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peacock cichlids keeping hard?

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Hi guys, last night i noticed my marble peacock lip locking with my jacobfreibergi Eureka , i don't think this will end yet.. looked like a stalemate. But the marble seems more keen to go again for a second round.......should i let them be ? or remove one?

The marble is more aggressive to a lot in my tank the jacobfreibergi Eureka is more friendly to most in my tank.

Whats your take on this please guys?

there both same size, roughly  to 3-31/2 inch size.

Edited by Roos

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hi guys, just noticed  last night my Marble peacock and Jocobfreibergi Peacock lip locking, there both roughly same size, just keep a eye on them both or remove one? there both 3 and a half inch in size. Worried they might try to hurt each other, there both beautiful fish, bit if i had to remove one it would be the marble peacock as he seems more aggressive to afew of fish as the jabobfreiergi is more friendly.



Ended up having to relocate the Marble peacock, i could see a injury coming......they kept sparing and jaw locking..... but the dudE marble peacock kept looking for trouble.  might put him back in when  the others grow to be bigger, i will see.

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In my opinion, mixing the hybrid peacocks like OBs with the pure strain peacocks and gentler haps will always be an uphill battle.  The OBs have a mix of genetics from both peacock and mbuna.  They typically have the mbuna aggression but in the bigger, faster body of the peacock.  That’s a recipe for disaster, particularly in a tank with more peaceful pure strain peacocks and the non-piscivore haps.    Very few people achieve a stable tank, long-term with that sort of mix.    

I personally think you need to either stick with the rougher, tougher, more robust fish that can both give and accept a hammering, or choose a selection of the gentler, more placid fish.  Unfortunately you have a mix of both. 


There are options for tank set-up that can help.  I’m very firmly not a fan of the bare-tank school of thinking.  Theory with a bare tank is that the fish have nothing to fight over.  In practice what happens is that the dominant fish claims the whole tank as his territory.  In the lake a less dominant fish just swims away from trouble.  In the artificial confines of a glass box he has nowhere to go.  In a bare tank that subdominant fish has no option; he is forced to stand his ground and fight, and usually that doesn’t end well.  Even if he isn’t badly damaged in the first few encounters, the level of stress involved in living in that environment 24/7 usually sees the sub-dom succumb to one ailment or another over time.


I personally like to see tanks set up with tall structure which breaks the line of sight from one end of the tank to the other.  Ideally that “structure” breaks the tank into several discrete compartments.  What happens there is that a dominant fish tends to take up residence within a “compartment”, and he defends just that area.  Multiple compartments provides multiple territories for fish.  Providing caves and retreats for the subdominant fish also gives them additional ability to get out of sight of an aggressor. 

It’s also worth spending a bit of time researching the fish you are keeping to understand their specific requirements.  While the common view seems to be that haps and peacocks are open water fish, that isn’t the case for a significant proportion of the haps/peacocks kept in the hobby.  Many of the peacocks in particular are cave dwellers and they really appreciate a degree cover in the tank.

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Thanks for the information.

Yeah that was the second marble peacock i put in, thought  maybe first one was just a nasty fish , but seems they all are .

all fish in tank are getting on well...... borleyi,  Similis,  Sulfur crest,  taiwan reef, Tetrastigma , yellow benga,  are all the  biggest guys, about 4 and a half inch now, rest are all about 3inch. 

So far so good, i hope it stays good like this. I added 1 Placidochromis Phenochilus Gissel, all fish like him, looks to be very peaceful, also 4 and a half inch in size.


Good idea what you said though, about rocks and such so there out of line of sight of each other, i will look into getting some tall slate rocks,slabs.


Taking the marble peacock out has really relaxed all my fish, i noticed a huge difference.


4 hours ago, humbug said:

I personally think you need to either stick with the rougher, tougher, more robust fish that can both give and accept a hammering, or choose a selection of the gentler, more placid fish.  Unfortunately you have a mix of both. 


 Geez, i really hope they all get on ok when they all hit 7 inch size. There good mates at the moment, small nip small chase here and there.

Really appreciate your thoughts and knowledge in this area !!!!! 

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My tank size to be precise is 5 foot 6 inches long x 24 inch wide x 26 inch high, got it custom made years ago.

I personally picked out these fish only because i followed a lot of people with there African hap/peacock tanks  on utube. seemed to work  out really well for them...........i really hope it does with me also.

And at adult size 7 inch plus they look so so Nice!!

As they grow larger might take a couple out, to give them more breathing room i think, or swap afew out that will cause trouble in the future, hope not but time will tell.  18 fish so far with 2 clown loaches and 1 4 inch gold spotted pleco.

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Odd also how views vary, posted this on a american African cihlid site 2 weeks ago.

