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Really starting to think my dominant male can't take a bad pic lol He is a full on show pony that loves the camera. Shame he doesn't breed as well the lazy bugger. There is 18-20 females at size so no excuse lol Enjoy!!!!

I'm going against the trend in this topic. yes sumps are awesome but there are so many ways to set them up that if you get 10 people together you are almost guaranteed that you will get 10 different responses and opinions. Sumps, for me at least are something you design as your experience builds. Sumps are usually something you build when you have a solid idea of what your building (tank system) You also need to realize that sumps are nearly always noisy to some extent. there wouldn't be a forum on the planet that doesn't have a topic called 'how can I make my sump quieter'. If its not in your living area then its a problem that may not be an issue. If you have your sump running in a lounge or dining area then noise is a consideration worth taking into account. You are placing alot of trust and money into your tank builder that he can design and build a sump system that suits your needs. Canisters are perfect especially for a new fishkeeper. you plug it in and every few months you unplug it and clean the mechanical filtration of the canister. It doesn't get much easier and they are almost completely silent. The only time mine make noise is when they are telling me that they need a clean. As for wave makers, some people swear by them and some dont. It depends on your situation. Personally I enjoy the look of air in tanks if its something you want to sit down and enjoy while mechanical filtration like powerheads and wavemakers have a definite logical benefit.

Hi all, A little project I've been working on since the Benthochromis spawned. It's a time lapse that shows the development of some fish from the day they were spawned to free swimming Cheers RonnyM.

When the new import regs are implemented it will be more difficult and expensive to land fish on the list and unless there is a profit at the end, and changes in PIJAC board, I don't think there will be any challenge mounted by the pet industry to change the importable species the hobbyist has no power to push for changes on the list It really is time to review what we do have and try to keep those species going rather than looking at new imports If anything new does show up fine but we have a higher chance of loosing species already here that is a way bigger concern

Hey guys, Just wanted to share some pictures of a Synspilum (/melanurus, which ever you prefer).

Not many people talk about it. But some fish are just jerks.

Guys can i please get some help on this topic: http://www.aceforums.com.au/index.php?showtopic=60004 Thanks for looking.

Just thought I'd share my hobby with you.. just re-scaped my 6 ft tank with some Slate rock.. This hobby is too addictive

Good topic... You know what i think about when i watch my fish tank? Beers usually...

Not so small anymore. Little pigs just like their parents lol. About 5-6cm now. Cheers RonnyM.

FYI - on Cichlids of Lake Tanganyika on FB, quote by Ad Konings response to people's post on overfishing of endangered species. From Chris that owns Lake Shore Lodge in Kipili. Cichlids of Lake TanganyikaAugust 16 at 11:12pm · Please Read NNB!! A quote from Ad Konings: "I would like to clarify some of the misconceptions readers may have about over-fishing and extinction. Some believe that when not the last individual of a certain species/population has been fished out of the lake, there is still hope that the species may recover. Of course it is true that it is almost impossible to catch the very last individual of a species/population when the ornamental fish collectors are extracting fish from the lake, BUT you don’t need to catch the very last to exterminate a species. Every species has a critical minimum population density and below that, it is gone forever. With so many species competing for the same piece of real estate in the lake it is easy to see that each species needs a certain density to hold on to their share. In particular T. duboisi, who shares everywhere the habitat with a more successful congeneric, critical density is likely much higher than “the last individual”. Another misconception has been raised by those who believe that exporters manage their collection quotas by not extracting a certain species/population when they notice the numbers are dwindling. Chris knows of at least nine (!) different teams that extract cichlids from the lake. Even if there was one that would refrain from collecting a certain species/population, the other eight teams won’t! Believe me, there is NOBODY who would not collect a fish so that it can recover. As long as we want to buy a certain species/form from an exporter, there will be extractors trying to get it, even just a single individual. The local fishermen continue to catch till EVERY fish is gone. There is no alternative for these people. Some studies have been done in Africa’s lakes towards the sustainability of fisheries, words have been spoken, and laws have been made by the country’s fisheries departments, but on the ground it is a free for all with very little measure of control. They even prevent recruitment of young fish by also collecting these with mosquito nets in the very shallow water. Dream on if you think African catchers are “managing their quotas”. Regarding ornamental fish it is OUR demand that drives certain species into extinction; WE have to regulate collections, not the workers in Africa. There are about 200 cichlid species and variants that are or have been exported from the lake; all we ask is to refrain from buying a few of these, less than 3%. There was a question about the validity of information given on this page because if it was only me saying so it was not acceptable. I wonder whom we should ask about the cichlids in the lake, somebody who has been traveling, observing, and publishing about these fish in the lake for the last 30 years, scientists who have made detailed studies of particular populations, concerned citizen of Tanzania who actually live on the shores of the lake, OR an importer of these fish in the United States who perhaps has never seen a cichlid in its natural habitat? To answer the question about how often Tropheus species breed please read the study by Yanagisawa & Sato (1990) who found in their study area that T. duboisi mouthbroods for about 31 days and females recuperate for about 76 days before they spawn again. For T. moorii/T. sp. ‘black’ the interval is even much longer. It is possible that in the aquarium, where fish get fed twice a day and there are no predators, T. duboisi may spawn perhaps 4 times a year, but in their natural habitat things are a little more competitive. Also during the rainy season hardly any cichlid species breeds because of poor visibility. So, in the wild a Tropheus female spawns on average 2-3 times a year. Therefore catching 50% of a population in a single year is NOT sustainable for Tropheus." I didn't see many big Tropheus schools or boops nests when diving Nkondwe in the 12 year span from my first Tanzanian safari.If you are keen to visit this remarkable place, Anton Lamboj will be heading another group next year 2016. Start planning & saving now. But best of course is to go with the Ad man himself

