<br>

<br>

1) Would the chances of these bn surviving improve if I were to move the log with all it's occupants to the 2 foot tank?

<br>

2) I don't know which ones are the parents, only that one is in the log with the fry. Would not moving both parents be a problem?

<br>

3) How likely is it that my well-fed cichlids would try and snack on the fry?

<br>

4) What should I feed the fry?

<br>

<br>

</P></DIV><H2>Replies »</H2><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: starreys</STRONG><BR><BR>well i would move fry and dad to another tank if u can , take the whole log out, feed them pumpkin partially cooked and grounded pellets.They will eventually get snacked on if u dont.

<br>

<br>

Sarah

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: nazm</STRONG><BR><BR>Thanks for the advice Sarah. I'll move them out.

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: fiona ls</STRONG><BR><BR>1. Yes.

<br>

2. The one in the log is the father. As Sarah said, that's the one you want.

<br>

3. Extremely.

<br>

4. To Sarah's list add zucchini, cucumber, silver beet, lettuce, and anything else they seem to enjoy

. You can also add spirulina discs. You need to keep something in front of young bristlenose to eat, basically, all the time. When they are babies they need something to graze on or you may find most of them dying.

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: nazm</STRONG><BR><BR>Gracias Fiona. I've taken all the advice you and Sarah have given me and the little ones seem to be quite safe and happy in their new surroundings. The only problem this has caused is that I've reluctantly moved the fish I had in that tank to my 4 foot tank where one of them (Peacock) is being picked on severely. I'm not sure what I can do. Move him back to the 2 foot tank and he becomes the Apex predator. Leave him where he is and he may not survive too long. Any thoughts??? He has of course found himself a corner to stick to where the others don't harrass him, but I fear he'll just die of misery or starvation.

<br>

<br>

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Anita ozfish</STRONG><BR><BR>Hi Nazm

<br>

With the peacock, you could add some floating pipes to the tank (agricultural pipe from plumbing supply or hardware) - diameter according to size of fish and slightly bigger

<br>

Alternatively, you can go to one of those $2 shops and get a plastic tub about 12x5" or something like that. Get two chunky strips of styrofoam and with some fishing line, tie a piece of foam to each of the narrow ends. This makes a cheap floatie tank and will keep the peacock safe from the others. Make sure the holes are not big enough for the fish to swim through though

<br>

PS this is a good short term solution but is not an ideal permanent living arrangement for any fish

Albino bristle nose eggs are a lot smaller, and the fry very small when compared to "normal" bristle nose cat fish.

This is not a phenomonem I have noted with Albinoes of other species.

Alan.

Species: Ancistrus sp. (There are over 50 species available and at least two here in Australia)

Synoma: Hypostomus temminckii, Ancistrus dolichopterus, Chaetostoma sp., Xenocara sp.

Common name: Bristlenose Catfish

Origin: French Guana, Surinam, North Brazil, Columbia?, Brazil?, South America

Localities/Morphs: Multiple

Maximum size: 12 ? 13 cm

Natural habitat: They live in rivers, however in the dry season the pools they live in almost dry up

Natural foods/prey: Wood, algae, plants? and small invertebrates. They should have access to bogwood at all times as the lignin it contains is essential for their growth and development. They normally do not harm aquarium plants, however they will often remove any algae growing on them

Water chemistry in the wild: 6.5 ? 7.0 pH, Hardness; Soft water Predators: Unknown

Brood size: Usually around 60 but over 100 is not uncommon

Sexual dimorphism: The males will generally develop large bristles. Sometimes even bristles on their bristles as they grow older. The females generally only have a few small bristles, usually very close to their lips

Breeding method: Egg layer. The female is eventually persuaded to enter his cave, crevice, log or whatever. She lays her eggs and leaves. They will breed in any log or crevice provided, I once had a male that bred under a rock that lent against the glass at the front of the aquarium. More suitable accommodations include, PVC pipes (25 mm), clay pots, ornaments with holes that are large enough for them to get into Eg. Ceramic Frogs etc.

