yellow Posted January 13, 2006 Share Posted January 13, 2006 been working on the whole catching them while thier moving thing.im getting there but still missed some great one due to blurring Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matty Posted January 13, 2006 Share Posted January 13, 2006 The fourth picture down is the best. You should try it at 800px wide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fman Posted January 14, 2006 Share Posted January 14, 2006 Matty Great subject! I've looked at your EXIF data. The last pic was taken at F2.8, and shutter speed 1/8 second, and ISO 320: At 1/8 second, it's hard to freeze motion - you're going to get blurring simply because the fish is moving. At F2.8, you're going to have a shallow depth of field (again affects focus). At ISO 320, the picture is going to look more grainy using most cameras. You need to throw more light on the subjects, which will overcome the 3 issues I've mentioned. I'm having the same problem with poor lighting, and am going to buy a slave flash for my camera. Cheers, Frank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellow Posted January 14, 2006 Author Share Posted January 14, 2006 will do matty im up for comments as im always trying to improve.thanks frank thats exactly what im after thankyou.with the lighting problem do you mean light from the camera(ie flash) or light in general(as in lighting the tank from above with more lights) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fman Posted January 14, 2006 Share Posted January 14, 2006 Matty There are a number of ways to improve lighting. The most obvious is to use a flash. On-board camera flash can be quite harsh. It tends to reflect off the scales, and gives a bleached-out effect. I've been playing around with using the manual functions to reduce the power of the flash (or you can simply put a single tissue over the flash - haven't tried this myself). Increasing overhead tank lighting is also useful. If you have enough overhead lighting, you can get away with not using a flash at all. If you can get exposures of 1/00 second and f8 or above(ie smaller aperture), you have enough lighting. Remeber to match the white balance of your camera to the colour temperature of your lights, otherwise you'll end up with a "colour cast". I'm looking at getting a cordless slave flash, which sits above the tank, and fires when the camera flash fires. This gives more even lighting (so I'm told). If you get such a unit, make sure it's compatible with your camera. Most cameras emit a pre-flash a few milliseconds before the main flash. You need a slave flash which ignores the pre-flash, and fires on the main flash. Hope I've explained it OK. Cheers, Frank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellow Posted January 14, 2006 Author Share Posted January 14, 2006 frank your a godsent .ive been practicing i just got one of my sharks in full flight ill post it soon thanks jason Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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