Here is the first part of the article that Ad wrote. https://www.facebook.com/pages/Cichlids-of-Lake-Tanganyika/332333576856531 Endangered cichlids of Lake Tanganyika-Ad Konings Maswa Duboisi The cichlid at most risk of extinction is the so-called Maswa Duboisi. This particular form was discovered about 40 years ago by Pierre Brichard near a place known from old maps as Maswa. It is the name of an old fortress, later monastery, located on the shore south of the Malagarasi Delta, though nothing of it now remains. Since its introduction into the hobby late 1950s, Tropheus duboisi has always been an extremely popular cichlid mainly because of it polka-dotted juveniles. The species is very old, estimated at about 2 million years, and seems less capable of holding territory in the prime rocky habitat as other members of the genus. We therefore find only a few relict populations of this species in the northern half of the lake. By extracting major numbers of this species from such surviving populations, we likely push this cichlid quickly to extinction. This has nearly happened with the Maswa Duboisi which used to live at a few select places around Cape Kabogo. The initially discovered population was virtually wiped out by the end of the previous century and after I found another population near Halembe also that population is nearly gone. T. duboisi is very slowly regenerating species that usually spawns just two times a year when it produces on average nine young. The challenges juvenile cichlids face in the lake are such that almost none of these juveniles make it to maturity. The adults are already challenged by the presence of more successful members of the genus, so that over-collecting this species is a lose lose situation. There is absolutely no need to extract this species from the wild as it is bred in quantities far greater than can be found in the lake. So, to completely stop collecting the Maswa variant of T. duboisi is a no-brainer.

Hi all, I was given this pair of JDs a while ago. Prior to getting them, they were kept in poor conditions in a shop and were just sad and stressed. The "keeper" that had them said the male was a dud and was sterile so couldn't fertilise the eggs. Luckily, they were given to me to confirm wether they could breed or not. Even more luckier, they were het for EB gene :D They have become my favourite air of fish and have produced lots of little EBJDs for me Cheers RonnyM.

I showed Lloyd and he said it looked like a snow globe. So I made this lol. Cheers RonnyM.