Husbandry requirements The males do all of the work here. The male will then stay, protect and ?fan? (water and therefore oxygen) over his eggs until they all hatch and are free swimming. This usually takes seven to ten days. Higher temperatures equal quicker hatching and growth. If the eggs are rejected by the male they can be successfully raised in an egg tumbler, see the DIY FAQ

Minimum tank size: Can be bred in an 18 inch tank but I prefer at least a 24 inch tank, if only a pair is present. I would suggest a three foot tank with other inhabitants

Sex ratio: Bristles can be bred in a harem configuration of one male and up to four females, however the brood sizes suffer and his condition will deteriorate. Caution males may fight between themselves and females may also fight. I have lost three females due to fighting, I may have been unlucky so do not take this as being absolute, they were getting ready to breed

Tolerance of conspecifics: They are very tolerant of each other provided they have enough room and formations to hide amongst.

Tolerance of heterospecifics: These fish are tolerant of just about everything in an aquarium, however do not place fry that are NOT free swimming in with them.

Water chemistry in aquaria: 5.8 ? 7.2 Optimum, Can tolerate much higher pH, up to 9, Soft water through to Medium ? Hard up to 25 degrees dGH

Temperature range: Optimum 22 ?24 degrees Celsius. Can tolerate Temperatures up to 30 degrees for short periods. Highest I have had mine at is 29 degrees with discus

Foods accepted: Bogwood (essential), zucchini, pumpkin, peas, algae wafers. To increase growth rates higher protein pellets and foods can be used however if over fed this can result in stomach disorders

Will or may interbreed with: These fish will interbreed with most other forms of ancistrus, please keep the blood lines pure and do not interbreed

Special requirements: None

Notes

If you are having trouble breeding them, try a large water change followed by shorter periods of Daylight/Artificial light.

These bristles are fabulous fish, they keep my tanks clean and almost algae free. It is wonderful watching them breed and watching the fry grow. They cause no trouble in a tank and once they start to breed it can be difficult to stop them

<br>

<br>

<br>

Any info would be greatly appreciated.

<br>

<br>

Cheers

<br>

</DIV><H2>Replies »</H2><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Anita ozfish</STRONG><BR><BR>HI Andrew,

<br>

well done with the brislenose

<br>

In my opinion, it's that they are dud eggs to start with. If they were good eggs and unfertilized, then they would not be opaque but still have a good solid colour but not develop. Your lack of an obvious yolk leads me to think that the egg was no good to start with.

<br>

Don't ask me why, but it is quite common - I see a lot of clutches that always have some of these - maybe they were in the developing stage when the female spawned????

<br>

Hope this helps

</DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: nogo4u</STRONG><BR><BR>thanks for the advice Anita

<br>

<br>

much appreciated

<br>

<br>

</DIV>

<br>

<br>

my first batch was unsuccessful due to the disappearance of the eggs.

<br>

<br>

but they have bred again, this time i wanted to prevent the same thing from happening.

<br>

<br>

The large male is now guarding the eggs with 2 males and 2 other fenales in the tank.

<br>

<br>

occasionally one of the males goes into the breeding site and stays there for awhile, the large male does not seem to be fighting him off that much.

<br>

<br>

my question is that should i take out everyone and leave the eggs with the father?

<br>

<br>

would my other bn try and eat the eggs?

<br>

<br>

is the other male helping out or upto no good?

<br>

<br>

<br>

Thanx

<br>

<br>

hung

<br>

</P></DIV><H2>Replies »</H2><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: starreys</STRONG><BR><BR>the male bristlenose will guard the eggs so as long as he has a good hiding place from the others , otherwise take the other b/n out .Once they hatch you can move them .

<br>

<br>

Sarah

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: hungsta</STRONG><BR><BR>hi,

<br>

<br>

thanx sarah.

<br>

<br>

The problem happened again, i woke up this morning and found a bunch of eggs on the base of the tank.

<br>

<br>

The bunch of fry had huge egg sacs on them but they werent moving.

<br>

<br>

Does anyone know why my male bn would neglect his own batch like that.

<br>

<br>

Also does anyone know why none of the fry is alive, there was no signs of fungus or amything like that.

<br>

<br>

Thanx

<br>

<br>

Hung

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: petrodes</STRONG><BR><BR>Hi Hung... I use a large shell as a breeding cave for the Bn and have good success... when I see him fanning at the entrance and not eating I move the shell into a breeding cage suspended in the tank...He stays there untill all the fry are free swimming without egg sacks...works well

<br>

Peter

<br>

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: hungsta</STRONG><BR><BR>thanx thats a great idea because the breeding site is a large log in my tank.

