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Tropheus ikola Caring


anthO

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Hi people,

I am thinking of buying some tropheus ikola kaiser and i was wondering what are there requirements such as ph, temp etc.

Also i no that they are herbivores but what food do i specificly feed them and how many times a day...

any other important information that i must know is appreciated.

Anthony :)

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Hi Anthony,

Whilst I don't keep this particular Tropheus variant, I have recently gone through the process of setting a Tropheus moorii Ilangi tank. I had a lot of beginner questions that were answered in this thread:

LINK

Another site which I found particularly useful was Steve's Tropheus (LINK), there is a loads of information here to get you started.

As for food, I am feeding mine NLS Grow and Cichlid formulas primarly, and I throw some OSI Spirulina flake in every once in a while. I am doing this twice a day.

Is this your first attempt at keeping Tropheus?

Cheers

Jon

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Hi,

Great to see you are doing some research before delving into the world of tropheus!!! :thumb

There are many horror stories out there about disasters where the entire colony is wiped out by the dreaded bloat but to be honest they are not as difficult as some make them out to be provided you follow some simple rules which i think applies to all tanganyikans in general:

- get a decent size tank, as big as u can afford to keep - minimum size being a standard 4 foot.

- decide on a good number to keep which again depends on the size of the tank. For a standard 4 foot i would go 8-12, 4 by 2 by 2 20-30 and 6 by 2 by 2 - 30-50.

- they are a socially dynamic species of fish and develop a pecking order or hierarchy which will result in some inevitable aggression (if u r unlucky u may get an individual that may have ADHD and no matter what u do apart from adding some ritalin to the tank water, he/she will not change!) so u need adequate numbers to spread out the aggression, to make them feel safe to venture out of hiding places, and to allow for losses or removal of unwanted males.

- overfiltration is the key - keep nitrates to a minimum (0 ppm is ideal) - filter entire tank volume at least 8-10 times per hour.

- religious weekly or biweekly 50% water changes is ideal.

- keep water parameter constant - it doesn't really matter what parameters u use as long as u keep it constant or if u decide to change anything, to change it gradually. This goes along with the question to buffer or salt or not - it works either way. I keep my pH 8.5-9. Kh 18-20. Gh 10-12. temperature 26-28C.

- better to feed them sparingly then to overfeed. If u decide to change the type of food, do it slowly. I have used all brands of spirulina flake in the past with no problems but after using NLS pellets i have been impressed with the results and have not looked back! ;)

- it is easier to start a colony of juveniles 3-4cm than an adult colony.

- tank decor - u can use bare bottom, beach/pool sand, coral sand or lime sand, whatever u like. I would recommend separate rockpiles as high as u can safely stack them!

Feel free to ask any more specific questions!

By the way, what size tank are u placing them in and how many are u getting? Are u going to add any tankmates?

hth

Dave

i haven't used those types of flake foods for my Ts but i would recommend u use some more traditional flake foods like OSI spirulina or HBH veggie flakes if u insist on using flake foods. But if u want something even better try NLS pellets, u won't regret it!! :thumbup: I am sure it is available in Melbourne, if not pm Waz or Waruna!!

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thanks alot!

I am planning to get about 10 -15 in a standard 5 foot tank that has sort of like pebbles with many rocks also i do not have a light..should i get one for the green algae to grow also im planning to have no tank mates so its just the tropheus ikola...and becuase im kinda new to all this could u please be specific when sayin food..i dont not understand

Anthony

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Hi Anthony,

standard 5 foot tank is a good size tank for tropheus. If u r keeping only tropheus i would get more than 15 if money isn't an issue. I would be looking at 20-30 fish for that size tank but it is not essential. I find if u are getting juveniles such a large tank will make 10-15 fish quite nervous and they may not venture out.

If u are asking me about food i would fully recommend NLS pellets either Cichlid formula or Thera A will do and feed only twice daily - maybe 3-4 pinch fulls depending on how quickly they can consume it.

If u don't like the idea of NLS then the next best thing is OSI spirulina or HBH 8 veggie flakes. Even Sera Flora is ok.

As i said before, a hungry tropheus never dies!

hth

Dave

Ps...with the light issue, i think u definitely need a well lit aquarium to actually enhance the colours of the tropheus and also allow algae growth. They will continually graze on algae while not being fed so it is a good idea to have lighting.

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Anthony,

I have my Troheus in a 4x1.5x2(h) and have 25 happy little buggers swimming around. I've probably got a few more than I should / need, but if the filtration is up to the task (which it has been so far) then I can't see it being a problem. So far there have only been a few that seem to be scared to come out when I approach the tank, most go crazy at the prospect of getting some food!

As Dave said to you, and to me when I was asking these questions, get as many as you can afford to start with...

To start the cogs turning on how to setup your tank, here's how mine is currently:

IPB Image

(sorry, I love to show it off :p)

Edit: I gotta start proof reading these before posting! :B

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As was reccommended to me, I would say that get the species that you really want to start with, particularly if you are only wanting to keep one type. The basics on keeping them are all the same, but for a beginner they normally reccommend to steer clear of black sp. (eg. Ikola) or bricardi due to higher aggression levels.

