SophSixx Posted November 19, 2015 Share Posted November 19, 2015 I must first mention I'm a newbie to this hobby and have had some bad advice from where I purchased the tank. I've had a 55gal tank cycling going into its 7th week and unfortunately it was with 2 x electric yellow labs (both are active and look fine) . Ammonia went Up to 2ppm even though I was constantly doing daily 20% water changes and then Nitrites kicked in and peaked to 5.00ppm (even with daily water changes). Ammonia started dropping as Nitrites went off the grid and after weeks of wc and daily testing this past week Nitrites have fallen to 0ppm, Nitrate is currently at 5.0ppm but ammonia constantly reading at 0.25ppm. I'm at a loss at what I am doing wrong. Does this mean the cycling process did not work? Even though I have had a hard time with this tank I've gone off and ordered a new 6x2x2, arriving this weekend. Obviously second time around I will be doing a fishless cycle.Any help will be very much appreciated.Thank you in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjoconr Posted November 19, 2015 Share Posted November 19, 2015 Hi Ammonia of 0.25ppm or less would be best, and Nitrate (No3) below 10 is great, below 20 is OK, around 30, more water changes. So what does this mean, in generally things are going the right direction. As the cycle has started I suggest that you keep eye on the Ammonia (NH3/4+) and Nitrites (NO2) and only do more water changes if they go back up. Once a week water changes of 20 to 25 percent are all you should need from now on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Azedenkae Posted November 19, 2015 Share Posted November 19, 2015 It is also possible that you don't have enough biological filter media. Can you describe your setup? Specifically in terms of your filtration system? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SophSixx Posted November 19, 2015 Author Share Posted November 19, 2015 Running a blue planet all in one, filter media it came with-carbon, sponge, bio balls and noodles. I have not as yet cleaned any of the media as I was advised not too until tank was cycled. Should I give the sponge and carbon a rinse when I do my next WC? I thought I was on the right track but the ammonia just won't go down to 0. I think I'm in over my head with the 6 footer getting delivered this weeken?. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuckmeister Posted November 19, 2015 Share Posted November 19, 2015 I would cut your feeding back with a cycling tank also. Fish dont need to be fed every day so maybe feed them lightly every second day and as the tank seeds properly then you can increase your feeding and tanki load.Also remove the carbon. Its not needed at all and your better replacing the spare space with better media like noodles.I would never clean any of the media other than the filter wool and that should be done in tank water so you dont kill the bacteria in the wool.When you get your 6 footer up and running, get some of your dirty wool out of your current filter and squeeze some of it out into the new tank to help seed. Also put a little into your new cannister (assuming you are getting one to suit the 6 foot tank) to help seed that also. It will speed up your cycling enormously. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
intangcity Posted November 19, 2015 Share Posted November 19, 2015 to cycle a new tank to cycle fully can take up to four weeks if not more but i wouldnt be doing 20% daily water changees thats all you need to do weekly.even a fishless cycle still throw in some food to build bacteria.even throw in a bristlenose if you wish you could also use some filter media that is already cycled in the new tank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buccal Posted November 19, 2015 Share Posted November 19, 2015 It's a catch 22 cycling and having fish,,,, The beneficial bacteria (bb), need ammonia as a food source to build in numbers, but fish are effected by the ammo.Every time you prematurely water change, your reducing the ammonia that the bb needs to consume and establish, (the completed cycle).It's best to chance your fish and just let the ammo creep up, so the primary need of the bb is met.As said with your new tank,, with a sixer, do 4 x tablespoons of any pellet food.Keep water at 27.cKeep GH KH at 12.And all this will provide premium conditions for your bb to colonize fast.Remember, you don't keep the fish,,, you keep the water,,,, and the water keeps the fish.Save your self some anxiety,,,,, dump the 4 x tablespoons in, and forget the whole thing for two weeks.Then start testing ammo and nitrites.Once these two nasties don't show readings and your nitrates start showing,,, add 4-5 smallish fish in per week.Everyone has different ideas on safe nitrate levels,, but 30-40 max is ok for Tangs but 20 max is best.Malawi can be fine up to 60ppm or so.Some odd species may have different tolerances.Water changes are simply for diluting nitrates down to minimal safe levels, so don't excessively water change as stability is important for healthy disease free fish.Experienced people can do more water changes.Only clean filters once 70% blocked/restricted.Don't get over zealous,,, be patient and observant,, and you'll kick a r s e. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Azedenkae Posted November 19, 2015 Share Posted November 19, 2015 Actually, I just realized something.Are you measuring with the API test kit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SophSixx Posted November 19, 2015 Author Share Posted November 19, 2015 Thank you all for the advice. yes I am testing with API master kit, and have only been doing so many wc because I felt so bad for the 2 fish that I have in the tank. I will take the carbon out this afternoon and put in more noodles to replace. The 6 footer that is going in on the weekend will be filtered with an FX6, ( hoping the LFS gave me the right advice on this filter ). I also have a G3, should I also run that on the 6 footer as extra filtration or is it a complete waste of time? Also, for the 6 footer, I've been looking through YouTube and have noticed that not everyone have air stones in the tank, is this due to tank size or something as I thought the airstones are needed in there for extra oxygen. I have been feeding once a day but will cut back to every second day. This is such a rewarding hobby but can get very frustrating when things seem to go wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fisheggs Posted November 20, 2015 Share Posted November 20, 2015 If you're using API test kit, it may incorrectly indicate that the ammonia is 0.25. What I'd do is, compare the colour of the test with fresh water i.e. tap water, and see if the colour matches - that's how I was able to determine that my ammonia wasn't actually 0.25 but it was just my eyes/ test kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Azedenkae Posted November 20, 2015 Share Posted November 20, 2015 Thank you all for the advice. yes I am testing with API master kit, and have only been doing so many wc because I felt so bad for the 2 fish that I have in the tank. I will take the carbon out this afternoon and put in more noodles to replace. The 6 footer that is going in on the weekend will be filtered with an FX6, ( hoping the LFS gave me the right advice on this filter ). I also have a G3, should I also run that on the 6 footer as extra filtration or is it a complete waste of time? Also, for the 6 footer, I've been looking through YouTube and have noticed that not everyone have air stones in the tank, is this due to tank size or something as I thought the airstones are needed in there for extra oxygen. I have been feeding once a day but will cut back to every second day. This is such a rewarding hobby but can get very frustrating when things seem to go wrong.Your ammonia should be fine then. API test kits register a 0.25 for most established aquariums. Not entirely sure why. Some say it's just because ammonia's the first thing produced, and is constantly produced so it always registers, even as it is constantly removed. So long as it doesn't get above 0.25, don't worry about ammonia or fixing it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SophSixx Posted November 20, 2015 Author Share Posted November 20, 2015 Thank you guys, that's like music to my ears....I feel like I am conquering the first (although am sure probably not the only ) hurdle. Now I have my fingers crossed that the new 6 foot tank goes smoothly. So glad that there are great forums like this for newbies to seek out some help without getting treated like they just don't belong to fishkeeping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buccal Posted November 20, 2015 Share Posted November 20, 2015 Makes sure water entering back into tank from filter is breaking the surface,, even added power heads or wavemakers to increase aggetation.This allows sufficient oxygen transference.Power heads or air stones do the same thing, keeping water surface breaking and aggetated (oxygen transference).Bubbles traveling upwards Create a air lift that wells at the surface for aggetation.Power heads directly break the surface.Power heads in general work better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SophSixx Posted November 20, 2015 Author Share Posted November 20, 2015 Definitely a lot of water movement in this tank. Looking into powerheads for the new 6 foot tank though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueneon Posted November 25, 2015 Share Posted November 25, 2015 Just use API quick start for first 7 days and add fish immediately to introduce ammonia with minor water changes. It really does work. No need to worry about cycling issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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