<br>

<br>

will look into it

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: ohiltraitor</STRONG><BR><BR>Hey Hungy,,,

<br>

Try this dude,,, Loose the excess males , or segregate the father nozzel with his pad and the young ones, which

<br>

ever suits ya .

....Bare in mind though , that the male does all the hard work, so if ya got to many f/males with him he is constantly fanning eggs,, a little like you doing dishes all day... Anyway's therefore he will be run down over a short period of time and you will risk loosing him,

<br>

he too needs a rest. Good luck.

<br>

phil.

Posted by: Andy J May 22nd 2005 @ 16:45

Hey all

Just starting back in the hobby, and after some info on BristleNose, what price would you pay for a breeding pair(both Normal and others) and the difference between male and females, I have breed E.Yellows and Blues before so though I might try these, also last question, How many pair would you advise for a standard 4FT tank

Thank

Andy

Posted by: mezzacam May 22nd 2005 @ 21:08

Well, Good to see your back in the hobby ^_^.

------

Anyhows, I guess $30 is the rough price for a breeding pair of BN now a days?

As for the other types of bristlenoses (Albino, Orange Spot, Peppermint etc) I really have no idea how much breeding pairs go for.

------

How to sex them :

Males grow large bristles off their nose, which are very dominant.

Females don't grow these bristles, (They may get tiny bristles on the edge of their mouths, but not generally that i've seen)

But basically, once they get to a decent size 5cm+ (around about) You should be able to sex them with ease.

------

In a 4ft, You could keep 2 or 3 (Maybe a couple more?) breeding pairs, given there is enough caves for the males to choose from.

But this depends on how many babies you want them to have lol.

So it's up to your personaly preference on how many you want.

I hope this helps a bit

Cameron.

Posted by: limegirl Yesterday, 03:34 AM

When I was a relative newbie to the hobby I bought two BNs cause I thought they looked cute. When they grew it became apparent that I had two females. A friend had a male that was destroying his planted tank so I swapped one female for one male. At 7cm, about two months later, my "pair" bred, and have been doing so every four weeks for 18months. They are in a two foot community with various tank mates and approx. 80 of their young at various ages and sizes. The tank is a carpet of BNs, and my two keep breeding!

I know plenty of people that have invested in "breeding" colonies, only to get no results.

My suggestion, buy a handful of young, cheap, small fish, say four or five. Grow them up - it doesn't take very long! - and when they are sexable make sure you keep only one male. This, I think, is the key. Males will worry each other incessantly. In fact, they will worry females incessantly too, if they are not distracted with heaps of food, and a cave to call home. The females need a "spot" to live too. Mine has a particular crevice next to the glass. This gives them the security they need to breed.

Once you have set up the tank don't fuss with decor and plants. These fish like to know their territory.

And keep up the bloodworms - the females seem to develop eggs at the sight of them!

Hope that is useful, and good luck!

R

Posted by: merjo Yesterday, 11:45 AM

This may help you...

Information about Bristlenose catfish

The humble bristlenose is one of the most commonly kept aquarium fish. They are a keenly sort after addition to aid in algae control and to form part of the “clean up crew”, consuming uneaten food. There are over 50 species of Ancistrus catfish, some of which are difficult to distinguish from each other. Species identification in Australia is dubious at best and generally speaking the “common bristlenose” is simply regarded to as Ancistrus sp. They are much smaller than their Plecostomus sp. relatives, however their care is very similar. There are many commonly asked recurring questions posted on the forum, so I thought that an article about these fish was in order.

Common Name: Bristlenose, Bushy-nosed catfish and Sucker-mouth catfish

Scientific Name: Ancistrus sp.

Size (cm) M/F: Both sexes can reach a size of 7 inches, dependent on species.

Habitat: Ancistrus spp. originate from the fast flowing tributaries of the Amazon River. Therefore, their home should reflect the needs of this species. The addition of at least one power head assists in providing well-oxygenated water and currents. Being a mostly nocturnal species, dark gravels/sand is a great choice in substrate. The provision of caves and similar structures will aid in providing security. These home sites may include hollow logs/branches, coconut shells, rock piles or artificial items such as terracotta and ceramic pots. Please ensure that appropriate cleansing methods are followed. By nature, these fish rasp wood, therefore suitable pieces should be included. Wood also provides a great medium for algae to grow on.

Temperature Range: There seems to be a bit of discrepancy in the literature that I have read concerning appropriate water temperature requirements. From personal experience, I have kept and bred bristlenoses in water as cold as 18C. However it would seem that they are not happy when the temperature exceeds 27C. The most probable reasons for this would include the positive correlation between temperature increase and oxygen decrease.

