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Ick medication ?


Sarah

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I read up on this extensively when I had it here, and found a number of recommendations for dosing every 2 days to make sure you get the parasite in the vulnerable part of its life cycle since the speed of that is temperature dependent ... and minimum 3 (?) doses I think ... reading about the life cycle was an eye opener and helped in the management when I had it here ... I think it was a 25% water change between doses. I dosed every 2 days for um 4 or so doses? To make sure. And it cleared it up nicely with no recurrence.

Read up on it, it's worth it.

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I ALWAYS do a water change before i medicate cause i try to get some of the parasite out before i medicate. Then i do water changes after 3 days and redose. Do a HALF dose if you have loaches, corydoras or tetra in the tank.

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thanks guys and gals ,

i did a water change noted though the one tank most affected 3 days ago seems fine now so i have hesitated medicating the tank again, the other tank the water looks so clean and the fish look good so im hesitant to clean it as its such a new tank , will though give it a small water change tomorrow as my green horseface will be arriving in a week or two

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Hi Guys,

I did this topic for the fish4u.forum a little while ago hope you enjoy it.

Ickthyophthirius multifiliis or Ich (white spot disease)

This is the most common parasitic infection.

This is very easy to see as your fish will be covered in little white spots all over the body,fins,tail and gills.

Ick is under the mucus layer of the skin of the sick fish, where it irritates and could cause damage to the fish. Other infections and respiration difficulties may result from this parasite.

At the first sign the fish start to swim nervously and afterwards the fish behavior starts to become erratic. The fish breathing may become heavy and could hang at the surface and gasp for air. All fins are clamped or held against the body.

Another sign could be the fish starts scrape against the bottom or other objects in the aquarium.

Fish could also show the above signs with no spotting on the fish however could be found only in the gills. The white spot is in fact at the adult stage when you see it.

It lies under the mucus layer of the skin or the gills where it cannot be killed by Malachite green or formaldehyde. After a period of time the parasite breaks through this layer and falls to the bottom of your tank where it divides into 1000-2000 cells. These are called tomites. They start to swim around your tank looking for host(fish) then bore into the upper layer of mucus and take the shape of a white spot. When the tomites are looking for a host this is when you can kill them with medication.

The treatment should continue for 4-7 days to enshore all the tomites are dead. You should remedicate two weeks after the outbreak has occured.

The disease can be treated with Ickaway (wardley)or Protozin (warterlife)both products have Malachite green in them.

The only time I have had Ick I did a 30% waterchange then started the treatment with protozin.

Before you treat the fish enshore that you know your fish as some fish may require methylene blue. Some fish should be treated with half the recommended doseage also. So please be careful.

You get Ick if the fish are stressed or a sudden drop in water tempratures eg. If you do a big waterchange you could get it.

The other way you can treat it is by adding rocksalt or aquarium salt.

HTH

Brett

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thanks Brett

on the bottle of ickonex it says to redose 3 days later so seeing as no fish appears to be infected anymore i could actually leave it for 2 weeks and then redose.

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No, the water borne organism can attach to the fish again (or other fish) and reinfect them. You need to dose again to kill/supress of the water borne phase. You don't want to wait 2 weeks because of this. Dose at 3 days as directed.

Check out the little diagram here:

ich

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My fishes sometimes scratch themself against the substrate and rocks, but don't have any white spots on the gills and bodies. Is it a sign of itch or not? I just set this tank up for 2 months, should I turn on my UV to prevent ick and other parasite disease?

Thanks for your help.

Tony

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It is possible for ich to be present without you seeing any white spots. It is possible that you may have it in your fish. If they are doing a fair bit of the scratching/flashing, the likelihood goes up.

Sarah, do what these people say, redose in order to get the ones swimming in the water, that you don't see, or you will get it all over again.

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Thanks Fiona. If we medicate the tank, is that means I have to restart the cycle process again because the water in the tank has already contaminated? Do you think by turning on the UV can solve this problem? and will all bactery colonies get killed in long run?

Regards,

Tony

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I have never used UV so can't comment on that.

The ich medication can knock back your filter bacteria a little I believe but not wipe it out totally, so it will bounce back. Treat your tank with confidence that your cycled filter will be OK. And that proper treatment (repeated 3 times (?? I think I did it a total of 4 times every second day) to get the things in the free swimming stage) will wipe out the baddies.

When you get in new fish, put them in a quarantine tank and treat as a precaution, coz they can carry hitch-hikers you don't see.

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Thanks Fiona. If we medicate the tank, is that means I have to restart the cycle process again because the water in the tank has already contaminated? Do you think by turning on the UV can solve this problem? and will all bactery colonies get killed in long run?

I believe if you are medicating for ich, you have to turn off UV, as it breaks the medication down. What you describe could also be fluke. Copper based medication should knock both of them out.

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Hi Guys,

I recon you should use methylene blue for ich. You could also use malachite green also but the first one is better. Copper based products are good for Oodinium (hole in the head) or velvet disease. You use this for fungal or bacterial diseases.

You can also turn your heater up a few degrees to help kill ich or add salt level teaspoon up to 2 / 1 litre of aquarium water. Salt is the most basic medicine that people overlook as alot of diseases dont like salt.(NaCl = Salt) Rock salt is the best to use. If you use it at 2 teaspoons / 1 litre leave in tank for only 1 - 2 hrs then do a water change. At one teaspoon / 1 litre you can leave it in the tank upto 3-5 days before water change.

If you have gill fluke there is no better way to kill them than by using Formaldehyde however I dont think you have that. I think you only have a Ich outbreak.

So there is 4 diffrent things you can try guys and girls.

I would stick with the first one as it is a good product for control of Ich.

P.S Be careful and read the directions on the bottle as SOME fish are very touchy to medications.

HTH

Brett

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