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UV Sterilisers


JamesF

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Is anyone using these on there tang or malawi setups?

I have been doing a little bit of research on them, just because I don't know much about them and have also heard apart from clarifying water, they reduce nitrates, parasites and kill off algae, etc.

So I guess it's can just be another safe guard for the fish, especially when purchasing rarer, more expensive wild caughts, etc.

So I have thought of possibly adding one to one of my Zaire frontosa tanks, one of which I have slightly higher nitrate levels, and being close to a window it has a bit of algae growth at times.

Just curious on whether anyone has had good results with these units, and whether you think they are a good investment? or are they just overkill, and not a necessity?

Cheers

James

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The UV steriliser will remove algae, but only remove algae which is floating in the water (ie. green water). If the algae you have problems with is growing on the glass or tank ornaments the UV steriliser won't have any impact.

I'm not sure about reducing nitrates though...

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Spedwards is correct.

The UV will do absolutely zero for nitrates.

In fact, in microscopic minuscule it will increase nitrate because it's killing the algae that would otherwise consume the nitrate.

Tanks near windows will always be a ongoing problem.

Extra water changes keeping nitrates down will deter algae growth as nitrate is algae food.

The nitrate with extra light is inviting the algae.

I suggest these:

Still get uv as it does contribute to helping and are cheap.

Blank of the tank side facing the window using black book contact plastic cover.

Increase water changes.

Keep your tank lights of and only put on at end of day when after coming home from work or when viewing.

All this will give you a definite different.

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Obviously info that I had read is incorrect about reducing nitrates, etc.

I do plenty of water changes and clean the algae from the glass every month or so, just always looking for others ways to cut down on time spent on cleaning,

Thanks for the info.

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Nitrate reactors work only in optimum conditional requirements,,, and when it does work the reduction is so minimal it's not worth it.

The biggest no no for low maintenance tanks are natural sunlight,,, even if it's not direct light..

My display is plumbed directly into scheme supply and gets a third water change every day.

Lol, my tank doesn't even know what algae is and it's ten years old with undirect sunlight,,,, 2500 liter.

I have a Uv light also..

Obviously my nitrates stay low ISH but I have never seen a more heavily stocked tank than mine,,, not even close.

Extra advantage to nitrate reduction is water change instantly after feeding every time as I do.

The instant ammonia that's present after feeding before it gets converted is actually mostly removed only leaving a little ammonia to get converted to the final stage of nitrate.

There are medias that extract nitrate, but then it's extra maintenance to recharge them all the time as they become spent to quickly.

You cannot have your cake and eat it,,, I'm afraid to say.

More fish = more work or smarter planning.

Less fish = less work.

This is what we call the bio-load.

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Nitrate reactors work only in optimum conditional requirements,,, and when it does work the reduction is so minimal it's not worth it.

The biggest no no for low maintenance tanks are natural sunlight,,, even if it's not direct light..

My display is plumbed directly into scheme supply and gets a third water change every day.

Lol, my tank doesn't even know what algae is and it's ten years old with undirect sunlight,,,, 2500 liter.

I have a Uv light also..

Obviously my nitrates stay low ISH but I have never seen a more heavily stocked tank than mine,,, not even close.

Extra advantage to nitrate reduction is water change instantly after feeding every time as I do.

The instant ammonia that's present after feeding before it gets converted is actually mostly removed only leaving a little ammonia to get converted to the final stage of nitrate.

There are medias that extract nitrate, but then it's extra maintenance to recharge them all the time as they become spent to quickly.

You cannot have your cake and eat it,,, I'm afraid to say.

More fish = more work or smarter planning.

Less fish = less work.

This is what we call the bio-load.

Your telling me you change 833L a day!!!!??? You must be an aeronautical engineer to be able to afford the water bill...??

That's seriously not practical for 99.99% of people and not worth it for the extra fish you may be able to keep or the absence of algae. I'd rather clean it.

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Water is not gold,,,, it's pretty cheap and small amount still when talking fish tank volumes.

I'm living single.

Changing 1/3 water every day is roughly equivelant to a person in the family having a 20 minute minute shower.

But lol,,, that's nothing, im not big noting myself here, just saying how it is.

My breed room is 38000 liters and outdoor heated grow ponds are 20000 liters and I use to water change that via scheme water every third day,,,,,, and jeez, yeah $1200 - $1400 water bills.

But some time ago I installed a bore pump,,,, and was blessed by mother nature with this spot on water for Malawi and tang fish with no water mods needed,,,,, Americans breed in it to.

The really relied upon now, and now I have a 30000 liter barramundi growout to take them from 3cm to 12cm for suburban aquaponics supply.

I now also have two large ponds, one for koi and one for goldfish.

All this is bore water,,,, but the indoor 2500 liter display is still on scheme,,, the scheme is spot on water for Malawi to.

My 2500 liter could be the most heavily stocked in oz with five filters running,,,, all fish are huge, grow fast and healthy.

Should I not water change for a few days,,,, I can tell through the fishes body language they are feeling uncomfortable.

Power bills are 2.5k, but considering the scale of things,,, it's unbelievablely economical.

This is all run for profit and on sheer passion.

A aeronautical engineer I'm not,,, I run a carpentry business in the new home building industry,,, and I guess I'm not short of a dollar.

Living the dream.

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Oh, lol I see now, I was completely lost.

I have limestone caves deep down underneath with a semi hard ph 7.8 aquifer.

No oxidizing ion that turns brown.

Basically artisan water from limestone underground cabins.

I think aquifer and artisan are different depth levels, but it's enough for a rough idea.

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