tropifish Posted July 18, 2009 Share Posted July 18, 2009 I have a 4ft Jewel tank with about 20 african cichlids in there, the tank has been up and running for about 5 months now, and all fishes have been very healthy. Just that I cannot get the water to crystal clear, there's always fine dust which visible if you carefully look at it. Apart from the in built internal filter, I added another internal ReSun filter on the other end of the tank, PH level is at 7.6, ammonia is 0, temp is around 26. I never used any water condition as i pre-stock water before every change. What can I do now to achieve crystal clear water? I was thinking getting a sponge filter to try....but just want to hear from you experts out there before go and spend on extra tools... Thanks in advance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phenomena Posted July 19, 2009 Share Posted July 19, 2009 Not sure how big your existing filters are, how big the cichlids are, and your feeding regime. The tank may well be under filtered. Sponge filter won't help much to clear floating fine dust/debris as it isn't so much mechanical. Depending on your budget, I'd be getting the largest possible cannister or hang on the back (I don't like seeing equipment in a display tank). HTH. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evo Posted July 19, 2009 Share Posted July 19, 2009 Using quality filter media designed for removing small particles can help. Cannot remember the exact media that does it. But if you have already a good filter you can get a UV Sterliser... They make the water crystal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oz_gooner Posted July 19, 2009 Share Posted July 19, 2009 Correct me if I'm wrong but it's my understanding that UV will only kill bacteria not remove particles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emp1re Posted July 19, 2009 Share Posted July 19, 2009 get a diatom filter , like the vortex . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tropifish Posted July 19, 2009 Author Share Posted July 19, 2009 Thanks guys !!! there's no places to fit in canister filter, so that option is out of the way. Though I wouldn't think the tank is under filtered, as i'm running 2 at the same time. Fishes aren't really big in size, the biggest is texas, he's about 15cm. I feed them twice a day on various foods. Will do some research on diatom filter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evo Posted July 19, 2009 Share Posted July 19, 2009 UV will kill the bacteria that can cause water clarity issues. Although it might not be the answer for you. It is always a possibility. Do you have any idea of what these particles are. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sluggo Posted July 19, 2009 Share Posted July 19, 2009 Hi, You have 20 fish in a 4' tank being fed twice a day. Most importantly I'd suggest that you cut feeding down to no more than once a day and don't overfeed. Make sure that you do regular water changes, around 20% per week. Use a fine foam in your internal filter and clean it at each water change so that it's main job IS mechanical, not biological. Stick to the simple solutions and you should see clearer water. Cheers, Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CThompson Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 I never used any water condition as i pre-stock water before every change. Not sure what that means I assume you mean you have a separate container where you pre-add salts and KH generator etc., before adding to tank? If that is the case I would suggest to you that this will not remove chloramines - only water conditioner can do this. Feeding twice a day or even three is fine provided there is not food laying around afterwards. You don't have to maintain the tank temp so high. I aim for 22. The higher the tank temp = faster metabolism = more food required = more waste. Feeding NLS can actually help here as more of the food is digested and the poop is less and what there is, is heavy and doesn't seem to particulate. UV will not fix the issue unless it is green water/algae you are seeing floating around. You don't mention how you have stacked your filtes. This may be relevant. Aquasonic sell a "blue polishing pad" which is just a filter wool, but really fine, finer than the white stuff we all use. I suggest you add some of this to one or both of your filters. Put it last, just before the biological media. Ring and ask before going to lfs as they may not stock it. I use it and I know it is available. Ring Majestic (ask for Paul Talbut) if you can't find it. Shops can get it in. You will find that this will most likely fix your issue. A diatom filter will get rid of the issue as well but I think a properly stacked filter which uses Aquasonic's blue polishing pad will do the job. It's reusable - just blast it out with the garden hose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rod54 Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 You can try bentonite clay....sold as Geoliquid also the basis for some kitty litter type products It is basically a flocculant.....fine clay particles bind to existing particles making it easier for them to be picked up by the filtration Water will initially go cloudy....but in 24 hours it will be crystal clear Also has other potential benefits.....used as a supplement in animal feed as it is supposed to clean out toxins. and also used in water treatment plants to polish water.... It's a natural product and makes sense to me given most fish will be subject to cloudy water in natural habitats after heavy rain.....perhaps not Rift lake cichlids...but!?!? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tropifish Posted July 20, 2009 Author Share Posted July 20, 2009 Might try the "blue polishing pad" as suggested by CThompson. I don't think there's any issues with over feeding, as I've feeding them blood worm (as a treat) twice a week, for the rest im rotating between Hikari cichlid gold floating pellets and flakes. I can say my cichlids are always hungry, so they finish whatever I put in the tank within 2, 3 mins. As for the filter, this is the order (from top to bottom): filter wool (white pad) active carbon sponge (black) nitrate removal sponge (green) filter sponge coarse (blue) filter sponge fine (blue) so if i get the blue polishing pad, i'll be replacing the the filter wool (white pad), or the filter sponge fine (blue) that i currently have? Thanks heaps guys !