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Sump question - what parts required


bristlenose2008
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Hi Guys,

I want to get a sump made or build one myself. It will be a small one 18" cube. So about 45cm cube on the metric system. It will be attached to a 3ft tank that is 2ft high and 2ft wide.

What I want people to take into consideration is this. I am not skimming the tanks surface. The inlet and outlet holes are cut in the bottom of my tank. This is important to note as I will most likely need some sort of safety valve.

So can someone list me the parts I need. Does any one have a drawing or a photo of this type of setup? Photo of the parts.

In the event of a power outage if this system is not done right it can drain the tank 100%. So what sort of safety valve, and what will regulate how fast the water comes down the outlet?

Thanks guys,

Damien

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Is there any reason why you arent using a stand pipe/weir setup? I am guessing that the tank has holes drilled in the base of the tank.

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mate i hope this helps you drawed it up 2 nights ago this should be just fine for you as sump goes!

IPB Image

as for your piping i saw another members set up he has an upright pipe with an other one taller over it which was wider of cause and down the bottom had slits in it so water can only enter from there!"i have to say it was top invention in my books 10 points :thumbup: "

Edited by Foti
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i would like others oppinon on this aswell

first stage water trickles through swing arm onto bio balls

above water level

then on to thick sponge

then thin

through media as final stage

all of which would be under water

then pumped out !

i would say this would be the easyest sump !

but not the best!

if you look carfully the bio balls are on a cage with legs!

so the water trickles down

pump size is to your disgrestion

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Hi Guys,

lets focus on my original question. It is not the sump that I need help designing. I know how the chambers will be and where the bio balls will sit. That is not my issue I am needing resolved.

This is what my issue is:

My Tank has 2 holes in the bottom of the tank. Not in the corners but closer to the center spaced about 30cm's apart.

I am not not using a simple overflow/skimming design in the main tank. The sump is to be directly connected via the bottom two holes.

There are some sort of safety valves user which allow only one way flow. I need to know the plumbing method that I can use.

I think this is one of the parts:

http://www.fosterandsmithaquatics.com/prod...amp;pcatid=4076

but this is not the part that would stop the sump flooding the house.

I will surely need one ball valve like this

http://www.fosterandsmithaquatics.com/prod...amp;pcatid=8016

but this is also not the part that would stop the sump flooding the house.

I am also hoping to find clear bulk head and other parts.

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so you dont want any stand pipes in the tank? as in pipe from bulkhead in the tank? this will control the water level in the tank and not cause the tank to drain.

this would be the most common method of controlling the water level....

do you mean for aesthetic purposes you dont want any pipes in the tank?

if not, it would mean you have two holes in the bottom of the tank? i assume there is no weir either by the sounds of it? substrate?

if this is the case the only solution i can think of is to have external piping behind the tank regulate the water level.

if i have understood you properly, i dont think there will be a "valve" to suit your purpose, it would need to be an auto valve of some sort the switches off once it detects power failure, then theres the question of regulating flow.....

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I don't know if you can get a clear bulkhead, I have never seen one, but maybe there is a specialty supplier out there.

I also dont know what sort of valve you would use that would automatically cut the flow if power went out/pump stopped working. A solenoid would work if the power went off, but if the pump just stopped pumping for some reason, eg seized impeller, then the water would just drain out and you couldn't stop it.

You could run the pipes out of the bottom of the tank and then bend them up the back of the tank. This would mean the water would still have to overflow but it would be doing it externally, if that makes sense. I have drawn a diagram have a look and see if it makes sense to you.

I dont even know if this idea would work, but if it will it will mean that you dont need to use solenoids and the water will stop flowing if the pump stops for any reason.

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Josh

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Josh i trust your work

but wont the down ward presher of the out let continue the force and carry the water out i am sure it will if you want a clean look go a glass corner overflow then all you need to do is clean it every so often

i guess it would work if the pipe goes ontop? and a valve at the point before sup to turn off water flow this will even help when you need to re start the flow just turn the valve and the suction continues ?

Edited by Foti
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The drawing that Josh has done, is of a customised, self priming Durso stand pipe and it would work the same way as any durso stand pipes used in glass weirs. The hardest thing to get right is the size of the hole drilled in the top. If it is too big, it flushes like toilet, too small it could overflow. There is fine line between letting too much air out and not enough. Once you have that right it works like a bought one. Depending on the size of the pump, this hole could be as small as 1mm.

Foti a spell checker is your friend. Some of your posts are cryptic :) .

cheers

rosco

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so you dont want any stand pipes in the tank? as in pipe from bulkhead in the tank? this will control the water level in the tank and not cause the tank to drain.

this would be the most common method of controlling the water level....

do you mean for aesthetic purposes you dont want any pipes in the tank?

if not, it would mean you have two holes in the bottom of the tank? i assume there is no weir either by the sounds of it? substrate?

if this is the case the only solution i can think of is to have external piping behind the tank regulate the water level.

if i have understood you properly, i dont think there will be a "valve" to suit your purpose, it would need to be an auto valve of some sort the switches off once it detects power failure, then theres the question of regulating flow.....

Momo,

spot on , you got my point. No Stand pipes, no weir.

Now to add to the issue, the tank is a centerpiece. Plumbing can not be visible from any angle. It all must be below the tank in the cabinet.

The good thing is this. Apparently ST George Aquariums has the answer. They have a tank on display apparently that has only holes in the bottom. So both in and out flow is from the bottom of the tank.

I am going to have to see this for myself.

Keep up with the posting in the mean time.

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............and I finally got my answer.

Not happy thou.........................

For the holes I have cut in my tank, I must use a pressurised system. So a good quality canister type filter.

Fluval FX 5 or Eheim of some description.

:(

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The FX5 set-up isn't to bad of an idea if it is for a show piece. The filtration will be much quieter then the sump set-up.

I don't know if the 18inch cube would be adequate for filtering that size tank either. It really doesnt allow for much media unless you use an external pump and a heater is also going to be a tight fit.

Josh

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I don't know if you can get a clear bulkhead, I have never seen one, but maybe there is a specialty supplier out there.

Yep you can get clear bulkheads.

http://www.aquasonic.com.au/catalogue/database.php?cat=204

okay so Aquasonic is the distributor, but the issue is that not everyone that has an account with them is willing to take my smallish order. Who actually stocks thesee????

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