gianniz Posted October 24, 2008 Share Posted October 24, 2008 ok i bought 12 neon tetra in a 4footer in a tanganikan condition (though after todays test, its more like malawi ph 8) I notice 2 of the neons have 2 little whitespots on them. I read up heaps on whitespots and so far it seems the best way to get rid off them is through natural way. Raising the temperature to 30 degrees will stop them from thriving and 32 i think will kill it. I had my temperature raised to 28 and over night I raised it to 30. I am thinking about leaving it as 30 and monitor it carefully. these are the following fish i have in the tank, all are 3-5cm -9 bristlenoses (pep and albino long) -4 leleupi -3 black occies (bought them yesterday) -2 parkistani loach -2 Callochromis pleurospilus -1 spiny eel -1 eel tail catfish (4cm!!!!!!!) it looks more like a tadpole everyone of the fish are doing really good, healthy and eating well, great colours etc, anyone else experience having to raise the temperature due to whitespot? how did the fish go? reason I ask, even though I said the fish are fine, is due to the fact that I need to keep this temperature for a week or two, just to make sure I get rid off it for good. thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wolften Posted October 24, 2008 Share Posted October 24, 2008 ...raising the temp that much then the water needs oxygen...ie lotsa bubbles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ziad Posted October 24, 2008 Share Posted October 24, 2008 I have had the temp to 32 for a few days to treat white spot with no prob. beyond 36 (it was a really hot weekend!) and fish start to die. good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gianniz Posted October 24, 2008 Author Share Posted October 24, 2008 ok i will make sure i keep the temp in control at 30-31 (two different thermometer). oxygen should be fine as I have that long tube of bubbles plus the 4 footer has two 1200litre canister filter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lacichlid Posted October 24, 2008 Share Posted October 24, 2008 Hi, may not be whitespot, Tetra's prefer soft water and your PH could be a bit high for them, it may burn their skin if been injured before, high temperature may be even worse, add some driftwood with anubias, might solve the problem or any other plant should work as well. (im worried about your catfish, with the high PH and temperature) Cheers, Phong Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gianniz Posted October 24, 2008 Author Share Posted October 24, 2008 hey phong, thanks for your reply. I am constantly monitoring them (unfortunately I had to resign from work recently after coming back from a long holiday, so I am currently unemployeed ) as i have a lot of spare time. hey albinos are all dead! kidding. they are doing super good. I might come around and get 3 more but if all 6 then turn out to be boys, I wanna do some wife swapping lol hey your leleupi are amazing, such brilliant colours. i have whitespots (i can see it on the tail as well plus i can see 2 little whitespot on my pakistani. temp i think is 30-31 degrees and stable. now the question is should i do minimum feeding during this high temp? or more feeding? (i know high temp will speed up metabolism but the fish have the flue) oh ph i want to keep it around 8-8.5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gianniz Posted October 24, 2008 Author Share Posted October 24, 2008 hey Ziad so having the temp high will kill off all the ick for good? I was told to maintain this temp for 10 days or so. can someone back this up? someone who actually have done this method thanks everyone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joel Posted October 24, 2008 Share Posted October 24, 2008 Hey Gianniz, Firstly, do I read correctly? Do you have Neon Tetra in the same tank as Leleupi & Pluerospillus? I would worry more about them than the whitespot. Anyway, if it were my tank, I would: - Buy an Ich medication and treat the tank accordingly (also keeping in mind that you have some scaleless fish) - Raise the temp to around 30 - Do 20% water change daily - Feed fish sparingly (maybe every second day) I would do this for at least a week, and then decide wether to continue for another week based on their condition. Goodluck Cheers Joel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rod54 Posted October 24, 2008 Share Posted October 24, 2008 I agree with Joel.... Just to clarify.....raising temp WILL NOT KILL ICH It simply quickens the life cycle....so it gets to the free swimming stage quicker You cant kill it while it is a cyst on the fish You can only kill(with medication) it at the free swimming stage Sorry....Neons will be feeder fish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ziad Posted October 24, 2008 Share Posted October 24, 2008 hey Ziad so having the temp high will kill off all the ick for good? I was told to maintain this temp for 10 days or so. can someone back this up? someone who actually have done this method thanks everyone raising the temp will quicken the cycle of ich but I believe that you can also kill white spot with just temp if you go high enough (I think it is something like 31 or 32 degrees.) you will then have to maintain this temp for a few day. I cant remember for how long. I have had ich and I treated with a very high temp I think that I went to 32 and used half dose of meds as I had loaches at the time. I hate what it does to the fish and water but I think that it was a good lesson for me cheers ziad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gianniz Posted October 25, 2008 Author Share Posted October 25, 2008 hey guys i