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Skippy

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Skippy last won the day on June 14

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36 Mbuna

About Skippy

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    Pike (Post Junkie)
  • Birthday 23/09/1976

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    Gungahlin, ACT

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  1. I have to try to catch a shot of my dominant male Rusty his colours are pretty good when he is switched on
  2. I picked up some pure Saulosi from Andrew @ Labyrinth Aquarium a while ago and have a decent colony doing well in my 5 x 2 x 2 along with some F1 and F2 Rusties One of the girls Sub-dominant male Rustie
  3. The peacock is looking considerably less colourful than in the earlier posts, is that just a temporary thing when you took the photo or more long term? 👍 I'm never sure when it comes to medications which ones you need to know a secret handshake to get and which ones are off the shelf. Then there's always the medications you can get in products not designed for fish like levamisole in Big L wormer.
  4. Interesting, where did you source the Praziquantel?
  5. Iodotropheus sprengerae (Rusty cichlids) work well with electric yellows. They tend to inhabit the mid to upper levels of the tank which in my experience encourages the electric yellows upwards too. Rusties aren't renowned for being aggressive and do best in a good size group.
  6. If you like the look of the substrate you already have then there is no need to change it. South America is pretty big so there are a wide variety of biotopes present including ones with gravel substrate. If you are going for a natural look, the hard scape and plants are probably more important than the substrate. The internet recommends over stocking African cichlids tanks to cut down on aggression which leads the internet to recommend "over filtering" and big water changes for African cichlid tanks. Your 600 lph filter turns over the 90 litres of water a little more than 6 times an h
  7. Your plan should be fine and give you a head start on the new tank, most of the bacteria will establish on the bio-media in the filter and coral rubble etc. Start slowly on the new tank though because the bacteria in the filter and media you moved over into the new tank will initially only be able to consume the same amount of ammonia and nitrite that it was consuming in 60 litre bin. If you avoid extremes or large sudden changes your water parameters shouldn't affect the cycle too much. Now might be a good time to experiment with buffers and find out how much you need to add to your
  8. The raffle also has dry goods and you get a choice of what left of the table so you should be able to find something you like.
  9. I'd only go for 100% fresh water in the bag if the fish were looking really rough or the water was fouled. A few drops of Prime if I was opening the bag to put a bit more air in. Mostly though I just leave them as is in the bag they came in.
  10. I normally go for option 1 but I have supplies (extra bags, elastic bands, prime) on hand to rebag the fish if they aren't looking 100%.
  11. I had some albinos with black marks on their fins, similar to what I see on the fin, years ago. I assumed they were bruising or injuries. I can't remember if the marks disapeared (healed?) or if I sold them with the marks. None of my current albinos have them.
  12. I haven't used either of those brands but I have been running a Beamswork 5ft white/blue/moonlight LED on my unplanted Malawi cichlid tank for the past year and it does a decent job. I've had no problems with it and all the diodes are still working. The only thing I don't like is needing to toggle the switch to change from white to blue to moonlight but to get a programmable light is a big jump in price.
  13. I've got a healthy colony of Saulosi that I sourced from Andrew at Labyrinth so I am confident they are pure.
  14. Their prices must have shot up a lot in the past 12 months, I didn't pay anywhere near that for mine. Edit - delivery usually adds a fair bit to the price, I ended up hiring a van and DIYing instead of getting Abyss to deliver
  15. Interesting article published in Nature about the timeline of cichlid deversification https://www.nature.com/articles/s41467-020-17827-9#Fig1
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