<br>

has anyone had success using "regular" (and alot cheaper!) bulbs from the hardware or lighting stores in use as basking spots for heat? in particular which aussie brands because all the info i have found seems to be U.S. stuff!! i'm looking at keeping a bearded dragon so any help would be greatly appreciated as to what bulb to use . e.g u.v red, 100 watts etc.??

<br>

<br>

thank you all in advance

<br>

<br>

Trent.

<br>

</P></DIV><H2>Replies »</H2><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Tit 4 Tang</STRONG><BR><BR>Hey

<br>

i always use the hardware bulbs, but not the UV ones, just the norml spot lights to give out heat. For UV i use the reptisun 5.0 tubes. Havnt had any troubles at all.

<br>

Hope this helps

<br>

T4T

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Tman</STRONG><BR><BR>thanks for thatT4T!! my wallet also thanks you

<br>

<br>

ummm... which brand and wattage? i'll have to use 2 thermometers to check the temp. on either side of the tank right?? what should the temp be in the basking side of the tank? thanks heaps and yes i am getting a reptisun 5.0

<br>

<br>

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Whiteyyt</STRONG><BR><BR>This may get complicated but please bear with me. And please remember this is ONLY an Idea at the moment so feel free to comment.

<br>

I am looking at setting up a tank for beardies at the moment, and from what I can gather there are two things that can do damage to them Lack of heat and too much heat. I'm contemplating a strange (but hopefully well working set up albeit possibly expensive) being that its comming up to winter it's nearly the right time to do it I feel as the outside cage temp won't get too high.

<br>

Reptisun tubes are Definitely required and need to be on a timer switch (TS1). and mounted less than 30cms above the lizard when it is basking. this part is easy flouro on a timer switch (TS1).

<br>

I'm going to use 2 thermostats but not quite in the way you are talking about.

<br>

The first thermostat (TH1) will be wired to switch

OFF

at a temp of about 50deg C. The sensor bulb will be about 1/4 cage length from the Basking end of the cage around 2/3 up the wall. The second thermo(TH2) AND the Basking Spots will be powered from this, the basking spots have a timer switch (TS2) on them to switch on power to them for a set period a day. the Primary heat source (probably a ceramic or blue or red globe). to keep a temp of around 26 deg on average will be directly wired to TH2 and be around the centre of the cage. The sensor bulb will be about 1/4 cage length from the cold end of the cage around 2/3 up the wall.

<br>

in this way if the cage gets too hot the basking spots And the Primary heat source will switch off thus not overheating the cage and the dragons.

<br>

These temps are just a guess at the moment and by no means final, just an indication as to the way I'm thinking at the moment.

<br>

So in Summary

<br>

TS1 Timer Switch connected to reptisun

<br>

TS2 conected to basking spot(s)

<br>

TH1 thermostat to Stop overheating

<br>

TH2 thermostat to keep temp up

<br>

<br>

Power - two conections TS1 (reptisun) and TH1(overheat thermo)

<br>

TH1 - two conections (TS2) (basking Spots) and TH2 (primary heat source)

<br>

<br>

I hope one or all of these makes sense.

<br>

<br>

Cheers

<br>

Whitey.

<br>

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Tit 4 Tang</STRONG><BR><BR>Hey all

<br>

Ok, first of all Tman> I normally use Phillips spot lights and the wattage will depend on the size of your cabinet/tank. I use a 100-150watt for my 4ft and a 60watt for my 30inch. You will find that if you put the basking light at one side of the tank it will heat up one side more than the other, seeing as reptiles are ectotherms they cant regulate their own body heat soo they will generally stay over to the warmer side but when their body temp gets to high they will move over to the other side to cool off, this is called thermo regulation and as i said all reptiles do it soo really worrying about thermometers on each side is not really needed.

<br>

And Whiteyyt, wat your doing sounds great for winter, cause from experience with heat only being given through the day the nights slow the beardies down, but i feel that all that you could make your tank alot less simpler.For instance when i had my beardies, i had the reptisun 5.0 and a heat bulb. On during the day and off at night but in a warm part of the house, over winter it slowed them down for sure but in summer, you will still get maximum growth and movement, i reackon that your way sounds great for the winter cause the temps will be up but in summer it will be off alot of the time due to high ambient temps. Anyways thats my 2 bob

<br>

Hope this helps

<br>

T4T

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: PepperK</STRONG><BR><BR>Gday Trent

<br>

<br>

i also used the more expensive reptile globe - it was a red globe, and cost nearly $30, so when it blew i opted for a cheaper reflector globe - a breeder had reccomended that it's not worth spending the extra money.

<br>

The one i have is an Osram E27 Spot R63 (dunno what that all means), anyway, it's a basic 40W white light reflector globe and it works fine.

<br>

I think it's good to have a low wattage (within reason) so that it's on a lot of the time and there's somewhere for your herp to bask.

<br>

(nb. i also have a heat mat - but my viv is only 2' since it's justkeeping a little maccy)

<br>

<br>

Cheers

<br>

<br>

Tristan

<br>

just wondering if it is possible to house a beardie or jacky with a childrens python in a 4' tank ... is it possible

<br>

thanks again

<br>

zane

<br>

</P></DIV><H2>Replies »</H2><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Memphis Tank</STRONG><BR><BR>Zane,

<br>

Personally it is not something i would be willing to experiment with.

<br>

<br>

I take it that you already have your childrens python? Maybe you could do a bit of research on where they are located in the wild. And what they will/ have been known to eat.

<br>

<br>

I suppose you have to ask yourself do you keep your prized lorrikeet in the same enclosure as your pet wedge tailed eagle. 24/7. eight dayz a week (for all those beetles fans).

<br>

<br>

At the end of the day Zane its your choice but until you have the basic of herpiculture i would steer clear of cross - exhibitation.

<br>

<br>

And for piece of mind whats another 4' tank that you you could have two beardies in.

<br>

<br>

But if its the whole cross exhibitation that you like try something like a water dragon and a turtle.

<br>

<br>

Cheers

<br>

Memphis Tank.

<br>

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: the zanex</STRONG><BR><BR>i am just looking into it at this stage to see if it is possible as i cant decide what i want to get.... as if it is possible it would be good as i have limited space

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: rtownsend78</STRONG><BR><BR>I think the greater risk is of a water dragon eating a childrens python which I think would be verry likely

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: leptomaniac</STRONG><BR><BR>I'm sorry to burst the bubble again, but there is an extremely high risk of your lizard being eaten by the python. It is a risk that I would not be willing to take. I have photographic evidence of Antaresia childreni eating Agamid lizards.

<br>

<br>

Cheers,

<br>

Andrew.

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: zanex1</STRONG><BR><BR>righto i guess its not going to happen then

<br>

thanks

<br>

zane

<br>

<br>

Any suggestions? Will they eat each other? Will they mate and make spiny blue tongued dragons?

<br>

</P></DIV><H2>Replies »</H2><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: leptomaniac</STRONG><BR><BR>Howdy,

<br>

<br>

They'll be fine in together, just make sure they both get the required amounts of UVA and UVB spectrums.

<br>

<br>

Their diets are very different, the Bearded Dragon will respond better to live foods such as crickets and cockroaches, etc. The Bluey loves a mix of soft fruits, snails, mince, etc. Do not feed mealworms - these block up the digestive tract.

<br>

<br>

Hope this helps,

<br>

Andrew.

