electricyellowz Posted September 8, 2008 Share Posted September 8, 2008 Hi everyone, During the school holidays I am going to convert my laundry room that has tanks scattered to a tidyer fish room with a bunch of 2ft tanks run off of sponge filters. Thats it a total mess with more tanks that you can't even see. I am going to build a small pallet for the tanks to sit on (like the ones that are used for bricks to sit on) as I have hight problems as the ceiling is low in that spot. This rack is going to hold 9-11 of the 2 footers ( I have the space for 11 of them but may need the extra 4ft to use as storage an to get to the back of the tanks) This tank will be removed and the pallet style stand will go up there in its place. Then I have a small ledge which is only 300mm or so wide that I am going to build a wooden platform to extend this by another 320mm or so. This may also accomodate a few tanks on the ends of his but that is for my mum to decide . Thats the ledge that I plan on extending. I won't have too much trouble with the wood side of things as I am getting some help with this and I think I am pretty good with building things anyways (well we shall find out ) But if you have any ideas on how I can build this PLEASE let me know as that would be awesome. My problem starts with the high volume air pump being in that I dont know what type to go for. I like the looks of the HT-200 from AOA but I am not sure if it can handle the 15 tank maximum as it is quoted on being able to handle. Has anyone used this one or know of a better one to use that can handle this many tanks without being too much of a power sucker? Once I get the air pump I want to have the air pass through some sort of pipework (pvc) above the top of the tanks and then I will drill holes in it (one above each tank) and put a vaulve into the hole and attach air line so they reach each tank from above. All up there should be no more than 5-6 metres of pipe (probably less but just incase) now this is where the questions start: I plan to have the pipework travel up the right hand wall where the styro box is (that area is for fish related storage + air pump) and travel to the ceiling and go left so it will be above the two footers! Will the two above paragraphs work? I mean will there be enough air pressure from the HT-200 to travel through the pipe work and make a sponge filter function properly? Especially the ones at the far end of the pipe? If it is too weak what size airpump should I get? How many lpm? Is pvc the right pipe to use or should I be using something different? What should the diameter of the pipe be? 20mm? or the smaller the better? What sort of attachment should I use from the pipe to the airline? I think that is it for now but don't worry I will have some new questions soon hahahaha. Please critisize the more the better Thanks very much, Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hobcas Posted September 8, 2008 Share Posted September 8, 2008 G'day Ben, It's about time you did a tidy up on your laundry and got yourself organised with a fishroom. Here's alink to an air pump thread with lots of good input from Josh that will give you a clear understanding. air system I don't know anything about your current air pump of choice but if you could afford it I would probably fork out a bit extra and go up to an LP60 (70lph) I can source these for about $110, it ensures you will always have enough redundancy to add more tanks or add extra air driven filtration on your tanks. OR an LP20 for $50 plus delivery they are 22lph. Feel free to visit to check out my completed air system for ideas. I'm not sure what you mean by a pallet, one possibility would e to come out from the back wall by using a ledger and attach hanger bracket and joists and then at the front use a post and stirrup secured to the floor, this way you don't need to rely on that uneven looking floor to get a level. Your second tier I would lift up and back from that ledge that way eliminating your need to come out forward so far 320mm. I can picture it in my head but sorry about my explanation. Cheers Ross Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
electricyellowz Posted September 8, 2008 Author Share Posted September 8, 2008 Thanks for the link ross that does help and pretty much answers my question. Where did you get the lp60 from? It is only a little bit more than the one I was going to get and a few people have said it is really good. So at least I have my air pump issues sorted out! Does it matter that I will only have a maximum of 15 sponge filtes going? I mean where or what would I need to do with the excess air? If you are free sometime before the holidays I would love to come by and get some ideas! Do you mean put a bracket into the wall and then use a pole to hold up the end of the bracked that is attached to the wall?? And then cover the top with wood? Cause if you dont I have no clue By pallet I meant build a large pallet like the ones you put bricks on. Thanks alot, Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BaZ Posted September 9, 2008 Share Posted September 9, 2008 I'm not sure whether my reaction is or . Either way, your idea of replacing this is the best idea I have heard all week As for your pump, I used an LP40 in my fishroom when it was up and running. It ran about 15 air stones in 45omm deep water and there was still some excess air to bleed off. Going for a bigger pump will give you more air in reserve if you think you might need more one day for extra tanks or just some extra aeration in hot weather. Any excess is normally bled off via an extra tap or 2, and it was recommended to me that I should always have some excess air being bled off to reduce the pressure on the pump and thus extend its life. The LP range are available at AOA for reasonable prices As for your racking, what hobcas is describing is exactly the way you build a deck which hangs off the back of a house, but on a smaller scale. If you want something which isn't fixed to the wall there are other options but it really depends on your woodworking abilities. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hobcas Posted September 10, 2008 Share Posted September 10, 2008 As for your racking, what hobcas is describing is exactly the way you build a deck which hangs off the back of a house, but on a smaller scale. If you want something which isn't fixed to the wall there are other options but it really depends on your woodworking abilities. Exactly like a deck. That perhaps would have been an easier way to describe it. Ben shoot me a txt / PM or call, I work from home so am around most days. Cheers Ross NB: Ideas free of charge / labour expensive........lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