1-sp35 (med) ------------------friendly Haplochromis sp. 35 (tomato)I would not mix Victorians
2-Electric yellow (med)---friendly Labidochromis caeruleus ok
3-venusis (small)-------------friendly Nimbochromis venustustoo big
4-Red empress (small)----friendly Protomelas taeniolatusok
5-Red ruiben <German line, has more red>(small)-------friendy will see who grows to be more nicer Aulonocara stuartgrantiok
6-Red ruiben (small)-------<more orange than red>friendly will see who grows to be more nicer Aulonocara stuartgranti5 and 6 are look alikes, choose one
7-Sulfar crest (med,large)---friendly Otopharynx lithobates
8-Electric blue (small)--------friendly Sciaenochromis fryeri choose otopharynx or fryeri
9-white knight (small)-------A touch nippish to all my fish,never chases, just goes for a nip if they cross his path. (will get rid rid of him) Sciaenochromis fryerimaybe ok if you choose otopharynx
10-Benga peacock ( med ).....friendly to all bar my taiwan reef and Blue neon, chasses them when there close to him. Aulonocara baenschi
11-Jacobfreibergi (med)-------Friendly Aulonocara jacobfreibergi
12-Redfin Kadanga Borleyi (med,large)----friendly Copadichromis borleyichoose this OR empress
13-Orange peacock (small)-----friendly to all but my marble peacock, gives a small chase Aulonocara stuartgranti hybrid it seems.orange is like red...choose rubescens or this
14-Tetrastigma (med)-------------friendly Otopharynx tetrastigmachoose one otopharynx
15-Similis (med,large)-----------friendly Haplochromis Similis Type – Lethrinops Lethrinuslethinops will not color up
16-Redflame Tail (small)--------friendly Aulonocara stuartgranti "Ngara Flametail"ok
17-Taiwan reef (med,large)----friendly (would love to keep this guy as long as it doesn't get worse with my Benga chasing him) Protomelas sp. "Steveni Taiwan" ok. mine was too aggressive for tetrastigma and ngara though
18-Blue Neon (med)----------------freindly (potential to return this guy not much colour at all) won't color upAulonocara stuartgranti (Chiwindi)
18-Red shoulder (small,med)---friendly, gives my Red ruiben and jaobfrei a little chase. Aulonocara hansbaenschi ok
19-Marble Peacock (small,med)---friendly to all bar about 4 fish, he gives then a small chase. (not sure yet might keep might sell) Hybrid.ok


Oh well,  so far so good, no trouble at the moment.

I will just go off what i see, if there all well, they all stay.    eg: Ob marble peacock caused trouble he went also Blue neon went cause his colour was very poor, no one really picked on him. White Knight went also, he loved to try bite any fish that crossed his path. have a smaller white night 2inch, he behaves. i will keep a eye on him and all the rest.....

just hope they don't all go then left with none :) 

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2 more stocking advice was given to me..........

OB Peacock 
Nimbochromis livingstonii 
Aulonocara jacobfreibergi (Undu Reef) 
Copadichromis trewavasae (Mloto) 
Aulonocara koningsi (Blue Regal) 
Aulocara jacobfreibergi"Eureka" orange
Sciaenochromis fryeri (Electric Blue)
Aulonocara sp. Strawberry
Aulonocara sp. Orange
Haplochromis Nyerei
Protomelas taeniolatus (Red Empress)
Protomelas spilonatus (sulfur head)
Protomelas sp. ( Taiwan Reef) 
Copadichromis sp. tanzania yellow fins
Aulonocara sp. (Dragon Blood)
Sunshine Peacock
Orange peacock
Nimbochromis venustus
Blue neon stuartgranti 
Aulonocara jacobfreibergi"Eureka" Double red
Dragon blood albinos
Placidochromis milomo (big lips)
Aulonocara Maylandi Apache
Aulonocara stuartgranti (Red Shoulder) Habenschi
Copadichromis borleyi (Kadango) Red fin

another was below................................................................ 


Aulonocara jacobfreibergi "Eureka"
Aulonocara stuartgranti (Chiwindi) 'Blue Neon'
Aulonocara steveni "Usisya-Flavescent"
Aulonocara maulana "Bi-Color 500"
Aulonocara maylandi "Sulphurhead"
Aulonocara 'German Red' 
Aulonocara baenschi "Sunshine"
Aulonocara 'Dragon's Blood'
Aulonocara  "blueberry"
Aulonocara jacobfreibergi "Undu Reef" Lemon Jake
Aulonacara  "Lwanda"

Copadichromis mloto "Fireline"
Copadichromis quadrimaculatus nkanda
Protomelas virgatus Pombo "Yellow Chin"
Nimbochromis Fuscotaeniatus "Fusco"
Fossorochromis rostratus
Lichnochromis acuticeps  "Malawi gar"
Protomelas taeniolatus "Red Empress"
Naevochromis chrysogaster 
Copadichromis ovatus
Buccochromis Nototaenia
Protomelas steveni ''Taiwan Reef'"
Aristochromis christyi
Protomelas Insignis 
Protomelas Steveni "Imperial Tiger"
Stigmatochromis Modestus red
Venustus F1 male



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a bit lost as a newb to Africans ,  but all good, i absorb any and all info.

Happy with whats working for me now.

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yeah seems to me what works for one person inst guaranteed to work for another, some are well behaved others are a bit in angry mode.

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