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Fish Room - 2nd attempt!


Topogigio

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Hello,

as some of you may know I had a nightmare job done in my garage which needed fixing... anyways, I ended up ripping the entire villaboard sheets down (bar a small section) as the plasterer just could not salvage the shonky job.

Its been a hard & expensive 3 week progress:

- sanded & chiseled the entire garage to remove the old plaster joints & tapes (or lack off in many places) as we thought the villaboard could be salvaged; you know who your true friends are when they help chisel every bit of plaster off the wall

- gut & clean the garage, once we realised no amount of wishful thinking could save the poorly lined villaboard (nails used on the ceiling instead of screws, whats more most of these nails did not anchor to anything, just the old plasterboard ceiling :angry: ; walls not supported properly - butt joints ontop of butt joints)

- insulate with glass wool batts (R4 ceiling & R2.5 walls)

- line garage interior with water-resistant plasterboard (Boral blueboard) as opposed to using villaboard again

- a competent plasterer to plaster the work... 2x base coats, 1x top coat, sanding... @1-2 days intervals, not like the previous con man who did the whole plastering in a mere 1.5 days

anyways, I am at a point where I will need to paint the garage soon (plasterer hand-sanded his work today), and i just wanted re-assurance that what I'm about to do next is the right thing:

- use a quality water-based sealer/undercoat x 1 coat

- use a quality water-based bathroom paint x 2 coats

the reason i need re-assurance im doing this right, is because last time i used oil-based paint, and although I would like to do it the same way again, i just cant be bothered dealing with the fumes, the 24 hour intervals between coats, how hard it is to apply perfectly.

there will be some ventilation by way of a a/c split system (yet to be installed), a doggy door, and through some gaps on the roller door (which i was hoping to leave uncovered on purpose for solely ventilation purposes; they could be covered with a sleeping blanket if i had to)

the tank inside the garage will be no different to an indoor pool, and hence due to its size, i dont know whether i can cover it unless i get some makrolon sheeting, which to be honest it does not appeal to me.

Water-based bathroom paint satisfactory in my scenario???? and if so, which brand is the best for my application? someone did mention taubmans endure in my other post... has someone actually used this for extreme humidity applications? and how many years has it been since applied?

anyways some photos of me throwing good money away:

http://s928.photobucket.com/user/Topogigio82/library/Garage/Fish%20Room%20-%202nd%20attempt

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I can't remember off the top of my head which undercoat I used I just went to bunnings and asked for a wet area undercoat sealant for blue board. It was a name brand that is all I can tell you and expensive. It was well worth it because after 6 years there was no mould at all and my room in summer the humidity was close to 100% so it did job. I didn't have air con so it was very uncomfortable in the room if you had to do work in there. I didn't bother with a mould resistant paint I just used left over semi gloss paint it was fine. The water proof undercoat did the main job.

The only thing I would suggest is to potentially get pond sealant tar paint and paint the bottom 10cm or so between the floor and wall. That way any water spilled won't run up the inside of the up the inside of the wall. It is horrendous stuff but effective.

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Thanks mate, will look out for the wet area undercoat sealer, hopefully is not too much as I have roughly ~ 60sqm to paint.

Also re: the tar, I know where you are coming from and I was going to use a wet area silicone which I believe will be as effective as the pond tar... Maybe somebody can chime in and confirm this?

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This topic might help me get started on my room.

That looks like an expensive fix. Pulling all that plaster down and throwing it away must have hurt.

I am going to use bathroom sealant on mine. It's probably over kill but I know it will never leak.

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Yeah man it hurt... Especially when I think how I stayed up till 4-5am on three different occasions painting after work, and then after 2 hours of sleep, back to work again... Then the 2-3 days I spent sanding & chiseling all the plaster off the villaboard because I thought I could still save it... Not to mention the money i paid the gumby to do the original work - that could have bought my a/c split system

The story of my life.

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Yeah that's right, feed the fish in between sets :p

At this stage the tank will be 1 huge one or 2 large ones ... 5x1.2x1.2m vs (2x) 8'x4'x4', pending price & practicality.

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You work lol, room looks good mate. Good luck getting meng to make those tanks up and im sure you will find someone to make stands for them.

conan

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You work lol, room looks good mate. Good luck getting meng to make those tanks up and im sure you will find someone to make stands for them.

conan

yeah man, my fingers do some heavy typing at work sometimes :p danger money i get wouldnt even cover carpal tunnel treatment.

re: those stands... i hate to be the poor soul building something to hold 7 tonnes of water plus whatever the glass weighs :wink2: ... that reminds me I'm going to have to talk to my insurance provider before i fill it

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Mate I hope u got some money back off the original idiot?!

Following your build with interest=) motivating me to start a fish room=)

Goodluck with the rest of your project!

Unfortunately with the passing of time ~ 11 months, I think I will just be p***ing in the wind. i have emailed the guy and heard nothing.

I can't remember off the top of my head which undercoat I used I just went to bunnings and asked for a wet area undercoat sealant for blue board. It was a name brand that is all I can tell you and expensive. It was well worth it because after 6 years there was no mould at all and my room in summer the humidity was close to 100% so it did job. I didn't have air con so it was very uncomfortable in the room if you had to do work in there. I didn't bother with a mould resistant paint I just used left over semi gloss paint it was fine. The water proof undercoat did the main job.

