MikeWs Fish Posted August 22, 2005 Share Posted August 22, 2005 Hi there. Is theyre a type of coil you can buy to take nitrates out of the water. If so, where do I get it from? Whats a good price? want to get 1-2 for 120L tanks. Aline ('Chipimbi'), I remember you saying something about having ones of these on your tropheus tanks? Also PS: I cant use the sump its too noisy LOL, so gotta get a few smaller ones. PPS: I know water changes reduce nitrates but i am talking about complete erradication, or as much as possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brayden's dad Posted August 22, 2005 Share Posted August 22, 2005 http://www.aceforums.com.au/index.php?showtopic=17392&hl= Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeWs Fish Posted August 22, 2005 Author Share Posted August 22, 2005 Thanks for that . I'd prefer to just buy one or two though. Do you know wheer I can buy them from? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ducksta Posted August 22, 2005 Share Posted August 22, 2005 Mike, it's a long tube with a tap to control flow rate. How much are you prepared to pay? I have plenty of airline and taps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeWs Fish Posted August 23, 2005 Author Share Posted August 23, 2005 If you manage to make one or two that actually work and dont use chemicals that will kill my fish and test it etc, I'm willing to trade some certain very rare, bright yellow fry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ash Posted August 23, 2005 Share Posted August 23, 2005 I made another 4 of them yesterday for $32 from bunnings. 4x10m 4mm flexable riser tube (picture slightly stiffer black airline) + taps Tee into a mini-reef or canister return adjust flow to a fast drip wait for it to cycle after 8 weeks they started working for me, there's some more into in that thread Brayden's Dad posted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bijengum Posted August 23, 2005 Share Posted August 23, 2005 Hi Ash, How do you go with leaks if taping into a canister return. Do you just use the barbed fittings or is there another way. I made another 4 of them yesterday for $32 from bunnings. 4x10m 4mm flexable riser tube (picture slightly stiffer black airline) + taps Tee into a mini-reef or canister return adjust flow to a fast drip wait for it to cycle after 8 weeks they started working for me, there's some more into in that thread Brayden's Dad posted ← Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ash Posted August 23, 2005 Share Posted August 23, 2005 mine are in mini-reefs but I assume you can use the puncture barbs on cannister hoses too. The little push in barbs they use in irrigation to attach the riser line to 13/19mm black PVC pipe. I have no leaks, but seeing as I put mine just above the pump inside the mini-reef it probably wouldn't matter if I did - I guess you should be more paranoid with a canister - must admit I didn't think of that. It works with that flexable clear vinyl hose and with the solid black pipe, both without leaks, so it should work on the average cannister hose too. YMMV & all that. The other method would be to tee it into a powerhead somehow - though this would be visable in the tank of course. I just wanted to say - all I'm advocating is that the little coils of hose do work & make a difference. they do not replace water changes but they can help prolong the intervals or ensure "cleaner" water (nitrate wise) in between waterchanges. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Posted August 23, 2005 Share Posted August 23, 2005 G'day Mike Honestly there is no point in buying them prebuilt. There is nothing to it. (Just airline tubing about 40 meters of it and some flow control device. Eg an airline valve.) I agree that a normal barb will do the job to penetrate the cannister tubing. Just regulate it so that there is a flow of one to two (1-2) drops per second. hth Matthew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bijengum Posted August 23, 2005 Share Posted August 23, 2005 Did you use the thin wall tube or the high pressure type. mine are in mini-reefs but I assume you can use the puncture barbs on cannister hoses too. The little push in barbs they use in irrigation to attach the riser line to 13/19mm black PVC pipe. I have no leaks, but seeing as I put mine just above the pump inside the mini-reef it probably wouldn't matter if I did - I guess you should be more paranoid with a canister - must admit I didn't think of that. :blush: It works with that flexable clear vinyl hose and with the solid black pipe, both without leaks, so it should work on the average cannister hose too. YMMV & all that. The other method would be to tee it into a powerhead somehow - though this would be visable in the tank of course. I just wanted to say - all I'm advocating is that the little coils of hose do work & make a difference. they do not replace water changes but they can help prolong the intervals or ensure "cleaner" water (nitrate wise) in between waterchanges. ← Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ash Posted August 23, 2005 Share Posted August 23, 2005 whatever airline tubing is - there woundn't be much pressure in there so I don't think it matters Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeWs Fish Posted September 3, 2005 Author Share Posted September 3, 2005 Hey guys, just be aware that if your drip rate is too high or too low, you will either be producing Hydrogen sulfide or excess nitrites. Neither of these are any good for fish LOL There is an alternative. Sachem makes a product that remiovues nitrates and other nasites from the tank. IT costs around $30 for a quantity that will do a 200L tank for 6 months X 10 uses before the product is no good. The product is recyclable for up to ten goes. You need to bleach the crystals and then bath them in Prime to recycle it. I have them working on 3 tanks. The tanks are crytsal clear and the nitrates are at 0ppm.. The tanks I am not using them on look pretty crusty and yellow in comparison. Anyways, HTH Mike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eaglebarret Posted September 3, 2005 Share Posted September 3, 2005 What is the name of the product? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeWs Fish Posted September 3, 2005 Author Share Posted September 3, 2005 There is 'Purigen' or 'denitrate'. I have ther 'purigen'. Seems to be doing a good job so far. HTH. Mike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ash Posted September 3, 2005 Share Posted September 3, 2005 how are you using the purigen exactly? Is it in a cannister? I remember reading to work as a denitrator you need a pretty low flowrate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ant Posted September 3, 2005 Share Posted September 3, 2005 Is it possible that using these products could disrupt the nitrogen cycle? Whats wrong with doing plenty of water changes to dilute nitrates? Anthony PS: Devils Advocate here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markus13 Posted September 3, 2005 Share Posted September 3, 2005 Why not use something that is guaranteed to work, such as a De-Nitrification unit. (AquaMedic NR400, 1000, 5000). It can be computer controlled, so it will maintain the balance needed to ensure a correct balance. One of my friends, plus 2 other members of another local forum are currently testing these units, as well as a thorough review on a Fluidised Sand Filter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeWs Fish Posted September 4, 2005 Author Share Posted September 4, 2005 Hey guys, just be aware that if your drip rate is too high or too low, you will either be producing Hydrogen sulfide or excess nitrites. Neither of these are any good for fish LOL I dont like te idea of having to constantly check the drip rate. The aqaumedic model costs around $200 when you get it cheaply. Plus I'm not good at DIY, and dont like the idea of making a dodgy one of these that doesnt work properly as you could either be producing Hydrogen sulfide or excess nitrites. Is it possible that using these products could disrupt the nitrogen cycle? Whats wrong with doing plenty of water changes to dilute nitrates? I've been checking using test kits. I have nH4 = 0 N02 = 0 No3 = 0 Water chanes are all good but sometimes you have sensitive fish that wont breed with nitrates and phosphates around. I give them both water changes and 0 nitrate. The water changes are mainly to scoop up crap and keep the water soft etc. The tanks that I'm using purigen in are crystal clear and my other taks look very dirty compared (water changes 2 times a week ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TropheusQueen Posted September 4, 2005 Share Posted September 4, 2005 I dont like te idea of having to constantly check the drip rate. The aqaumedic model costs around $200 when you get it cheaply. Plus I'm not good at DIY, and dont like the idea of making a dodgy one of these that doesnt work properly as you could either be producing Hydrogen sulfide or excess nitrites. We have been using de- nitrating coils for about two years with tropheus with suberb results. The drip rate hardly ever needs adjustment and is quickly checked at the weekly water changes We use 40 – 50 meters of 4mm tubing. (Airline tubing or even irrigation tubing will do). Flow rate at 1-2 drops a second regulated by a normal airline valve. We make sure the return goes into the intake of the filter - due to the possibility of by products such as nitric acid forming. Our trickle filter has had no problems removing this should it occur. Cheap, ridiculously effective and test kits given a run for their money in trying to detect levels of any nasties Even technically challenged girlies like me can understand this piece of DIY took a while though! Cheers Aline Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ant Posted September 4, 2005 Share Posted September 4, 2005 I would like to see a picture of this, i'm finding it hard to picture exactly what the product is and how it works. Anthony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeWs Fish Posted September 4, 2005 Author Share Posted September 4, 2005 AA - Purigen: http://www.seachem.com/products/product_pages/Purigen.html Links to DIY denitrator coils can be found earlier in this thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ndoboi Posted September 5, 2005 Share Posted September 5, 2005 An interesting subject, close to the heart of many Tang breeders, im sure :-) Damn sensitive fish! Can anyone tell me where you can get aquamedic gear in Australia? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YeW Posted September 5, 2005 Share Posted September 5, 2005 I've used the coils on the top of my tanks in the past. It's easy to setup and they work well. I've had no issues with nasties but agree with Aline/Matt that the outlet should be near (or in) the filter uptake. 40 m of black irrigation tube, a power head, a tap, a few bits of pipe and some hose clamps are all that's required. Flow rates are 2-4 litres per hour. George Booth (planted tank legend) has demonstrated a coil setup on his planted tank removed 3mg nitrate / hour - that's impressive! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skippy Posted September 5, 2005 Share Posted September 5, 2005 George Booth (planted tank legend) has demonstrated a coil setup on his planted tank removed 3mg nitrate / hour - that's impressive! ← This is a little off topic but isn't it unusual to be using a denitratifying coil on a planted tank? I thought most "planties" had trouble supplying enough nitrates to their plants. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ash Posted September 6, 2005 Share Posted September 6, 2005 that's what I thought too? interestingly, one of my most heavily stocked tanks has pretty darn low nitrate - and it's the only cichlid tank without a denitrating coil!! it has an AC300 fitted with 3 sponges (right to the top) sitting right under the fluros - it always has a heap of algae growing on the waterfall in & the top sponge - I think I've got an accidental algae denitrator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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