Break point chlorination

[Jim]

This is when u add chlorine to the water to kill of ammonia and then useing a water ager to remove the chlorine ( stored water only not in the tank)

The problem i am having is with chloramine the water ager i am useing (safe & prime) is not removing the ammonia from the water

My question is by using this method (break point chlorination) ammonia 0 and chlorine 0 end result does it do anything to the water chemistry that will effect the fish short or long term.

any advice appreciated

[Jim]

No one with any advice?

Melbourne Bill might have the experience to comment

[Exiledonmainstreet]

That method is considered "taboo" amoungst established aquarists. You should "never" use one "lethal" chemical, to control another. If you dont have a water system which removes the chlorine for you, simply use a market de-chlorinator, and if you have ammonia spikes, do regular 25% water changes, avoid over-feeding, and over-stocking. Another quick fix for the problem that won't harm your livestock in any way is to use "ammolock" to instantly bind the ammonia. It is then converted into a harmless compound, and removed from your tank in a non-harmful form. This should only be used as a stop-gap, and you should heed the above mentioned regimine. I hope this helps. :^:

[BadBlueWS6]

I'd say change the water and filter it with an good carbon mixed with zeolite. Zeolite is a natural ammonia absorbing mineral. As for using a buffering agent to lock the ammonia to where it's safe for your fish, that's great but nothing beats a water change.

Some test kits using regent agents will still show ammonia in the test. Just found that out recently with a little 5 gallon tank.

[Jim]

Thanks guys,

The problem is with my stored water which is in 200 ltr drums when i add the buffers to raise the KH i get ammonia spikes.

I will also try and buffer the water a lot slower/add less per day to see if that helps.

When i add 10 ml of chlorine to 200 ltr and then add a water ager i dont get any ammonia.

[midnightexpress]

Jim

when you use prime or safe,you will allways get ammonia reading using test kits apart from if you use seachem test kit.If you go to seachem web page and look under most asked question you will see it there as well.

hope this helps.

adnan

[midnightexpress]

just do a experament like i did.

get a bucket of water and put in a few drops of prime.then do a ammonia test and see what reading you get.once you do that add about 7 more drops and do a ammonia test again.you will find that the reading will increase.

adnan

[Jim]

I checked seachems website faq thanks adnan,i also emailed the question to seachem technical,will let u know of their reply.

[Jim]

Here is Seachem's reply;

I assume you are storing the water for a long period in the 44 g

drum? If so this the problems. Safe (and Prime and all other ammonia

revomal products) do not physically "remove" the ammonia; they bind

it up into a non-toxic form that is then broken down by the

biofilter. However this non-toxic form is generally only stable for

24 hours... after that it will begin to degrade and release the

ammonia. So, you can either (a) use Prime or Safe just before adding

the water to the aquarium to remove the ammonia again or (b)

stir/aerate the 44 g drum of water so that any ammonia released is

gassed off if you are storing it for several days.