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CThompson

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CThompson last won the day on June 30

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About CThompson

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  • Birthday 12/01/63

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    Menai, NSW, Australia

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  1. Mutual Assistance /Help??

    Thanks Bradc, I wish you were closer too.
  2. Mutual Assistance /Help??

    Nobody is interested?
  3. Mutual Assistance /Help??

    Hi Alan, sent you a PM as requested a week ago, but I have not received a reply. Craig
  4. Mutual Assistance /Help??

    Hi Alan, Nice of you to reply, and offer. I am looking for mutual help, and what I mean by that is someone who wants a fishroom but can't have one. For example, no space, can't afford or other specific reasons. I want them to be able to enjoy their hobby in a way they can't otherwise indulge. Yes this will include maintenance, but also their fish selection, breeding, selling etc. I will have my finger in this, so it will keep my hobby alive for me too. It would not be fair for someone to just do maintenance.
  5. Mutual Assistance /Help??

    Hi, I don't know if this is the best place for this, please feel free to relocate if needed mods. Not sure how to word this, or even if it is a good idea, or if it is workable. So I will try to be brief ; Due to a long term and increasing health issue, I am no longer able to look after my tanks. Truth is, I have not been able to for some time. But my aquarium fish are my first love and I am INCREDIBLY reluctant to give up. It would be like giving up on life. So, I can't let go, but I can't hold on and maintain my African tanks/fish room. I have thought /wondered for some years now if there was a person in my local area of Menai, Sydney who has the passion, but no fishroom where we could mutually benefit from this …ummm…situation. That is, I have a fishroom that I can't look after, is there someone who who has the passion (and energy and time) but no fishroom? I'm not looking for sympathy or charity. Or to hand over complete control of my fishroom for that matter.. But I am wondering if a working situation and understanding can be created from where we can both mutually benefit? Craig
  6. Non return valve?

    Repeat of what Josh above said; the water level in the tank is too low, Raise it and the siphon won't break when the power is out. If the fish splash, keep the lids on the tank. Craig
  7. Latest Malawian Cichlid Aquarium for customer.

    Very much like the aqua scaping, though I don't like the wood in there. Why is the heater not in the sump? In addition, most heaters are not designed to be fully under water, is the brand you used? Never makes any sense to have the bio logical the first media in a filter as it will act as a defacto mechanical medium. Never seen/noticed a huge down side from doing it, but theoretically, a gunked up bio media's surface = less access to oxygen the bacteria on the surface (and consequently further within it) will have = less than a maxed out denitrification potential and the greater the potential for an ammonia spike/s. And if nothing else it will necessitate the cleaning of the bio media. That will mean more work (when the customer was looking for something easy to maintain) and will give rise to the possibility of the customer washing the bio media in tap water and killing all the bacteria... Like the fish choices, though there looked like there will be a large bio load on the tank when the fish are closer to adult (see above bio media sump placement comment). Don't like seeing the sump area under the tank open like that with an indoor/lounge display tank. It would be okay in a fish room or garage. I liked the fact you were going to use the terrestrial plant for filtration, but I would find the light it needs a distraction to the fish tank and fish, as mentioned if set up in a lounge sort of area. I once had an African tank...30 years ago now, with the terrestrial plant growing with its roots in from the top of the tank. The plant got enough light from a nearby window, and was good to look at growing above and below the water. Fish didn't seem to hurt the roots. I definitely liked the rock ttype and substrate used and how it was placed and used balanced in the tank, that took a bit of talent and artistry 10/10 (if the wood was tossed) But for the design of the tanks mechanics/bio etc. ...5/10 Loved the video production and presentation too 10/10
  8. Slate/Rocks in tank