I am going to use bathroom sealant on mine. It's probably over kill but I know it will never leak.

So I’m really confused now…

I just paid a visit to my local timber & hardware and I saw this ‘blue’ waterproofing/primer product mentioned, but it clearly says for application under tiles, and the finish quality looks VERY rough (not what I would like)… it also says the surface must be clean & free from dust, so does this means I will have to:

- First apply 1x coat of a sealer,

- then apply this blue waterproofing/primer agent

- before applying 2 x top coats????

This sounds like a lot of work, considering its 60sqm all up, and not to mention its bloody expensive, and the coverage per 1 litre is like 8sqm.

What am I doing wrong?

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British Paints

all in one

Sealer primer undercoat

Water wash up

For interior and exterior

For timber, masonry, plasterboard, mdf, brick and galv iron.

Use a quality roller that will hold a lot of paint that gives a heavy stippled outcome.

Two heavy coats.

This stuff really soaks in and also puts a nice thick layer on top.

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Ok, just went and saw the experts at Paint Spot.

I told them I have WR blueboard-lined garage requiring a:

  • Quality seal
  • Quality top coat

For the purposes of enduring extreme humidity due to installing an indoor ‘7000 liter lap pool’ (I have long given up telling people it’s for a big fish tank as they can’t believe/comprehend the size of it, it just doesn’t click & assume it’s only a standard, regular sized tank)

Anyways, in his professional opinion this is what he told me:

  • Seal – any good quality seal will suffice, solvent or acrylic it doesn’t matter; British Paints, etc.
  • Top coat – this is where he stumped me….

He recommended to use, in the following order:

  • 2-pack polyurethane paint (ammolock brand? Apologies for the spelling, but I just couldn’t find it using google)

It comes in 5L kits with a 60sqm coverage, so I would need 2xkits = 2 coats

He said it is usually used in flooring, so it has a glossy / satin look to it; mould will still grow if the room is not ventilated properly, but its washable.

Strongly recommends a professional applies it because everyday Joes like me will leave roller marks, etc.

  • Oil-based paint (as I did before)

  • Bathroom Paint – he wouldn’t even consider using it… he said “its just normal, water/acrylic based paint with a mould inhibitor, and in his firm opinion/experience IT WILL NOT endure the humidity in the long run.

But wait, here comes the kick in the guts, he said 2-pack polyurethane paint could have been painted over my original normal plasterboard (before I organised for the villaboard) and acted as a complete sealer! The money / time I could have saved, man that hurts.

Anyhow I got 2 numbers off people that professional apply it, and when I called them both, they both asked instinctively if it was for the floor…. Ideally I want something I can apply myself as I already have spent enough.

As much as I hate to admit it, it looks like I will be doing the same thing I did for the villaboard:

  • Sealer = 1x coat, oil-based
  • Top coats = 2x coats, oil-based paint

And I have to hurry too, as its been raining heavily these past couple of days here in Melbourne, and as Buccal said in my other thread, humidity can creep beneath my plaster joints if left too long

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Right! now we are cooking!

On lunch break went to see the local Dulux store/Inspiration Paint and had a chat with them.

They basically concurred with everything that was said by Paint Spot (2-pack polyurethane recommended)….

Anyhow he made a call to their technical HQ and came back with the following solution (since I told him I want a product I can apply myself & preferably not oil-based)

He suggested Dulux Acra-Tex Acraprime as the sealer – 1 x coat

http://www.dulux.com.au/specifier/product/dulux-acratex/preparation/primers--sealers/product-detail?product=2401

And for top coat – Dulex Acra-Tex Acrashield – 2 x coats

http://www.dulux.com.au/specifier/product/dulux-acratex/protective-topcoats/elastomeric-shieldcoats/product-detail?product=7311

He told me this Acrashield product is used in operating theatres, indoor swimming pool rooms, high rise building facades – places where you want the paint to last 20+ years with no/minimal paint maintenance… it comes in Matt finish so wont have ‘glancing light’ issues from the downlights, easy to clean, and apparently 2 coats of this stuff is comparable to 10 coats of paint. Only thing I have to be worry about is when Im doing corners I have to keep the cutting ‘wet’ & roll at the same time so I don’t leave a frame-like finish on the wall.

Anyways, so I bought the primer (cause you need to use that primer for the Acrashield), and with luck I should be painting first thing tomorrow morning…

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Lol i was going to give u a buzz today to tell u to buy acrashield, and go out and hire a spray gun mate you wont regret it

Thanks mate... hire a spray gun? I must admit it never occurred to me as I have never used one before so don't know how confident I am in using it, but I guess having met me & judged/seen my poor motor skills in action, and still advise me using one, you must have faith in me not stuffing it up - thanks for the kind words man ,)

Hah ha, that's the very first product recommendation I gave in the first thread you started.

Yeah man, go figure! i was set on the british paints sealer as suggested earlier but this particular topcoat needs its own matching sealer/primer.

A big thank you to you and everyone else who contributed, it's good to know more knowledgeable fellow aquarist and pick their brains for a project or 2.

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So I hit a small hurdle... Looks like I can't use the Acraprime primer/sealer as it won't adhere properly to newly plastered blueboard (apparently a different type of plaster needed to be used) any how, looks like I need a proper solvent based sealer binder... Trip to masters or bunnings looks like.

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