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How to filter 6x2x2 effectively.


Vinh

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How do people go on about filtering these kind of tanks??

The tank would be about 648 litres.

A AquaOne cf1200 rated only does about 700lph when put to the test in my setup I did few months ago.

I would need about 4 of these canisters to turn over about 4 times and bit more of water an hour?

Sump came to mind but dont really have the space to hide them under the tank which will make it look ugly on the outside or do I want to have holes drilled in the tank main reason.

Does this 4 time rule also continue to work for larger water capacities?

Vinh.

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Hi Vinh,

I have the same tank size with yours, and I am still looking for someone to drill a hole on the tank for me. I am planning to use wet/dry trickle filter (going to use 2 pumps: 1 pump is eheim 2000lt+/hr, and the other pump is king 3; so if 1 pump dead, there is another one for backup thumb.gif ), and using 1 canister filter (rated around 1000lt+/hr).

If you don't want to use sump, you can use 4 canister filters or 3 canister filter + 1 internal filter (to save money on the canister filter tongue.gif ).

Regards,

Tony

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G'day Vinh

You don't have to use a trikle filter, and have your tank drilled.

You have some other options.

I have a 6x2x2 that is filtered by the biggest Eheim Cannister filter. It does a magnificent job and my tank is way overstocked! (I also have a Fluval 404 attached, more as a backup than anything else.)

You could also use an overflow box, for a trickle filter.

Sometimes I don't like so called rules. This 4 times an hour thing is a bit erroneous. For example, if the tank is only lightly stocked I have seen 6x2x2's that have nothing but "corner" air powered filter wool type filters, little plastic see through types that have filter wool stuffed inside them.. Yep those ones that the fish store sells for 3 - 5 bucks with every goldfish setup. - There were only four in the tank.

And because the tank was lighly stocked you would not believe what was breeding in there! zipit.gif

Before I got the big eheim a had the fluval and two old Sacem filters going on the tank. But due to me overstocking the tank, the bigger filter was required.

Another option could be side drop filters. If you think it cannot be done, I am sure Anita will have a pic or two of her 10x2x2 that had side drops.

So I suppose your needs will depend on what you end up putting in the tank.

HTH

Matthew...

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Hi ...

I'm running a 6x2.5x2.5 (1000 ltrs) On 1 dropside corner filter

Acheives excellent bio and mechanical filtration and only runs on air.

Water is crystal clear!

All my other tanks are setup the same way ...even the Tropheus tanks

BTW ..in that big tank i have 9 adult frontosa and 12 adult strigatus

Each to their own but i dont think you can beat air driven filtration

hth ..Kevin

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Ahh, Thanks for the informations guys.

Amazing some filtering using even cheap air corner box filters.

What happen is 80% of the tank has been filled with new water and 20% from the old tank. The canister has been brang over too with the current water it had in it also the gravel which just barely fills 30% of tank bottom surface.

I guess im expecting a bio spike or so to happen in the coming days but will be keeping a close eye everyday on water specs, hoping when it spikes it will go away next few days or I will need to grab another canister then.

Dont know why at all but im liking bare bottom surface, more easy to see plecos and bristlenoses. I think I might ring around to try and see if a sand that is white is avalible in Australia like I see pictures of some aquarium owners located in the US.

Vinh.

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I'm fairly sure that I haven't seen a "side drop filter" driven by air. Does anyone have any pic's they could post up?

Cheers

Richard

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Here is a dodgy one i drew up, but you kind of get the idea.

user posted image

the air line flows bubbles up the return water pipe, therefor sucking water through the filtering area as any corner box or sponge filter would do.

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Thanks Teamsherman - much appreciated thumb.gif Welcome aboard bye the way!

Matthew - I don't recall them however I understand the concept, pretty basic really. Were yours built into the tank?

So it's basically the same as the power filter versions that are built into the tank...

Cheers

Richard

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Thats not a bad idea of making a drum filter heres the problems I can see.