<br>

thanks

</P></DIV><H2>Replies »</H2><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: slotha</STRONG><BR><BR>If they're the ones i'm thinking of, i don't think are available in Oz. I have been wrong twice though.

<br>

Tim

<br>

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: leptomaniac</STRONG><BR><BR>Hi guys,

<br>

<br>

The Chameleon Dragon is a native species and I'm sure it can be obtained from somewhere. However, I have never known anyone with the species in their collection. If I hear of anything, I'll let you know.

<br>

<br>

Cheers,

<br>

Andrew.

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: slotha</STRONG><BR><BR>Well thats 3 times now

Andrew, do you have the full name of this lizard? Just curious as to what it looks like.

<br>

Thanks

<br>

Tim

<br>

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Link 2 Hell</STRONG><BR><BR>Listed here as Chelosania brunnea

<br>

<br>

www.kingsnake.com/oz/habitqld/listqld.htm

<br>

<br>

Google search page for Chelosania brunnea

<br>

<br>

L2H

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: leptomaniac</STRONG><BR><BR>Thanks L2H,

<br>

<br>

I was too slow on that one.

For a picture of the animal, look in Harold Cogger's

Reptiles and Amphibians of Australia.

<br>

<br>

Cheers,

<br>

Andrew.

</P></DIV><H2>Replies »</H2><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: the reptilian</STRONG><BR><BR>is that you bradely??

<br>

well if it isn't then you should just keep trying to feed it for the next week but if he still doesn't eat then consult and expert.

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: E4G13M4N</STRONG><BR><BR>How old and what size is the python ??

<br>

<br>

Also what temp is it kept at ?

<br>

<br>

^Mark^

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: leptomaniac</STRONG><BR><BR>What foods have you offered it? Were they live or dead? How long since it last ate?

<br>

<br>

Please answer quickly, because if it is a serious problem, you may need to seek veterinary help.

<br>

<br>

Cheers,

<br>

Andrew.

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Tit 4 Tang</STRONG><BR><BR>Hey

<br>

I found with my childrens that wernt eating live pinkies, thawed or anything else, they ate live lizards tails to start off with then i got them on mice,

<br>

hope this helps

<br>

T4t

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Herpert</STRONG><BR><BR>its 1 year and 4months old its 60 cm long it stays at a temp of about 27-32 degrees celcius im feeding it dead thawed out weeners (young mice that have just got fur)it last ate at 02/03/03.

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: scitzfish</STRONG><BR><BR>when did it last 'poo' could it have a blockage?.......probably best to see a vet asap

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: leptomaniac</STRONG><BR><BR>Don't be at all concerned yet - they can go for literally months without food and not suffer at all. Some snakes will only ever eat a few times a year and that seems to suit them fine.

<br>

<br>

How are you thawing the pinkies? I find it best to thaw them in a mug of boiled water, so that they are warm once they're offered to the snake. Also, you may benefit from purchasing some lizard scent from your nearest reptile specialist store. It is used to make the pinkies smell like lizards to arouse the interest of the python. Works very well.

<br>

<br>

Cheers,

<br>

Andrew.

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Herpert</STRONG><BR><BR>thanks people I fed it a few lizard tales last night and I'm going to do it for a while then get it onto mice , if I have any more problems ill inform you

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: leptomaniac</STRONG><BR><BR>Good luck with it. But I'm sure everything will be fine. Don't forget to worm the snake periodically if it is eating lizards - they carry all sorts of nasties in various stages of life cycle.

<br>

<br>

Great forum, Nikki and Yew

Its a great idea!!!

<br>

<br>

I cannot find any info anywhere on the keeping of the dainty tree frog. We get them all the time in the banana boxes at Safeway (Woolies)

Does anyone know how to keep them?

<br>

<br>

Thanks,

<br>

<br>

Matt

</P></DIV><H2>Replies »</H2><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: E4G13M4N</STRONG><BR><BR>Matti they are fairly easy to keep ..

<br>

Just need a small water section that is easy to clean or if you can an u/g filter works ok ...

<br>

The more plants the better and a heat source to keep them warm depending on how cold the room gets they are kept in ..

<br>

<br>

we use a red party globe above a mesh section in the hood of the tank..

<br>

<br>

Also you probally need a permit from NPWS to keep frogs

<br>

in the eastern states

... Unlike SA were permits are not required

<br>

<br>

^Mark^

<br>

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: griffin</STRONG><BR><BR>Yes you do need a permit to keep them - costs $40 for 2 yrs from National Parks & Wildlife Services.

<br>

<br>

You can get help and advice from the FATS (froga and tadpole study group) orginisation - they're really excellent, know all there is to know about frogs and do excellent conservation work (we probably wouldn't still have the Green and Golden Bell Frog if it wasn't for them).

<br>

<br>

If you are finding a lot of frogs in the banana boxes you can get FATS to come rescue them - they quarrantine them and then give them out to members of their society to keep as pets. The frogs can't be released because they are not likely to survive Sydney winters and there is also the threat of them spreading disease to local frog populations.

<br>

<br>

A contact number for FATS is (02) 9371 9129. They're very helpful.

<br>

<br>

Jess

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Matti Cichlid</STRONG><BR><BR>Hey Jess,

<br>

<br>

Thanks for that number I'll take it in. We just call the RSPCA normally.

<br>

<br>

Matt

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: cichlidan</STRONG><BR><BR>

<br>

Hi

<br>

<br>

Firstly I would like to say that this herp forum is a cool idea! How problematic are frogs to care for? Do they keep u awake all night with their call?

<br>

<br>

Cheers

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Baz</STRONG><BR><BR>I used to keep 2 green tree frogs (no idea of their sci name, but they were about as big as the palm of my hand) in a tank.

<br>

half the tank was built up with big rocks, with 'land' on top and a few plants and logs. the other half was water, and using an eheim 2213 the water was nice and clear, and returned via a rock waterfall in the corner.

<br>

<br>

The frogs were not as easy to care for as fish, i found. you really need to feed frogs live food, which means a mixture of storing/cultivating etc maggots, mealworms, crickets and such.

<br>

<br>

then there's the cleaning... fish tanks have filters which take all the waste away. frogs do big fat smelly turds under logs, beneath plants, in the hardest place for removal generally. if you dont clean em up they will get mouldy and your frogs no longer have a clean home to live in.

<br>

<br>

now to the croaking... i kept frogs back in the days when i lived at my parents place and i ended up getting rid of my frogs (a mate took them for his tank) because i was told it was either me or them, but one of us had to leave.

<br>

lol

<br>

they are nice and peaceful during the day, but as night falls and the whole household is starting to sleep, they will start croaking. but it's ok, as soon as the sun is up they will stop rofl.

<br>

<br>

perhaps the croaking is just some bad luck i had, perhaps i just had 2 sexually frustrated males who were desperately trying to find a mate. but it was pretty noisy at nights.

<br>

<br>

however, they were great fun, and if your tank was to be at the other end of the house from the bedrooms, you should be fine.

<br>

i have a little male Antaresia maculosus, he'd be 2-3 years old now, and i'm wondering why he hasn't grown more than he has. I know they're a small breed, but he'd be struggling to be much more than 50 centimetres.

<br>

I've seen a few full grown ones and they'r emuch longer and thicker - how long will it take my little fella to get to that size??

