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fronts aren't breeding


frontoes

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I'm Definetely not wanting to argue, and I'm not being aggressive here,,, but I'm one of those people that don't like being told what I'm thinking or saying when it's not correct.

 

I NEVER NARROWED MY VIEWS OR HAVE NARROW VIEWS ON JUST WATER PERAMETERS.

where the hell did you get they are my views, come on, don't incriminate me to big note yourself into correction.

If you have reading literacy, go back and read again,,,, I said,,,  I narrow down the question asking these first major questions, as the answers from these questions determines the questions I ask next if there's no answers coming yet.

6 bars and 7 bars breed like flies and are not a challenge,,, 

 

If I asked you why are we squabbling,,, you likely couldn't answer, but I can.

A beginner or someone that's learning with issues,,, you never tell them not to test their,,, testing is when one starts beginning to learn and leaves the realms of noobness.

You are now fighting a argument with your successes which should never be done, as every case has a different scenario.

Note, there's nothing wrong with talking about personal successes and findings, but as note swapping and passing on info in the form of stories like I did further above.

 

I don't just fight for the hell of it,,, always if there's a good reason for,, and this is one,, someone having issues should not be told not to test because you and your ways have never done it.

 

As for submersion in fish keeping and your fighting with your own successes and not real solid safe info,,,,, I like to fight fire with fire,,,,,,,, lol,.  

36,000 liter breed room . 130 parent only tanks breeding 136 species or so.

198 grow tubs.

4 x stingray pens roughly 3.6x1.8m with 28 breeding adult rays and many are 65cm.

outdoor Cichlid  grow out 17,000 liters with 70 compartments.

barra growout for aquaponics supply turnover 10,000 Barra per season.

massive Cichlid displays and koi ponds.

for people doing fish longer than me does not necessarily mean they have more experience.

as I'm so submersed in the fish world as a single person living and breathing fish in every bit of spare time while others are married raising children.

Telling you all this to show your fighting a losing battle.

:offtopic: I know, I'll tell myself off,,, but you have to admit it's a amusing read, and it's maybe better with than without me hah ha.

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Marine salt will only raise your GH,,,, but remember the KH is most important out of the two.

marine salt also has a lot of trace elements.

 

If you can afford proper tang buffers then buy them, as Tang buffers are a exact replication of the lakes chemistry,

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Anything that raises KH will do,,, as long as you have a test kit to get it correct.

Seachem products are the best,,, look at how much product treats per liter.

Seachem looks expensive but it's not, it's so concentrated that not much is used.

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  • 2 weeks later...

now i got my kh and gh up (13 drops it took to change into yellow using API test kit) and ph around 8.4 - i guess it just a waiting game now. 

 

Just wondering do you recommend feeding just Hikari sinking pellets as their only food? Or should it be mixed with live food? I'm thinking of buy a brine shrimp hatchery and harvest my own brine shrimp, what are your thoughts?

Also whats a good staple food hikari or NLS for thickness? Mine WC Male is long around 26cms but he not that thick as in vertical.. Mine Mwpimbwe are F1 and they are alot younger but damn they are alot bigger than my WC Kit male

 

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Frontoes, If you want to breed Zaire Blue frontosa, you need to keep your water condition clean and clear. I remembered you bought some of my Chumbu fry few years ago.

Honestly, after been breeding all different type of frontosas, i never use KH or GH or any expensive stuff like many people using on this forum. All i do is changing water and give them good food. Then they will breed for you.

 

Be patient and enjoy the fish, they all breed for you.  Good luck

 

Peter

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Some people say don't bother with adjusting KH GH because they don't.

KNOW,,,,, this is ok to say,,, BUUUUUT,,, this is only ok to say after they have asked what the KH and GH is out of the tap.

ill tell you why in a example form to cut my tech short,

 

here in perth, I live in Two Rocks, my tap water is hard and fine to use for Africans with no buffers, but I personally add more in for a multitude of reasons for better disease resistance and filtration requirements that results in heavy KH depletion.

so, being in two rocks, and as many places around in Perth, the water straight out of tap is fine for Africans with no added buffer, not excellent perfect, but fine.