electricyellowz Posted September 11, 2008 Author Share Posted September 11, 2008 I know Baz its really messy but that is what I am going to fix up these holidays. I have ordered an LP60 some more sponge filters and 100m of airline (you can never have enough of this stuff )from AOA. I am going up to longjetty aquarium to order my nine two foot tanks hopefully tomorrow. I also went down to bunnings and got the plastic fittings for the airline to attach to the pvc, got the plastic things that you put into a predrilled concrete hole so you can screw stuff to the concrete and the screws I need. Also I have picked out the wood I am using so I am well on the way to get started! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BaZ Posted September 12, 2008 Share Posted September 12, 2008 I know Baz its really messy but that is what I am going to fix up these holidays. It wasn't mess that I was commenting on, it was the matter of a glass tank full of water balanced on a bunch of different sized bricks and blocks (well that's how it appears in the photo). Seems like a recipe for disaster so I'm glad you are fixing it. Remember, glass is sharp when broken. If that tank breaks or falls for some reason it could probably take a foot off It sounds like you're on your way with the rest of it, don't forget to take lots of photos along the way so we can see the transformation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishdance Posted September 13, 2008 Share Posted September 13, 2008 Its not clear how you are going to arrange your tanks but if space is tight, I would put all your 2 foot tanks end on. Actually I even put all my 3 foot tanks end on. This can almost double the number of tanks in a room. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
electricyellowz Posted September 13, 2008 Author Share Posted September 13, 2008 Good idea, thats what I think I may do to maxamise my tank numbers. Thanks fishdance, Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
electricyellowz Posted September 16, 2008 Author Share Posted September 16, 2008 *Update* The balancing act tank has been removed and the area will be ready for some construction! I am aiming to have 16 2 footers in there and I have the air system all worked out. Everything has arrived safely from AOA aswell. The tanks will be going end on aswell (thanks fishdance). Its all green lights so far! BEn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishdance Posted September 18, 2008 Share Posted September 18, 2008 Good idea, thats what I think I may do to maxamise my tank numbers. Thanks fishdance, Ben Your very welcome Ben. I would also recommend a central drain even if it is just some PVC running along the bottom of your tank stands. This makes water changes much easier and you might want automatic water change/top-up one day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ant265 Posted September 18, 2008 Share Posted September 18, 2008 How do you setup automatic water change/ top-up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
electricyellowz Posted September 26, 2008 Author Share Posted September 26, 2008 Wouldn't mind knowing that either Ant. Well the tanks have been ordered and will be here this time next week. I ended up getting 12 not the origional 16 as I wanted some storage space etc. The tanks are 2x14x18 and only ended up costing me $30 dollars each which I thought was pretty good value I also have bought the pvc and all of the elbow joints etc that I need so all that is left is me getting the wood! Nothing much else has changed but I will put up some pics when it does. Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishdance Posted September 26, 2008 Share Posted September 26, 2008 Automatic water change is pretty simple and can be easily applied for one tank or 100 tanks (on a central filtration system). At its simplest, you add new water into a tank/system and allow it displace old water out. You will need a drilled tank or overflow (various options) to collect the displaced water into a drain. I advocate a slow drip 24/7 through an activated carbon filter to add new water. The carbon removes chlorine and chloramine and the slow drip allows low pressure fittings (micro irrigation) to be used which are smaller and cheaper than pressure fittings. I prefer 24/7 especially in cold winter as this will minimise the effects of periodical "bad tap water" which does happen. If there is ever a technical problem, the effects of a slow drip are much less too. There are many who do not even use the carbon filter since their daily water change amount does not have enough chlorine to be dangerous but the cost of a carbon filter is very economical. I use a self pack cartridge type which saves me even more money and allows me to use a higher grade of carbon. If you normally water change 10% weekly then simply set your drippers to have the same rate. You won't be wasting more water and probably saving some. If you want to gravel clean then you still can although you will simply be removing mulm (much less water removal - saving time and effort) and of course you don't need to manually refill the tanks afterwards. To summarise; you need a water source, a drain to collect waste water and each tank needs an overflow/drain. Most fish rooms would utilise some variation of this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michiel Posted September 26, 2008 Share Posted September 26, 2008 Automatic water change is pretty simple and can be easily applied for one tank or 100 tanks (on a central filtration system). At its simplest, you add new water into a tank/system and allow it displace old water out. You will need a drilled tank or overflow (various options) to collect the displaced water into a drain. I advocate a slow drip 24/7 through an activated carbon filter to add new water. The carbon removes chlorine and chloramine and the slow drip allows low