<br>

<br>

The other thing is - thinking about turning a 5' glass tank into his enclosure - rather than his 2' wooden enclosure - do you guys think the 5' tank might be a bit big for him?? spook him out a bit?

<br>

<br>

Cheers

<br>

<br>

Tristan

</P></DIV><H2>Replies »</H2><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: the reptilian</STRONG><BR><BR>5ft tank shouldn't freak him out to much but it is important to have alot of ventalation as they can get dehidrated very easily.

My concerns with these cages are : overheating due to its relatively small size and the attachment of a hidebox since it's all glass. Can I get away with using a heat mat ?

This is my first snake and I want to make sure everything is ok prior to bringing it home.

<br>

thanks

</P></DIV><H2>Replies »</H2><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: leptomaniac</STRONG><BR><BR>G'day,

<br>

<br>

Pythons can start taking young (4-5 week old) rats at about 70cm. It is always good to challenge your python with larger meal items, fed less frequently, as it keeps the head growing in proportion to the body.

<br>

<br>

Cheers,

<br>

Andrew.

</P></DIV><H2>Replies »</H2><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: GeckoNik</STRONG><BR><BR>Hi DNG,

<br>

<br>

Herps don't need to be fed very often (once every few days) so food costs would be quite low.

<br>

<br>

Here's a care sheet:

<br>

<br>

www.coloherp.org/careshts/beardeds.html

<br>

<br>

Hope this helps -

<br>

Nikki

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Nathan</STRONG><BR><BR>Hey

<br>

i feed both my beardies both my barbata and vitticepts every day or 2....i normlly go through 2 or 3 cricket packs a week which are $5.90 each

<br>

hope this helps

<br>

Nath

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: GeckoNik</STRONG><BR><BR>Hi Guys -

<br>

<br>

You can also breed your own crickets/locusts or feeder roaches for bearded dragons. Apparently feeder roaches are very easy to maintain in culture. They appear to have quite a few advantages over crickets & locusts ie: longer life, easier to culture etc.

<br>

<br>

Culture notes are available at

www.herpshop.com.au/Food.html

<br>

<br>

Hope this helps -

<br>

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: dA nEo GuY</STRONG><BR><BR>thanks for all the help guys.

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: E4G13M4N</STRONG><BR><BR>They also love a bit of salad, pinkies(mice) , bananas, dandilion flowers etc .

<br>

So food costs can be kept at a minimum.. as well as give a healthy balanced diet..

<br>

<br>

^Mark^

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: slotha</STRONG><BR><BR>WOW, i only just found this forum. Good stuff!!! They would probaly eat mealworms to. These are very very simple to breed. Where i live, Bearded Dragons are everywhere. They are really quite inquisitive. At this waterfall i go to, they will literally surround you and just look. They would be a very cool pet. Watch out for their bite though.

<br>

Tim

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: E4G13M4N</STRONG><BR><BR>Mealworms too lizards is like feeding lollies to kids .. All right now and then for a bit of extra protein but no good if based on the main food intake ...

<br>

<br>

^Mark^

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Jelly Bean</STRONG><BR><BR>You don't realy want to feed meal worm to your dragon because the meal worms can eat way at the stomach lining, crickets or wax worms are a little bit better. You should be feed greens on a daily bases. It also maters how old your dragons is becaus the younger the dragons is the more protein it needs, but do not forget the CALCIUM POWDER. They do make great

pets, I have 4.

<br>

<br>

Jelly Bean

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: snakeman</STRONG><BR><BR>beardies are great pets, i have 3 at home and 5 at work(i work at a pet shop). must be nice to live in australia and see them outside. they will eat most anything, i offer crikets and other live foods to mine once a day and leave fresh veggies for them to snack on all day. there are some new bulbs out called active uv heat (zoo med and t rex both make them) and they work really well. a bit expensive but the extra uv exposure make the dragons alot brighter in color and makes them more active.

<br>

<br>

Equipment:

<br>

<br>

1 large funnel (often used for petrol)

<br>

<br>

a container which the funnel can sit on without any gaps round the side and without the bottom of the funnel touching the bottom of the container.

<br>

<br>

a light

<br>

<br>

Method:

<br>

<br>

Suspend the light bulb above the container and funnel outside on a warm summer night. Leave the light on all night.

<br>

<br>

Next morning check what you've caught. there should be plenty of moths and beetles which can be fed to your fish/herp.

<br>

<br>

Mick

</P></DIV><H2>Replies »</H2><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: leptomaniac</STRONG><BR><BR>Thanks Mick! I'm sure that one is very much appreciated! Just to add to that - If your container/funnel have been used for petrol (or any other chemical), make sure they're free of residue before using them to collect pet food!!

<br>

<br>

Cheers,

<br>

Andrew.

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: urodacus</STRONG><BR><BR>Interceptor traps are handy too, mate of mine put an old piece of glass on a stand with an old gutter running along the bottom. Fill the gutter with water and collect the bugs that smash into the glass, from the gutter each arvo. Good for diurnal and nocturnal insects.

<br>

At night we use a mercury vapor tube, a UV tube and a normal white tube under an old umbrella frame. Drape a piece of netting/mesh over the umbrella frame and the insects will land on the mesh trying to get to the light. We use this setup at night when we're doing fauna surveys, does the trick

<br>

<br>

Cheers

<br>

Jordan

</P></DIV><H2>Replies »</H2><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: the reptilian</STRONG><BR><BR>About 50 cms i reckon... because you have a childrens python.

<br>

<br>

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Herpert</STRONG><BR><BR>yeah

<br>

im getting a water python soon

<br>

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: the reptilian</STRONG><BR><BR>for real, where you getting him from, and what are you going to house him in.

<br>

<br>

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: PepperK</STRONG><BR><BR>The general rule i've always been told is to feed them food specimen as big as the widest part of the snake.

<br>

<br>

Works for me : )

<br>

<br>

Cheers

<br>

<br>

Tristan

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: sgrunter</STRONG><BR><BR>I fed my two coastals yesterday with mice I was sure they would reject, but they devoured these bubs with ease!

<br>

My coastals are hatchlings, but I am amazed at the size they can fit in!

<br>

<br>

Thanx Whitey for them, your a ledgend mate!

<br>

Sooty

bj

</P></DIV><H2>Replies »</H2><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: the reptilian</STRONG><BR><BR>

www.snakebreeder.co.uk/html/mice.html

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Herpert</STRONG><BR><BR>thanx alot charlse

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Herpert</STRONG><BR><BR>

how do u tell the gals from the guys?

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Link 2 Hell</STRONG><BR><BR>Q. MOUSE SEXING

<br>

I am thinking about getting a couple of mice for pets how can you tell their sex?

<br>

<br>

A.

<br>

Yes, you can tell sex? when young, males have a longer space between the anus and uterus/penis, and when older, the bulge of the testicles is clear (say, three to four weeks and older).

<br>

<br>

From

Rat and Mouse Club of American

<br>

<br>

L2H

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Herpert</STRONG><BR><BR>thanx

<br>

Thanks

<br>

Tim

<br>

</P></DIV><H2>Replies »</H2><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Memphis Tank</STRONG><BR><BR>I was recently at Macquarie shops and the pet shop there was selling bird eating spiders and the only requirement for them was to be over 18.

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: leptomaniac</STRONG><BR><BR>That's correct. Unfortunately, spiders haven't been considered for protection yet and you are free to keep whichever species of native spider you like.

