huzzy Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 Just wondering how you adjust the flow of a marathon 2000. My tank looks a little like a washing machine and my fullerbornei are getting tail cramps from swimming against the current [edit] spelling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vwboy53 Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 Adjust the outlet tap on your filter, the little tap which is on the fitting that connects your hose to the filter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
huzzy Posted January 12, 2006 Author Share Posted January 12, 2006 Adjust the outlet tap on your filter, the little tap which is on the fitting that connects your hose to the filter ← yeah i tried that but it started to dribble out water onto the floor from the tap i was adjusting....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trojan Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 Increasing the hose lengths (both intake and output works) will slow it down as it is pushing more water. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTR73 Posted January 13, 2006 Share Posted January 13, 2006 Just curious, but how big is your tank? I had a similar problem with a 1400L/hr canister on my dad's standard 3ft tank and we fixed it by adding an extra length onto the spray bar. It was pretty damn long but we just ran it across the back of the tank and no problems. Extra hose sounds like a good idea too - not only pushing extra water but there's an extra total sum of resistance for the water travelling the pipes. If ya know what I mean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
huzzy Posted January 13, 2006 Author Share Posted January 13, 2006 Just curious, but how big is your tank? I had a similar problem with a 1400L/hr canister on my dad's standard 3ft tank and we fixed it by adding an extra length onto the spray bar. It was pretty damn long but we just ran it across the back of the tank and no problems. Extra hose sounds like a good idea too - not only pushing extra water but there's an extra total sum of resistance for the water travelling the pipes. If ya know what I mean. ← Hey, its 215L....just over 3ft long. yeah the filter is overkill but i wanted something i could put onto another tank in case of malfunction. I have just rearranged the coral (dead) in a way that it breaks the current up and provides plenty of cover for fishes. there are a few spots where the current races through gaps between the rocks and glass....they seeem to enjoy sitting in one spot and swimming there little fins off against the current. extra hose length is a great idea...will buy some the next time i put my rocks back to normal. i saw you were looking for sacem in another post....i just bought this one from AOA...ben was great but told me the thing was adjustable, but i find that as soon a i touch the taps water starts to dribble out of them. the other problem i found was the rubber O'ring. total pain in the buM to get it on, and put the power head on level. the thing is quiet, but like someone else on the forum said, totally vulnerable to air pockets. ensure you prime the thing properly each time. Regards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTR73 Posted January 13, 2006 Share Posted January 13, 2006 Huzzy - in regards to the o-ring on the Sacems I've found the trick is to place it on the head-unit itself, then head-unit with o-ring fitted into the canister. Is this what you do? Lots of people make the mistake of trying to place the o-ring into the canister barrell then put the head unit onto it, which is indeed a total pain in the butt. Other way around is easy peasy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
huzzy Posted January 13, 2006 Author Share Posted January 13, 2006 Huzzy - in regards to the o-ring on the Sacems I've found the trick is to place it on the head-unit itself, then head-unit with o-ring fitted into the canister. Is this what you do? Lots of people make the mistake of trying to place the o-ring into the canister barrell then put the head unit onto it, which is indeed a total pain in the butt. Other way around is easy peasy. ← GTR, yeah i had a look at where the o ring is meant to fit inside the cannister and though "no way!".....it is indeed easier to place the ring on the powerhead first....actually i would believe it to be impossible to do it any other way. the only advantage to all this is really easy o ring replacements :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTR73 Posted January 13, 2006 Share Posted January 13, 2006 Hmmm, maybe I got a good one. I've had the Sacem canister for a few years now and never had any probs fitting the o-ring, and never replaced it with a new one - still got the original one on it. Funny thing is, my Jebo canister doesn't have an o-ring at all. When you tip the thing on its side, as I do sometimes to prime it, water drips out everywhere. But then perhaps the design of the Jebo is tolerant of air pockets. Unlike the Sacems, as you mentioned, they don't work well with any trapped air bubbles. I must admit my Jebo has worked out to be a surprisingly good canister (touch wood!). Had it 2 years and never had a problem - no increased noise, no drop in pump capacity, and never replaced the impellor. I must confess, I did have to recently replace the impellor on my Sacem - the stainless steel shaft wore on it and made the pump noisy. Probably from the times I didn't prime it exactly right and it just wore over time. So yes indeed, you have to be spot-on with them when setting them up, but I don't think this is any worse then a lot of other canisters on the market. The replacement impellor is a ceramic shaft and I can't see that wearing like the stainless steel - Sacem must have realised this I guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
huzzy Posted January 14, 2006 Author Share Posted January 14, 2006 Hmmm, maybe I got a good one. I've had the Sacem canister for a few years now and never had any probs fitting the o-ring, and never replaced it with a new one - still got the original one on it. Funny thing is, my Jebo canister doesn't have an o-ring at all. When you tip the thing on its side, as I do sometimes to prime it, water drips out everywhere. But then perhaps the design of the Jebo is tolerant of air pockets. Unlike the Sacems, as you mentioned, they don't work well with any trapped air bubbles. I must admit my Jebo has worked out to be a surprisingly good canister (touch wood!). Had it 2 years and never had a problem - no increased noise, no drop in pump capacity, and never replaced the impellor. I must confess, I did have to recently replace the impellor on my Sacem - the stainless steel shaft wore on it and made the pump noisy. Probably from the times I didn't prime it exactly right and it just wore over time. So yes indeed, you have to be spot-on with them when setting them up, but I don't think this is any worse then a lot of other canisters on the market. The replacement impellor is a ceramic shaft and I can't see that wearing like the stainless steel - Sacem must have realised this I guess. ← im not saying that i had trouble with my oring....just that the design is a little odd. buy hey, if it work then who am i to complain. i wonder if my brand new sacem has a ceramic shaft......im not pulling it apart again to find out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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