Water Parameters: Fairly soft, slightly acidic to slightly alkaline (pH 6.5-7.5) water is preferred. pH and hardness does not appear to be critical for common Ancistrus spp. as this fish is seems to be hardy and adaptable. Black water extract or the leaching of tannins from wood into the water helps to induce spawning in this species. A negative effect of this discoloration means that algae growth is inhibited due to the impenetrability of light. Stability is by far the most important factor to consider with these species. Sudden changes in water condition will result in unhappy fish. Many medications are toxic to bristlenoses so it is paramount to familiarize yourself with appropriate treatments.

Min. Tank Requirements: A pair of bristlenoses can adequately be housed in a 2-foot tank. Depth is not as important as surface area, so a shallow tank will suffice. Décor and water flow requirements have been discussed above. The type of filtration is not important, however it must be efficient. These fish produce a lot of waste through grazing/rasping activity. Lighting is generally regarded as a negative with these fish, however if illumination time is restricted the fish don’t seem to suffer. Many people have said that Ancistrus spp. do not impose upon aquarium plants however I disagree. Delicate plants are especially vulnerable to the rasping action of these fish.

Food: This is by far the most often posed question. By nature, Ancistrus spp. are herbivorous, ie. they require a very high percentage of vegetable matter in their diet. Therefore, their staple diet should consist of a very good quality flake and/or pellet food that is high in vegetable content. Spirulina tablets from the health shop are readily accepted, as are algae wafers. Furthermore, raw or par-cooked vegetables additions should be a regular occurrence (not just as a treat). Examples include cucumber, zucchini, squash, shelled peas, lettuce, Chinese leafy vegetables, spinach, silverbeet, corn etc. Make sure that the vegetables are washed well and weighted down so that they are easily accessible to the fish. Methods of “sinking” vegetables include par cooking (so that they sink on their own), attaching to a rock with elastic bands and spearing the vegetable with a fork and placing it on the substrate. “Lettuce clips” can be purchased from LFS’s. These devices are suctioned cupped to the side of the tank and the food placed in the “peg” mechanism. Many people include shrimp, prawn and bloodworms as part of a balanced diet. However, it is important to remember that the vegetable content must be by far the highest dietary component.

Breeding: Males are easily distinguished from females once the fish attain a length of about 5cm. The males grow bristles along the length (up and down) of their “nose ridge”. Females may grow bristles, but generally they are short and seem to line the upper lip area only. I have never seen forked bristles on a female bristlenose. Females are encouraged to lay a clump of eggs in a sheltered area (such as a cave or inside a log). The clutch is vigorously fanned and protected by the male. It is documented that several females may lay in the same “den” simultaneously, leaving the male to defend many hundreds of eggs at once. Hatching occurs after about 5 days. The fry then attach themselves to flat surfaces like rock, wood and the sides of the aquarium. The yolk sac is consumed after another 14 days or so at which time you can feed them pulverized green flake food or other baby food. A blanched lettuce leaf, spirulina tablets and algae wafers are also a good choice. Young fish consume a lot of food. It is common to under-estimate the requirements of young bristlenoses and starving is a common reason for high mortality rates. I would avoid moving young fish from the parent tank unless they are larger than 2-3cm. It has also been suggested that the young catfish feed upon the excrement of their parents in order to gain much needed gut flora. They do not like sudden shifts in water parameters. If well fed and cared for, these catfish often spawn and raise families in community tanks. The following three links provide some additional information that may prove useful:

http://www.malawicichlidhomepage.com/aquai...trus_breed.html

http://www.malawicichlidhomepage.com/aquai..._breed_pic.html

http://mike-edwardes.members.beeb.net/Ancistrus.html

Temperament/Notes: Generally speaking, Ancistrus spp. are amiable amongst tank mates. Males of these species will often fight, especially when trying to attract females for breeding. Sufficient space and spawning sites (caves etc.) will help to subdue the unwanted attention amongst rivals. I have seen opposing males entangled in each others cheek barbs and this sometimes leads to tearing of the said appendages. Coarse, open weave nets should not be utilized to catch bristlenoses, as they will often become tangled. If a fish does become caught up, simply drop the whole net into the tank and leave it for them to disengage from the netting. If this appears to be hopeless, carefully cut the net, leaving the offending piece of gauze attached to the bristles. Eventually it will rot away. These fish are very efficient algae eaters, however they become lazy with age.