    Hi again, Don’t mean to change all your desires but I am pleased that you are taking them with the good intentions I have made them. Texas holy rock should be okay from the point of view of danger to the fish. However…from a “puritan’s” approach – would this rock-form be found underwater? Bear in mind the natural processes that have created it. I like the look of this rock too, but I personally, would never use it in a tank for the above reason. I know it is used a lot. Once again, this is “my subjective" opinion. If you like it, use it, but as Buccal (liked your above comments/post by the way Buccal), it won’t stay white. I have used sandstone (from my own backyard) broken with a hammer and stone chisel, and basalt bought from a quarry down the south coast from me. The sandstone goes green/black with algae, the basalt.. stays pretty much as it is over time. Cost = cheap to free so you can keep your kidney . Mind you, both can be heavy, particularly the basalt, which is where I came up with the idea of cured silicon "worms" - which takes it back to the question/answer from the top of this thread Why do you want a something to “pop” from the background? Don’t we keep a fish tank for “fish”? Remembering too, a down side of a white substrate can be it causing a fish to flush its colours possibly to try and match its background so it doesn’t stand out so much to predators (flying birds, or bigger fish swimming 10m above them). In some cases, this might make the fish look better, in others, not so much so. I use coral and or limestone sand too, but I use it in sumps or inside the canister filters for its buffering. Normal "brown" or "honey" coloured, or black 1-3mm sand/gravel is used in the tanks. In my fishroom, I have painted the bottom outside of the tanks with black paint, and coral sand and rubble is in the sump. Craig
  9. Slate/Rocks in tank

    Sam +1, Link2Hell, and CThompson like the rule of thirds (just as with photography) I didn't know Takahashi Amano was dead? "but the main thing is what you like" + what is good for the fish (visa versa)
  10. Slate/Rocks in tank

    I expect that it is not so much that no one has read your other thread but more that no one has replied to such an intangible, individually subjective question regarding your decor's positioning. You say that no one has replied, that's maybe a reply that says no one wants to hurt your feelings . I would suggest that you try something a little less artificial than three separate piles But for me, in an African tank, subjectively; Coral+wood = ! Coral+wood+plants = !! I have said in he past on ACE, ages back now; "just because you can, does not mean you should" (I need a stepping down from a soap-box Smiley) Me, personally I wouldn't even use coral pieces. Fresh water fish have not evolved around sharp things = they won't understand their danger. I used to know a fish keeper who pointed out an electric yellow that for a 2nd or 3rd time got stuck in a piece of coral. He said words to the effect; " it was the 3rd (?) time it has gotten stuck, once it dug a hole in its side, stupid fish!" If you want to buff you water, use coral/limestone sand. And if you want to buff your water, don't use wood. Rock by itself or rock and plants. In regards to the light question, if it was indeed a question and not a statement (question mark Nazi), plants use the red and blue light from the spectrum, roughly in equal amounts. The rest of the colours are not really needed, especially green. What sort of spectrum of light does your light produce? Blue & red, in decent, equal amounts? If not, either forget the plants as they will at best cause you to pull your hair out. Or change the lights. If you want décor positioning suggestions, post some pics showing different organisations and ask which people prefer. For aqua scaping tips go to the king, Takahashi Amano; https://www.google.com.au/search?q=takashi+amano+gallery&sa=X&biw=1680&bih=877&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&ved=0CBwQsARqFQoTCPjapYHyqMgCFaNrcgodudIG0g I have seen one by him for Africans, maybe it can be found in the link. That being said, Java fern, Anubis and ribbon grass, are your best bets, with the latter being at least bio typically correct in the lakes river estuaries as I understand it. Big thanks by the way to the ACE mod/s who organised the in-text-box spell check Craig
  11. Slate/Rocks in tank