<br>

<br>

Spiders are, however much more difficult to keep alive than one might think. Bird-eating Spiders should have a lifespan of many years, but due to limited experience of keepers, most end up dying within months of being captive. Funnell-webs are even more sensitive than these. You must recreate the perfect environmental humidity, habitat, etc. for the spiders to survive a good length of time. Feeding them is fortunately not difficult.

<br>

<br>

In furtherance, very little research has been done into the venom capabilities of Bird-eaters... BUT they are known to be very toxic. If you do get one, make the hell sure that you are not bitten!

<br>

<br>

Arachnidally yours,

<br>

Andrew.

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: urodacus</STRONG><BR><BR>People are alot more educated about Australias Theraphosids now than a few years ago, and if Robert Raven gets his way laws will be put in place to protect them. Most of the spiders in petshops are still undescribed, alot being Phlogiellus sp. Without protection, some species could be wiped out before theyre even described by science.

<br>

If anyones interested in scorpions, spiders etc. try these 2 sites:

<br>

<br>

www.groups.yahoo.com/group/australianscorpionclub

<br>

<br>

or

<br>

<br>

www.groups.yahoo.com/group/australiantarantulaforum

<br>

<br>

Yeah, the fangs on one of my spiders are over 10mm long, i make sure my fingers are well and truly out of the way when shes angry

<br>

Im urodacus_au on both sites.

<br>

Cheers

<br>

Jordan

<br>

I am considering getting a couple of Pogona Vitticeps (I think thats it) and i was wondering if I could use a normal fish tank. I have just purchased a standard 4' and a standard 3' second hand and was wondering if one of them would be suitable with a few modifications(heat lamp etc). I know i will need a license for these little guys and if one of the tanks will be suitable for (hopefully a breeding pair) i will apply for it now and have it set up by the time that my license comes. How do I get them to pair up(get 3-4 and will the pair bond??) Thats about all I can think of at the moment but I'm sure there will be more questions

<br>

Thatnks for your time

<br>

Noddy

</P></DIV><H2>Replies »</H2><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: E4G13M4N</STRONG><BR><BR>While they are young the tanks would be ok if you set up the heating right..

<br>

<br>

With glass tanks it sometimes pays to insulate 3 sides of the tank with styro or something similar, or you may find you will heat your room up as well as the tank

<br>

<br>

As for a breeding pair larger vivs would be better ..

<br>

<br>

^Mark^

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: noddyz</STRONG><BR><BR>Hi again

<br>

i thought i would have to do something like that. What size would i need for the breeding pair and to house the young.

<br>

Thanks again

<br>

Noddy

<br>

P.S. I want to find out as much as i can about these little guys before i get any so they have the best chance so any links on this particular species would be appreciated. Thanks

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: africancichlidau</STRONG><BR><BR>When I had my centrals i started them off in glass tanks but found them somewhat unsuitable as the lizards didn't like being on view from all sides, it made them jumpy and they just refused to breed. The tanks were 5foot six long by almost 2 foot wide. I tried insulating the 3 sides more to stop their feeling of vulnerability than anything else but found that the slight mirror effect caused on the glass also unsettled them. OK I thought so i put the poly on the inside and while this was effective they tore it to shreds

<br>

Next I put them, (a breeding trio), into a melamine enclosure measuring 6 foot X 2 foot X 2 foot and they loved it! Both females became gravid in a short time and had healthy offspring. Hope this helps a little? By the way, I am currently experiencing the same with a pair of Shinglebacks in a glass tank so guess who's getting the power saw out this weekend

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: the reptilian</STRONG><BR><BR>i find that they get scared when a big hand comes down from above them. so i find that fish tanks aint the best way to go but if thats all you got then go for it

I've got a pair of these little guys in an 18"x14"x14" at the moment, but i think i'll eventually cut the divider out of the tank, to give more space, do they need it?

I'm using river sand (really coarse stuff) for the substrate, and i plan to add a maiden hair fern, or other small plant. Theres a nice bit of wood in there and i smashed up some slate to make a couple of rock piles, which is where they've taken up. After 5mins in the tank they took turns to scarper under the biggest pile, and they haven't really moved since.

Have i messed up? Have i missed something?

Can someone help me out with species specs? I've only been able to find very general stuff, it's either about Binoes or Leopard gecko's.

<br>

<br>

I figured you guys might be able to help me out here.

<br>

<br>

I found this little blighter on the wall in the garage happily sitting above the fishtanks, and he struck me as being a little odd. He was about 4cm across, only tiny.

<br>

<br>

Can anyone ID him for me?

<br>

Ta,

<br>

<br>

Mark

</P></DIV><H2>Replies »</H2><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: leptomaniac</STRONG><BR><BR>Hey Mark!

<br>

<br>

Long time no see! I have no idea what species your little friend there is... I have a book at home that might ID it, so I'll have a look in that for you.

<br>

<br>

Cheers,

<br>

Andrew.

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Auscanuckafishy</STRONG><BR><BR>G'day Andrew!

<br>

<br>

Thanks mate, it's very much appreciated

<br>

<br>

He's still sitting in the same spot, every now and again he turns to face the other direction. The garage is loaded with bugs though, leaving the door open with the lights on at night does that, lol, so he should have plenty to snack on. As long as the daddy long legs don't get him... do they eat huntsmans? Hope not, hmm.

<br>

<br>

We found a normal brown one about half again as big, I got a photo of him/her too, so if you want to see it just holler. There's tonnes of spiders down here, it's great, found a HUGE female wolf spider the other night, biggest I've seen so far.

<br>

<br>

Mark

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: leptomaniac</STRONG><BR><BR>Hi Mark,

<br>

<br>

I had a look in that book, but I couldn't ID the spider thus far...

<br>

<br>

Daddy Long-legs are, in my opinion, no threat to the huntsmans - in fact, I'd say it was the other way around. Huntsman spiders are named that because they are ferocious hunters, feeding not only on bugs, but other spiders as well.

<br>

<br>

Watch that wolfie - they're a known cause of necrotising arachnidism - a condition you really do not want to experience.

<br>

<br>

I'm gonna try a net search for the greenie.

<br>

<br>

cheers,

<br>

Andrew.

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Auscanuckafishy</STRONG><BR><BR>G'day Andrew,

<br>

<br>

Well if he's going to eat up some of the daddy long legs then that's ok, there's always way too many of them in the garage.

<br>

<br>

Everywhere I've lived has had lots and lots of wolf spiders, I guess I'm just used to them now. Haven't been bitten (yet, touch wood), I'm justkinda used to them being around, I always have to dodge them on the floor at certain times of the year it seems. We used to get a lot of white tips up in Prestons, but I've read that there are arguments as to wether or not they're as dangerous as people make out, all I know is they're tough little blighters, tough as a cockroach but shaped like a spider.

<br>

<br>

Mark

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Auscanuckafishy</STRONG><BR><BR>I just thought of something...

<br>

<br>

Is it possible for him to just be a "normal" huntsman, who has some sort of deformity and doesn't have all the pigment in his skin? Spiders are supposed to be green inside aren't they? (I don't really know). I tried a google yesterday and came up with the giant green huntsman of southeast qld, but it wasn't actually green like this guy.

<br>

<br>

This is the other one christine picked up wandering around the house.

<br>

<br>

Mark

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: leptomaniac</STRONG><BR><BR>He is most certainly a different species Mark. He has slightly different morphology to most Huntsmans I have seen and absolutely MAD colour. I'll see what I can find out - I also know some people down at the Aust. Museum who may be able to ID it.