Andrea

This post has been promoted to an article

</DIV><H2>Replies »</H2><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: scitzfish</STRONG><BR><BR>I would say as soon as they have begun to feed normally and they have the colour of their parents, probably a week after becoming free swimming

<br>

Babies are really tough......I once left a few week old babies in an old setup that I was about to break down ie no heater, filteration, light or circulation and they were still fat and healthy 4 weeks later when I discovered them hiding in their cave still

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Craig Douglas</STRONG><BR><BR>What I have done with near 100% success is to remove dad and the babies in their receptacle at day 3 or so after spawning. This simplifies the logistics of moving little ones. I have found they will spawn under normal high Ph and hard water conditions but it is hard to rasie the fry under these conditions, so move them before they hatch.

<br>

Craig.

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: hungsta</STRONG><BR><BR>hi guys,

<br>

<br>

i have bred bn once, i got 40 fry now, and lost a whole bunch of them.

<br>

what i would like to know is...

<br>

Do i have to trigger them everytime i want them to breed or once i have bred them i dont need to anymore.

<br>

Hung

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: wazzablunt</STRONG><BR><BR>Hung,

<br>

<br>

If you have got them to breed just leave them in the same tank as you had them breeding in, they wont need a trigger cause you have already triggered them with watever you put or did to the tank when they spawned the first time. They will just keep on breeding and breeding.

<br>

wazza

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: crusty the clown</STRONG><BR><BR>I have about 40 free swiming fry with dad in a shell in a fry saver net.

<br>

When should I take dad out ?

<br>

Last time I left them in a tank with 2cm electric yellow fry and the bristlenose disapeared over night.They must be tasty

<br>

Thanx Neil

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: hungsta</STRONG><BR><BR>i took dad out when the fry was free swimming... all 40 fry grew fine they are about 3cm now.

<br>

Thanx wazza, good to know you dont have to go through the whole process everytime.

<br>

Another question... How often does your bn breed?????

<br>

Hung

<br>

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: wazzablunt</STRONG><BR><BR>Hung,

<br>

<br>

Bristlenose will breed about 2 weeks after they have bred previously. But be sure to take the fry out when they are free swimming because if you don't it will delay the adults from breeding again.

<br>

wazza

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Willy wombat</STRONG><BR><BR>So what is the best thing to feed the babies. I have 30 in a fry saver at the moment, and they have sucked all the algae off it. I need to know what else i can put in the saver to keep em growing. i was told they need to eat wood?

<br>

Pls help

<br>

WW

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: davidhooton</STRONG><BR><BR>I usually just go and shake the stump that they breed in every 3 weeks, and pull another 40 fry out!

<br>

I have a 1 x 1 tank with about 120 fry in it now

they just keep breeding!

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: fiona ls</STRONG><BR><BR>Give them algae wafers, zucchini, pumpkin, silver beet, lettuce. Mine have enjoyed and grown on all those. I did have a small bit of wood in there with them. They didn't pay much attention to it though.

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: hungsta</STRONG><BR><BR>Damn it,

<br>

Its been over a month for me now.

<br>

I did a large water change the other day and now luck.

<br>

I thought that the female is plump and the water change should do the trick.

<br>

Does anyone knows why my Bn are not breeding regularly like everyone else?

<br>

I have 1 large male and female and another smaller female.

<br>

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: tifkat</STRONG><BR><BR>Hi guys,

<br>

I've been pretty quiet for a whle now.. but I thought I'd drop in and check out the new forum, and share someinteresting news

<br>

My tank has been plodding along since I got my fish at the auction (so long ago it now seems) and all but 1 of them are still alive (wonders never cease!).

<br>

I've been thinking of doing some 'landscaping' of the tank as thinks are still just sitting where I dumped them when I put them in.

<br>

Also one of my lionheads has taken to picking up pebbles from under a minor 'overhang' and moving them out to leave a clean glass floor, so I thought I'd give him a bit of a hand.

<br>

To my surprise when I moved one rock (to move the one from which he has been clearing the pebbles from) I felt something tickle my finger and upon turning it over, theres a boy bristlenose hovering over a bunch of about 20 (rough estimate) little orange balls.

<br>

now I've read enough on these forums to know what that means! They're about the size of a small split pea. Does anyone know how far along these little guys are?

