fishdance

I rarely test anymore but I was using DPH 2 tablets (total chlorine). I recommend you use 100mm DVW pipe over 90mm stormwater for durability. Also for context, if your dripping say 10% of your tanks weekly, the 1.0ppm becomes less than 0.1ppm which is fine even for fry. With time, you will be able to let your fish behaviour tell you if there is an issue.

Remembered a conversation with an experienced pool guy many years ago. It is possible to calculate chloramine level with the Palin (DHP) tablet test results but it was tedious and subjective. Especially as we are only interested in a zero result. Zero free chlorine indicates zero chloramine. I did a quick google to find something similar https://www.kuntzeusa.com/knowledge/chloramines-and-dpd-1 Essentially wait longer for the test result and repeat the test several times for consistency Another thought I had was more and more companies and water filter resellers claim only catalytic carbon will remove chloramine which sadly is a blatant lie. Similar to having to change cartridges more frequently to be effective. Upselling using fear and ignorance. I use activated carbon (not catalytic carbon). The finer the particle/granules and the higher the activation level, the more effective the adsorption rate. Old school "sizzle" test is a reliable guide. The level of activation is simply the void ratio due to the firing temperate used to expell gas to create voids. It's easy in theory to recharge used carbon if you have a fireplace or firepit (and a thick steel pot). Don't get me wrong, catalytic carbon would remove chloramine more efficiently BUT if it cost ten times more it would need to be ten times more efficient to be economical. Especially if you buy activated carbon in 5kg bags.

I'm in Brisbane. I won't be able to help with the theoretical chemistry calculations but I suspect the slow flow rate - longer dwell times through the carbon makes a difference. Or perhaps the 5 micron ceramic prefilter extends carbon efficiency. I don't worry about chloramines as it can't be present if chlorine is not detected. I prepack my own carbon cartridges. They make modules to suit a standard filter housing which can be filled with whatever media you like. This allows me to save money, maintain quality control of carbon and pack more densely. What I suggest you do is set up your carbon filter at the flow rate you will require and test weekly. That's the best way to know for sure. I use the swim pool chlorine test tablets which show pink if chlorine is present. Deeper hue of pink means higher levels of chlorine. While no chlorine is best, a trace amount is still fine for many months. You will have plenty of warning. If you want longer intervals between carbon replacement, improve the grade of carbon or add another carbon filter (in series) or get a bigger carbon filter. Easy to DIY a screw cap 100mm PVC pipe as long as you wish (as carbon holder) or repurpose an aquarium canister filter, or scavenge small swim pool filter (check behindyour local pool store) as this is low pressure. After I first posted my experiences, I googled drip systems and was blown away at how much information is available online and how detailed some videos are etc. I felt a bit embarrassed explaining when so much knowledge is easily available. No wonder these discussion forums are dwindling. Anyway, always happy to help.

Older houses (30+ years) often have tap pressures of 700 kPa while newer houses have 500 kPa according to my plumber who is excellent. It's quite easy to measure your water pressure if you have a pressure guage - just screw connect it to any threaded tap. That said, low pressure irrigation fittings would struggle over 150kPa I suspect. If no external leaks occur, everything is good! No pressure measurement needed. As previously posted, I reduce my mains water pressure simply by dialing down a dedicated brass tap to a mere trickle with the carbon filter downstream. You can also effectively reduce water pressure with a longer narrower diameter supply line to drippers. Do use barb adapter fittings (not threaded) and hopefully your polypipe needs to be heated to push on. The mindset is low pressure - slow flow but ever constant and you will be surprised how much water change can be achieved. Not having to touch or adjust things builds in reliability which is why PC drippers are better. I've had issues with that particular Bunnings pressure reducer the once and only time I tried it. It's only plastic. 300 kPa is still too high. I have used non-PC drippers before and the water volume/rate changes for each dripper as the water pressure changes. So whenever you open up or close other drippers, they are all affected. I only had 60 tanks on that set up but it was a constant battle if precision is needed. If water temperature during winter isn't an issue, you may be fine even if 100% water changes daily? All tanks on a central sump can be considered one tank. Similarly, it's very easy to connect several vertical tanks with a power head, just drain top tank into the tank(s) below. Before I bought a glass hole saw, I used water bridges to connect tanks horizontal. I'm sure you will work it out. Just solve each issue as they arrive.

An irrigation specialty store should have 0.5 LPH pressure compensating drippers. The pressure compensation is mostly for convenience as different dripper heights are typically used in a fish room or you may have a large fish room or the mains tap pressure may fluctuate. If your tanks are at similar heights or you don't mind manually adjusting (and measuring) your drip rate then use normal drippers as these can be turned right down or completely off. Just be mindful of preventing pressure build up longer term. A bleeder dripper over sink for example could be used. Another suggestion is to link multiple 80L tanks together and use a 2 LPH for this set of tanks. Just be creative, it's not an absolute science. To increase your KH, I would add a small amount of crushed coral. Idiot proof method of providing buffer that's slow release.

