Buccal

Sitting on a square piece of 10mm thick foam works well to,,,, or a rubber square tile 300 x 300mm from Clark Rubber or possibly bunnings. But a percentage of the time the noise occurs from the inside,, air pumps are just a bunch of rubber, plastic, metal parts that just wear, I personally can never see the point of talking about which brand pump lasts longer,,,,, I'm very big scale,,, the same goes for water pumps also, as well as air pumps,,, I've been through so many, cheap ones, expensive ones in betweens you name it,,, because it's big scale, the multiple series of pumps of all types through out, so I see over all performance of a product, which means I may be using up to 30x of the exact same pump,,,,,,,. Some products can have 1-2 out of 10 fail between 6-12 months,, while 1-2 will last what feels like as long as I live along with various other outcomes. More high end of the quality ranges, this can still be seen but only occasionally,, as quality is still more towards a consistent or regulated of same product items. If the central spinning mechanics together with its housing lacks the tiniest bit of precision, then that's a wearing down or flogging out before its time is up,,,,, when the product begins to become flogged out, that's when the noises start to occur from the inside. One would be Suprised to see the size of manifold required to fully relieve a large air pump,, if at all the pump is being choked with back pressure it increases excessive wear,,, from a miniscule up to very noticeable. I use 25mm poly over winding distances, I did this as a add on many years later and purely for ease,,,, but my pumps are moderately choked,,, it's not the matter of, but that's after 80 air outlets to one side and 70 to the other with another seperate part that has 140 to the inside growouts,,,, ultimately a 50mm pvc ring beam over head would see a nice even pressure throughout the facility,,,,,,,, but yep I semi-flog my air pumps out. When a pond one air pump floggs out, interesting thing is they just make a slight hissing sound like pressure leaking.

Pond ones are a lot more quite. But giving them nice large manifolds through out can sometimes reduce noise,,,, because sometimes a pump can be noisy when slightly choked, larger manifolds allow you to deliver full capable pressure. Also i would have you could just extend flexihose to place you can have pumps not on a common wall,,, it's like a ever so light resonating droning weak hum in the ear drum. When comparing actual performance, the pond one in same size comparison to the LP, the LP noticeably out performs by a little bit,, so if you try, just go bit bigger,,,,,, pond one lasts just as long and faults as often as LP,,,,,,. I've had two LPs cook in history so far, and pond ones just seem to lose effectiveness as they get well used.

Some very well kept fish there by the look off....

Never tried this myself,,, but for these snails Kusuri is meant to wipe them. To try you could half dose, and make sure your fish are fine, proceed with full dose. Also, as Ged mentioned, zuchinni,,,,, tie of a weighted large peice of blanched zuchinni. Chuck it in at night and pull out in morning. If you do this regularly it will keep the popution right down. Once it's down, you'll likely be able to have a long break from doing it till population needs to be controlled again.

Some buffers raise GH and KH at all different levels depending on brand. Close to being a pure KH adjuster is sodium bicarbonate. This excellent buffer will raise your KH to higher levels that are wanted. Calcium chloride will directly raise the GH which I like to keep higher than KH by at least 2-3 increments. The GH has a very slight ability to hold KH a little longer. Having calcium is added bonus. Magnesium sulphate is used in small portions that also steer GH upwards. Magnesium sulphate has medicinal prevention properties. But not to much as it relaxes fishes bowels to much and can almost make them dependent on it for normal bowel movement. Still on the bacteria topic. As your beneficial bacteria become active consuming ammonia after feeding fish, the beneficial bacteria depletes carbonates at the same time, and to a minimum, the intervals between fish feed times, carbonates slightly deplete. Beneficial bacteria thrive healthier in larger numbers when higher carbonates are present,,, thus beneficial bacteria can to some extent outcompete the nasty harmful bacterias. Knowing this simple relationship makes problem free of common unwanted bacterias and diseases, Once this was practiced and balanced out and working, I was able to confidently disconnect all my UV sterilization units.

Yes it is extremely interesting, so many ways, either one can present in many ways (bloat, lesions, waisting and more). Through my experiences,,, there is absolutely no doubt that the highest KH levels you can possibly keep any fish in Definetely throttles and/or prevents these horrible diseases.

No such thing as water being to dirty for K media. That's the beauty of it,,, it tumbles and keeps its self free from blocking up,,,, 100% biological action 100% of the time.

Jap mat for primary mechanical filtration Black sheet sponge for secondary mechanical filtration Black matala mat (coarse grade) with 'Water Cleanser Pond Block' underneath for biological K1 media tumbling for biological All in order.

Placidochromis phenochilus 'mdoka'. (white lips)

The G is for green and blues. The R is for oranges and reds. Both R and G will color up fish green and blue as good as each other. R has added astaxanthin plus other stuff to help the red orange along.

What Ducksta just said is bang on correct. Don't think of your Malawi fishes color like a saltwater fishes color which is generally a locked in color with most ornamental species. Malawi fish colors are of fluorescence and switch on and of depending on circumstances. But once you have your tank established and set up correctly, most of the dominant fish will retain color for most of the time. Whitecrane will make all fish colored all of the time, and even in stressed average settings. Your food description doesn't match that of whitecrane. Therefore your food wouldn't be any better than all the other foods out there for enhancement. Your better of sticking with the three or four major leading brands. And if you want for real true color enhancement get whitecrane as nothing on the market comes close to this stuff for enhancement in oz. A typical example of peacock color in 6cm fish. Bunch of 50,, only one is colored up with no others showing much sign of color as he is dominant. Remove him, then within a hour the next dominant in line is showing color. Then remove the colored one out and again the third in line shows color. As they get older,, more and more stand up together to assert dominance at the same time. Buuut chuck in the whitecrane to the 50 odd 6cm fish and every single one will be glowing with color.

Absolutley no problems with using it in the correct circumstances. Whitecrane should not be used in breeding situations as breeding will stop. Whitecrane should not be used to trick people for extra sales,,, but completely ethical if the buyer is notified about the stock being color fed. Whitecrane is the only true color enhancer food in Australia except for astaxanthin loaded foods which enhances yellows, reds and oranges over a very long period of time of feeding,, which works differently to whitecrane which triggers fluorescence production in the fishes systems with PSB as active ingredient,,,, and works within days!!!!!. All other foods that claim 'color enhancing', is a slight exaggeration,,,, these foods would be better described as color promoters and not enhancers. Don't think of whitecrane as a food,,, it lacks nutrition compared to other foods. Think of white crane as a TOOL. So,,,,,, 20% whitecrane and 80% of any premium food. If white crane is exclusively fed,,, the fishes lives become shortened with organ failure. White crane has no impact on life span when fed 20% portion in diet. I have 8-9 year old cichlids doing well on the 20%-80% feeding. Best to use whitecrane ADP "tiny crumble".,, this way it's easier to administer the 20% to fish rather than the big 3mm pellets that fish may pig out on. I use it in my display, whitecrane is absolutely magic stuff. Fish don't get stuck in a dominant hierarchy mode where some are colored and some not,,,, they are all simply glowing regardless of mood,,, and even become relaxed and less aggressive over time. Juveniles and females will also color up nicely. I have a 2500 liter tank roughly, with over 100 full size cichlids and other odd balls. A 900gram pack of adp lasts almost a year.!!!! Most info from Fishkeepers about whitecrane is garbage and lack the experience/experimentation with whitecrane.

Dude, you do awesome pictures, unbelievable.