<br>

I have no other tanks (just my 4 footer - my single rented room is too small for anything more) and no special fry enclosures or anything. i doubt that any sort of fry are going to survive in this tank. (4 x P saulosi, 4 x lionheads, 5 x BNs)

<br>

Oh yeah, one of the P saulosi is a nice light shade of blue and regularly has very dark blue bars (they're not permenant yet - do they get permenant?) Another looks to be turning blue, but it's not in any hurry and no show of bars.

<br>

Anyway, just thought I'd let you all know.

<br>

tifkat

<br>

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: hungsta</STRONG><BR><BR>Hey there,

<br>

I guess its time to get a new tank, the eggs are only recently hatch probably a few days. The saulosi blue colour indicates that the male is colouring up and yes it will stay blue and females stay orange.

<br>

HTH

<br>

Hung

<br>

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: tifkat</STRONG><BR><BR>Wow.. I'm gettin excited (and worried at the same time...)

<br>

I saw the saulosi hanging around near the rock.. and I thought something might be up.. I might have progress.

<br>

I've been checking out my resources and I seem to have a container I'm willing to sacrifice, and my fishnet I can sacrifice until I get money to buy a new one, and I have styrofoam left over from when I set my tank up.. all I need is silicone to make a fry enclosure.

<br>

So I decided until I do that and let it 'cure' I need to get them out of there. I filled up my 'fisk tank purposes only' bucket with water from the tank, and moved the rock that they were on, and guess what? They've got tiny eeny weeny little tails!! and some of them were barely attached to the rock, so I moved it to the bucket with the water and a flexible air stonecoiled up and to one side. The daddy BN swam off, but kept hovering around the area to I caught him with the net and moved him too. there's no heater in the bucket though

<br>

So I moved the light to the bucket in the hope that it will keep it war until I can (a) compose some way of letting the bucket sit in the tank, and then I can go ahead and make the fry enclosure. Looks like more than 20 eggs too..

<br>

I hope the move of the rock / dad weren't the wrong thing to do at this stage.

<br>

I'm going to go bug upsatirs to see if they have some suitable silicone (since they bug me at 11pm to fix their computer

<br>

Anymore advice for a first timer in trying to save fry?

<br>

tifkat

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: hungsta</STRONG><BR><BR>You are doing fine mate keep it up.

<br>

To get you even more excited, some people have >100 fry in one batch.

<br>

I cant really give you any advice as i only bred them once (first timer too).

<br>

Goodluck.

<br>

Oh yeah bout the fry enclosure, there are situations where the fish try to suck the fry out of through the net and that you definitely need to keep an eye out. Some people have lost their babies this way.

<br>

HTH

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: tifkat</STRONG><BR><BR>Sweet!

<br>

I searched the web a bit and found quite a few people who relocated the pipe/rock/log + dad where the eggs were laid around day 3, and then removed dad after they hatched.

<br>

So once my fry saver was dried, I re-located my school into the fry saver and returned rock and dad to the tank. I located the saver so that the flow from my Aquaclear 500 flowed over the area where the newly hatched babies were.

<br>

This morning they look more brown and the yellow sack is hardly noticeable. I'm looking forward to see how much they've grown by the time I get home tonight

<br>

I guess I better buy a 2 footer with filter and heater to put these guys in within the next week. Anyone selling?

<br>

Also read a number of people who use canned beans / peas or the traditional zucchini to feed the babies. So I guess I better go shopping with some of that sort of thing also.

<br>

tifkat

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: hungsta</STRONG><BR><BR>Did you do a head count???

<br>

I guess as the bn multiply so does the tanks.

</p></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: tifkat</STRONG><BR><BR>Yeah.. about 1/3 of them made 20.. so I'm estimating 60.

<br>

HAven't gotten a tank yet. Might have to pay some 'real money' ™ and go to the LFS *shudder*

<br>

I might also drop a line in the classifieds forums to see if anyone has something they'd sell me this Sunday.

<br>

tifkat

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: diverdowntown</STRONG><BR><BR>Hey dude. You can let those little dudes loose within a week or two. They'll be cool. I'd feed them anything that has veggies in it. Pretty rad littles dude's huh. Far out little cats. Take it easy man.

