6x2x2 on floor boards?

[dan walter]

Thats my question, as my chumbu fronts grow im going to need a bigger tank in tje new year.

We have floor boards in this house, i currently have a standard 4fter and a 4.5ft tank (325ltrs).

Do you think id have any issues with the floor boards taking the weight of a 6x2x2?

Do i put some marine ply under the cabinet to help distribute the weight more?

Thanks for any help.

[BengaBoy]

? floorboards, as in real floorboards? or what people call floorboards that are really floating floor over a slab or some substructure?

if real floorboards then they are probably nailed to floor joists that sit on bearers that sit on piers/stumps.

so it comes down to where the tank stand legs are located relative to the floorboard location over the joists/bearers; and the strength of those timbers.

stand will have 4 legs or 6?

metal or wood?

metal has a smaller footprint -think of a stiletto versus a flat shoe on a floorboard, and why in some houses people ask you to take your shoes off.

you want the weight that is transferred to the leg(s) to be transferred to the sub structure supports - ie not sitting on the middle of a floorboard span between joists.

if you can get under the house you could run some extra support timbers in the vulnerable places.

not to be treated lightly. I have heard of 6x2x2s going through timber floors - one was on a mezzanine, luckily no one was in the bed below at the time.

[dan walter]

Cheers mate.

Yeah wood cabinet and the floor boards ate the reel deal.

Not sure i can squeeze that far under the house. I could put it in the living room where the larger one is now, would be able to get to that ok.

[Buccal]

Lay some 120 x 30 jarrah on its flat. 2 x 1.8m long.

Place under feet of stand from left to right.

It's the opposite to the stiletto effect.

[Chuckmeister]

I've read this a few times and resisted replying. Recommending structural loads is something that should really be checked out professionally. Timber can be rotten or loads can be mis-aligned etc or a combination of good or bad luck..

When I was setting up my 8x3, with a 6x2 sump, I was living in a 2 story townhouse with the garage underneath my lounge. I had an engineer that was kind enough to (randomly) chat to me through pm that even though I had a 6" slab that it was unwise to put a couple of ton+ on it. The stand is a full (base)stand to spread the load but It all depended on how the slab was built etc.I never filled the tank on that property so I couldn't dis-credit him

If you are concerned with load then chances are its a concern

Having said that I've had mates that have had 6 or 700 kilo spread over boards and not had an issue.

[BengaBoy]

yeah, I agree Chuckie, that's why I said the issue is not to be treated lightly.

the advantage of a timber sub structure is one can get under there and assess it - type of timber, termite damage, load points; and strengthen if need be.

and there are forums where one can get some ideas on load bearing specs, but they would always add the proviso of getting an engineer

like you, and the advice you received, I wouldn't be loading up a 2nd floor concrete slab without consulting an engineer.

[Buccal]

Personally I'm a mega risk taker.

But the floor so to speak is a cross mesh stitched effect, which can take a fair bit of flex till letting go.

The cross mesh effect is bearers then crossed over with joists then crossed over with floor boards.

The 120x30 I suggested adds another cross stitch then spreads pin point pressure over a longer distance.

If you were to set up as I said then put a level on the floor near.

Keep filling and stopping every quarter and check level to see amount of flex,,,, if it goes past 5mm from original position I'd probably stop.

I'm not a engineer, but I'm a natural for educated guessing, in this field especially. (I'm a carpenter of 24 years, from day I left school to now).

Engineers go by standard hard regulations that will likely give you answers that you don't want to hear.

Then you'll lose your arms and legs to carry out the project. Cost you.

Engineering turn points are always roughly a extra 25% than what's needed for the minimum.

Doing what I suggested puts you in the same realms as placing over close to bearers which needs luck for that to happen to be.

[DWBN]

I recently went through this with a 5x2x2.5 over floating floor boards. Approx 1 tonne once sump and rock are accounted for.

For me, the money spent to provide reinforcement was easily justifiable and only took a few hours to cut and put in place and job done

I ended up adding an extra 4 joists under the tank, and put in an addition set of bearers between the two pile ons. Total cost for $120 and that was for LVLs. I also went to the local recycling centre and picked up 4 adjustable floor jacks for $15 which I was going to put under the bearers.

Point is, if you can get under the house and look, it's not an expensive exercise to provide you with some piece of mind.

[z18turbo]

I currently have an 8x3x2 on timber floor and agree with the engineered approach discussed above. My stand has joist sized timbers along the base so the load is evenly distributed. The tank is close to the wall of the house and the guy that we bought it off had had the section of the house engineered with deeper stumps etc. as he had a 10x2x2.5.

[dan walter]

Great reading, thanks lads for the input very much appreciated.

Great read for anyone.

I spoke to a builder client i have and he gave me some good advice.

Basically rum barers along the bottom of the joists than chock it up. Either with load lifters or stumps.

[Buccal]

Pretty much benga boys advice there anyway.

If you found a pair of second hand acro props,,, it would make your job easier,,, depending on space.

But extra joists and bearers depending,,, with 90x90 struts would be fine.

[BengaBoy]

_{timber sub structures are a lot easier to assess and reinforce}

_{as for concrete on 2nd floors like Chuckie's I would need an engineer to assess as loadings etc are not as easy to work out / come by}

_{if you want to put in some extra piers, these while not real cheap (but not too bad either) can be the go cause they are adjustable:}

_{http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1m-Long-House-Stump-/111850350894?var=&hash=item1a0acce92e:m:mPcu3lXqN_9NIqTZOpGyDwA}

_{he sells a range of stuff}

[Buccal]

Looks like problem solved.

Handy unit if not much head space.