jimlad74 Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 I have an Aqua one AR850 that I used many years ago as a community tank. When the last fish in it died, I had it professionally cleaned out and stored it for about 18 months before I decided to break it out of retirement about 8 weeks ago and start a chiclid tank. (Still has the original trickle filter running)I bought gravel, coral sand, lava rock and prepared the tank as you normally would when starting a new aquarium (i.e. adding chlorine neutraliser, aquarium salt and that API chemical to kick off the good bacteria) I let it cycle for a week, tested the water and everything was fine except for a slight trace of ammonia. I bought 8 electric yellows and blues (admittedly this was a mistake... I should have waited longer for the tank to finish cycling!) and the ammonia levels and nitrite levels skyrocketed! Naturally, despite frequent water changes and adding that chemical stuff to speed up the good bactria development, all the fish died one by one.I started again, did a 50% water change, bought some new ceramic noodles (made sure I kept some of my old ones with them for the old bacteria to migrate across) bought some porous rock filter media and also some aqua one zeolite and put them in both trays of the filter.I tested the water daily and waited until the ammonia and nitrite levels were down to zero, and the nitrate levels were at an acceptable level. I don't know what "acceptable level" for nitates are in your books, however according to the literature supplied freshwater master test kit that I bought, anything 40ppm of Nitrate or less is considered safe for fish? My Nitrate level was 20ppm, hence I decided to go and buy some more chiclids (Only 5 this time) I bought 3 electic yellows and 2 Kribensis, put them in the aquarium Sunday two weeks ago, By the following Tuesday evening, all but two were dead. I tested the water again and the Nitrate levels had risen to 60ppm, yet the ammonia and nitrite levels were zero. Surely Niitrate levels of this nature wouldn't kill fish so quickly??Is it possible for water heaters to run really hot? I bought an Aqua One digital thermometer a week ago and the water temp is 29.5 c and that's with the aquarium heater on the lowest setting and the thermometer at the other end of the tank! (wound down to 21 c!)The additives are all brand new and the PH is constantly 8.0 (I have coral sand as a buffer)Is it possible that it may be a combination of the heater needing replacing and the original trickle filter being past it's prime? Temp is still 29.5 -29.8 degrees with the heater being adusted to 21 degrees at the other end of the tank. Do AR 850's have high temps because they are an enclosed system? Maybe it's better to get rid of the trickle filter and overhead lights and invest in some after market overhead lights that will clamp on to the tank and also a good cannister filter? At least that way, it would allow air circulation on the water's surfaceAlso after a recent water change last night, Nitates are still 40-60 ppm with no sign of abating? Still have one electric yellow left and he's fighting fit surprisingly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 Hi Jimlad,If your heater is keeping the temp that high, but set lower, it is malfunctioning. Temps that high with stress your fish and can certainly cause deaths. The hoods on those tanks do retain heat very well, but I doubt it would heat your tank to that extent.Andrew. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phenomena Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 Agree with Andrew. Can you tell if the heater is still on when the temp goes above what you set? What brand and how many watts? Some heaters can be calibrated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimlad74 Posted October 20, 2012 Author Share Posted October 20, 2012 The Temp of the Aquarium has never been below 29 degrees yet the heater does come on during these times, so it must be faulty. I'll have to replace it.To be honest I have no idea as to the brand and wattage, though I suspect it may be an Aqua One, as it came with the Aquarium and Aquarium cabinet as a package deal, mind you it is at least 5 years old, if not more so.Can anyone reccomend a good brand of Aquarium Heater? Have been looking at the Eheim Jager 200W Heater, and it sounds pretty good... German made, three year warranty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 To be very honest, I would not look past either Sera or Jager heaters. They are not that much more expensive, for the quality you get. Both are made in Germany and of high quality materials and shockproof glass. Jagers come with a 3yr warranty and Sera comes with 5yr warranty plus free heater guard.It is for this reason that I only stock the two brands mentioned above in my shop. I just don't believe in selling sub-standard garbage to you good people. lolAndrew. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimlad74 Posted October 20, 2012 Author Share Posted October 20, 2012 Thanks Andrew, will look into the other brand as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Link2Hell Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 Hi Jim and welcomethe worst part of starting from scratch is the time it takes for the filter to matureyou can ask if there is anyone one in your area that could give some filter mattingfrom a working tank to give your system a kick ...... plenty of good people on herethat would be willing to helpbetween the new tank syndrome (NTS) and the temp the tank was running is the answerto the problem also the O2 level of the water would be downchange out the heater, score some live filter media will get things on the right trackI usually will buy a couple of uncoloured goldfish or some guppies (have plenty on hand)as starters for a new tank even if using old filter media in the filtera sump is also a good place to store some sponge filters for emergency tank starts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E4G13M4N Posted October 21, 2012 Share Posted October 21, 2012 between the new tank syndrome (NTS) and the temp the tank was running is the answerto the problem also the O2 level of the water would be downMy thoughts as well combination of the 3.Follow the above if you can get hands on any media, also Seachem Stability IMO works better than 90% of other brands used everyday for 10 days or so.also Lysofos works a treat as well (powder form), i usually combine the 2 when starting new tanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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