Ged Posted April 19, 2005 Share Posted April 19, 2005 </DIV><H1>Keeping pH level</H1><DIV id=Qtextbox><P><STRONG>Author: pmc</STRONG><BR><BR>Have trouble keeping a steady pH level in my tank. <br> Any suggestions ?? <br> <br> Thanks in advance. <br> <br> PMC </P></DIV><H2>Replies »</H2><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Lucifer</STRONG><BR><BR>ME too <br> cant keep pH at 6 for my discus <br> keeps going back to pH 7 <br> help would be nice </P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: meesterclarence</STRONG><BR><BR>Greetings. There are many types of ph buffers on the market that will safely lower/raise ph levels. Water changes also affect them, and certain substrates greatly aid in maintaining higher ph levels for Malawi, and Tang. Africans. Good luck, and take care. <br> </P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Cichlids au</STRONG><BR><BR>Hi pmc <br> <br> What pH are you trying to achieve? <br> <br> Hi Lucifer <br> <br> For your discus I would suggest that you try peat, that should stop it from bouncing back to neutral </P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Lucifer</STRONG><BR><BR>thanks ill try that out tomorrow <br> how bout the hardness? <br> is there any way to keep it soft? </P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: danceswithdingoes</STRONG><BR><BR>Use quality peat in the filter (put it in a filter bag and rinse it thoroughly first) I used to 'brew' peat through an old coffee filter to make 'blackwater' extract. <br> </P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: flashgordonv</STRONG><BR><BR>I'm struggling with this too. My setup is about 6 weeks old. GH is 18 degrees, KH is 17degrees. The PH slowly falls over a week from 9.2 to 8.2. Tap water comes out at 8.5 but with a KH of 2 and a GH of 6 </P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Auscanuckafishy</STRONG><BR><BR>If your pH is dropping by that much in a week it sounds as if there is insufficient carbonate hardness, which maintains a buffer, which in turn will keep your pH stable. Have you tested your kH after the drop? Try that and see if there's any difference. <br> <br> If there is a change, that could be your prob, if not, then perhaps you're using the wrong mix of salts to maintain such a high pH. A mix of bicarb on it's own will skyrocket to a high pH, but will take only a matter of hours to stabilise below 8 again. <br> <br> One other question.... a pH of 8.2 is sufficient to maintain both malawi's and tangs, do you think you really need it at 9.2? My tangs live and breed at around 8 sometimes even marginally below this. I realise that it's natural for them (those in the lake that is) but it is a lot harder to maintain then a lower pH. <br> <br> One other thing, perhaps test for nitrates, they will bring your pH down once the buffer is overcome. <br> <br> Mark </P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Willy wombat</STRONG><BR><BR>I have always found that adding shell grit, or crushed oyster shells to your filter, or tank bottom sustrate will help to balance out your pH. They act as a pH buffer by eating up any H+ ions or OH- ions, and stop the pH from swinging around too much. <br> <br> Do you understand what i am talking about when i am saying OH- and H+ ions. Let me know if you dont and i can write a bit more about this for you. <br> <br> Ah, memories of first year Chemistry... *cringe* <br> <br> Cheers <br> <br> Willy </P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: pmc</STRONG><BR><BR>Cichlid_au, <br> <br> I am trying to maintain a pH 8 for my frontosa. Get some good ideas on you link. Thanks <br> <br> <br> Willy, <br> <br> Will get some oyster shells from my mate who works in a seafood resturant and try it out. Thanks to you too. <br> <br> <br> Also thanks to everyone who made suggestions along the way. <br> <br> My frontosas look happy in their new tank. <br> <br> PMC </P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Cichlids au</STRONG><BR><BR>Hi pmc <br> <br> As you are starting to be aware you just need to buffer the water. Oyster shells will do the job, but a bag of shell grit in the filter will do it better. <br> <br> I have grit in all my tanks, some in the substrate some in ice-cream container filters (top method) and in others I use a orange bag with damaged whole shells in it. <br> <br> HTH <br> </P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Willy wombat</STRONG><BR><BR>Cichlids AU, i would have to agree, that shell grit is a better buffer in a filter than crushed oyster shells, (more space efficient too). I think it also acts as a good host for nitrifying bacteria. I change my bag in my filter every 6 months or so..... <br> <br> Willy <br> <br> </P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Cichlids au</STRONG><BR><BR>Hi Willy <br> <br> Yep, and I was glad to see you putting him on the path. <br> <br> I think that a post about ion exchange would be a great thing for the forum, It would also help push up the general knowledge of all those that read it. <br> <br> Check this article I have on my site about The effect of pH changes on your fish. <br> <br> It does not cover the ion exchange at all. If you do one I think it may end up in the Archives <br> </P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Lucifer</STRONG><BR><BR>hi ALL <br> <br> i been around auburn and seem to cant find any1 selling peat or they dont seem to know what they are. (havent the LFS cuz i think they dont sell them) <br> <br> dose any1 know of a place near auburn i can get the good quality peat? <br> <br> thanks </P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Willy wombat</STRONG><BR><BR>Lucifer, <br> <br> try your hardware store, or garden supplies centre. They will usually have quality peat moss for sale at a reasonable price, just make sure you give it a good wash before putting it into your tanks. <br> <br> Willy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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