    Hi, If what you are putting in your tank is what you have posted above in your picture, I wouldn't be too fussed about its weight. Think I saw another thread by you and the coral you showed in your pictures there all look light enough to be a non-issue weight wise. The bigger issue if I were to choose would be the piece of coral above falling and scratching a viewing panel in its fall. The slate if attached to the base of the coral will help to prevent a fall. Foam under a tank is more used to even out and level anything that could cause a tank uneven pressure to its base. More so construction-wise of the stand under the tank, but also potentially an uneven/level/twisted floor surface transferring this imperfection through to the stand and then the glass of the tank. The example you used in regards to a piece of gravel trapped between the glass base and the stand (which could happen, as well as a protruding staple/nail), and a piece of gravel sandwiched between the inside glass surface and a rock etc. is only valid if the rock passing its weight through the individual piece of gravel to the inside surface of the glass base, if the rock/coral has a big enough weight in comparison to the thickness of the glass. 4.6 kg is a bit of weight, and though the attached slate is a good idea stabilisation wise, it will also spread the weight across a boarder surface than the base of the coral by itself would. There may be more to worry about if a single piece of gravel got between the slate and the glass surface. Which is probably more where your question is aimed at. Remember, 4.6 kg out of water is not 4.6 kg underwater, so I expect you have nothing to worry about. Didn't your other post show this coral sitting in the empty tank? Did the glass break? It is good to consider potential problems, but you might be over thinking this one as I don't think you have anything to worry about here. When the tank is 3/4 full of water, and your gravel is in there, put your coral in and make sure there is a base of gravel between the base of the slate and the tank's glass. This will spread the <4.6kg of coral's weight across the glass/base. When there is some real weight pressing directly on the inside tank's glass, I have used cured silicon "worms" to rest the rocks weight on to protect the glass. Do a search for my tank's pics, the photos will be from a few years back (I expect they are still here), but there was and is, near something like 1.0 tonne and it has not cracked the glass yet. Regards, Craig
  12. My 6x2x2 tank Journal

    Hi Rosco, with water in the tank now, have the trumpet snails come back yet? I hope you emptied any connected tubing of water, and made sure there were no snails in there. Or even hiding dry with their operculum closed up tight waiting for water to return to behind the background. If this has you worried now, one thing you might want to consider is winding up the water temperature to beyond a snails ability to cope (something around the temperature of the sun?) for a few days should do it. Put your heater/s in and see how high they will take it, I doubt it will be high enough to damage the tank but keep an eye on it. Others may wish to comment here. I have done this in the past without damage... It should be a non-toxic chemical free way to eradicate these snails and the tank water won't need to be replaced when the temp goes back to normal (provided you haven't killed a zillion snails). For anybody else reading this, this method will work to get rid of snails but can only be used on a non-biologically active tank (i.e. no fish or bacteria etc.). Hi Chris, thanks for the friendly salutations, it's appreciated. Craig
  13. nls grow

    "Maybe shop around and find an alternative product with similar ingredients at a cheaper price?" I expect you will find many cheaper products but none with similar ingredients. "Just buy the 1 or 2 mm stuff and put it in an old salt grinder from coles" This will work well in making the food particle size smaller. I have done this for many years. Do be aware though that the difference with "Grow" is that it has a higher protein content. So, if you grind normal NLS to a smaller size, the baby fish will be able to wrap their laughing gear around it, but they won't be getting the extra boost of protein intake that is beneficial when Africans are young. Will you notice a difference? Put side by side in two different tanks, one fed Grow the other normal NLS, you probably will. But at the end of the day, normal NLS will be a better diet that other commercially available dry foods. "Smiths, Nestle, Cadbury, KFC, McDonalds, HJ's... even beer companies offer less in their bottles!" All companies do this, and while not ideal, there is no point singling out NLS as though they are the only company that does so. Good to see others highlighting this. Craig
  14. My 6x2x2 tank Journal

    I read; "I had to move this tank because we are getting a new (well new to us) King furniture modular lounge", and I thought - "shock horror, what has happened when a lounge takes precedent over a fish tank?". After all, a lounge is used to watch a fish tank from... Then I read; "happy wife happy life", and I thought - "Oh". Or something similarly onomatopoeic. Then I wondered if you have noticed that the fish tank is missing something? Something fairly important in a "fish" tank. But then I thought - "the maintenance must be easy". Especially as there was no water either. Pretty blue light there Rosco (-; Craig
  15. malaysian trumpet snail

    I reread that thread Ged, and I would like to add - I still got no snails (-; Some people think that these snails are okay because being burrowing, they turn the gravel over and prevent dead patches. I say if there is the possibility of a dead patch in your gravel then you have a problem that needs to be solved and snails are not the answer. At the end of the day the real problem is that their numbers just can't be controlled, even if you don't overfeed. Sooner or later their numbers will swell to huge numbers (much like people on planet Earth), and if you can't control a species numbers in a closed eco system that is our tanks (or people on planet Earth - also a closed eco system) they the eco system will sooner or later come crashing down (much like.....).
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