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Basking Lights


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<H1>basking lights from hardware/light shop</H1><DIV id=Qtextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Tman</STRONG><BR><BR>hello all...

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has anyone had success using "regular" (and alot cheaper!) bulbs from the hardware or lighting stores in use as basking spots for heat? in particular which aussie brands because all the info i have found seems to be U.S. stuff!! i'm looking at keeping a bearded dragon so any help would be greatly appreciated as to what bulb to use . e.g u.v red, 100 watts etc.??

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thank you all in advance

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Trent.

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</P></DIV><H2>Replies »</H2><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Tit 4 Tang</STRONG><BR><BR>Hey

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i always use the hardware bulbs, but not the UV ones, just the norml spot lights to give out heat. For UV i use the reptisun 5.0 tubes. Havnt had any troubles at all.

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Hope this helps

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T4T

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Tman</STRONG><BR><BR>thanks for thatT4T!! my wallet also thanks you

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ummm... which brand and wattage? i'll have to use 2 thermometers to check the temp. on either side of the tank right?? what should the temp be in the basking side of the tank? thanks heaps and yes i am getting a reptisun 5.0

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</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Whiteyyt</STRONG><BR><BR>This may get complicated but please bear with me. And please remember this is ONLY an Idea at the moment so feel free to comment.

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I am looking at setting up a tank for beardies at the moment, and from what I can gather there are two things that can do damage to them Lack of heat and too much heat. I'm contemplating a strange (but hopefully well working set up albeit possibly expensive) being that its comming up to winter it's nearly the right time to do it I feel as the outside cage temp won't get too high.

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Reptisun tubes are Definitely required and need to be on a timer switch (TS1). and mounted less than 30cms above the lizard when it is basking. this part is easy flouro on a timer switch (TS1).

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I'm going to use 2 thermostats but not quite in the way you are talking about.

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The first thermostat (TH1) will be wired to switch

OFF

at a temp of about 50deg C. The sensor bulb will be about 1/4 cage length from the Basking end of the cage around 2/3 up the wall. The second thermo(TH2) AND the Basking Spots will be powered from this, the basking spots have a timer switch (TS2) on them to switch on power to them for a set period a day. the Primary heat source (probably a ceramic or blue or red globe). to keep a temp of around 26 deg on average will be directly wired to TH2 and be around the centre of the cage. The sensor bulb will be about 1/4 cage length from the cold end of the cage around 2/3 up the wall.

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in this way if the cage gets too hot the basking spots And the Primary heat source will switch off thus not overheating the cage and the dragons.

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These temps are just a guess at the moment and by no means final, just an indication as to the way I'm thinking at the moment.

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So in Summary

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TS1 Timer Switch connected to reptisun

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TS2 conected to basking spot(s)

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TH1 thermostat to Stop overheating

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TH2 thermostat to keep temp up

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Power - two conections TS1 (reptisun) and TH1(overheat thermo)

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TH1 - two conections (TS2) (basking Spots) and TH2 (primary heat source)

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I hope one or all of these makes sense.

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Cheers

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Whitey.

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</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Tit 4 Tang</STRONG><BR><BR>Hey all

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Ok, first of all Tman> I normally use Phillips spot lights and the wattage will depend on the size of your cabinet/tank. I use a 100-150watt for my 4ft and a 60watt for my 30inch. You will find that if you put the basking light at one side of the tank it will heat up one side more than the other, seeing as reptiles are ectotherms they cant regulate their own body heat soo they will generally stay over to the warmer side but when their body temp gets to high they will move over to the other side to cool off, this is called thermo regulation and as i said all reptiles do it soo really worrying about thermometers on each side is not really needed.

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And Whiteyyt, wat your doing sounds great for winter, cause from experience with heat only being given through the day the nights slow the beardies down, but i feel that all that you could make your tank alot less simpler.For instance when i had my beardies, i had the reptisun 5.0 and a heat bulb. On during the day and off at night but in a warm part of the house, over winter it slowed them down for sure but in summer, you will still get maximum growth and movement, i reackon that your way sounds great for the winter cause the temps will be up but in summer it will be off alot of the time due to high ambient temps. Anyways thats my 2 bob

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Hope this helps

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T4T

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: PepperK</STRONG><BR><BR>Gday Trent

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i also used the more expensive reptile globe - it was a red globe, and cost nearly $30, so when it blew i opted for a cheaper reflector globe - a breeder had reccomended that it's not worth spending the extra money.

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The one i have is an Osram E27 Spot R63 (dunno what that all means), anyway, it's a basic 40W white light reflector globe and it works fine.

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I think it's good to have a low wattage (within reason) so that it's on a lot of the time and there's somewhere for your herp to bask.

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(nb. i also have a heat mat - but my viv is only 2' since it's justkeeping a little maccy)

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Cheers

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Tristan

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