auritus Posted May 3, 2010 Share Posted May 3, 2010 Nathan the pic looks like the blue juvenile/female pattern P. lombardoi males change colour and go yellow Chris Yep thats the one that gets my vote Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CThompson Posted May 3, 2010 Share Posted May 3, 2010 Nobody has pointed out the fact that african cichlids require a high pH where as you stated your pH is neutral. You mentioned getting salts but not what you pushed the pH up to. In addition, just to make sure it is understood as I didn't see it brought up, your tank has NOT cycled, so hold off on buying more fish (you didn't say you intended this but it is not a great leap on my part) till the tank has cycled (6-8 weeks). Track the ammonia and nitrite spikes with test kits. Welcome to ACE Craig Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathan Posted May 4, 2010 Author Share Posted May 4, 2010 I actually said that the pH from my tap water is neutral and that I found it strange that the water in the tank had already gone to a pH of 7.6 with out the addition of any conditioning! The pH now is at 7.5, I realise this is still a little low but within acceptable limits which I believe is between 7.5 and 8.2, the GH is around 300ppm water temp is 26 degrees C, I realise the tank hasn't cycled fully yet but I would think that it would be a lot quicker then usual as the substrate/filter ect were in a functional aquarium and only just dismantled prior to me purchasing it and the substrate and filter were kept moist, I will be increasing my stock 2 fish a week with weekly 1/3 water changes for the next month and keeping a very close eye on all water parametres. I obviously took in water samples to my local specialist prior to any purchase of fish which was also stated above. Cheers Nathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mathobes Posted May 4, 2010 Share Posted May 4, 2010 I actually said that the pH from my tap water is neutral and that I found it strange that the water in the tank had already gone to a pH of 7.6 with out the addition of any conditioning! The pH now is at 7.5, I realise this is still a little low but within acceptable limits which I believe is between 7.5 and 8.2, the GH is around 300ppm water temp is 26 degrees C, I realise the tank hasn't cycled fully yet but I would think that it would be a lot quicker then usual as the substrate/filter ect were in a functional aquarium and only just dismantled prior to me purchasing it and the substrate and filter were kept moist, I will be increasing my stock 2 fish a week with weekly 1/3 water changes for the next month and keeping a very close eye on all water parametres. I obviously took in water samples to my local specialist prior to any purchase of fish which was also stated above. Cheers Nathan Sounds like your on top of things, just gotta get your ph up gradually. I keep my malawi tank at 8.2. I keep gh at 240 and kh at 190. As long as you keep a close look at your parameters and act apon any spikes you should be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathan Posted May 4, 2010 Author Share Posted May 4, 2010 Just a quick question regarding water changes, is it required that the water be treated prior to it been put in the tank or can you just use the hose and treat the replaced water once in, I realise that you only have to treat the amount of litres that have been replaced as the salts/minerals ect do not evapourate, When I had my gold fish setup I just used the hose to replace the water then treated it once replaced but they were gold fish, some home I think my cichlids may be a bit more sensitive lol, I just don't want to shock all my fish is all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mathobes Posted May 4, 2010 Share Posted May 4, 2010 Also you need to check your kh, low kh would explain your ph getting lower. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mathobes Posted May 4, 2010 Share Posted May 4, 2010 Personally I use a 20L bucket and dissolve the buffers and conditioners etc prior to adding the water to the tank. Others have 200L drums with pre prepared aged water. If your using salt buffers adding them directly to the tank can burn your cichlids, I guess if you used the hose and added liquid conditioners gradually while filling it couldn't hurt. The problem is that you stated your tap water is neutral, which means you would have to adjust the parameters prior to adding water to your tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathan Posted May 4, 2010 Author Share Posted May 4, 2010 yeah I have bout a 50l tub that I use to siphon the water into, I guess I could use it in reverse all tho I don't think siphoning uphill works lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mathobes Posted May 4, 2010 Share Posted May 4, 2010 yeah I have bout a 50l tub that I use to siphon the water into, I guess I could use it in reverse all tho I don't think siphoning uphill works lol Well yeah that's what I do. Siphon water out into the bucket, empty the bucket. Once enough water is out I just pour my prepared water from my bucket straight to the tank, usually over the rocks to get any crap from the caves out and net most of it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathan Posted May 4, 2010 Author Share Posted May 4, 2010 pH = 7.8 KH = 125ppm GH = 447ppm Amonia = 0.0ppm Nitrite = 0.0ppm So I think that the tank is copeing quite well for the moment Cheers Nathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CThompson Posted May 5, 2010 Share Posted May 5, 2010 I actually said that the pH from my tap water is neutral and that I found it strange that the water in the tank had already gone to a pH of 7.6 with out the addition of any conditioning! The pH now is at 7.5, I realise this is still a little low but within acceptable limits which I believe is between 7.5 and 8.2, the GH is around 300ppm water temp is 26 degrees C, I realise the tank hasn't cycled fully yet but I would think that it would be a lot quicker then usual as the substrate/filter ect were in a functional aquarium and only just dismantled prior to me purchasing it and the substrate and filter were kept moist, I will be increasing my stock 2 fish a week with weekly 1/3 water changes for the next month and keeping a very close eye on all water parametres. I obviously took in water samples to my local specialist prior to any purchase of fish which was also stated above. Cheers Nathan I agree with Mathods, you sound like you are on top of things. Indeed, if filter (biological media) was still alive, you may miss out on ammonia and nitrite spikes. Make sure you check these parameters before buying more fish. A discussion could be had of adding fish two by two (to limit cycling issues) Vs the lot in one go (to equalise territorial issues and allow fish to start from the same point). It is better to organise your water prior to a water change, that way heating/pH/KH/water ager can all be squared away before it is added. