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Sump Filtration


Ames

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Hey everyone I am new to this site and new to the hobby!! I am about to set up 6x2x2.5 island tank that is viewable from all sides. just wondering how many of you use sumps and if any of you plumb your tank through the bottom?

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Most of my tanks that are on sump systems are plumbed through the bottom (though the return is over the top) with basic stand pipes instead of weirs - though in your "island" format a central weir might be a better option, perhaps with a latex background wrapped around it?

You can run the return up through the base too but you'd need to find either a one way valve you trust or take the return tubes right to the top.

Bear in mind filtering a tank like this (viewable on all sides) is just as bigger PITA, if not moreso with cannisters rather than using a sump so I think you are on the right track

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Bear in mind filtering a tank like this (viewable on all sides) is just as bigger PITA, if not moreso with cannisters rather than using a sump so I think you are on the right track

Canisters offer the benefit of being closed systems ==> no overflow worries if power fails.

My most "advanced" (IMHO) system uses an OASE pump/pond filter combo, plumbed through the bottom.

Not cheap ($1100), but completely inaudible at 6000lph.

The pond filter has a back-flush option, so I can use the pump to empty the tank as well.

Cheers,

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Sumps don't overflow either unless you stuff them up, though the noise factor is true.

I prefer the excess media area a sump provides & the flexability of replacing pump (whether faulty or upgrading) - tho a pond filter has pretty much those same benefits too so really they are a pretty damn good option that I'd forgotten about, just harder to throw a heater into one.

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Sumps don't overflow either unless you stuff them up, though the noise factor is true.

The nosie factor can be mitigated with things like durso stand pipes, baffles in the sump etc. I have a bit a noise coming out of my sump system but really it can only be heard in the dead of night. And if the sump overflows when the power goes off it is not setup properly or big enough to handle outlet. As long as your sump can handle the maxium aobmount of what between the top of out (or weur x the lengthxwidth/1000 then you will be fine. Only the amount of water that can drain out needs to be held ;)

cheers

rosco

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I am running a sump on my tank and it is silent (one of the requirements of having the tank) - the trick is to reduce the distance the water has to drop over the overflow. I will see if I can take a photo of the setup for you, or draw up a quick sketch.

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I find the over/under style of sump (also called a matrix sump I think?) to be a much more quiet option to the more traditional bioball trickle style of setup. The water calmly makes its way through a number of chambers rather than cascading down through the bioballs and into the water below.

The over/under sumps are much easier to maintain too in my opinion :)

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Hi guys :)

Ive been following this thread closely as Im about to set up my first tank with sump too, and Im wondering do you guys recomend having a weir in the tank or do you all just drill the back of the tank for your plumbing :confused:

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personal preference really, through the side is cheaper/easier but less asthetically pleasing - if it is a display tank consider a weir with a universal rocks (or similar) background glued around it to hide it

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thanks for all your input! I have come up with a design for my sump what do you guys think?

Chamber 1: mechanical filtration (foam pads, matrix, carbon??

Chamber 2: Bio Balls

Chamber 3: Refugium (plants rocks etc)

Chamber 4 : return pump

any input would be great!

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You'd need the matrix submerged for it to be most effective, whereas the bioballs have to be outside of the water with it trickling through them or they are a waste of space so first off you'd have to swap them around or just ditch the bioballs.

Plants tend to not grow fast enough in a FW environment to work as a refugium like macro algae does in a marine environment. Perhaps there is something that will work but I haven't heard of it being a done thing.

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You'd need the matrix submerged for it to be most effective, whereas the bioballs have to be outside of the water with it trickling through them or they are a waste of space so first off you'd have to swap them around or just ditch the bioballs.

Plants tend to not grow fast enough in a FW environment to work as a refugium like macro algae does in a marine environment. Perhaps there is something that will work but I haven't heard of it being a done thing.

this is an updated version:

piece of perspex with holes in it to act as a 'shower' to filter down through thick foam then thin foam, then the bio balls

next through the matrix, then through the fuge then back into return pump!!

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because they can only host aerobic bacteria they can only make nitrate, not break it down - this is where matrix & other submerged medias are superior.

Honestly I wouldn't make another bioball sump, I'd go matrix or similar in an over/under style & use just use disposable filter floss as a mechanical prefilter so there is nothing trapping rotting stuff in the water to build up nitrates.

When I get a chance tomorrow I'll knock up a quick sump diagram to show you what I'm getting at.

Oh for your fuge lighting, they carry energy savers from 11-24w at bunnings that have reflector around them - I'm using one for my reef tank fuge as they seem to be the latest popular/cheap/decent option to get a fair bit of light over a small area.

ps: what fish specifically are you wanting to keep?

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yep, tho really thin floss (hobbyfill at Spotlight) will do the job, just chuck it out every week or two

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