Any info would be much appreciated

<br>

<br>

Anthony

</P></DIV><H2>Replies »</H2><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: nornicle</STRONG><BR><BR>dont change the water for a few weeks @ 28 degrees water temp,

<br>

<br>

then do a 60-70% water change with cooler water (maybe 24 degrees) and put your heater at 26 degrees, preferably when there is rain or a storm approaching..

<br>

<br>

it worked for me anyhoo

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: yevrah</STRONG><BR><BR>I did the same thing recently, let the water go a little bit more stale then normal, feed only every second day for about fourtnight. Then do a major water change at lower temperature and increase the feed.

<br>

<br>

good luck,

<br>

harvey

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Alan Caboolture</STRONG><BR><BR>These days I do nothing more that waterchanges and syphon the substrate and make sure they are well fed. They spawn when they feel like it. I have four 4x2x2tanks, 3mm gravel over U/G filters with 2 x 32mm air lifts, and 12 to 16 bristles in each tank. There is ALWAYS one or two males brooding eggs in each tank.

<br>

<br>

20 odd years ago when I was trying to figure out these fish I kept individual pairs and a log book. Under optimum conditions females spawned every 45 days, never less. Never spawned in temps above 26C (22 - 24 best results), pH or Hardness didn't seem to matter (from 6.6 to 7.4 pH) and what ever came out of the tap.

<br>

<br>

They are fairly precocious and even small fish will spawn, they don't have to be whoppers ( I have had BN spawn in grow out tanks when only 6 months old). IMO, the most important factor is feeding. Ripe spawning females absolutly bulge and to do this on a veg diet takes a lot of food. - Tip ! a little high protien food once or twice a week.

<br>

<br>

Mind you, in the late 1960's when we were trying to breed wild caught fish was a different story, but these days, after so many captive bred generations they will breed on a wet dinner plate.

Could someone please let me know the approximate time in days it takes for BN's to go from egg to free swimming. Not a pinkish free swimmer but have basic dark body colour.

cheers

glenn

<br>

<br>

I have a batch of Bristlenose fry (yolk sac almost consumed). What are my options in terms of feeding for best growth and health.

<br>

<br>

Cheers.

<br>

</P></DIV><H2>Replies »</H2><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: 00 MooRRii 00</STRONG><BR><BR>You can feed them a number of things. Zuccini, blanches lettuce, cucumber, peas or you could use sinking algae wafers

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: DFishkeeper</STRONG><BR><BR>Add pumpkin to that list. slice it with a potato peeler & zap it for 1 minute in microwave. It will sink to the bottom & Bristlenose fry love it.

<br>

<br>

Cheers, Doug

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: GQRuff</STRONG><BR><BR>Thanks for the info

<br>

<br>

Zuccini and pumpkin worked fine.

<br>

<br>

Cheers

~GQRuff~

<br>

<br>

It seems that I have purchased some L104's. ,

According Planet Cat they are

"A wood-eating fish, the tank should be decorated with several different types of driftwood. These fish really like to have something to chew on and squash, cucumber, and other vegetables should be readily available to them (yams are a favourite). Supplement two to three times weekly with frozen foods."

Does anyone have anything else to add to their feeding or other requirements for that matter? What should they be fed with?

PS. Maybe these could be added to the FAQ archives

Are all peppermints finicky eaters - I have had mine for 2 years and still have trouble providing them food that they seem to enjoy - not like all my other catties

Any suggestions

cheers

I gather that sexing has to do with the head shape but as I can't find any good pics to pickup on the finer points I'm still having trouble.

To the end of educating myself (I dont know if anybody else is still confused) here are some pics of 3 of my 4 peps. Could somebody please sex them for me!!!!!

All three have been in my 8x2x2 and were subdominant to a pair of normal bristlies that is why the fins are a little frayed and it may be influencing bristle development.

Pep 1, still relatively small (2.5 in)

Pep 2, (3.2 in) seems to be the larger of the subdominants

Profile of Pep 2 showing nose-bristle development

Pep 3 largest (3.5 in) and seems dominant, has similar but slightly longer bristles than Pep2

Pep 4 is the smallest and fastest (thats why there is no photo of it) and is still in the 8x2x2. The pictured fish are now in their own 4x15x18 and will have 2 very female looking adults (3.5in) introduced in the near future (hopefully my next breeding project).

