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Mini Reef Advice


Adrian09

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Hi, I need some advice and tips on how to set up a system for 3 tanks. I plan to have 3 6foot tanks one above another all running a mini reef filter. Is this possible? how would i go about setting it up as i dont know the mechanics of a mini reef filter.

any advice would be appreciated

thanks

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G'day Adrian

Absolutely it is possible!

You can either drill your tanks or you can setup as the link below describes.

http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/diy_...ter_changes.php

Have a look around the articles and FAQ sections as well and then ask some more specific questions.

There is a great article written by Yew on an above the tank trickle filter. Also please build it yourself and save yourself some money, that way you get exactly what you want and know exactly how it works. Eg. I built a trickle filter out of a 20 litre bucket and a plastic storage box (from Clints I think laugh.gif ). Filter wool and plastic were added as media. The only real fishy component was a King 3 pump (See Age of Aquariums for a great price, link is below on the left). Even the pipes used were bought from a plumbing supplies shop!

The only other thing you may wish to consider is a UV steriliser. This will limit the spread of disease through your system of tanks. However it is quite possible to get away without one.

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Is that link you gave me only for water changes? or to build the whole filter?

cos it just seems like for water changes...

i really have no idea at all about how a mini reef filter system works as i have never even seen one!!

so if anyone could just explain to me the simple mechanics and how it all works, in simple laymans terms hehe, then i should be able to understand it better before i go ahead with any purchases/building etc

thanks

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three 6 foot tanks on a mini reef is very high if they are the 18-20 inch. you need 6 inches or more between the tanks also.are you going to use 15 inch or so high tanks and at least 18 wide?this is a good smile.gif way to keep the height down a bit.

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G'day Adrian

The first link i gave you was to a site that was talking about water changes, however it cold also be used instead of drilling your tank.

More links that describe the operation and manufacture of a trickle filter system

http://www.fishkeepersforum.org/hardware/trickle/trickle.asp No pics but but looks similar in construction to mine.

http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/wetdry.htm Looks pretty good

http://nucalf.physics.fsu.edu/pfohl/Fish/Diy/trickle

http://www.myaquaria.com/gallery/diytf10 Some pics of his system

Hope this helps

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well i was hoping for the 18inch height in each tank

height isnt too much of a concern as it is going in the garage and it happens to have a ceiling of about 5 metres high.

i guess ill need to use a ladder etc to access the tank and fish in the top tank, hopefully the other two will be at a level which i can reach without any assistance.

anyone know of any good carpenters etc who can knock up a good solid stand for a reasonable price?

btw thanks for all those links matt, they are much appreciated!

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i think its better.for one thing at least it saves you from chasing fish back and forth when they hide behind a standpipe.that is if you prefer them to the outlet bulkhead on the side of the ttank.but with those you get pipes sticking out and it takes space and i think they look untidy.

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Hi Adrian,

Just a thought, I personally prefer a steel rack for your requirements. It's stronger and less bulky which means more room between tanks/shorter rack. You can get it made from a welder or get one of those pallet rack.

How wide are the tanks gonna be? You may need to anchor the rack to the wall for extra security as it's quite high.

Say, from top to bottom:

Tank............46cm

Beam...........10cm

Space..........20cm

Tank............46cm

Beam...........10cm

Space..........20cm

Tank............46cm

Beam...........10cm

Space..........20cm

So, total height will be around 228cm and the rack will be 182cm. You can eliminate the bottom space but, it's better to have some as it helps when siphoning water out.

Good luck.

DD

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Used Dexion racking is the go! You can get it for low prices most of the time and even cheaper at auctions when companies go out of business. Holds about 2500 kg per 2.5M section. You could paint it to suit as the used stuff is usually a bit rough and is mostly orange and blue.

Don't forget to Dynabolt it to the floor!

Cheers - OziOscar.

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G'day Adrian

The type of filter/filtration you get is dependant on what you prefer. Personally I like sidedrop filters (glass corner thingy).

My reasons are:

* They run on air

* I do not require a UV steriliser {Can be quite expensive to buy and run}

* No need for a big power hungry water pump

* Very little chance (within reason) of disease transmission between tanks

If I were setting up again I would create all of my tanks with either ice cream filters - small tanks, and for big tanks (4ft +), side drop filters. Then put that together in a system using the pipe overflow system

http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/diy_...ter_changes.php

{This would assist with the mundane water changing}

And I think you have a good system ready to go with relatively low maintenance.

IF you decide on a linked up central filter system please use a UV steriliser. Some people have gone to the trouble of building a central filtration system only to suddenly find they have a disease which causes MASSIVE problems, in lots of their tanks. mad.gif

On a positive note, the central sump system allows you to have only a few heaters and this can save you lots of money when setting it all up.

Another positive factor is that a central sump system makes maintenance on the ONE filter easier and also makes water changes a LOT easier.

The other factor is the amount of power that a pump suitable for this system draws. Usually over 100 watts. This is a big factor that you need to consider, especially when you consider that all of my fishroom tanks are run on air and the air pump draws only 42 watts!

This is just my opinion, but please keep asking questions, because after it is built it will be really hard to change! blink.gif

Goodluck biggrin.gif

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Ok

firstly what is a UV sterilizer? how does it work? what does it do etc?

there is a lot of info im getting and its much appreciated guys!

im still trying to picture it all in my head at the moment.

is it possible to simply do a water change by re-routing the plumbing for a short time?

i was planning on having the sump etc all underneath the tanks on the rack

i think i will look into having a metal frame build or sourced, for the tanks.

with the heaters how do u set it up?

i have heard that the heat rises through the tanks naturally, plus the flow through all tanks of the water. is it possible to put the heaters all in the sump somewhere so the water is preheated before it enters the tanks?

what r the main problems with having a 100w+ pump? apart from the electricity bill

i figure if i have 3 6 foot tanks and ran them on say individual cannister filters the electricity bill would be similar anyway, seeing most filters to handle such large tanks would at least be 20-30w if not a little more?

i know for my 4x2x2 i got a 2217 eheim and its rated at 20w i think.

dynabolting it to the floor could be a trouble cos dad decided ages ago to pave the garage floor.

i could bolt it to the wall as suggested.

then again we r supposed to move very soon so if that happens then i will have to hold off and re think it all. especially the height cos right now im lucky to have a high ceiling.

anyway thanks guys, if u got any more info it would be much appreciated

im still pondering it all

i wanna at least try and start building the sump and filter soon.

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HI

UV steriliser uses uv-C type light to kill off parasites, and help make the algae chunks stick together so your mechanical filter can clean it. Put simply it stops ALL your fish in the seperate tanks from getting the same disease, a good buy. the bulb has to be replaced every year for around $70, (9 watt tube good for 1200L of water)

mmm..if u use canister filters they are gravity fed, if u use a 100watt pump (a big one) it won't be but u might need a float switch to run it.

-Ernie

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