldnt make your tank into a tsunami, i dont think you can adjust the flow for the FX5