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathan Posted May 5, 2010 Author Share Posted May 5, 2010 Yeah I agree as I will be keepiong a log on what aparameters are at and will also be taking a sample to the specialist prior to any purchases Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpfc Posted May 5, 2010 Share Posted May 5, 2010 Sounds good. At the moment my water out of tap is 7.6 and pH is holding about 8 in tank with a low KH. I am not wanting to buffer anymore for the moment until tank I full 100% certain the tank is cycled. I was 90% certain however after adding fish I have a small amount of ammonia detected. The higher the pH the higher the toxicity of ammonia. To combat that I am adding Nitirivec and monitoring constantly. If pH drops I will add in more buffer in the form of coral sand in a filter sock in the filter. The startup period is the hardest part especially as I want to stock quickly to control aggression. This week will prove if my media is as mature as I thought. Worst thing is I have to go to Canberra for 2 days. I hope I am not doing an emergency mass water change on Friday night when I get back. The good news is there is a small amount of nitrate detectable and no nitrite. I am looking forward to the next two weeks being over. Yeah I agree as I will be keepiong a log on what aparameters are at and will also be taking a sample to the specialist prior to any purchases Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathan Posted May 5, 2010 Author Share Posted May 5, 2010 cpfc sounds like you are around the same stage I am, unfortunatley today I have come home to discover that one of my electric yellows died but I can't figure out why as the rest of the fish seem fine and the levels are pretty much where they need to be there is no trace of amonia or nitrite so I a little worried about the rest of my stock, I'm thinking he got stuck between one of my pots and the filter pick up so maybe he exhausted himself to death trying to escape, I'm little upset and discouraged as I thought I was doing everything right. Cheers nathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mathobes Posted May 5, 2010 Share Posted May 5, 2010 When a fish dies sometimes it seems impossible to figure out why. Is your ph still fluctuating? You only got it not long ago, it couldve been sick when you got it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathan Posted May 5, 2010 Author Share Posted May 5, 2010 I'll test pH again after dinner but I would asume it would be fine Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathan Posted May 5, 2010 Author Share Posted May 5, 2010 pH = 7.8 - 8.0 GH = 465ppm KH = 232ppm Nitrite = 0.0ppm Amonia = 0.0ppm I'm a little concerned that the KH is a bit high it is only meant to be between 120 - 200 is 32ppm to much over or is it still safe, I'm hoping it will be okuntill a water change on sunday Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mathobes Posted May 5, 2010 Share Posted May 5, 2010 Kh should be between 180-240ppm. Your gh is to high, it should be between 160-320ppm although I don't think this would be the likely cause of death unless the gh went up quickly. Ph should be between 7.4-8.6 for malawians. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathan Posted May 5, 2010 Author Share Posted May 5, 2010 Hmm I'm gettin a little confused because I have paper work that was given to me from the aquarium where I purchase all my fish and accesories and it states that african rift lake cichlids GH should be between 300-500ppm KH bewteen 120-200ppm, I'm not doubting you at all but I can't understand how there are so many different values between sources, I have also searched the net and have found several other values from other sources aswell, I don't know which one to setup my system lol. Cheers Nathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpfc Posted May 5, 2010 Share Posted May 5, 2010 Sorry to here of your loss. My LFS reckons electric yellows can be relatively sensitive for a cichlid. Figuring out a loss can drive you nuts. Last night I had zero ammonia and nitrites which is promising but still early days. cpfc sounds like you are around the same stage I am, unfortunatley today I have come home to discover that one of my electric yellows died but I can't figure out why as the rest of the fish seem fine and the levels are pretty much where they need to be there is no trace of amonia or nitrite so I a little worried about the rest of my stock, I'm thinking he got stuck between one of my pots and the filter pick up so maybe he exhausted himself to death trying to escape, I'm little upset and discouraged as I thought I was doing everything right. Cheers nathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mathobes Posted May 6, 2010 Share Posted May 6, 2010 They are the parameters I have always gone by and i've only had one death within a year. Someone else that's been in the hobby for a long time could tell you what the parameters should be exactly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathan Posted May 6, 2010 Author Share Posted May 6, 2010 Thanx cpfc, i'm sure I'll get over it lol, as for the parameters I'll just see how it goes, I was thinkin of adding a few litres de-clorinated water in 2nite just to see if I can dilute the hardness a little bit, any ideas if this will work?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpfc Posted May 6, 2010 Share Posted May 6, 2010 I would hold steady rather than change anything. Swinging parameters can cause even more issues. Thanx cpfc, i'm sure I'll get over it lol, as for the parameters I'll just see how it goes, I was thinkin of adding a few litres de-clorinated water in 2nite just to see if I can dilute the hardness a little bit, any ideas if this will work?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mathobes Posted May 6, 2010 Share Posted May 6, 2010 Cpfc is correct. When adjusting parameters do it very gradually, especially with ph. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathan Posted May 6, 2010 Author Share Posted May 6, 2010 so should i just hold off untill my water change on sunday? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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