Ames Posted April 22, 2008 Share Posted April 22, 2008 hey guys, just wanted your opinion on my final design for my sump, I had a picture but it dosent want to let me post it!!! I was going to use bio balls instead of matrix but heard that matrix is alot better. anyone know how much matrix I will need for a 6x2x3? I was wanting to DIY this sump but am a little unsure of what the baffle heighths should be, I want as much water in there is possible and I know I have to allow for pump on-pump off, but am unsure of the measurements?? could anyone help? my sump size is 4ftLx50cmWx43cmH (note: the actual height of the tank is 50cm but there is a drilled hole in the tank so max height of tank is 43cm) any help would be appreciated!!! this is how it goes: filter foam/matrix/eggcrate refugium 3 baffles return pump Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ash Posted April 23, 2008 Share Posted April 23, 2008 Block that hole with a small bit of glass - all the run down room you'll ever need that way. I'll knock up a quick diagram shortly - do you know what the minimum running depth of your return pump is? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ash Posted April 24, 2008 Share Posted April 24, 2008 I quickly knocked this up close to scale given your dimentions - there is no reason you can't patch the drilled hole in the sump to get more flow down area. At present there is approx 200mmx500mmx1200mm of power outage flow down volume (approx 120 litres), if your tank is 3' wide rather than high this might not end up being enough, I haven't sat & done the maths. Perhaps the upright baffles that set the running volume of the sump could drop down to 250mm from the bottom rather than 300mm to give you more run down, also your return pump might need more than the 500x200x300 (or 250) worth of volume so perhaps that chamber will need to be wider than 20cm. Basically you just use overspaced baffles to force the water up & down through the biological media (matrix etc) The chamber on the right is simply filled with floss, this is where the weir would drain into - you don't need any fancy water distribution things like spray bars, drip trays or swinging arms this way. Forget the foam, just use disposable floss as any food rotting in the reusable foam that isn't washed out (and it is impossible to wash it all) will end up as nitrates that your matrix & plants need to export. This way simply throw out the floss as it catches crap, say twice weekly. You'll have over 1 1/2 cubic feet of biological media area if you go with 300mm high baffles. What plants are you planning on using to suck out the nitrates & phosphates? It would have to be something extremely fast growing that is tolerant of the hardness the tank will run. Hope this helps Cheers Ash Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ames Posted April 24, 2008 Author Share Posted April 24, 2008 wow thanks ash!! i really appreciate it, im at work at the moment so when I get a chance ill sit down and figure it out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lonx Posted April 24, 2008 Share Posted April 24, 2008 Hey ash... how's those mspaint skills doing? This guy is selling a tank with the same as the sump (exact same bioballs as well) which I picked up the other week for the 6x2x2. It was previously just running with the balls & wads of filter wool as far as I know, but maybe you have some other ideas on setting it up? http://www.aceforums.com.au/index.php?showtopic=38648 Will chat to you on MSN about it if I get a chance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ames Posted April 27, 2008 Author Share Posted April 27, 2008 thanks for the design ash! but do i need so many baffles at the start? i was thinking of having 1 baffle at the start with all my mechanical filtration then a fuge, then a set of baffles then the return? would this work or not? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colfish Posted April 27, 2008 Share Posted April 27, 2008 thanks for the design ash! but do i need so many baffles at the start? i was thinking of having 1 baffle at the start with all my mechanical filtration then a fuge, then a set of baffles then the return? would this work or not? with the extra baffles at the start, it gives the water almost 1mtr of travel through the matrix. remove the extra baffles, what distance does the water ? plus the baffles force the water through the matrix, without them the water would just run over the top. stick with the tried and trusted, it works Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ames Posted April 27, 2008 Author Share Posted April 27, 2008 i have come up with a design the measurements are as follows: chamber 1: 280mm mechanical filtration (wool, matrix, purigen etc) baffel 40mm chamber 2: 440mm refugium 2 baffels 40mm each chamber 3: return baffels are 300mm high how does this look? the only thing i am concerened about is evaporation and the amount of space i need in my sump for when the power goes off?? how much space do you normally leave for this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ames Posted April 27, 2008 Author Share Posted April 27, 2008 thanks for the design ash! but do i need so many baffles at the start? i was thinking of having 1 baffle at the start with all my mechanical filtration then a fuge, then a set of baffles then the return? would this work or not? with the extra baffles at the start, it gives the water almost 1mtr of travel through the matrix. remove the extra baffles, what distance does the water ? plus the baffles force the water through the matrix, without them the water would just run over the top. stick with the tried and trusted, it works im a little confused? whats the tried and trusted? i dont understand with your typo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colfish Posted April 28, 2008 Share Posted April 28, 2008 thanks for the design ash! but do i need so many baffles at the start? i was thinking of having 1 baffle at the start with all my mechanical filtration then a fuge, then a set of baffles then the return? would this work or not? with the extra baffles at the start, it gives the water almost 1mtr of travel through the matrix. remove the extra baffles, what distance does the water ? plus the baffles force the water through the matrix, without them the water would just run over the top. stick with the tried and trusted, it works im a little confused? whats the tried and trusted? i dont understand with your typo the design Ash gave you is the accepted basic formula ], it's the tried and trusted, stick with it untill you know how it all works, then you could try some minor changes to suit your own needs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BaZ Posted April 28, 2008 Share Posted April 28, 2008 Yep there's no point re-inventing the wheel until you've tried the exisiting wheel for yourself first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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