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Ctenochromis horii Not eating (Sick)


aymenz

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Hi Guys,

I have this sub dominant male, was in another tank which had very bad water quality,,, brought the colony home, 2 small females died as they were constantly swimming at the top gasping heavily and not eating...

This sub dominant male was fine the first 2 days and now showing the same symptoms as the females, moved it to a 2 foot quarantined tank with some Crimson Tides Fry, added some Melafix to the tank and will be doing a water change once I get back home.

Is there anything else to be done and what might have caused this to happen?

Any help is much appreciated...

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After extensive research on the web, I found that what my fish currently have is "Malawi Bloat" I know what to do now.

But my new question is, I only have the 2 footer which currently houses the Crimson tides and Blues babies, they are all free swimmers. would I be able to quarantine the fish in the same tank or would the Flagyl be too strong for them?

Please assist if you have any experience or any infos regarding this issue.

Cheers

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I wouldn't be putting flagyl in with fish that don't need it. As there is potential for it to cause damage to internal organs.

Flagyl 'can' damage or kill bio filtration. And I wouldn't want to expose fry to ammonia either.

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To me flagyl doesnt work, better off trying clout that has worked for me

but usually if they are in the final stage of bloat since they are dying

it is probably too late, were the poor water conditions caused by overfeeding

Overfeeding is one of the biggest causes of bloat.

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If you can find dimetro (DMZ) it works better. It is the ingredient in cloat that fights hexamita. Clout is a scatter gun approach and the antibiotic in it is good when trating Tropheus bloat. Plus it isn't a legal import into Aus last time I looked, maybe vets can prescribe it? DMZ is more water soluable, thats why it works better.

I have had success with flagyl. I dosed at 500mg per 100 L twice a day. Raised temp to 30. Treated for 5 days. I grind up the tablets with a mortar and pestle, add some tank water to really make a slurry. If the fish started taking food 3 days in I put some nls into the slurry to soak it up. And feed while treating. But now with the new info, I'd be using epsom salts as outlined above at this point.

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Thanks guys for the very helpful replies, it is indeed too late as I returned home today and found it laying dead....

Where can I get either the Clout or DMZ here in Sydney? i may need it for the rest...

The poor water condition was due to inconsistent water changes, moving gravel and rocks in and out of the tank, and stress...

I've taken these little fish as the person who was looking after them had enough of them, after a white spot outbreak which killed his Crimson Tides colony... and now those little fellas...

Thanks again...

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Thanks mattrox,don't think we have any around our area...

How about the Clout, where can I get this from?

as my other 2 females are now showing the symptoms, sticky white line, however they are still eating...

Please assistance guys...Thanks

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flagyl (metronadizole) will not kill your bio filter

DMZ (dimetronadizole) WILL! (unless you have very large commercial filtration)

i just to make a note of that because it is very important!

check link below:

http://tropheusfanatics.com.au/index.php?showtopic=385

both medication are effective in feed especially DMZ

Just have to becarefull with which ever path you take and monitor your tank closely.

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You don't think there are any pigeon clubs around Merrylands?

Have you ever looked up between 4 and 8pm?

You're living near enough to Little Malta to be literally spoilt for choice...

You could start with Merrlands Pigeon Society, or Smithfield Pigeon Club, Regents Park Pigeon Club, St Mary's pigeon Club, Marayong / Quakers Hill Pigeon Club, Punchbowl/Bankstown Pigeon Club......

Or I'm sure these guys could get you the details for any or all of them: http://www.westernsydneyracepigeons.com/

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I did use DMZ once As it was kindly supplied to me week.instructions. Unfortunately I don't have the instructions anymore. It finished off a stubborn case of bloat. Ammonia showed up post treatment but was all gone within a week.

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Thx guys for all the help provided, I will be going to my GP today to get some Falgyl and start the medication, will be trying the 2 methods...

Soaking the flakes in the mixture as they are still slightly eating.. and dosing the 2 footer...

Now my Electric Yellow will also be added to the list, as it is not eating at all and always hiding behind the filter...

Also to note, the 2 horii femlaes have thin white faeces dangling but still eating, does this mean it is still in the early stage?

The yellow female doesn't have anything dangling as yet.

TIA

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Hi guys,

I have read an article about yhe benefits and cons of Epsom salt and is effectiveness, so I went and grabbed myself 3 packs from the chemist and dosed both the 4 footer and the quarantined tank housing horiis.

My question is do I need to take out the carbon from the 2 footer and switch off the bio-chemical filtration?

Am I really in need ro know this last thing.

TIA

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Have you started treating with metro? If you haven't started any treatment yet, you are letting the disease really set in.

If some of your fish aren't eating, get them eating with metro treatment. Then use the magneisum sulfate.You are going to lose fish if you don't start treating asap.

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I have set up the quarantined tank and will be treating with Flagyl tonight, will be dosing the tank as well as soaking some flakes and pellets with the treatement....

Hope this is enough to save them...

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