Yeders

Thanks for all of your suggestions. Yeah I've also looked online, lots of ideas and different ways to do things, but many dont get into the detail. Yes I was going down the 90mm drain water PVC route for the carbon with the micro pre filters. Fairly easy to do. I just wanted to get the theory right first. But I might not be able to do that... We'll see! I might do some experiments on a reduced scale. That should work... One thing worth mentioning... You mentioned that if free chlorine is zero, then chloramine is zero. As far as I knew, Free chlorine only detects chlorine. Total chlorine tests also detect chloramines. I'm not familiar with the pool test kits with the tablets though. Is that total or free chlorine? It would be good to see how different your tap water total chlorine is vs your local water report. Mine seems to be pretty similar. Both the Brisbane and Sydney water reports differentiate between free chlorine and total chlorine. When you test your water, your test needs to include total chlorine. I have some test strips that test both total and free. And as somewhat expected, I get 0 free and 1ppm of total. I'll let you know how I get on with the carbon saga. Cheers!

@fishdance Hi again! I'd really like some help with this! I've been doing some math on activated carbon / granular/ cat etc. It's very hard to get adsorption profiles for GAC regarding chloramines. Was your fish setup in Brisbane? Do you know if your water report now, (avg. 3.2ppm chloramine) was similar to what it was back then? And, do you know the absorption limit of the GAC you used? Keeping the math very short, from what I've read, GAC only absorbs 0.5mg of chloramine per g of carbon, and at 3.2ppm of chloramines, and 380g of carbon in a 10" cartridge, its only 60L of water treated. The amount of water you're saying you treated with a single 10" cartridge is massssivvveee, eg. 2.5kg of chloramines treated with 380g of GAC There must be something I'm not accounting for!

Thanks for that! Indeed, I'll have drippers at ~3 different levels. Given that I already have adjustable drippers (non-PC), I'll set them up and measure the water collected over x time period and adjust accordingly. I think that I'll be able to determine a rough LPH, from drops per second (or mL per second/minute) and adjust. Then look at how things change when house members are showering, etc. I'll see if I start pulling out my hair as slowly down some drippers might blow out others! Would there be benefit into adding a pressure regulator before or after the 5micron & GAC filter? eg, a 300kpa : https://www.bunnings.com.au/pope-300kpa-pressure-reducer_p3121926 So then, the pressure is constant at the source? Again, thinking out loud, depending on the number of drippers, 300kpa might be limiting? (probably not for my limited set up, but for others to consider). Thanks for your help.

Hi All, From what I understand, these drippers are a set L/hour rating, so they aren't adjustable; you just need to buy different rates. From my understanding, they come in 2, 4, and 8L/hr. Is that the case? If so, I might need to rethink my current set-up as I have a few hold tanks (like, 80L) that should have their water changed, but at 2L/hr, it would turn over in <2 days which is faster than necessary. The alternative would be to set that specific line on a timer/solenoid and run it only every few days. But that adds complexity which should be avoided... am I right? 😂