was refering to these articles.. http://www.aquahobby.com/articles/e_ich2.php http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ichthyophthirius they both states 30 will stop reproduction cycle, and 32 will kill them. i am going to keep my tank at around 30 to see all the cyst disappear from the fish (all the neons have their cycst gone already, but i can still see the same 3 on the pakistani) ps. interesting i caught 3 of the white ick floating around (they were the size of a grain of sand and white. I put them in a test tube along with the tank water. This morning those 3 white things have disappeared and theres nothign in the test tube anymore except for water.... were they trophont? so i should pour that test tube water back into my tank lol guys but seriously has anyone here cured ick just by using temperature trick or should i add meds? (i have the blue and green and some more) i know these will stain my white sand, plus i was hoping to get rid of them through natural means, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CThompson Posted October 25, 2008 Share Posted October 25, 2008 White spot as you would have read has a life cycle. Just because the spots have disappeared off the fish does not mean the white spot has gone it just means that they have moved to the next stage in life. Eventually there will be enough parasites that there will be a constant supply in all stages and that’s when the spots will appear permanent. High temperatures will not kill white spot on its own, just speed up the life cycle. In conjunction with medication the raised temp will cause the parasites to pass through the free swimming stage where the medication can kill it. Loaches being scale-less fish may be knocked about with white spot medication. The difference of a pH of say 7.0 to 7.1 is not a difference of just one. It is in fact ten times more alkaline. You DON”T put neons in with Africans. They have evolved over MILLIONS of years to live in waters below a pH of 7. Just because you can doesn’t mean you should. The neons must be so stressed that they will be the reason the white spot has gotten a foothold in your tank. Understand also that white spot is always present, it is just waiting for a fish stressed enough that it can get a foothold on the fish In your case – in steps your neons in “Tanganyikan conditions” Constant high temps will also mean less 02 for the fish – another stress source where white spot can gain advantage. You want neons get another tank. If by chance your high temperatures (and the loach may be worth while to try this) does rid you tank of white spots, the neons will be a constant source of white spot proliferation for as long (short) they live. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gianniz Posted October 25, 2008 Author Share Posted October 25, 2008 hey Craig and others for your input. I will keep a very close eyes on my tank about 10 days of high temp (just to see if those articles are true) my tank temperature is now 32 during the day and at night around 30.. according this article, 32 will kill these parasites and since I can visibly see the itch on the loach (as i said theres 3) I will wait until those 3 drop off. Once I can't see any visible then I will maintain this temp for another 5-7 days to ensure all the free swimming parasite are distroyed. after about 10-12 days if I can't see any visible signs I will return the temp to normal. If there were left over icks then it should re-present itself within a few days. Then i'll use the multicure that I already have It has been found that Ich does not infect new fish at 29.4°C/85°F (Johnson, 1976), stops reproducing at 30°C/86°F (Dr. Nick St. Erne, DVM, pers. comm.), and dies at 32°C/89.5°F (Meyer, 1984), [1] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gianniz Posted October 25, 2008 Author Share Posted October 25, 2008 oh i also remember that my mate had an oscar that had ick, all over the body. lfs told him to raise temp over night then put in salt the next morning. after raising the temp he went to work and came back to realise all his ick was gone... it and it's only been like 10hours. Turns out his heater malfunctioned and the water temperature was 34degrees. It was like a warm bath!!!! I don't know whether he put salt the next morning but I never heard him talk about ick again and I was with him a year later selling both his oscars to Kingswood LFS (the small now closed one) we got $15 each not bad hey those guys use to be very nice fellas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rod54 Posted October 25, 2008 Share Posted October 25, 2008 Perhaps ich can be killed by temp??? but I'd add the medication just to be sure... Also I believe ich doesn't have a dormant stage....you have it or it's gone It is introduced by New fish(water/plants etc).....carefully inspect new fish for spots and don't add their water to your tank.....also pays to quarantine New purchases Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joel Posted October 26, 2008 Share Posted October 26, 2008 Also I believe ich doesn't have a dormant stage....you have it or it's gone My understanding, and as Craig pointed out, Ichthyophthirius multifiliis is forever present in the aquarium and it is only when fish become vulnerable that an outbreak can and will occur with large numbers of them appearing. If it were my fish I would use both higher temps and quality medication. Fortunately, it has been a long time since I have had an outbreak in my tanks. Quarantining new fish/plants is good practice. Cheers Joel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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