Cichlids have adapted to live, survive and breed in different parts of the world, in a vast array of habitats, with specialised feeding techniques and a myriad of breeding and parenting styles. Broadly speaking cichlids are grouped according to their location, and the broken down into subgroups based on physiological features, habitat and behavioural traits. Cichlids are found in Africa, Central America, South America and Asia. African cichlids can be further divided into the following main groups prior to examining the other traits; Tanganyika Cichlids Malawi Cichlids Victoria Cichlids Madagascan Cichlids Other African Cichlids Central American cichlids can be further divided into the following main groups; Archocentrus Group Thorichthys Group Rheophilic Group Detritus Feeders Herbivores Guapotes South American cichlids can be further divided into the following main groups prior to examining the other traits; Large Cichlids Dwarf Cichlids Angelfishes Discus Crenicichla Group There is only one true Asian cichlid and all belong to the one genus, Etroplus, commonly known as Chromides. There are three species located in coastal regions of Sri Lanka and Southern India. The three species include E. maculatus (Orange Chromide), E. suratensis (Green Chromide) and E. canarensis which was presumed to be extinct until it was rediscovered in the 1990s.

I haven't posted any pictures in ages. I changed things about 12 months ago, and many of the fry I bought are growing nicely.

Hi all. This may have been covered before and you can find all sorts of info online but anyway. I run a canister filter and was unhappy with the 90 degree fittings included to make a 180 bend to go over the top of the tank.I dabble in performance automotive and wanted to apply the theory of mandril bend exhaust systems into my plumbing for optimal flow. Get electrical conduit. Pack it with sand and seal the ends. Apply even heat (aviod direct flame) on the area you want to bend and slightly beyond ( I used my toaster). The pipe will eventually behave like a floppy noodle. Shallow bends can be done without packing with sand. If your trying to make a real tight 180 bend it will link without sand. Get your desired shape and cool. No more 90 degree bends. i know they sell PVC angle joins but the profile was wrong and I would of had to purchase the jointing glue. I didn't want to buy the glue for such a small project. this method does have some restrictions in that the larger the pipe the more sand you need, gets heavier. But if your willing and a fussy perfectionist their is no reason you can't put multiple bends in long lengths of pipe.

You could also consider twinwall polycarbonate (thread here) for lids for your sump. I made them for my tank as well and had remarkable benefits over glass.

Yep, just temporary. I juice up my designers,, and always plucked these juiced ones for next breeders,,, and always have bred. I know what you mean,, but just making it clear for those that havnt encountered this subject much.Only to jack the females to identify as a technique only to be used for hybrid breeding purpose. I you get it wrong,, then it's ok, as they're just hybrids anyway. Using G on all other species of juvie fish is only ok for sexing purposes, not identifying. My practice: juice up 50 or so juvies, first five to color up put aside as keepers. Next 50 juvies or so and put first ones to color again as keepers. Do this three or four times. Now,,,,, 90-95% of these will be male,,, buuuuut, that odd female here and there that colors fast are the more genetic colored ones. And these females matched with A grade males produce killer offsprings,,,,, line breeding fast forwarded using the G technique. For those that don't understand color enhancers, Super G does not contain hormones Definetely,,, please, no one challenge this, waiste of time. Super G unlike any other so called color enhancers is very special in the way it works. It actually triggers the fishes own self production of male hormones and other bodily goodies that are responsible for extreme color increase. Note, naturally fish and humans and many animals, males naturally produce eostrigen in small percentage and females produce testosterone in small amounts. (ever wondered why some Italian woman have little hair lips ??? Lol). Well,,,,, super g white crane is desighned to unnaturally tip the balance of hormone production. These self made hormones and other goodies (call them goodies to cut story short and simple),,, stimulate the fluorescence colors directly under the scales,, and something that generally only Malawi and very few tang fish have. The G working at extreme outcomes are only seen in malawis. The G a true color enhancer. And works very fast, days, as the trigger process is fast and responsive. All other color promoting foods (not enhancing as false advertisement shows on many food packaging), are basically working by a very slow build up of various carotene complexes and the famous astaxanthin. This color build up only shows color increase signs after the fishes body mass increases taking on these color promoters being astaxanthin and/or various carotenes, Very typical is Atlantic or tasi salmon fillets which these fish have extreme amounts of astaxanthin incorporated into diets. Astaxanthin increases mortality rate tenfold by supporting immune system and working as a probiotic. Once upon a time I was heavy on astaxanthin for my fry growth,,, but since then I use as good alternatives but heaps cheaper. I see to many people so adamant about their beliefs of color enhancers and way off track. These natural trigger colorations in fish are actually supressed in our aquariums believe it or not. Get a big tub/pond in the summer out in 60% sun and grow it with crazy amounts of algae and keep heavily airated and filtered. Grow up some cichlids in it,,, you'll be amazed at the color popping increase,,, almost as if slightly on the G.... (just like my heated 20,000 liter outdoor grow out ponds) The sun is responsible for increased color production.

