Converted from Marine to Fresh Water

[Fisheggs]

Hi All!

I've converted my marine tank into fresh water and decided to journey into the world of Cichlids!

Most of the equipment used for my marine tank is being re-used in my converted tank.

However, there's a protein skimmer that's left which I've researched into and found out that it's quite useless in fresh water - which I understand, but are there any slight benefits at all using it in a cichlid tank? - since I'm in possession of one already, why not utilise it right?

Another question is, my coral rocks / live rocks, that are dead now (they've been bathing in the sun and have now turned pure white), can they be used to buffer the pH?

I have a 450 litre tank, and planning to keep peacock cichlids.

Also, I'm experiencing a dilemma where my kH level is 8 dkH and I want to have this parameter above 10, but my pH level is already at 8.2.

I've read that the only way to increase kH is to directly buffer the pH, and I wasn't sure if I should increase pH levels further.

Any tips and assistance will be appreciated greatly!

Thanks all.

[Jethr0]

I know when i tried to run my skimmer in fresh water it didnt work... just because i couldnt calibrate it right so that it would produce a decent foam and put skimmate into the cup. You may have more success.

I can't see why it wouldnt work in freshwater though.. its using the negative charge of the oxygen molecules to bind to the positively charged organic matter..

Your live rock will be fine to use and should be predominantly calcium carbonate.
If however your tank was a little neglected towards the end it could have a bit of phosphate absorbed into the rock which would encourage algae growth.

[mjoconr]

Your rocks should be good with helping to buffer the water as they will have calcium in them.

8dkh is high enough for most of the population of Cichlids in Australia, the only issue is wild caught and maybe F1 (first generation).

On my tank I use 'Start Right African Cichlid Salt' from Tech Den and a Carbonate Hardness powder. The first one also removes Chlorine and lime from town water. The carbonate is used to add the extra needed over the standard added by the first.

My water has almost no KH or GH so I need these.

Cheers

[Buccal]

Hi All!

I've converted my marine tank into fresh water and decided to journey into the world of Cichlids!

Most of the equipment used for my marine tank is being re-used in my converted tank.

However, there's a protein skimmer that's left which I've researched into and found out that it's quite useless in fresh water - which I understand, but are there any slight benefits at all using it in a cichlid tank? - since I'm in possession of one already, why not utilise it right?

Another question is, my coral rocks / live rocks, that are dead now (they've been bathing in the sun and have now turned pure white), can they be used to buffer the pH?

I have a 450 litre tank, and planning to keep peacock cichlids.

Also, I'm experiencing a dilemma where my kH level is 8 dkH and I want to have this parameter above 10, but my pH level is already at 8.2.

I've read that the only way to increase kH is to directly buffer the pH, and I wasn't sure if I should increase pH levels further.

Any tips and assistance will be appreciated greatly!

Thanks all.

You may be a little confused,,,, it is the KH you adjust (using buffers), which in turn stabilizes and to various degrees raises your PH.

If you used buffers to bring KH up to 13, then your PH will automatically raise (in most situations), to roughly 8.4-8.6,, which is perfect.

As said already dead coral is calcium carbonate and only raises KH very slightly and pending.

The way it raises KH is that the coral being the substance that's needed actually dissolves and adjusts the water.

Buuuuut,,, the further towards neutral or acid the water,,, the better it will break down the coral and release calcium carbonate.

But seeming your KH is already at a reasonable level, it will only break down slowly as the water is already partially saturated.

By all means put coral in if you like the look off,, a slight added benefit to raise KH as said,,,, but do it accurately and use buffers to get it exact straight away and be constantly stable in terms of not waiting weeks months for coral to dissolve for slight effects.

Add buffer to water till desired levels are reached.

Then calculate how much buffer needs adding for new water going in of a water change.

Hope you received perspective.

[Fisheggs]

Appreciate all the replies so far!

For now, I'll definitely add those rocks, at least it'll naturally assist me with water parameters whilst I calibrate it with the buffers to achieve the desired parameters.

Perhaps I was too pedantic about trying to mirror their natural habitat and was worried that 8.4-8.6 pH might adversely affect the fish.

Currently using 'Seachem Malawi Victoria Buffer' which has the required minerals for me to buffer my KH levels.

Also, there are no issues with adding this directly into the sump? I read somewhere that it's not recommended as it may damage the pump?

[Buccal]

Mine goes direct in front of pumps, calcium chloride and sodium bicarbonate,,, Usually get 2-4 years life from 4x 28,000 l/h pumps.

I think,,, but not entirely sure, that it's acid buffer used for discus and the likes of,,,, that effects pumps.

[Ged]

Welcome to ACE Forums and a great first topic.

The protein skimmer on a marine setup does the same job as the water changes that we undertake in a freshwater setup. The protein skimmer is able to produce a large volume of bubbles (increased surface area) in saltwater that facilitates the removal of waste. This volume of bubbles can't be produced in freshwater and as a result we rely on water changes.

Ged