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BigPete86 last won the day on February 8 2016

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8 Shelldweller

About BigPete86

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  • Birthday 04/10/1986

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    Tweed Heads

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  1. I clean glass around sand with plastic bank card/credit card, flat edge against glass & move slowly Finally got to do a bunnings trip today, went to 3 different ones looking for a particular slightly orange sand I could get up north but all 3 only stocked the ANL sands. I guess Australian Native Landscapes are the Bunnings supplier for sand in Sydney. Both the "Tiling & Sandpit Sand" & "River Sand" from ANL at bunnings are perfectly safe to use & if you wash it well both have no effect on water parameters (fine for soft or hard water). I say "if you wash it well" because there will be a little bit of timber, dirt possibly clay, nothing bad for a soft water tank but not good for hard water eg. Africans so wash fairly well if that's the case. The tiling sand is very fine & comes up white in aquariums, the river sand is coarser & is a more mixed colour in shades of brown/tan. Sorry I can't post a pic up but the bags are clearly labelled in the garden section, "Tiling & Sandpit Sand" with a pale yellow bag, clear on the sides & "River Sand" with a grey bag, clear on the sides. Both bags have "ANL" on the top too. To clean it I put 1/3 - 1/2 a 20kg bag in a big bucket then fill with water, whilst filling swirl sand until most/all is spinning freely in the bucket then let it settle for 5-10secs then pour dirty water out. Repeat 2-3-4 times until water is clear after swirling (some "batches" are dirtier than others).
  2. Thanks mate. I think I killed the thread though, sorry op >x< I liked the banter haha
  3. I just want to try to explain in simple terms about fish mineral requirements in water. I know this will probably start some sh.. but take it for whatever you like. I'm sharing my experience from just over 20 years of aquaristic passion First the actual minerals that different fish require are not all the same but that is another story. So, here goes... Soft water fish are very efficient at absorbing their required minerals from the water & have evolved for thousands of years in such environments. Them living in a hard water environment may not kill them, may not stop them from breeding but whilst completely immersed in an "overdose" of minerals long-term they may have problems with internal organs, blood flow, brain function etc. depending on the circumstances. Have a little google about what too much of certain minerals can do to people. When we intake vitamins & minerals our internal filters (essentially kidneys) remove any excess from our system in between doses but what if it was a constant overdose, too much for our system to handle? With hard water fish it is the opposite. They have evolved for thousands of years in a mineral rich environment & are very inefficient at absorbing minerals from the water. When living in too soft water conditions it is comparable to mineral deficiency in us. Lowered Immune System is a "good" symptom compared to most. You can survive & maybe even breed but are you at your best? Tanganyikans are the best example of this in the hobby. Here's an experiment for anyone game who has their Tangs in sufficiently low mineral content water. Trophs are one of the best examples, Fronts & Gibbs probably not as dramatic but you'll notice Take some pics of your little beauties in their current conditions over a few days. Don't change anything but the water parameters to at least a mid level range of the Lake. Bring it up slowly over 2 weeks. For most Tangs I personally run pH 8.6 GH15-16 KH15-16 some species a bit higher but google "Lake Tanganyika water parameters". You'll be surprised at the variance in levels, especially how high they are at the shore with extremely high oxygenation pushing the pH up but back to the point... Leave them in their new conditions for at least a couple weeks then take some pics over a couple days in the same light conditions & roughly the same time of day/night, with the same camera & compare to the first set
  4. Agree with Buccal, I use the bunnings sand both river & play, both with great results for years now. Normal river sand is a little more yellow/tan, can get white river sand too & play sand is always white. Brands change but suppliers stay the same. If you're still not sure I'll be in bunnings in a day or 2 & will try to remember to take a pic of the couple I've used to let you know which are proven safe (in both Tanganyikan & South American setups).
  5. If you're going to run 2 filters I like using 1 as a bacteria house with a slowish flow rate for more contact time of water with bacteria to consume ammonia & nitrite. Fill with ceramic like marine pure, ceramic rings etc. bacteria housing. The other as a mechanical filter with a higher flow rate to stir up poo & particles. Fill with 2-3 grades of sponge, coarse to fine as the flow goes, then easy to clean sponges without worry of killing your main bacteria colony.
  6. Going to have to cut & rejoin the pvc for the repair, halfway between pump & fitting by the looks of it. Like you say Simy not much room for expansion & pvc isn't very flexible. Could be an adjustment I'm not seeing that could be done but looks like it's all pretty fixed. Soph where does your pump outlet lead into the tank (where does the water go back into the tank? Split weir or bottom of inside of tank?
  7. The fitting itself should be strong, it's just a matter of tiny little gaps & imperfections in the plastic thread where water can squeeze out. Strength wise the fitting will be fine. Thread tape just fills the gaps.
  8. Never mind, just looked at 2nd pic & saw it's the pump line. Assumed it was intake. I'd have to see where your outlet goes to tell whether you need to plug it & how. Will look at earlier pics of your setup now...
  9. Actually is your intake bottom of tank or do you have a weir? If there's a drop down section of glass for the water to overflow into the intake, just lower the tank level so it doesn't go over into the intake then repair, no need for a plug
  10. You can get an end plug to fit the intake pipe, if not make one but it needs to be strong enough to handle a bit of pressure. Dense plastic or rubber would be easiest to shape into a plug. Find someone with a lathe... Plug intake from tank, disassemble pipe, thread tape properly, reassemble & bingo
  11. Probably coming from the bushed thread, black piece of threaded pipe near bottom of tank, threaded into hexagonal black bush fitting into bottom of tank... No thread tape by the looks of it & those fittings are almost never water tight. I'm an Irrigation Installer (plumbing without the sh..) so if it turns into an absolute emergency & you're in the Sydney area let me know & I can help you out
  12. I've been hunting almost 2, this week I kinda went all crazy hunter though... Came close to having some this week but now have to import, all good though they'll be nice if I'm lucky enough to get some...
  13. So, I've found some gobies & since this is going to be an expensive venture as only WCs available, what are the minimum numbers of a group of gobies I should buy in hopes of getting a pair? Would 5 be enough? I'm thinking probably 7-8 minimum... If I could afford it I'd buy 10-15 each of a couple different species to ensure I got a pair or two but being wild caught that would come close to a car upgrade... Would love some opinions or some past experience shared Thanks in advance
  14. (Sorry would have private messages but inbox is full)G'day mate, used to breed a few fish (mostly Tangs) & was an active member on QLDAF until work got too hectic & I had no time for forum surfing. Now moved to Sydney with a small Tang community & a little more time on my hands, lookin for a few fish to finish the tank. Mostly chasin a type of goby, preferably Tanganicodus or Spathodus, & was wondering if you had any luck breeding yours? Also after 3-4 more Nigripinnis i...

  15. Welcome to the forums BigPete86 :)

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