<br>

<br>

Cheers,

<br>

Andrew.

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Auscanuckafishy</STRONG><BR><BR>That would be great

<br>

<br>

He's wandered off now, so probably won't see the little blighter again. I'm happy just to have gotten a photo of him, very odd little guy.

<br>

<br>

Mark

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: slotha</STRONG><BR><BR>Hi Mark, they definately aren't a Huntsman, however they are from QL. A mate found 1 at his place a couple of years back and was wondering what it was. He ended up finding out and told me but i've forgotten the name now

I'll give him a call and see if he remembers the name. I think they could be slightly poisonous though.

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Auscanuckafishy</STRONG><BR><BR>G'day,

<br>

<br>

I sent the piccy off to Dr Mike Gray at the Australian Museum, maybe he'll be able to help me out.

<br>

<br>

Gday Tim, not a huntsman? I guess i do lump anything that holds it's legs weird like that in with huntsmans. If he's from QLD then he's gone walkabout lol, you're way closer to qld then i am down here.

<br>

<br>

That would be cool if you could find out from your mate what he might be, they might be up and down the east coast.

<br>

<br>

Cheers

<br>

Mark

<br>

north parra

<br>

email if u are interested

<br>

he said make an offer

<br>

thanks Ryan

</P></DIV><H2>Replies »</H2><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: sgrunter</STRONG><BR><BR>If your friend wants to, he can come around and collect my red backs for free?

<br>

Sooty

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: 00 MooRRii 00</STRONG><BR><BR>if he wants some rare perth ones he can come have mine for free too....

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: 00 Electric 00</STRONG><BR><BR>I have 30 in backyard im in perth FREE just for you

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: slotha</STRONG><BR><BR>I used to breed these a few years back

I had the biggest female i have ever seen. She used to breed like crazy and all was fine until i discovered a little hole where they were getting out.

<br>

I ended up getting rid of them soon after but i am still finding them in my room to this day. Lucky their venom works slow.

<br>

Tim

<br>

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: 00 MooRRii 00</STRONG><BR><BR>Doesnt sound like something i would like to wake up too...

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: leptomaniac</STRONG><BR><BR>

<br>

<br>

I can remember being 10 years old and very much in love with my pet female Red Back (

Latrodectus mactans hasselti

). But seriously folks, there are more than enough people out there who would gladly pay to have their Red Backs

removed.

<br>

<br>

For anyone who is thinking of keeping one, I was once bitten by a related species -

Latrodectus geometricus

- and spent an entire week in and out of hospital with repeated bouts of

Anaphylactic Shock.

I almost died three times during that week. The species that bit me is significantly less dangerous than a female Red Back Spider. Yes, the venom usually works slowly, unless you are allergic (as I was). You can't know if you're allergic until you are bitten.

<br>

<br>

Be careful guys! The forum wouldn't be the same without yas!

<br>

<br>

Cheers,

<br>

Andrew.

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: slotha</STRONG><BR><BR>Well i bombed my room twice, but it didn't ever seem to kill them all. I would always find them under my chess and under my drawns

<br>

We have since made an agreement

I will not bomb my room anymore and they may only lay 1 egg sack per annum and may not bite me or any family members

Relatives and friends are excluded.

<br>

Tim

<br>

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: chuckmeister</STRONG><BR><BR>Shared a house a few years back with a couple people. The house was built in the early 1900's and had an awesome 3/4 balcony around the house. Did I say balcony, I mean't to say 3/4 drinkin' platform

Anyway we had a pet monster redback that we fed....came out one morning and it had caught itself a mouse.

The only other thing that compares is when I saw a hornet catch a huntsman

<br>

cheers Charlie

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: meesterclarence</STRONG><BR><BR>On my first deployment to vieques Island, Puerto Rico. We set up camp at night, and started to hear "plopping" sounds on top of our tents, I went outside to look, and tarantula's were dropping out of the tree's onto our tents. I estimate the number to be in the 100's. Along came a spider...............

<br>

<br>

Paul

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: slotha</STRONG><BR><BR>Hey Andrew, what was the species name of the spider that fanged you? Also you wouldn't happen to know the full name of the White Tipped Spider would you? Read an article somewhere how some lady got bitten and her flesh was just rotting away. She survived, but the scarring is insane

<br>

Cheers

<br>

Tim

<br>

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: leptomaniac</STRONG><BR><BR>Hi guys, and special hi to Paul,

<br>

<br>

Tim, the one that bit me was Latrodectus geometricus (The Brown Widow). Normally not too dangerous, but my reaction was an allergic one. I guess I'm allergic to one of the components in the venom...

<br>

<br>

The White-tailed Spider is Lampona cylindrata and has been known to cause a condition, named Necrotising Arachnidism. Do a Google search on it and you'll be able to find out heaps about it. It is usually the Wolf Spiders (Lycosa spp.) that cause the condition, but White-tails have been implicated in a few cases.

<br>

<br>

Wow, Paul! Most people would cringe at the thought of being surrounded by tarantulas, but I'd probably be in heaven!

Wish I was there... Did you take any pics that you could post?

<br>

<br>

Cheers,

<br>

Andrew.

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: slotha</STRONG><BR><BR>Hi Andrew, Cheers for the info. Are the Wolf spiders the ones that have many holes in peoples back yard that people commonly mistake for Funnelweb holes?

<br>

Thanks

<br>

Tim

<br>

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: leptomaniac</STRONG><BR><BR>Hi Tim,

<br>

<br>

Those are the ones... They're attractive little spiders, often seen while gardening. They can be found to wander after turning the hose on a flower bed. People are usually bitten when they don garden gloves which have been left on the ground. Wolfies are not overly aggressive. I'm not sure if the condition is attributed to bacteria on their fangs, or a component of their venom - there seems to be some contention over that one.

<br>

<br>

Cheers,

<br>

Andrew.

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: slotha</STRONG><BR><BR>Just want to clear something up. Is the Black Widow the same as the Red Back? Andrew where were you when you got bitten? It says the Brown Widow is from America. Is it found throughout the world or just US?

<br>

Cheers

<br>

Tim

<br>

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: leptomaniac</STRONG><BR><BR>The Black Widow is the same species as the Red Back, but a different subspecies...

<br>

<br>

Black Widow - Latrodectus mactans mactans

<br>

<br>

Red Back - Latrodectus mactans hasselti (although some taxonomists class it as a separate species - L. hasselti)

<br>

<br>

L. geometricus originated overseas, but has a fairly worldwide distribution now. They are present in Australia.

<br>

<br>

I was at work (at StG) when I was bitten. It crawled out from inside a hole in a rock I was cleaning for a customer. Had me out of action for six days.

<br>

<br>

Cheers,

<br>

Andrew.

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: meesterclarence</STRONG><BR><BR>Hi Andrew. That was about 15 years ago. I do have pictures buried somewhere. I'm getting ready to retire from the Marines, and hopefully can dig them out eventually, and post them.

<br>

<br>

Paul

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: ryan</STRONG><BR><BR>paul that would be great ?

<br>

I have two yellow plated lizards and I've just run out of crickets. I fed them some ground beef which they took quickly. Is this ok for them? What other cheap foods will they except? Thanks for any help you can give.

