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Ichthyobodo necatrix


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<STRONG></DIV><H1>A Disease Experience.</H1><DIV id=Qtextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Auscanuckafishy</STRONG><BR><BR>G'day guys,

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I thought I would share my experience recently in dealing with a strain of costia. Some of you may remember a problem I had with my fuelleborni recently which invlolved this disease and was treated successfully with a course of protozin. This time around the victims were 10 small Labeotropheus trewavasae juveniles, that had never come into conatct with water from the fuelleborni tank.

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The disease had arisen when the fish were moved from their 3*18*18 holding tank in the garage to the display tank in my bedroom, a 4*18*20. I suggest that they were carrying the disease and the stress of the move compromised their immune systems enough to let it take over. It is interesting to note that just like in the fuelleborni's case, it was only the trewavase that got this disease, maybe just a coincidence, but these are both from the Labeotropheus genus.

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The symptoms for costia are fairly obvious. The slimecoat will start turning white and get a little lumpy. Small flakes that look like skin will start peeling off, giving the appearence that the fish is covered in small soap flakes, these will appear on the fins and eyes as well as the body. From beneath these flakes, blood will start to appear, as well as from beneath each scale and at the base of each spine on the fins. In severe cases the skin will blister and these blisters will pool small amounts of blood in them. The fish will have all fins clamped and will be looking very irritaed, attempting to scratch themselves on objects and on other fish. They will breath heavily. From the first sign of symptoms it can be lethal in as little as two days, but can hold out for a week before death. Unless treated, it seems to always be lethal, I add this because I have the odd ich case that I just let be and it clears itself up without fatality.

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The initial treatment for the fuelleborni was a standard dose of salt and some malachite green, I wasn't sure what the disease was, and this didn't seem to work. A full course of protozin cured the problem but I did sustain losses. This outbreak came about due to a very hot series of days.

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This time around I thought the disease was simply some damage on some of the trewavasae. I treated with salt and melafix and let them be. Soon it was obvious that I had costia again and so I dosed them with a course of protozin. This time around there was no sign of improvement and the other trewavase started catching it. I dosed with malachite thinking that maybe this is what did it last time, but to no avail. I started sustaining losses at this point.

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I had a chat with Anita and Kevin, whom confirmed it was costia. After hearing my plight, and the fact that none of the standard treatments were working (including an extreme raise in temperature which is supposed to kill the paraiste outright, but only served to stress out my taiwans). They then suggested to just hit it with all Ive got, which was logical enough for me, seeing that nothing was working. Anita suggested octozin, which I don't have, but I do have 200mg Metranidazol tablets. I dosed them that night with 1000mg of metranidazol pre crushed in a mortar and pessel (however you spell it), as I find they don't like to dissolve well in my tanks. Let me say at this point things were looking very serious, 100% of the trewavase had caught a serious case of the parasite and I was down to 6 fish out of 10. I went to bed that night with fingers crosssed and all my hope on the Mz tabs.

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In the morning I awoke and immediately turned the light on for the tank. To my suprise ALL trace of the disease had disappeared, no flakes no blood, the only sign that was left was the eaten away skin on the individuals that had it the worst. I had lost one to the disease that night though, leaving me with 5 out of10. I treated with melafix and the fish are looking feisty as can be. In fact that morning they immediately started fighting amongst themselved and eating enthusiastically.

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I started with 6males and 4 females, and now have 3 males 2 females, so at least it was fairly even, as I don't really want to purchase any more fish from this particular supplier (a wholesaler, name withheld) to try to get more girls. If I do they will be under strict quarantine for at least a month before introducing into the main system.

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I hope this is interesting and perhaps useful.

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Cheers,

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Mark

</P></DIV><H2>Replies »</H2><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Cichlid Boy</STRONG><BR><BR>Thanks for the info. Octazin or Metronidazole is the ticket, eh. I'll remember that.

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Willy wombat</STRONG><BR><BR>Thanks Mark,

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It is always interesting to hear of other peoples experience with diseases, as it helps all of us to learn by example.

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For those ofr you who dont know, Costia is a very small flagelated protozoan parasite (10-15 microns) in size. It is external and attaches to outer surfaces of the fish including gill tissue. Viewed under the microscope thyey look like round disks that "jerk" around when they move.

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From the treatments you described mark i would have expected salt, mal green and the temp rise to knock them off. I am glad the metronidazole helped you out on the last line of defence. You also could have tried using formalin to treat your tank, as this is usually effective against external protozoan parasites.

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A big "get well soon" to your guys.

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WW

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Willy wombat</STRONG><BR><BR>Oh, one more thing, Costia is also known as

Ichthyobodo necatrix

these days. They changed the name of it a few years back. Everyone still calls it Costia though.

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