 

Now, if someone in Mundaring up in the hills, which is Perth hills area,,, wants advice on wether to add buffers in, then for me to tell him he doesn't because I don't, is a very careless thing to say,,, why ?,,, because the water in those hills areas is much softer with a lower Ph and needs buffer.

 

ITS NOT A DEBATE OVER WETHER ONE HAS TO USE BUFFER OR NOT FOR HIS FISH IN TERMS OF BUFFER IS A WAISTE OF TIME.

ITS A QUESTION OF,,,, IS THE WATER OUT OF YOUR TAP ALREADY GOOD ENOUGH FOR YOUR FISH WITHOUT USING BUFFERS.

makes me laugh when people give advice saying don't use buffers because they don't, without even asking what KH GH ph the persons water supply is,, not to mention how misleading it is to new aquarists.

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I just want to try to explain in simple terms about fish mineral requirements in water. 

I know this will probably start some sh.. but take it for whatever you like. I'm sharing my experience from just over 20 years of aquaristic passion :)

First the actual minerals that different fish require are not all the same but that is another story.

So, here goes...

 

Soft water fish are very efficient at absorbing their required minerals from the water & have evolved for thousands of years in such environments. Them living in a hard water environment may not kill them, may not stop them from breeding but whilst completely immersed in an "overdose" of minerals long-term they may have problems with internal organs, blood flow, brain function etc. depending on the circumstances.

 

Have a little google about what too much of certain minerals can do to people.

When we intake vitamins & minerals our internal filters (essentially kidneys) remove any excess from our system in between doses but what if it was a constant overdose, too much for our system to handle?

 

With hard water fish it is the opposite. They have evolved for thousands of years in a mineral rich environment & are very inefficient at absorbing minerals from the water. When living in too soft water conditions it is comparable to mineral deficiency in us. Lowered Immune System is a "good" symptom compared to most. You can survive & maybe even breed but are you at your best?

 

Tanganyikans are the best example of this in the hobby.

Here's an experiment for anyone game who has their Tangs in sufficiently low mineral content water. Trophs are one of the best examples, Fronts & Gibbs probably not as dramatic but you'll notice :)

 

Take some pics of your little beauties in their current conditions over a few days. Don't change anything but the water parameters to at least a mid level range of the Lake. Bring it up slowly over 2 weeks. For most Tangs I personally run pH 8.6 GH15-16 KH15-16 some species a bit higher but google "Lake Tanganyika water parameters". You'll be surprised at the variance in levels, especially how high they are at the shore with extremely high oxygenation pushing the pH up but back to the point...

Leave them in their new conditions for at least a couple weeks then take some pics over a couple days in the same light conditions & roughly the same time of day/night, with the same camera & compare to the first set ;)

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Couldn't have said it better myself,, well said mate.

And yes, I noticed this with my G.kipilli,, the blue was amazing once I bought KH up to 12, after it was usually 7, but freaked when I noticed it was 6,,, from that day on Ive always focused on GH and KH.

My tap water supply I had tested and it has a lot of trace elements and other goodies to, but I make my own buffers.

 

I use to be one of those people that use to preach buffers aren't needed,,, but over time as a tank or system becomes very established with matured fish,, the matured fish actually don't handle lower KH as well as juveniles.

 

If one isn't a buffer user, and his fish aren't breeding and he's doing most other things right,,, then why wouldn't one focus on KH and GH.

As big Pete said, the color change is amazing, even if you think your fish are already pretty colorful.

To me, bright sharp colors means breeding time,,, and it can even be the difference in someone looking at your fish and saying they are top shelf,,, with this remark likely not to be said with lower KH resulting in lesser color luster.

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i have skimmed through the posts quickly and didnt really stop to see if anyone has asked how long does lighting stay on for or how much water change is done weekly.or have you tried the old move the tank decor around in the dark.not completely dark just light enough to see.or the other trick of feeding them as the water change is going on.

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