</P></DIV><H2>Replies »</H2><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: leptomaniac</STRONG><BR><BR>G'day,

<br>

<br>

Ground beef is fine, but mix some vitamin supplement in with it - I suggest ZooMed "Reptivite". Also, make sure you use the ZooMed "Reptisun 5.0" light tube, as the lizards will need the UVA & UVB produced by it. Place the tube no more than 30cm above the basking animals.

<br>

<br>

Other foods you could offer include crickets, cockroaches (where no pesticides are used), earthworms, de-shelled snails, etc. Small amounts of fruit, like banana may be accepted as well.

<br>

<br>

Good luck,

<br>

Andrew.

<br>

</P></DIV><H2>Replies »</H2><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Tit 4 Tang</STRONG><BR><BR>Hey

<br>

you might find it in a warmer spot in the house as they are ectotherms and will look for somewhere to regulate their body heat, you might also find it in a confined space maybe, ect ect

<br>

hope this helps

<br>

T4T

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: the reptilian</STRONG><BR><BR>when they get out they usually are looking for a bit more heat. so look up near the roof on the top of your blinds or something or in a nice warm spot. and oi bradelly send us a pic of your new cage you built.

<br>

<br>

p.s did you loose him or you just wondering

<br>

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Herpert</STRONG><BR><BR>lost him

<br>

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: leptomaniac</STRONG><BR><BR>I had a hatchling carpet escape from its cage once. I got him back in a matter of few days and here's how:

<br>

<br>

* Keep the room door closed at all times and have a draught excluder so it can't get out under the door.

<br>

<br>

* Keep the lights off except when necessary - they are nocturnal and if the room is dark, it will be active. If the animal is in the room, it will show itself eventually.

<br>

<br>

* Leave a shallow water dish out, just in case it takes a while for you find him.

<br>

<br>

Good luck,

<br>

Andrew.

<br>

<br>

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: slotha</STRONG><BR><BR>My mate found his one beside his pool filter. Have a look up surrounding trees to.

<br>

Tim

<br>

<br>

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: E4G13M4N</STRONG><BR><BR>You can also try and put some talcum powder down in the door way areas and see if anything has moved through it ..

<br>

<br>

^Mark^

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Whiteyyt</STRONG><BR><BR>I have (touch wood) only had one escapee a water Python. Unfortunately we had to move 2 weeks after it escaped. I hope the new tennants appreciated him...

<br>

Cheers

<br>

Whitey.

<br>

<br>

<P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: the reptilian</STRONG><BR><BR>

www.anapsid.org/escapedsnake.html

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Herpert</STRONG><BR><BR>hey thanks alot people i put a live mouse in a cage then put plastic bags around it, when i heard the bags move i put on my torch and found him. thanx alot.

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Link 2 Hell</STRONG><BR><BR>Friend of mine lost a Colletts needless to say he didn't tell his mum

<br>

Never found it

<br>

<br>

L2H

As some of you will know, I recently had an infestation of reptile mites in my collection. Two of my pythons had a mild case of mite, but my death adders suffered terribly and I came quite close to losing them. I thought I'd share the experience with you so that you all know what to look out for.

Important:

Never think it won't happen to you. There was no apparent reason for my collection to suffer a mite infestation - my animals are well cared for, and I have always taken basic precautions to ensure disease and mites stay well away. This was my first experience with mites, and it was very nearly a disaster.

What happened:

It began with me noticing that my small coastal carpet was spending a lot of time in his water bowl. This is a well-known symptom of mite, but upon inspection, I couldn't see any on him. The weather was hot then and I just assumed he was doing it to cool down.

Then, my adders, which had always been fantastic feeders, went off their food. I knew it was not at all like them to miss a meal and I called the guy I bought them from. I was told I was being overly worried for nothing - he said that two weeks of refusing food was not an uncommon occurrence and to call in a couple of months if there was still no response.

As it turned out, I didn't have to wait that long - and if I had, I'd be minus two adders! After another 10 days or so, I was checking on them and noticed something moving along the female's head. *Insert rude word here* On closer inspection, I found not a few, but thousands of mites all over the female's body. It was already a very advanced infestation.

I checked the male... Same thing. I checked my small carpets... same thing (but to a much lesser degree). Luckily, the Pale-headed Snakes and big carpets had no signs.

How I fixed it:

I knew a bit about mite infestations, but theory and practice are two very different things. You can know all you like, but you don't truly know until you deal with things.

The first thing I knew to do, was at least correct. I took the affected animals and coated them in olive oil. This suffocates the live mites and they die and subsquently detach from the snake. It's a bit of a "quick fix", and it certainly does not protect against unhatched eggs.

I must have phoned a hundred people that night. I wanted second, third, fourth and thousandth opinions...lol When it finally registered that everyone was recommending the same treatments, I set about trying to fix the problem.

Orange Medic

A herper's best friend (or at least, one of them). I gave my snakes a bath in Orange Medic, diluted at the rate of 1:7 (7 parts of water). The next day, the floor of the cage looked like that scene in "Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom", where the floor is covered in bugs. This was to be repeated five more times, at weekly intervals. Orange Medic is a head lice treatment, available from pharmacies.

Orange medic does not kill eggs, either. The baths are repeated, so that as each egg hatches, the mite larvae are killed. One bath only would have just killed the mites on the snake, but then another infestation would have resulted soon after from the hatching eggs.

Top of Descent

Ever been overseas? If you have, you'd notice that the "trolley dolleys" often walk up and down the plane, spraying this yucky stuff to kill any travel bugs. That's what this is. It's a synthetic pyrethroid chemical that appears very effective against mites, while being apparently non-toxic to reptiles! I bought some. I believe Auburn Aquariums will be stocking it, if anyone needs it.

With this stuff, I sprayed all the cages, with the animals still in them. Again, this does not kill eggs, but it does kill any live mites which are not attached to an animal host - they may be wandering all over the cage - or even the room - looking for hosts. Again, repeated several times at weekly intervals.

Furthermore, I have decided that I will now and always keep a couple of cans of "Top of Descent" handy, and use them as preventative, rather than cure. I will spray my rooms and cages out at regular intervals - and so should you!

The waiting game:

When you've done all you can, you can only sit and wait to see if the animals respond positively. If you got the buggers early, it will almost always be fine. My case, on the other hand, was a particularly nasty one, so I was justifiably concerned.

The pythons bounced back practically overnight. YAY.

The adders took a loooooooong time. No improvement, day after day. And they were so dehydrated, that I was taking them out for long baths every night - and every night they would gulp water for a good 3-4 mins!!!

After another month, the male went opaque. I kept the baths going, as mites cause shedding difficulties. After about two weeks, he shed, all in one piece and looked a lot better than he had for a while. Then one evening, walking past the cage, I saw something exciting... He was luring!!! DOUBLE YAY! I chucked a defrosted mouse in and he wolfed it down - brilliant! He was over it now.

The female was a different story. Even with the regular baths and TLC she was getting, she just kept looking worse. Then, about a fortnight after the male came good, she went opaque. Again, two weeks on, she sloughed the most perfect skin I've ever seen a snake shed. I didn't wait for the luring to start. I defrosted a small rat and offered it. She took it so fast, I didn't even see it!

The end:

Everyone's recovered and eating now. I drank half a bottle of Bacardi Gold Label to celebrate - and didn't even feel bad in the morning! hehe

Some hints:

If any other reptile keepers come to your place, ask them to clean their hands with Aqium Gel or similar before they touch your animals.