Haven't seen any around for a while. Mine are 120cm + now. Almost full size. Very gentle natured placid fish that arent territorial and don't eat smaller fish so great for a peaceful big tank They don't spook when big enough to gain confidence, especially in groups. Very flighty in glass tanks too small though. I have an albino one bought blind unknowingly but she hand feeds easily. I slap the water to call her over. Tickle her chin and she opens her mouth wide to gulp down pellets and peas. These are not to be confused with paroon / sangwongesi which have a high pointy dorsal fin, very predatory and reach 3m size. I've seen some paroons overseas in public aquarium close up. A 3m fish is very intimidating.

I use Google search. Just put " forum name & keyword or topic " into Google. They have invested billions of dollars into their search engine.

Shrimp won't turn eggs over unfortunately. The embryo membranes will stick to the outer unless the egg is rotated, much like a bird egg. If your getting fungus after hatching, your incubators may be damaging. If your using plastic tea strainers, give them a good sandpaper with 800 grit wet - dry. For high value species, I usually rob eggs at 3 days. This is a very delicate stage, lots can go wrong but if you get it right you can get very productivity and learn quite a lot.

Some suggestions below for you, pick whichever you think might suit you: * Light acriflavine to inhibit fungus. Much more effective than Methylene Blue. Do keep light off eggs. * UV filter on hatching tank if you have one * Slight increase in temperature to boost egg development speed, this needs to be balanced against increased bacterial growth but fungus is less temperature dependent * Spawn other fish about 5-10 days ahead. These fish will be heads & tails (more developed) and can be added to your incubator to safely "stir and kick"your delicate eggs. Egg movement prevents fungus growth and fungus spread. There are lots of easy to spawn species and hopefully your experienced enough to spawn what your really after on que. * The spherical based upwelling incubators like zoug jars or Ziess are gentler on eggs. This becomes more important on very delicate eggs or larger eggs - frontosa, arowana, etc. * split your eggs into multiple incubators to decrease fungal spread.

Because I'm lazy, I remove fish & plants then run a light bleach solution through the tank with filter(s) running and the substrate left in. This will strip all your biofilm and organic detritus buildup to leave a sparkling clean sterile tank. Then drain tank & filters (including canisters) leaving everything insitu and store until required. Canister filter media doesn't get removed. If I'm closing down a few tanks I will remove any gravel (stored in plastic mesh bags), stack lids edge down in a labelled fish box and store multiple tanks on top of each other three or four tanks high with strips of wood between. 6 and 8 for foot tanks stored on end to save space. I've been keeping fish long enough to have uniform sized tanks, standardised overflow drain placement and interchangeable lids so it's easy to swap out.

Or add a 10cm wooden border around the top of tank without a lid.

Have you considered a zoom meeting as backup? I'd possibly attend if that was an option.

Ammonia in the tap water is expected if chloramine is being used. Your biological filter would remove very quickly. Most dechlorinators will bind ammonia as well.

I fell deep down into this rabbit hole of saltwater aquarium geeks & water chemistry. They seem to show PRIME doesn't remove ammonia in analytical tests and practical tests. https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/does-prime-actually-detoxify-free-ammonia-nh3.849985/

Only 5 years later.... I use 19mm polypipe for air circuits but have multiple open loops (no dead ends) just above each fish tank so the airline lengths can be all same length. More efficient and neater than a single main circuit at ceiling height that droops lots of confusing airlines. I also have two large airpumps per air circuit. WHEN one pump fails, the other pump still supplies air to tanks at a noticeably lower volume until you can repair or replace the faulty one. This method of redundancy removes the need for two (or three) air stones/filters per tank to save equipment costs, space and maintenance. I have smaller separate air circuits for my more prized fish racks to reduce their risk further. On those racks I have my stored spare oxygen cylinders very slightly opened via a normally closed solenoid valve into these dedicated air circuits. Should the electrical power fail, pure oxygen is trickled into the air line circuits and into tanks without any moving parts. (Evenly if all airline lengths are the same). When power is on, the solenoid valves stay closed. Despite my initial reservations, I haven't had any issues the last ten years. I figured that I might as well utilise the spare oxygen cylinders while they are stored. I put one of the two air pumps on a dedicated - reserved electrical circuit that is backed up should electrical power fail. Only air pumps go on this reserved electrical circuit to reduce the chance of power trip. And only one of the two air pumps is on this reserved circuit to increase the back up power time (Currently 6 days) and this spreads risk of air pumps over two electrical circuits. I try to keep the same brand and model air pump throughout so hot swapping is easier and so I only need to keep one spare part on hand for all pumps. Obviously I keep a spare air pump (or four) ready too. Unfortunately over time, manufacturers and models become unavailable. I've got a graveyard of about 30 large pumps which I keep meaning to throw out. Don't forget to change flapper valves when you change diaphragms. We probably should invest in more spare parts but it's often simpler to buy new pumps nowadays.