pressure fittings (micro irrigation) to be used which are smaller and cheaper than pressure fittings. I prefer 24/7 especially in cold winter as this will minimise the effects of periodical "bad tap water" which does happen. If there is ever a technical problem, the effects of a slow drip are much less too. There are many who do not even use the carbon filter since their daily water change amount does not have enough chlorine to be dangerous but the cost of a carbon filter is very economical. I use a self pack cartridge type which saves me even more money and allows me to use a higher grade of carbon. If you normally water change 10% weekly then simply set your drippers to have the same rate. You won't be wasting more water and probably saving some. If you want to gravel clean then you still can although you will simply be removing mulm (much less water removal - saving time and effort) and of course you don't need to manually refill the tanks afterwards. To summarise; you need a water source, a drain to collect waste water and each tank needs an overflow/drain. Most fish rooms would utilise some variation of this. How do you buffer the water on this system? I know Americans does this as their water is already at more or less perfect GH and KH. Please educate me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
electricyellowz Posted September 28, 2008 Author Share Posted September 28, 2008 Just a quick update..... All the pipework has been done and fitted to the ceiling so now all that is left is to move the tanks (and sell them), make the top rack and build the extension (should not take too long hopefully ). Just a few pics of the finished pipework (and me attatching the last piece) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishdance Posted September 29, 2008 Share Posted September 29, 2008 How do you buffer the water on this system? I know Americans does this as their water is already at more or less perfect GH and KH. Please educate me To be honest, I would not buffer water for Americans unless they are a finicky species which requires soft water to breed. Even discus can be kept happily in hard water if you are not trying to breed them. The tap water is already well buffered on the hard alkaline side so there is no need to add other salts IMO. Most fish in Australia are not wild caught and have never experienced their "natural" water or biotypes. So while I do not buffer water, if you wanted to, the three most obvious solutions would be to either a) use a large holding/mixing tank to pre-prepare water or b) use a dosing mixer which adds what you want at a precise calculated dose/time. There are several types available. Gardeners who want to add fertilisers for example. c) Using some type of buffer directly in the tanks as substrate or in soaker bags (like big tea bags). ie coral sand for hard water or peat moss/leaves for soft. As mentioned, the tap water is already hard and alkaline. If you wanted to water change a lot of soft water I would invest in a rainwater tank and just use that as a water source. There are devices which don't collect the initial part of rain storms to avoid any air pollutants. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
electricyellowz Posted October 1, 2008 Author Share Posted October 1, 2008 Well I cant believe I am saying this already but, it is complete (exept for the tanks being in getting 5 tomorrow and the rest on friday). Well here are some pics in the stages of the transformation. Cleaning the floor (man it was dirty under the tanks) Hammer drilling the supports into the wall for the top deck (I ditched my old idea as it looked really crap (also thanks Baz+Ross for the idea)) My friend Beau drilling in some slats Slats finished up to and now we are starting on the bottom deck Bottom deck almost done but we were one piece short (had to drive back to bunnings for one bloody piece) Happy days bottom deck finished! Top deck oiled and front put on to hide the nasty looking pylons underneath it. Finally all finished and oiled!!!!!!!!!!!! Both decks are 4 metres long so there is going to be room for more tanks! Thanks for looking Ben Will update when the tanks are up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CounterStriker Posted October 1, 2008 Share Posted October 1, 2008 congrats mate looks awsome, all the hard work payed off i wish i could have a fish room anyways nice 1!!!!! cheers lee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
katatoniq Posted October 2, 2008 Share Posted October 2, 2008 i'm eagerly watching this thread mate thats a really cool project you have going and you're a lucky bugger to have so much space to play with! AWESOME. can only imagine how late you'll stay up tonight setting up however many tanks you're going to squeeze in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
electricyellowz Posted October 2, 2008 Author Share Posted October 2, 2008 That will be tomorrow night most probably katatonig as the rest of the tanks will be here then. I cannot wait! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
electricyellowz Posted October 3, 2008 Author Share Posted October 3, 2008 Well it is all finished now. Pipes have been drilled and all tanks fitted and filled with water! Only had one hiccup today and that was dropping and breaking a tank (that sucks especially when it is brand spanking new). But it did not really matter as it would not have fit up top anyway (there is 11 tanks up there with room for the air pump + me) Here you go have a look Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
katatoniq Posted October 3, 2008 Share Posted October 3, 2008 gee mate great job. what are you going to stock it with? i would have given those walls and roof a coat of paint before i put all that gear in there heh :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
electricyellowz Posted October 3, 2008 Author Share Posted October 3, 2008 Exactly what my mum said! I think I am going to get some spraypaint and do the walls behind the tanks (cause I can just fit behind them). I am not sure what I am going to put in there? Catfish and tangs I think. Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ant265 Posted October 4, 2008 Share Posted October 4, 2008 That looks really neat now! Good job Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.