When buying an animal, you should be able to see the person's other animals in fine condition - at least make sure they're not soaking in water bowls...lol

Mite eggs are like dust - there may be no one to blame for an infestation. They can come in on a breeze and wipe out large collections if left unchecked.

Keep "Top of Descent" spray handy and use it sparingly every couple of weeks or so - especially during warmer months. It is ok to use inside cages - just do not spray directly onto the animal.

Lastly - for god's sake - listen and make sure it doesn't happen to you. It's a whole lot of stress that none of us need in our lives!

Hope this helps,

Andrew.

<br>

Are these mites or some sort of lice?

<br>

I've looked around a bit on the net and mites are described as black specks - not sand coloured. Does anybody know what they are and of an effective treatment? There were chooks in the adjoining shed for a while with what I think were the same thing on them. Chook lice?

<br>

Any help would be appreciated, regards, Steve.

<br>

</P></DIV><H2>Replies »</H2><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: leptomaniac</STRONG><BR><BR>Hi Steve,

<br>

<br>

They will not be bird lice, but rather Reptile Mites. This mite is specific to reptiles and can take a heavy toll on your collection, if not put in check quickly.

<br>

<br>

Place your animals in pillow slips overnight, every night. Gorged mites will detach from the animal and get caught in the cloth - wash slip immediately in hot water. Rub lanolin onto the animal to suffocate the remaining mites. You will probably need to repeat these steps for two-three weeks.

<br>

<br>

The cage must be thoroughly cleaned, as well. There are mite and lice sprays available from pet shops, which are not harmful to reptiles. Disinfect all cage decorations and remove old substrate. Then spray the bare cage with mite and lice spray. Once dry, rinse the residue away and reset the cage with fresh substrate and clean decorations.

<br>

<br>

In order to prevent recurrence, do not add collected materials to your cage. Buy what you need from a reliable source and where possible, use synthetic materials.

<br>

<br>

Good luck,

<br>

Andrew.

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: MedowieMan</STRONG><BR><BR>Gudday Andrew, thanks for the tips mate. I stripped their tank and disinfected it, chucked all the furnishings and gave them a swim in vegetable oil then wiped them dry (found that one on the web somewhere) haven't seen the little critters since but will also do as you say just to be sure.

<br>

What snakes do you keep?

<br>

Regards, Steve.

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: leptomaniac</STRONG><BR><BR>Hi Steve,

<br>

<br>

Good on you - the faster the response, the better the result. At the moment, I have a Murray-Darling Carpet Python and a Coastal Queensland Carpet Python. I am planning to acquire some Ridge-tailed Monitors and couple of other things soon, though.

<br>

<br>

Good luck with the mite eradication.

<br>

<br>

Cheers,

<br>

Andrew.

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: slotha</STRONG><BR><BR>What size enclosure would you need for the Ridgey's?

<br>

Tim

<br>

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: leptomaniac</STRONG><BR><BR>Hi Tim,

<br>

<br>

As juvies, a 2' enclosure would be fine, but to accommodate an adult breeding pair, you would need something about 4'x2'x2' - just to give them some space.

<br>

<br>

Take care,

<br>

Andrew.

<br>

<br>

There is a red belly black snake that lives in a particular area in my horse paddock. Today my daughter almost trod on it and I was wondering if it would be possible to move it/get it moved somewhere else. I think it usually lives in an old tyre that it's been in before, but today it was sunning itself. I'm also a tad worried about my dogs (not to mention the snake). Any thoughts?

<br>

<br>

Thanks.

<br>

Fiona L.S.

<br>

</P></DIV><H2>Replies »</H2><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: starreys</STRONG><BR><BR>Fiona i found one in the garage out in Glenwood one xmas and called the local snake catcher if you ring Blacktown police they will give you his name and he will come out and collect him.

<br>

<br>

Sarah

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: slotha</STRONG><BR><BR>Shouldn't it be hibernating? He must be abit confused. How big is it? They are a pretty mellow snake and will try its hardest to avoid an incident.

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: leptomaniac</STRONG><BR><BR>Hi all,

<br>

<br>

Red-bellies will interrupt hibernation on sunny days, as their black colour allows for rapid heat absorption, meaning they can remain active.

<br>

<br>

Although, the species is relatively inoffensive and tries to avoid human contact, it will bite if trodden on by accident. If you are fearful of such an incident, call someone to remove the snake for you... Of course, never attempt to catch or kill the snake yourself - this is when almost all bites occur. WIRES will be able to provide the contact numbers for repytable snake handlers.

<br>

<br>

Let us know how it works out, Fe!

<br>

<br>

Cheers,

<br>

Andrew.

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: fiona ls</STRONG><BR><BR>Yes that is what it was doing. When it noticed us it went away but was moving more slowly than it did in the summer.

<br>

<br>

I have another question. I was talking to someone about it and they said that red bellies are inoffensive to people but they are territorial towards other snakes and the presence of a black snake might prevent a brown or tiger taking up residence. Any comments on that? Am I likely to find either of those on the flatland around Richmond?

<br>

Fiona L.S.

<br>

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: jghoward1</STRONG><BR><BR>Red bellies actually eat brown snakes.

<br>

Id much rather have a placed red belly than a aggressive brown.

<br>

<br>

Jon

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Memphis Tank</STRONG><BR><BR>You should be so lucky that this little aussie calls your paddock home.

<br>

<br>

You are likely to get the eastern brown "Pseudonaja textilis" but any tiger snake "Notechis scutatus" that comes your way has escaped or fallen off the back off a truck.

<br>

<br>

The Red belly will become accustomed to you and your activities and will decide to move on, but like people all snakes have different personalities.

<br>

<br>

I once shared a fishing hole with a red belly and it became so accustomed to my being there that we often shared the same logs.

<br>

<br>

However, this was the only snake to ever bite (due to my playing the bare foot bushman) me and after going through all the bother of first aid and venom tests it had not delivered a single drop of venom, and it was more a dont pick me up im fine where i am.

<br>

<br>

Just think two positives (1) You will be rodent and brown snake free

<br>

<br>

(2) Most of us have to wait two years of licensed experience to keep these cute little aussie's.

<br>

<br>

Just watch where you walk and dont mess with it unless you really need to. And if you decide something has to give ditch the horse (LOL).

<br>

<br>

Memphis Tank

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: leptomaniac</STRONG><BR><BR>Just in furtherance... Red-bellies actually prefer to eat frogs, small mammals are second preferance... only occasionally do they eat other reptiles. It is more likely that a brownsnake will eat a red-belly, as brownsnakes' diet consists almost solely of other reptiles, with the occasional small mammal.

<br>

<br>

However, your saving grace is that red-bellies favour different habitat to browns because of their dietary preferances.

<br>

<br>

Tiger snakes have a very similar diet to red-bellies and as such, are found in similar areas. Your saving grace thence is that tigers are also entirely inoffensive and in cases where people are bitten by either species, the snake is certain not to have been the aggressor (it's usually the bitee's fault for interfering with the animal).

<br>

<br>

I have had much experience with these animals and I have often found tigers and red-bellies in close proximity to each other. Brownsnakes, on the other hand, favour different areas. A google search on these species will reveal the same information.

<br>

<br>

Cheers,

<br>

Andrew.

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: E4G13M4N</STRONG><BR><BR>I was at Walkers Flat one year which is on the Murray in SA.