I don't want to talk you out of duboisi as they are a beautiful fish, I had a real tough decision between duboisi Maswa, moorii Ilangi and Moliro etc and unfortunately getting them all wasn't an option. If you want something specific then save up the money and go for them.

This page will give you an idea of all the variants available (LINK), pick the ones you think you might like to keep and then compare that to what's available down under.

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Yeh im not to fond of the duboisi but the ikolas seem to be quite a bit of money.

Due to me being so impatient ;) i am planning to buy the duboisi unless i can find a ilangi for sale in melbourne.

Also have any tips for me before diving into tropheus. I have a standard 5 foot tank on a stand with no light though :shock: so i dont no how i am goin to put a light on top for them any ideas????

and would they survive without a light?

Cheers Anthony

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Anthony....since u have used a pic of an ikola as your avatar why not go for them! :thumb I know deep inside u really want them and they are one of the most attractive Ts. One advantage of them over other Ts is they always display great coloration if u have good water. With other "moorii", colour is more mood dependent and usually only the dominant males display the best colours. 20 or more of them in a large tank would look awesome.

Your cheapest option is to get someone to ship them to u....just be willing to pay for the costs of bagging, packing and shipping and pay them upfront even before u receive the fish.....i know it is a bit risky but if u really want them then u must do it this way.

Sorry for making the decision more difficult for u mate.

I really missed my ikolas, they were an awesome fish....although aggressive like all Ts can be, i think they were not too bad....i didn't have any deaths due to aggression. Just make sure u have enough of them and u will be ok.

i don't understand why u can't get a light for them? Just get a aquaone 4 foot light, they are not that expensive.....or even get one of the aqualina from AOA, i have one and they are pretty well made. U won't enjoy them without having good lighting.

don't tell me u don't have any lids on your tank? Ts are notorious jumpers so whatever u make sure the tank is well covered.

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Now the decision is alot harder i dont know what im gonna do the ikolas look so good :dntknw:

I do have lids on my tank, and my tank is only on a stand so i dont know how im going to put a light on

Also if i do get my tropheus shipped from sydney( thats the only place i can find any :blink ) would any of them be dead on arrival.

And because i wouldnt mind getting some fry out of them.... do i let the female stay in the colony tank and let her spit them out or do i strip her and put the fry in a seperate tank.....

And last question....for now :8 what size are the fry when u strip her or when she spits them???????

Anthony

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Go for what you really want! Clearly Ikola is the winner...

Just grab a single or double flouro light and sit it on top of the tank, it will be supported by the centre brace of the tank (mostly). You will be able to enjoy the fish in their full glory and also help grow a healty green algae for them to pick on through the day.

With shipping there is always a change that some might not make the trip, but if packed and treated properly you shouldn't have any problems with DOA fish. People ship fish all the time, that's how they came over here in the first place ;)

You should be able to find Tropheus locally, though your chosen species might be hard to come across. I know you guys are a little backwards down there but I there are people who keep them.

I'll let someone else answer the breeding questions, mine are still small and cute. They haven't learnt about the birds and the bees yet :lol2:

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I have kept quiet till now as others were doing admirably well in their responses :) I have been keeping T's for many years and it pleases me that many are enjoying them at the present time.

If you do not like duboisi as per you comment then please do not get them. Nothing saddens me more than seeing colonies of these beauties put up for sale a few weeks after purchase because they were not what the buyer really wanted.

Save your pennies for what you really like and ask the questions you are already asking to see if these suit your ability to care for them. You have already been advised that the Tropheus sp. black are the most aggressive so be prepared for this.

As for the breeding this is long term - your T's will start from between 12 months - 18 months but will only reach full speed at around 3-5 years old. These are fish that do not benefit from female removal as it can be very difficult to reintroduce her back into the colony - although it can be done.

I allow my females to spit into the tank with some variants and others I strip when the time is right. You will have mouthfuls of approx 3-6 at the start and this may increase gradually over time. The maximum yield that I have seen comes from my 7yo's of 15-20 fry per mouthful.

Freight will cost approximately $80 and if shipped correctly - fish indivually bagged etc there should be no fatalities. Fry travel better in most instances than adults.

I breed KII's Kiriza - Ikolas are KI's both are Kaiser's and I will repeat - can be cranky <_<

Make the right decision for you and the fish may have a home forever.

HTH

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YES!!! I think i will get the tropheus ikola :clap

I think they are one of the best looking fish ive seen and i will save a bit more money and then buy them but i cant seem to find anyone having them for sale

And in a standard 5 foot tank i am planning to get around 13 ikolas for it and they will be the only fish in the tank is this enough?

Thank you

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My instinct says to probably aim for a few more, so long as your filtration can cope with a larger bio-load having more fish will help reduce aggression. You have plenty of tank space, 15-20 would probably a better number to aim for IMHO, though as I said earlier I haven't kept anything but Ilangi.

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I've got a colony of 25 to allow for some unexpected deaths or remove super aggressive fish, with an original target of 20. But after having them I don't think I'll worry too much so long as the aggression levels stay OK and no particular fish is being harassed.

The problem with removing fish from the colony is that people are often worried about adding new fish to an established colony and upsetting the hierarchy, so selling can be difficult. There can also be problems in the colony where the fish are removed from, as Dave can attest to after removing excess males from one of his tanks.

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