@Buccal... I watched one of the sub doms in there new tank spawn today with this girl. I think your onto a winner here Buccal with keeping them in smaller colonies.

I wonder how responsible Ad feels for all of this. Having made his living from books, tours, and talks on the fish in the lakes, he's no doubt played his part in it all. After all, he travels the world promoting fish species from the lakes. Enthusiasts watch, read or travel with him, then want to keep species for themselves, which leads to overcollecting. It's easy for him to say we're taking too many fish (I bet they are!), but he's been one of the biggest promoters of them. Does he ever ponder that? I wonder. Of course, I've played my part too; we all have.

I thought I would post this up. This is part one. Your thoughts, comments and advice are always appreciated. Tanganyikan cichlids were considered difficult to keep when they started exporting fish from the lake in the 1950s. As enthusiasts developed a greater understanding of the water chemistry of the lake and the behaviour of the fishes they are no longer considered difficult but they still require diligence to ensure that they are maintained in optimal conditions. The desired water conditions for keeping Tanganyika cichlids is a pH higher than 7.5, preferably between 7.8 and 9.5. Water temperature would be between 23 - 27 C with a total hardness of 11-17 dH, and carbonate hardness being between 16 and 19 dH. The water chemistry can be maintained through the use cichlid salts to a the inclusion of a suitable substrate or the addition of limestone rock features to the inclusion of shells or coral to the external filter. Tanganyika cichlids are diverse in the physiological and behavioural characteristics with each having evolved to find a niche within the ecology of the lake. Broadly speaking they can be divided into a number of distinct groups according to Ad Konings based their physiological and behavioural characteristics even those from different genus. The Julidiochromis Group consists of small, elongated cichlids that normally do well in pairs. They range from 7 - 15 cms in size. Julidiochromis and Chalinochromis are normally solitary when juveniles but will then form pairs as they become adults. Telmatochromis are found in small groups with T. dhonti and T. temporalis normally form pairs and will then not tolerate other tank mates of the same species. Most of species in this group are cave spawners but Chalinochromis and T. dhonti and T. temporalis like to spawn between rocks as well. C. popelini (Photo by Yew) The Brichardi Group includes such species as Neolamprologus brichardi, N. buescheri, N. falcicula, N. gracillis, N. marunguensis, N. pulcher and N. splendens. This group are rock dwellers and will set up a territory focused on a cave. Some species such as N. brichardi and N. buescheri are best kept as a solitary pair in a tank whilst the others may be kept as multiple pairs with adjoining territories each defending their own cave. N. brichardi and N. buescheri are best started a group when juveniles and as they start to pair up remove the remaining fish and leave the pair to breed. Ideally their diet can be supplemented with frozen Cyclops and Artemia. N. brichardi (Photo by Ged) N buescheri (Photo by Shellfish) The Leleupi Group are solitary predators with both males and females defending their territory as they see others as competitions for the search of food. The group not only includes Neolamprologus leleupi and a raft of others from this genus it also includes Lepidiolamprologus elongatus, L. kendalli and Altolamprologus fasciatus. All these species have very similar morphology and behaviour and as such will tolerate other non-conspecific species but will not for the most part each other in the group. For this reason they are best as pair of one species. L. elongatus (Photo by Ged) Reference Enjoying Cichlids - A Cichlid Keeping Guide Ad Konings (Editor), 2002 Publisher Cichlid Press

My new favourite shot Has all but one Moba in the shot lol. Cheers RonnyM.

Thanks guys Chuckmeister, the Geo is a Tapajos Red Head Few more - Geophagus sp. Tapajos fry at 10mm