<br>

<br>

While walking around we came across a red belly and brown sunning on the same piece of corrugated iron, both snakes were over 4'

<br>

<br>

^Mark^

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: leptomaniac</STRONG><BR><BR>Of course, it happens that those species are at times found in association with each other, but it is much more common for Red-bellies and Tigers to be found in similar habitat.

<br>

<br>

Andrew.

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: fiona ls</STRONG><BR><BR>I was walking through the paddock and found it dead. It was coiled up on top of a mound of dirt thinly covered with grass, about where I saw it the last time (it was moving that time). It had been dead a few days, was a bit soft, but still in one piece and didn't fall apart when I moved it. It seemed fairly unmarked although there was a grazed bit of skin under the chin. I'm not sure if this was a sign of decomposition or something else. Any ideas what it might have died of? My best guess is that a horse stood on it, but would it have been curled up in that case? It looked like a fairly typical resting snake coil. It was a young snake I think, maybe a metre or a bit over long, and with a slim body.

<p>

Fiona L.S.

<br>

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: leptomaniac</STRONG><BR><BR>It should have been hibernating at this time of year... Sometimes, they will come out on warm days to get the sunlight, but must not remain outside after nightfall. My guess is that it was caught out and died of cold torpor.

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: fiona ls</STRONG><BR><BR>I didn't know that they can die of that. I kind of just thought that they cooled off and then warmed up again. I had definitely seen it out and reasonable active (although a bit slow) on a winter day earlier, a nice warm day. Mind you, where it was, had it been caught out, it might have actually frozen, it was down the bottom on the river flat and it gets HARD frost there. Poor thing.

<br>

Fiona L.S.

<br>

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: leptomaniac</STRONG><BR><BR>May it rest in peace.

<br>

Anyway, my question is this, I have started cooling my Coastals even though the male is coming up to a shed, have I done the right thing? My Bredl's Are staying heated over winter as I want to get some growth on them and they are far to young to consider breeding them yet. So what do you guys think of my decision to cool regardless of the shed???

</P></DIV><H2>Replies »</H2><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: leptomaniac</STRONG><BR><BR>Howdy there...

<br>

<br>

There is no problem with it. Just give the animal a lukewarm bath as it comes out of the opaque phase. Should be no hassles at all.

<br>

<br>

Cheers,

<br>

Andrew.

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: africancichlidau</STRONG><BR><BR>No bath and last night a perfect, well, almost perfect shed. Mustangs a bit stroppy to get in the bath mate but thanks for the advice anyway.

<br>

Thanks

<br>

Tim

</P></DIV><H2>Replies »</H2><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: leptomaniac</STRONG><BR><BR>Hi Tim,

<br>

<br>

I'm going to refer your question to Dr Glenn Shea, head of the Veterinary Faculty at USYD. He is a reptile specialist and the top mind as far as herp vets go. I'll try and get an email response (he would usually reply quickly), but I think it would be better for you to talk to him face to face. He does come to every meeting of the AHS.

<br>

<br>

I'll let you know the response as soon as I have it.

<br>

<br>

Cheers,

<br>

Andrew.

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: leptomaniac</STRONG><BR><BR>Hi Tim,

<br>

<br>

I just received Glenn's reply...

<br>

<br>

He has said that he would need to talk to you in order to ask the right questions about what happened. Do you think you can make it to the next meeting? It is on 27.06.03.

<br>

<br>

If not, I'll have to arrange something else, so get back to me on xxxxxxx during business hours or xxxxxxxxx after hours. We'll see what we can do for you.

<br>

<br>

Did all the turtles come from the same supplier? If so, it may be that they originated from an infected population.

<br>

<br>

Sorry to hear about the problems... We'll help as best we can. Have you asked Craig Latta? Or John Cann? They might be able to shed some light on it too.

<br>

<br>

Cheers,

<br>

Andrew.

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: slotha</STRONG><BR><BR>Hi Andrew, Thanks for the replies. Today i've been ringing round like mad for an answer. I got ahold of a guy from Manly Aquarium and he believes it is a mineral deficency(sp?). I had a read of a book i have by Danny Green, and in a passage of this book he relates the same symptoms to a mineral deficency. I've bought a bottle of Repta-Vite which is a mineral,trace elements solution which he thinks may do the trick.

<br>

They were all roughly 2.5yrs old and hadn't hibinated yet. Would this be a factor to? Anyway he said to lower the level of water in the tank and divide half into an area which has leaf mulch so he has the option of hibinating in the water or in the leaf mulch. The turtles were from different breeders.

<br>

I might send Craig a email asking his opinion to.

<br>

I'll try to get to the next meeting, i'll let you know.

<br>

Thanks for you help mate

<br>

<br>

Tim

<br>

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: slotha</STRONG><BR><BR>Andrew, the swelling has now gone down and all seems fine again. I think i'll give Glenn a buzz anyway to stay on the safe side.

<br>

When i go down to get some leaf mulch, can it be any type(eucalyptus etc)? How deep should it be? And if his in my room, can i still play music and stuff if he goes into hibernation? Sorry for all the Q's, if you can't answer them don't worry.

<br>

Thanks

<br>

Tim

<br>

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: leptomaniac</STRONG><BR><BR>Hi Tim,

<br>

<br>

Glad to hear that things are on the mend... Is there no way that your turtle can live outside? The direct sunlight will mean that he will not suffer from vitamin defficiencies, and he will be generally healthier. Also, if your house is fairly warm, there is no way that the turtle will hibernate. He must be facing the same temperature extremes as those outdoors if he is to hibernate.

<br>

<br>

For leaf mulch, it's best to collect relatively dry material, made up of eucalyptus and other native leaves. These leaves should be sealed in a garbage bag and shaken for a while with a pest strip, to eliminate the chance of introducing nasty pests into the enclosure.

<br>

<br>

If he does manage to slip into hibernation, it should still be okay to play music (although don't play it loud enough for China to hear it...

). Just make sure the cage is well cushioned against the bass vibrations, and the leaf mulch will also offer the turtle some insulation against the noise.

<br>

<br>

Hope all goes well.

<br>

<br>

Andrew.

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: slotha</STRONG><BR><BR>Thanks Andrew, i have recently been looking at some plastic ponds. They were round and about 3mtrs in diameter and about 30-40cm high. Would this make a good enclosure? Or would it be better making it out of brick and sealing the brick? What way should it face? Sorry 1 more Q, If i went with the plastic option, would i leave it about ground or inground?

<br>

Cheers matey

<br>

Oh crap, i just remembered, the Vitamins i bought were out of date by 12months, would this affect the quality of them? If so, i'll take it back.

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: leptomaniac</STRONG><BR><BR>Those ponds are great for what you need... Install them as inground ponds and construct a perimeter fence, enclosing some land around the edge of the pond (they must have land as well as water). Turtles are great diggers, so you'll need to lay chicken wire down flat to stop them digging out of the enclosure. It doesn't matter if the enclosure receives full sun, but make sure there is a permanent shady retreat for the little guy.

<br>

<br>

I don't know how well vitamins fare past their use-by date, so I can't really answer that question. In some instances, companies have a use-by date to sell more product, and in others, it's the difference between a quality product and a useless piece of crud. If it was already past the use-by date when you bought it (and if you kept the receipt), take it back anyway. Stores are not allowed to sell out-of-date products and they MUST replace it for you with a current batch of the supplement.

<br>

<br>

Good luck!

<br>

Andrew.