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New Rack


youngy_11

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hi,

I have just got my underhouse rack setup that has been planned for 1.5 years. laugh.gif

It has a standard 4 fter, four 2ftx18widex 14 high and a standard 3fter for the sump.

The water is pumped from the sump to the 4fter then gravity feed to the other 4-2fters and then gravity fed back to the sump through weirs and a piece of pipe.

The stand is made out of 50x50 steel and is as solid as a rock. I sprayed it with galmat to finish it off.

I have a syphon running from the 4 fter to the first 2 fter because the pump is to powerfull or the system so this corrects it. Also the BN will love the amount of flow from a 20mm gravity fed syphon.

The 4fter sump and 3 of the 2fters.

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The sump, I made it all my self with a standard 3fter lengths of glass, a few pieces of 10mm perspex and a basket that i brought from bunnings to hold the media. The drip tray that i made from a piece of the 10mm perspex is working well but is splashing some water up so i have got the lids on there for now but will make a better lid soon to stop the water splashingFrom the bottom to the top i have. So JAP matting from AOA, a bag of Matrix another bag of Ceramic Noodles, Bio Balls, Plastic Scoures from GO-LO some Polester Wool and a piece of 50mm sponge from AOA as well. Also 2 300watt heaters for winter and a 3900l/h pump also from AOA.

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The return pipe:

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The gravity fed pipe with taps for regulation of flow:

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Another view

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Showing Syphon

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My first 2 fish a pair of White Convicts. If they die i think ill give it away. LOL.gif

I think they have already layed eggs hahaha.

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Thanks ryan

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Looks good thumb.gif

Is there a fix planned to save you relying on a syphon? I don't think I'd be happy with that long-term no.gif

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Yea i don't know yet. But i will put up with it and if not i will either tap the pump off a bit or buy a less powerful sump

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What if you allowed more water into each of the 4 tanks? Are the taps opened right up? Could you use bigger pipe into each tank than you already have?

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Actually in the pic it looks like the tap into the first tank is closed, and the one into the 2nd tank is only half open. Is that right?

If you have all the taps open fully does that solve the problem?

If you have a blackout and that syphon breaks you'll get water everywhere i think dntknw.gif

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Yes the first tap is closed so i don't get so much flow into the first tank. Now the hole cut in the 4 fter is the problem is doesn't allow enough water to travel through. If the power goes off the pump will stop and siphon water from the pipe in the 4fter to the pump in the sump to it breaks. The syphon from the 4fter to the 2fter will syphon till it breaks and then all the wiers will distribute water back to the sump till the water level is below the wiers. No water will go every where unless the sump overflows but it won't if i have the water level low enough

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Ummmm.... it looks like the drain from the large tank feeds the smaller tanks, and is cut down to 4 very small outlets. If this is the case why not simply have the pump go to directly to all 5 tanks and the drains only come back to the sump? Especially if your pump is overpowered for your current setup, this seems to be the obvious solution - simply requires the main tank drain going direct to the sump and the water from the pump being split between your main tank and the row of taps you already have (water splitting under pressure works a hell of a lot better, and the he taps you already have are much more designed for water output rather than drainage.)

Personnally I would only restrict the drainage as you are currently doing if:

a) you used bigger piping

b) you had more of a drop from the top tank to the bank of tanks

c) you had some form of unrestricted "overflow" to the sump in case something stuffs up with the taps.

HTH

Pacco

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Yea thanks. If ya want to come around and have a look your a definatly welcome.

I will do some research but exactly how do the over flow boxes work??

thanks ryan

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forget overflow boxes, just get it drilled (if it isn't already, what's in the top right hand corner of that bigger tank?)

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Well ive spent $200 on plumbing so im keeping the four gravity fed valves. But what if I get a T piece for the pipe from the Pump, so one pipe is going to the 4fter and one to the first 2 fter. Or even tapped into the plubing with the four valves. I would take the tap off the pipe from the pump and re attach it to the pipe that is split and goin to the 4fter to regulate flow.

Suggestions??

thanks ryan

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The whole point to my suggestion is that it would require the least work and expense (you will keep the 4 taps as output fittings - which is really what they are designed to be.)

Personally I wouldn't go with either of Corys suggestions (no offense Cory) but they are adding to the cost and complexity without really addressing the problems you are having.

Simply put:

1) Disconnect the 4 tap outlet pipe from the drain on the 4 foot tank.

2) Put a tap and T on the pump outlet hose and join it to the 4 tap outlet pipe, so the water will be spread between the 5 tanks direct from the sump.

3) Install a simple drainage pipe from the 4' to the sump. (The drainage on the 4x2' tanks is fine.)

Very easy, and shouldn't cost more than ~$10-20 to do, but it will make your setup a hell of a lot better.

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Yep Pacco's design still uses all your plumbing gear and is the best solution in my opinion.

It also allows you to isolate any of the tanks in the system should you need to (just close the tap)

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If i go with corys first design the water flow from the return pipe with me the same, which is better because i have set up a drip tray to accomodate the flow.

Yes, power did go off today............................................................................................................................................................................

Water everywhere but luckily its got a drain in the corner.

ryan

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which is better because i have set up a drip tray to accomodate the flow.

It doesn't matter which tanks the water goes to or what way you have the pipes set up, the flow through the sump is going to be the same (once running) - the flow rate of the pump at the head pressure it is operating at.

As far as the one you are now considering, the drain hole in your 4' tank is too small for the pump that you have IMO (looks like 25mm fittings) so you need to be reducing the amount of water going to the 4', rather than trying to have the entire output of your pump going through it. Also, I am very wary of pumping pressurised water into your drainage pipe, as this possibly (I have never tried or have any real intention of trying it) may back up your drainage and cause the 4' to overflow. You need to have at least two seperate drain lines for that pump with those sized pipes IMO - trying to run the full water flow through one 25mm drain is a problem waiting to happen.

I have already shown you what is the best, cheapest and easiest solution (also try to make the water outlets a little above the water level in the tanks so the pump doesn't back siphon). It's up to you what you decide to do.

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Yea, the drain hole in the 4fter is 25mm and the pipe with the valves is 32mm with 20mm taps.

I understand that i need some water from the pump to bypass the 4fter hole doesn't allow enough through.

I realise that the flow back to the sump will be the same but i have a drip tray set up on an angle to spread the water coming out of the return pipe, and if i ad the vertical pipe from the 4fter it will alter this set up, thats why im trying to keep all the return water coming from the return pipe, thats all

thanks ryan

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Re-working your sump will be better than getting water everywhere for the rest of your life tongue.gif

Why not use a few elbows on the new return to have it dumping right next to the existing one?

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