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  1. 4 points
    Hey Folks, Few trys at taking some pictures.. some Frontosa, Tropheus and Petros..
  2. 1 point
    @crawf you could try Andrew at Labyrinth Aquarium in Sydney 02 8068 4853 he got them in when the last fry came up for sale in Melb but that was a while ago don't know if he kept any back they pop up in Gumtree sometimes or in some of the online groups
  3. 1 point
    Thought you might have! They were my uncles. He won a trio at the club raffle a couple of years back and bred heaps. He moved some of the colony on to Andrew a few months back. Another reason to join the club when we are up and running again, best chance of getting your hands on the rarer species!!!
  4. 1 point
    @boonahsider Hey mate.. Yes they are.. not directly from Jim but F2s..
  5. 1 point
    Nice Tang Tank mate! Are these P. Moshi Yellow from Jims's line?
  6. 1 point
    Nice selection of fish.
  7. 1 point
    @Link2Hell I have the following .. Tropheus moorii chipimbi, Petrochromis sp. Moshi Yellow, Chumbu Frontosa, Neolamprologus leleupi and Julidochromis marlieri.. Petro and Frontosa would go in to separate tanks once they are bigger ..
  8. 1 point
    Frontosa /Gibberosa like the feel of a cave like structure and are piscavores Tropheus like open water with flat surfaced rocks to grazed on and are vegetarian so require a lower protein based food to process through their long intestinal tract Petrochomis are the same NLS claim their food is a balanced diet for both and it is a good food but I dislike the orange byproduct you are left with after it is digested in your substrate and filters Personally I would go one way or the other depending on what species you like most
  9. 1 point
    @AndrewM mate where do I start the OB D Comp are hybrids hence why there is variation The C caeruleus looks more like C spilorhynchus The L hongi is an Aulonacara possible Ngara flametail I have serious doubts about the knowledge of wherever you got them from and their sales ethics
  10. 1 point
    @AndrewM Good work! I got my perspex from an industrial supplier, also 3mm thick (about $125. They cut 2 pieces for each tank, 180 by 45 and 180 by 15 (approx). These rest on the cross braces with a slight overlap along the length. Without anything on top of the perspex (in my case) holding them down, I've found the larger pieces have warped over time. They also had 6mm thick, which would not warp so much. The smaller piece is at the front, which is easy to move for feeding and basic access. As you say, perspex is very light, so they are very easy to remove completely for full & free access to the tank for major maintenance. The lids do need cleaning, every month, as the algae builds up on the underside. But that's no different from glass. I have not found any issue with getting plants to grow - in my planted tank, I regularly chuck out a bucketful of trimmings. Good tip on the sandpaper! I neglected this and discovered the edges are very sharp... The small areas for inlet/outlet pipes and one or two other things I cut out myself. I used a jigsaw with a fine blade, as you suggest, but it was problematic. It would crack very easily, and also it would melt. There was one small semi-circle I cut out, and when the jigsaw got all the way around, the cut bit had melted and it was stuck back together again!! I might use a hacksaw by hand next time, and good pointers on adding additional tape along the cut lines, on top of the protective covering it comes with.
  11. 1 point
    @MFF - I am glad you changed your lights, imagine glass in the tank. I am also glad I have the LED lights, but they could easily improve the design of the lids. Link below to what I purchased at Bunnings for the perspex - it's 3mm thick. I purchased two sheets and cut each one into 2 pieces, including cutting out sections for the filter pipes out the back and feeding holes at the front (I also have some small pieces to cover a central feeding hold - not that its important). I was going to silicon handles on them, but they are light and easy to move around so I did not bother. As mentioned I had to make some brackets to hold the perspex covers. I did this by cutting 4 small rectangular pieces (350 x 50), siliconed 2 of them together (one on top of the other to increase thickness) after a few hours I then siliconed them to the tank on each end, as supports - see in the image. I cut the perspex with a hacksaw, but make sure you run a strip of tape on the perspex (both sides) and then mark a line on top of the tape for where you want to cut. The tape will help reduce damage from the cutting process, although you will still have to smooth the edges, which can be done with some light sandpaper. Also a small jigsaw with a fine blade would have done a far better job than me using a hacksaw, but you have to be careful not to crack the perspex in the process of cutting it - so stable suports underneath like some lumps of timer or something. Also I assume you know but don't remove the plastic covering on the perspex until you have completely finished all the cutting, otherwise it might scratch. Also I gave mine a quick clean mine after I removed the protective plastic, using a paper towel with some vinegar. While they also state the perspex is clear, it is not 100%, there might be a slight reduction in light in the tank (barely noticable) and the plants are growing. The Milfoil is growing crazy, it grows at about 10cm a week. 3 weeks ago it was hidden behind the rocks and by this coming weekend, it looks like it's on track to hit the surface of the water. https://www.bunnings.com.au/suntuf-600-x-1200-x-3mm-clear-pvc-handisheet_p1010176
  12. 1 point
    @Slipshodman - while I remember, I am not using the heaters that came with the tank as I do not like internal heaters. I purchased an inline heater and it is awesome, very accurate and efficient as it heats up the water on the outlet based on the water temperature from the filter - I also have thermometers at either end of the tank to check the temperature. The other added benefit is that it has an alarm that is quite loud, so if the water stops flowing the alarm goes off, or if the temperature changes too much it is also goes off. The alarm has gone off a few times when I switch the FX6 off and forget to switch the heater off, it will switch its heating off when the alarm goes - https://www.amazingamazon.com.au/inline-aquarium-heater.html I highly recommend it if you are not already on an external heater.
  13. 1 point
    @Slipshodman - One other thing, I see you are using the FX6, are you intending to hook up the Nautilus as well? I use both filters as if I need to switch one of the filters off, there is always another one running. I am also obviously over filtering but at the same time preparing for the bio load that Cichlids will bring.
  14. 1 point
    @Slipshodman - Thank you for your message. Yes it is the same tank. I made the following modifications (I am also not a fan of the flimsy covers). I cut some pieces out of the back covers for the pipes as I agree the lids look better when they are flat (it is more difficult to cut than expected). It would have also been good if it came with some covers for the pipes as I have not solved this bit yet - in terms of visually seeing the pipes. I cut up some perspex into 4 sections to cover the top of the tank - helps reduce heat loss and evaporation - these also include some areas cut out for ease of feeding and access For the perspex covers, I had to silicon (aquarium grade) some perspex as brackets on both ends of the tank so the perspex cover pieces sit properly - for some reason the tank does not come with any brackets on either end of the tank. I also found some small plastic clips at Bunnings and siliconed them onto the underside of the front lid and the side of the tank. For now I have just tied string between them, so when I lift the front top lid open it stays propped up. The string is easy to remove when I want top do a clean, but I will find something that clips on when I have some more time. Also previously when I opened the lids, they just flipped back and sometimes it popped out of the grooves in the light box. Really bad design. See the image below of the right side under the lid. Also when I figure out a decent black cover for the pipes at the back of the tank (and the holes I had to cut), I will let you know.
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