chorrylan

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About chorrylan

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    Pike (Post Junkie)

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  • Gender Male
  • Location Canberra
  1. Frontosa Temp

    Fronties lurk around the 30-40m metre  and even deeper depths in the lake so their natural temperature range would be 23.5-25 C. Lower than that would be unnatural (even at 400m depth Tanganyikan water sits at about 23 degrees year around) Warmer would mean lower oxygen and higher bacterial loads than is good for them.
  2. It's correct that for a given concentration of nitrite (or ammonia) the toxicity increases as temperature decreases *but* the input to this sequence is decomposition of nitrogen-containing substances and this *greatly* increases with increasing temperature thereby breaking the "for a given concentration" assumption. To complicate things further, both ammonia and nitrate toxicity cause gill damage and reduction in oxygen absorption and the availability of oxygen goes down as the temperature increases. In  an african cichlid tank with poor/recovering/cycling filtration I'd be keeping temps around 22-23 deg.
  3. Nitrate isn't toxic to fish unless we're talking phenomenally high levels.... and while 80-100ppm is high it's nowhere near toxic levels. Nitrite on the other hand is! OP: I wouldn't get "too" worried about nitrate levels but you should double check that you are measuring nitrate and not nitrite levels. Even marginally high nitrite levels will kill fish and if they're going up or clearly measurable then  1. you have too much food going into the system and hence too much ammonia being produced and hence too much nitrite for the bacteria to convert into nitrate  2. or perhaps your nitrite->nitrate conversion process has broken down at least partially. A too-harsh filter-cleaning exercise perhaps or a dead fish causing a spike in material for the bacteria to consume or your water supplier found  a dead cat in the water supply tanks and gave it an extra high dose of chlorine or worse, chloramine that outlasted your water conditioner (or you forgot to use water conditioner?)     Things to do:   - reduce the food input; in fact probably don't feed at all for several days. The food gets converted to ammonia, ammonia to nitrite and nitrite to nitrate. In a freshwater aquarium and without lots and lots of plants or expensive stuff the the primary  - reduce the temperature (no don't increase it to 27 degrees) - water changes. The frequency and proportion of water changes depends mostly on the condition of the water going in. If it's aged, conditioned and the correct temperature you can safely perform a 100% water change. I keep a pair of 1000 litre water change tanks precisely for this reason, something similar (though obviously smaller) woudl be recommended for your purposes.  - plants consume nitrates but from your description of tank size and occupants I doubt you'd be able to fit enough to have a significant impact    
  4. omg...not sure what else to say

    now that's a definite candidate for your signature ducksta :-)
  5. please help..it's doing my head in :) read info

    My suspicion would be that they're cysts from a burrowing parasite or one that is laying eggs subcutaneously. Check out the koi forums and you'll see very similar stuff, in fact increasingly in recent times. I once bought some clown loaches that had very similar black spots and as I couldn't identify any particular parasite I ended up treating them with a potassium permanganate solution at 2mg per litre (ie a bit over a gram in a 6x2x2) .. I think 4 times at 3 day intervals and then repeated that a month later to be thorough. Potassium permanganate is a strong oxidant so in effect burns off (or suffocates) parasites (and your fish also if you overdose ... just luckilly it is brightly coloured in solution so you have a obvious indicator if you're overdosing)
  6. Overflow box options?

    More that it's too inconvenient, fiddly and visible. I'd recommend drilling it.
  7. Brine shrimp eggs

    I buy brine shrimp eggs from these guys: http://www.primo.net.au/?page=catlist&id=1 They're aquaculture suppliers so 1) the stock will generally be fresher than anywhere else you can source from and will have been kept in refrigerated storage, 2) they supply to people who are in this as a business so they care and know about even tiny differences in hatch rates, temp requirements etc between batches Hatching is with one of these: http://www.jehmco.com/BSHL3BW_10045a-500p.jpg bought from http://www.jehmco.com/html/brine_shrimp_hatcheries.html
  8. Where are the guys with blue lipstick?

    oh ... we're talking about fish??? I saw the thread topic and dropped in to say that I'm pretty sure craig was at the last NSWCS mtg. ...moving right along...
  9. Egg Tumbler Design Ideas

    My 2c Ensure you can access/open the second screen on the bottom otherwise if an egg or very small fry drops between the screens and grows a bit before you notice you can remove it without getting brutal. I prefer Not to depend on suction caps to keep it upright as they have limited longevity (and if it's just suspended by airline ensure it never opens unexpectedly ) The screens in the jehmco ones are too small in diameter for most of my purposes.
  10. What will eat snails & not Pep BN and cherry shrimp

    lol .. just reading that brought tears to my eyes
  11. First impressions of New Era fish food.

    10kg? I didn't see that and I'd probably be interested if it were priced nicely. A bit of feedback that I think you might want to consider bouncing on to new era arj... the 1.8kg tubs (as in the actualy buckets not the food) are atrocious. We (cdas) split several lids and one of the buckets just opening them the first time and I had to put some into old/empty NLS buckets I had sitting around which isn't doing a lot for 'brand recognition' :-) Is the 20kg (or preferably the 10kg) bucket a bit more solid and better sealing? re: pellet sizing; Rather than a 4mm pellet I'd be happy with existing 6mm pellet sizing for frontosa if they were simply cut shorter. eg use the same extrusion equipment but cut into half the length they are now so we end up with a pellet approx 6mm x 6mm
  12. First impressions of New Era fish food.

    I use a mix of cichlid red and aegis in 1.5mm as the main food for my frontosa and the occasional feed of 6mm pellets broken in half (otherwise the smaller ones won't get any)
  13. Cleaning shells

    I'd use potassium pemanganate (which you can get from any chemist) as it'll oxidise anything that was ever a life form and unlike chlorine you can tell for certain when it has been neutralised once the color has gone.
  14. nah alex's stand is all kosher. he bought an engineers certificate on ebay from the same place he was buying that pallet of foam from. hmmm although that could mean the certificate is gonna be 'in-the-mail' for the next 3 years lol
  15. Pepp fry dying - why?

    note ... if almond leaves help then it pretty much means you have some sort of parasite problem as the whole point of them is they're mildly anti-parasitic and anti-bacterial (and strongly colorful :-) ).