Bradc Posted October 5, 2016 Share Posted October 5, 2016 Tonight i used a 2 30cm by 15cm sponges from my teirs sump that is established in my canister filter also cleaned all the grime out of the other sponges into a bucket and poured it into the canister as well. When i say established the teir has been able to have fish in it for 3 months there abouts. Not fussed if it crashes as there is nothing in it apart drom 2 3inch dragon bloods that were given to me. Now how long would you expect to wait before visually seeing nitrates rise or the tank to cycle its a 4x2x2 and has a 2400lph canister filter. Also pinched the holey rock which was covered in BB out of the teir. Also i should mention that the 4x2x2 was on the decrease in ammonia with nitrites starting to rise. Cheers in advance sorry for the noob questions i come out with still learning all this stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted October 10, 2016 Share Posted October 10, 2016 What ammonia source have you been using in the past to raise the ammonia level? Seeing nitrite readings is a good start as it obviously means your nitrogen cycle has at least started. Adding some beneficial bacteria to the system which you have done is great, and should speed up the process a bit, how much nobody will be able to tell you. Doing this in my experience will speed up the process by maybe a couple weeks, but their are so many factors in play. Media used, ammonia source (and amount), temperature etc The first signs of nitrates in your system does not mark the end of the cycling process in your system. I get the feeling you are just like everyone else (myself included) and want the cycling process to be over as quickly as possible, don't rush it. Will only cause headaches later on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bradc Posted October 10, 2016 Author Share Posted October 10, 2016 Ok so long story short ive been using an api test kit. Showed not much was happeningbut had been cycling for about 4 weeks and used ammonia to start the process. Still not showing took my water to my mates house who uses a different kit (name has slipped my mind) showed my tank had no ammonia pretty high nitrites and slight nitrates. Started using seachems stability plus the established media. Checked yesterday had 25ppm nitrites and about 40ppms nitrates so ill wait till nitrites are 0 and 80ppm nitrates do a water change and add a few fish at a time. And yes im very keen to get it cycled as you have read lol. This area has no fish for sale until you cant house anymore and then they all show up. Lined up a quad of venustus from a bloke 1 male 3 females so im wanting to put them in my diplay tank and breed them untill im a little more stocked then ill just sell off the females and have my display tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted October 14, 2016 Share Posted October 14, 2016 Your current plan seems like a winner - let Ammonia and Nitrite hit 0, then do a WC and add fish. I generally repeat this process a couple of times by adding a source of ammonia again and again until my filter is capable of of reducing the Ammonia very quickly or hang a stocking with food in it in the tank to a point where I can't see any ammonia reading (or very very small trace amounts). You will not need to do this with 4 venustus as it is pretty lightly stocked IMO and venustus are pretty hardy fish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bradc Posted October 14, 2016 Author Share Posted October 14, 2016 I hate how the api test kits for ammonia use a pale yellow for 0 ammonia and a very light green to indicate. 25ppm ammonia. Its almost impossible to see if the tank has slight ammonia to no ammonia. Not just for my cycling tank but 3 year old established tanks. Hold it in 1 light looks like it has a tinge of green hold it in another and its yellow. Any suggestions on other reliable test kits? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ageofaquariums Posted October 15, 2016 Share Posted October 15, 2016 The 0.25 reading is actually an "up to 0.25ppm" reading. Hence why most healthy aquariums will test to 0.25ppm with an API ammonia kit. I take note at 0.5ppm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bradc Posted October 15, 2016 Author Share Posted October 15, 2016 Oh really thanks for the info aoa. Was really p!ss!ng me off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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