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fullychichlid Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 Feed a good quality food like NLS. Dont over feed. When I started keeping fishIhad the same problem. Problemfixed when i reduced food. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CThompson Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 Might try the "blue polishing pad" as suggested by CThompson. I don't think there's any issues with over feeding, as I've feeding them blood worm (as a treat) twice a week, for the rest im rotating between Hikari cichlid gold floating pellets and flakes. I can say my cichlids are always hungry, so they finish whatever I put in the tank within 2, 3 mins. As for the filter, this is the order (from top to bottom): filter wool (white pad) active carbon sponge (black) nitrate removal sponge (green) filter sponge coarse (blue) filter sponge fine (blue) so if i get the blue polishing pad, i'll be replacing the the filter wool (white pad), or the filter sponge fine (blue) that i currently have? Thanks heaps guys !!! WATER IN filter sponge coarse (blue) filter wool (white pad) filter sponge fine (blue) active carbon sponge (black) nitrate removal sponge (green) WATER OUT Basically put mechanical media first, coarsest to finest, then chemical filtration then biological. I see you have no biological media. I see this as a more important inclusion than the activated carbon and the nitrate sponge. Nitrates are less toxic than ammonia and nitrite, and nitrates are exported with water changes anyway. You fish will suffer from ammonia/nitrite issues before they will for nitrate. I would give these two a miss and replace with a biological media and a finer mechanical media - having said that; if you already have three different types/grades of mechanical media and one is already "fine (blue)", the Aquasonic's blue polishing pad may or may not help, depending on how it relates to the fine media you are already using. Rod54 comment re flocculant is a good one. As is fullycichlid's regarding NLS for the reasons I have already given. Give blood worms a miss. I would also suggest, not having seen your tank, maybe you are focusing too much on this "issue" and maybe it is not worth the effort? Try reorganising your filter media as suggested, and see what if any impact it has and get back to us. This won't cost anything. I'd also repeat the suggestion of using NLS exclusively - you might be surprised at the difference. Craig Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evo Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 NLS FTW! anyway yeah as stated above the filtration layers could be a problem.. Really depends how bad the particles are. Polishing pad seems like a good idea. I might get one for my tank. any sites sell them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AzFish Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 I have used 100% polyester felt from spotlight, works a treat at polishing the water. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tropifish Posted July 21, 2009 Author Share Posted July 21, 2009 Might try the "blue polishing pad" as suggested by CThompson. I don't think there's any issues with over feeding, as I've feeding them blood worm (as a treat) twice a week, for the rest im rotating between Hikari cichlid gold floating pellets and flakes. I can say my cichlids are always hungry, so they finish whatever I put in the tank within 2, 3 mins. As for the filter, this is the order (from top to bottom): filter wool (white pad) active carbon sponge (black) nitrate removal sponge (green) filter sponge coarse (blue) filter sponge fine (blue) so if i get the blue polishing pad, i'll be replacing the the filter wool (white pad), or the filter sponge fine (blue) that i currently have? Thanks heaps guys !!! WATER IN filter sponge coarse (blue) filter wool (white pad) filter sponge fine (blue) active carbon sponge (black) nitrate removal sponge (green) WATER OUT Basically put mechanical media first, coarsest to finest, then chemical filtration then biological. I see you have no biological media. I see this as a more important inclusion than the activated carbon and the nitrate sponge. Nitrates are less toxic than ammonia and nitrite, and nitrates are exported with water changes anyway. You fish will suffer from ammonia/nitrite issues before they will for nitrate. I would give these two a miss and replace with a biological media and a finer mechanical media - having said that; if you already have three different types/grades of mechanical media and one is already "fine (blue)", the Aquasonic's blue polishing pad may or may not help, depending on how it relates to the fine media you are already using. Rod54 comment re flocculant is a good one. As is fullycichlid's regarding NLS for the reasons I have already given. Give blood worms a miss. I would also suggest, not having seen your tank, maybe you are focusing too much on this "issue" and maybe it is not worth the effort? Try reorganising your filter media as suggested, and see what if any impact it has and get back to us. This won't cost anything. I'd also repeat the suggestion of using NLS exclusively - you might be surprised at the difference. Craig Thanks Craig, Will try reorganising the filter media as you suggested and see how it goes - and will get some NLS as well. Cheers, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evo Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 I have used 100% polyester felt from spotlight, works a treat at polishing the water. thanks i might have to get some of that.. Anything i should do to it beforehand Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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