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Filtration: Nitrate Removal: Coils


MikeWs Fish

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Hi there. Is theyre a type of coil you can buy to take nitrates out of the water. If so, where do I get it from? Whats a good price? want to get 1-2 for 120L tanks.

Aline ('Chipimbi'), I remember you saying something about having ones of these on your tropheus tanks?

Also PS: I cant use the sump its too noisy LOL, so gotta get a few smaller ones.

PPS: I know water changes reduce nitrates but i am talking about complete erradication, or as much as possible.

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I made another 4 of them yesterday for $32 from bunnings.

4x10m 4mm flexable riser tube (picture slightly stiffer black airline) + taps

Tee into a mini-reef or canister return

adjust flow to a fast drip

wait for it to cycle

after 8 weeks they started working for me, there's some more into in that thread Brayden's Dad posted

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Hi Ash,

How do you go with leaks if taping into a canister return. Do you just use the barbed fittings or is there another way.

I made another 4 of them yesterday for $32 from bunnings.

4x10m 4mm flexable riser tube (picture slightly stiffer black airline) + taps

Tee into a mini-reef or canister return

adjust flow to a fast drip

wait for it to cycle

after 8 weeks they started working for me, there's some more into in that thread Brayden's Dad posted

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mine are in mini-reefs but I assume you can use the puncture barbs on cannister hoses too. The little push in barbs they use in irrigation to attach the riser line to 13/19mm black PVC pipe.

I have no leaks, but seeing as I put mine just above the pump inside the mini-reef it probably wouldn't matter if I did - I guess you should be more paranoid with a canister - must admit I didn't think of that. blush.gif

It works with that flexable clear vinyl hose and with the solid black pipe, both without leaks, so it should work on the average cannister hose too.

YMMV & all that.

The other method would be to tee it into a powerhead somehow - though this would be visable in the tank of course.

I just wanted to say - all I'm advocating is that the little coils of hose do work & make a difference. they do not replace water changes but they can help prolong the intervals or ensure "cleaner" water (nitrate wise) in between waterchanges.

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G'day Mike

Honestly there is no point in buying them prebuilt. There is nothing to it.

(Just airline tubing about 40 meters of it and some flow control device. Eg an airline valve.) I agree that a normal barb will do the job to penetrate the cannister tubing.

Just regulate it so that there is a flow of one to two (1-2) drops per second.

hth

Matthew

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Did you use the thin wall tube or the high pressure type.

mine are in mini-reefs but I assume you can use the puncture barbs on cannister hoses too.  The little push in barbs they use in irrigation to attach the riser line to 13/19mm black PVC pipe. 

I have no leaks, but seeing as I put mine just above the pump inside the mini-reef it probably wouldn't matter if I did - I guess you should be more paranoid with a canister - must admit I didn't think of that.  :blush:

It works with that flexable clear vinyl hose and with the solid black pipe, both without leaks, so it should work on the average cannister hose too.

YMMV & all that.

The other method would be to tee it into a powerhead somehow - though this would be visable in the tank of course.

I just wanted to say - all I'm advocating is that the little coils of hose do work & make a difference.  they do not replace water changes but they can help prolong the intervals or ensure "cleaner" water (nitrate wise) in between waterchanges.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey guys, just be aware that if your drip rate is too high or too low, you will either be producing Hydrogen sulfide or excess nitrites. Neither of these are any good for fish LOL

There is an alternative. Sachem makes a product that remiovues nitrates and other nasites from the tank. IT costs around $30 for a quantity that will do a 200L tank for 6 months X 10 uses before the product is no good. The product is recyclable for up to ten goes. You need to bleach the crystals and then bath them in Prime to recycle it. I have them working on 3 tanks. The tanks are crytsal clear and the nitrates are at 0ppm.. The tanks I am not using them on look pretty crusty and yellow in comparison.

Anyways,

HTH

Mike.

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how are you using the purigen exactly? Is it in a cannister?

I remember reading to work as a denitrator you need a pretty low flowrate.

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Is it possible that using these products could disrupt the nitrogen cycle? Whats wrong with doing plenty of water changes to dilute nitrates?

Anthony

PS: Devils Advocate here

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Why not use something that is guaranteed to work, such as a De-Nitrification unit. (AquaMedic NR400, 1000, 5000).

It can be computer controlled, so it will maintain the balance needed to ensure a correct balance.

One of my friends, plus 2 other members of another local forum are currently testing these units, as well as a thorough review on a Fluidised Sand Filter.

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Hey guys, just be aware that if your drip rate is too high or too low, you will either be producing Hydrogen sulfide or excess nitrites. Neither of these are any good for fish LOL

I dont like te idea of having to constantly check the drip rate. The aqaumedic model costs around $200 when you get it cheaply. Plus I'm not good at DIY, and dont like the idea of making a dodgy one of these that doesnt work properly as you could either be producing Hydrogen sulfide or excess nitrites.

Is it possible that using these products could disrupt the nitrogen cycle? Whats wrong with doing plenty of water changes to dilute nitrates?

I've been checking using test kits. I have nH4 = 0 N02 = 0 No3 = 0 yes.gif

Water chanes are all good but sometimes you have sensitive fish that wont breed with nitrates and phosphates around. I give them both water changes and 0 nitrate. The water changes are mainly to scoop up crap and keep the water soft etc.

The tanks that I'm using purigen in are crystal clear and my other taks look very dirty compared (water changes 2 times a week shock.gif )

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I dont like te idea of having to constantly check the drip rate. The aqaumedic model costs around $200 when you get it cheaply. Plus I'm not good at DIY, and dont like the idea of making a dodgy one of these that doesnt work properly as you could either be producing Hydrogen sulfide or excess nitrites.

We have been using de- nitrating coils for about two years with tropheus with suberb results. The drip rate hardly ever needs adjustment and is quickly checked at the weekly water changes thumb.gif

We use 40 – 50 meters of 4mm tubing. (Airline tubing or even irrigation tubing will do). Flow rate at 1-2 drops a second regulated by a normal airline valve.

We make sure the return goes into the intake of the filter - due to the possibility of by products such as nitric acid forming. Our trickle filter has had no problems removing this should it occur.

Cheap, ridiculously effective and test kits given a run for their money in trying to detect levels of any nasties LOL.gif

Even technically challenged girlies like me can understand this piece of DIY wink2.gif took a while though!

Cheers

Aline

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I've used the coils on the top of my tanks in the past. It's easy to setup and they work well. I've had no issues with nasties but agree with Aline/Matt that the outlet should be near (or in) the filter uptake.

40 m of black irrigation tube, a power head, a tap, a few bits of pipe and some hose clamps are all that's required. Flow rates are 2-4 litres per hour.

George Booth (planted tank legend) has demonstrated a coil setup on his planted tank removed 3mg nitrate / hour - that's impressive!

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George Booth (planted tank legend) has demonstrated a coil setup on his planted tank removed 3mg nitrate / hour - that's impressive!

This is a little off topic but isn't it unusual to be using a denitratifying coil on a planted tank? I thought most "planties" had trouble supplying enough nitrates to their plants.

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that's what I thought too? huh.gif

interestingly, one of my most heavily stocked tanks has pretty darn low nitrate - and it's the only cichlid tank without a denitrating coil!!

it has an AC300 fitted with 3 sponges (right to the top) sitting right under the fluros - it always has a heap of algae growing on the waterfall in & the top sponge - I think I've got an accidental algae denitrator tongue.gif

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