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pallet racking to narrow


krellious

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I will be settig up some 8ft long pallet racking. I will have a 6x2.5x2 on the lower level and a 4x2x2 above. However i purchased it as 2ft wide but when i finally got of my buM to set it up it is about 150-200mm to narrow. Will an overhang of 200 at the back be a disaster or should i split the difference and go 100 each side. Ideally overhang at the back so it looks neater at the front.

Cheers

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I personally wouldn't have any over hang at all. Try to change it or find a way to widen the racking.

If you use the rack as they are the tanks will crack.

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yeah i had thought of some timber like that. But te last lot i had cracked my tank as it swelled up. and 2nd hand racking so hard to get a replacement. Also I dont have a grinder so hard to cut the cross braces in the stands to size :(. been waiting for many months to finally set it up and it is the incorrect size

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Even the 600 wide is not quite wide enough for a 2 foot tank as they seem to range from 610 to 620 mm. I use marine ply under my tanks on the pallet racking , make sure you measure the base of your tank you might find its wider than 600.

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oh yeah even the large section racking rated to 2100kg will sag so I brace the lower level with timber and only keep 18 inch deep tanks on the top. I only know this because I had 2 ( 4x2x2 ) about 5mm apart on the bottom rack and when full the gap at the bottom of the tanks was still 5mm but the top of the tanks were almost touching ( a possible disaster )

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If your wanting to enhance structurally to overcome the narrow width,,,,, then bunnings sell 20x20mm Galv square tubing.

You can cut them at your tank width and place across your spanning beams every few hundred millimeters along the length under the tanks,,,,,, then put ply on top of that,,, then 20mm foam.

So cross bracing to collect extra width.

If you have at least 20mm between each tank,,, then you can measure between the ground up to the first beam span and cut to fit the 20x20mm Galv,,,,, then measure between first beam and second beam and cut another and so on.

Even through its only 19x19mm under complete up and down compression there will be no bowing in the 19x19.

When tanks are full,,, the downwards flex of a miliscule will really hold those uprights in a rock sold position.

Both problems solved.

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Thanks mate. Will there be alot of bowing though? My other fear is i will have the 6ft of to 1 side so 2ft would be empty/ Should i centre the tank on the beams or have it to the side allowing for another 2ft tank?\

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If you don't put the uprights from floor to beam then between each beam all in a straight vertical line,,,,, then it would make sense to try and put them towards the outer sides.

But structurally adding the vertical compressed props it won't really matter to much about weight distribution as once the props are in it's neither here nor there whether the weight is a little more from left to right.

But now knowing that you have that extra 200mm or so between the tanks,,,, another alternative to prop material is 90x90 treated pine that is often seen as pergola posts,,, but make sure they are knot free.

Cutting between like already mentioned is probably easiest for a tool use novice,,, but the full length post coud be used and pushed hard against to mark out the beam positions then check out (meaning remove timber half the thickness) which creates shoulders for your beams to slot into and saddle on.

One tech screw with liquid nails at each beam/post cross intersection.

If you got room for the two foot chuck it in,,,, and go the 20x20 steel if it's required to fit the two foot.

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I would bolt 150 x 50 x 3 rectangular tubing at the back to provide the additional width required. The use of marine ply will help distribute the weight and provide a level surface.

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Two comments that come to my mind;

From my life's experience, all tasks, both physical and even intangible thoughts, the quality of the end result is dictated by the work produced in the foundations. That is, no matter how good your finished product is, the level will be dictated by how good its foundations are. Not trying to be a "smarty" or anything, but if you are not satisfied, perhaps you had better get the shelving that suits the tanks? At this point it is easy to have regrets, and to start again. But you sound like you will still have regrets when finished if you keep going, and by the time you are done, it will be virtually impossible to start again.

Having said that... some dexion shelving I used, was a little narrower than a tank or two that I wished to put on it. I had some material left over from an extension done in my home, not sure what it is called, but the builder put this "fibro-like" (NB not asbestos to my knowledge) water proof material, about 20mm or so think, over the wooden floor, which had then a water-proof membrane painted on it in the shower/bathroom area. The stuff, was light grey in colour (the edge may even have been tongue and groove), would not bend, and was quite impervious to water logged type issues. I cut this to length, and the extra width, which was wider than the stands width, I let sit out the back. The 4’8” tank seems none the worse for it. I expect others here can name this product if you wish to chase it down.

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Fiber cement sheeting nickname fibro.

A thinner grade is usually used to line the eaves on homes.

Usually used on first floors in wet areas.

Also used as renovation solutions in wet areas.

To buy in standard sizes, it's super duper heavy,,, and very expensive.

Some people can only go so far in some situations,,, making do with what one has (improvising).

After all everyone has different depth pockets.

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Thanks guys. And I contacted the person about getting the correct width stands. If not prob back to square 1. On thay note anyone selling racking that will suit tanks this size:)

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