How to make sections to put in wools,ball and hold them down underwater in a drum? sad.gif

Can Eheim water pumps run dry for some time if siphon out of fish tank stops without damaging?

Vinh.

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my guess would be:

option 1 having a pump in the drum the flowing rate for the syphon hose would need to be larger than pump flow is pumping .you would need to suck all the air out of the drum to prevent stoppage of syphon caused by air in the drum getting back up the syphon hose.to do this use an airline tap pierced through the lid and fill the drum via syphon plumbing with the airtap open till water comes out.then close airtap.turn power on the pump,then the syphon would fill the sealed drum with new water and the pump would never run dry even in blackout as the loop of hose would be full of water and cant let air in.for this case the media would always be wet.

option 2.put the pump in the tank forcing water through the syphon hose into the sealed drum.the syphon hose needs to run to the bottom of the drum, water travels to the bottom then through the first to 3rd or 4th layers of media.yes upside down but all gunk over time sits on the fisrt and second layer and this layers of sponge grades or sponge filterwool is cleaned so no gunk sits in the filter (as with minireefs or cannisters) with media the stacked the other way round can.then air is forced out the return hose to the tank via an exit hose in the side orf the drum,.water will follow the air on starting the pump as the water replaces the air in the drum.it is possible to get pressurised air in the top of the drum when operating if you put the return in the side of the drum.it would remain there (forever).i prefer to put an airstone under the impellor of the drum to exchange air through the media like a minireef functions.put taps on the hoses just the same as a cannister is usually to stop water syphoning to the floor when cleaning the filter etc.

this is not my preferred method of fitration as minireef fiters utilise air exchange better and easier for cleaning the spongemedia.however id prefer the second option to anything other than a reef if i was to put more than a few fish in the tank.

edit i dont write off airdriven filtration either it is much tiier on the eye without power leads and plumbing and works too.put airpumps can make noise.

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oh for holding the media down use an orangebag sack of gravel on top of a screen of plastic grillcrate sheet covering the bioballs or whatever your using.or something similar.there are opinions an airstone can cause an impellor to stop.i note this fact and use caution.i wouldnt set the stone directly under the impellor either,rather to the side just a bit the water will be sucking air bubbles for exchange.

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you originally asked for applications for large filter without drilling your tank.from your drawings im guessing that you are siphoning to a sumptank or minireef type setup.siphoning like that doesnot work as once there is a power out the pump will take the water from the sump running it dry and also this overflows the tank as the siphon stopped when the power cut (when the tank level siphoned to below the pipe outlet).a sealed container is the only way to run an outlet siphon unless you modify the siphon setup.there is a link somewhere to it its called a siphon overflow box .

basically there is a 6 inch hook pipe to a larger funnel that has a pipe to the sump .the hook sits in the funnel bowl which holds water as well as draining thru a pipe under the funnel to the sump.thats the general idea of it,but im not to positive if it can start again after a power cut.ive never tried it so im not sure.there are applications using float valves also.

if you are using a reef now and want to flow to it without drilling your tank the only way im 100% sure of is this.cut a triangle out of one corner and get this bit drilled then silicone it back in.the pvc fitting will help bind it up as well as new glass strips in the top corner of the tank.and id drill perspex triangles to cover and bind either side of the glass.or a larger triangle of glass drilled the same size would surely do if it is cut close to the threadnut .im not taking the miky, this is an option ive considered.

also,ive considered cutting the triangle into pieces and putting them back in tightly less the middle which i would leave out then drill 2 perspex squares (covering the missing triangle)with drillbit wood cutting holesaw. then id have a hole in the corner for the fitting.this could be attempted without needing a glass cutting hole drill bit.not much water pressure to foce it apart and all held by the perspex and pvc fitting backing and threadnut.silicone doesnt adhere to plastic with great strength tho.so the first option id feel safer with.using a larger drilled triangle or square cut of glass over the original drilled tank triangle piece.

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