Thanks all

-worm-

PS as well as sexing them could you say why you think what you do? Cheers

<br>

Thanks,

<br>

Huy

<P><STRONG>Author: wazzablunt</STRONG><BR><BR>Huy,

<br>

The two species should be fine together, the bristle noses are very good at cleaning the algae so if your pleco isnt doing its job well enough. (If you think that its not eating the algae enough, maybe try feeding them less so it gets hungry). Also, get a few and when they grow up you might end up with a pair or trio that could provide alot of fry!.

<br>

wazza

<P><STRONG>Author: huyey</STRONG><BR><BR>Hi Wazza,

<br>

Thanks for the advice. I bought the pelco about 2 weeks ago and have not fed him any of the foods that was suggested on this site (such as zucchuni, pumpkin or wafers), only letting him graze on the algae. However, there still seems to be still some algae left (which is not alot). Anyway, I will buy some bristle nose.

<br>

Thanks,

<br>

Huy

<P><STRONG>Author: wazzablunt</STRONG><BR><BR>It's good to know that your Pleco is doing its job. I would expect it to be eating a good amount of algae even if you were overfeeding it just a little bit. Remember that the Plecos get very big. So in time it may be better for you to buy a bigger tank. But your tank should be a good size for a long time.

wazza

</DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: OLD</STRONG><BR><BR>They'll be fine,i grew my common pleco up to 23cm along with 4 bristlenoses in a 4footer without any problems but when added my 25cm Gibbiceps the common pleco didnt like it,there was no aggression but you could tell he didnt like the newcomer in his tank

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: huyey</STRONG><BR><BR>I did not realise the common pelco could grow that big in a 4 footer tank. OLD, what are you feeding your pelco? I might get the same stuff for mine.

<P><STRONG>Author: OLD</STRONG><BR><BR>I feed them zuccini pieces,use a small rock with a rubber band to hold the zuccini on. Ive found that most plecos will grow to almost max size regardless of tank size:)^l

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: huyey</STRONG><BR><BR>How did you prepare the zuccinni? Did you have to cook it or anything? I gave mine cuccumber but he did not even touch it.

<P><STRONG>Author: c2105208</STRONG><BR><BR>I have found the bigger the pleco/ BNs get, the lazier they get at keeping things clean or the more picky towards which type of algae they will eat.

<br>

It's for this reason that I generally end up swapping my BN's as they get real big (or selling them) in place of smaller baby ones which go for their life on the algae!

<br>

As for compatibility -- *shrugs*

<br>

Cheers,

<br>

Adam

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: OLD</STRONG><BR><BR>I usually just cut the zuccini in half lengthways then in half again atlhough it depends on the number and size of your fish but it doesnt take long to work out how much is required, i give them as much as they can eat in one night. I cut the skin off but you dont have to,i then rinse it under hot water and put it in the tank. In my experience it takes a couple of days before they will begin to fed on the zuccini/cucumber but once they do theres no stoppin 'em.

<br>

What kind of foods do they eat?

<br>

Do they go well into tanks with other fishes? say for example south americans?

</P></DIV><H2>Replies »</H2><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: YeW2001</STRONG><BR><BR>Hi FishFan -

<br>

Salmon cats are quite peaceful - but they are highly predatory in that if it is a small fish they will consider it a prey item. Larger fish IME are completely ignored by these fish. So they do ok in community tanks with larger fishes (large south american cichlids, silver dollars etc).

<br>

</DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: junek</STRONG><BR><BR>i had a salmon tail, i got it at about 5cm and it lived its life on one side of the tank. it would swim around in circles with its nose against the glass all day! as it grew, it kind of grew out of this behaviour, but it always had one area of the tank it would stick to.

<br>

they are a pretty cool fish - they get to know u and will stick their head out of the water at feeding time for more attention / food. be careful, tho, they grow BIG, QUICK!!

<br>

i fed mine sinking tablets for bottom feeders, and they scavenge around for leftovers.

<br>

hope this helps

<br>

jamie

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: hungsta</STRONG><BR><BR>I had one,

<br>

They never use to chew

<br>

I kept it for only a short period of time and it grew to 15cm.

<br>

And they eat alot, i would always try to feed extra for my other bottom feeders but the salmon would keep eating.

<br>

Great fish if u have space

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: The Cichlid Man</STRONG><BR><BR>When they get older they tend to do that, can also depend what is in the tanks with them.

<br>

>

Regards,

<br>

Ben

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: gianniz</STRONG><BR><BR>mine gets startled every now and then and it upsets me greatly!!! it goes berserk and distrupts the whole tank.

<br>

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: moscowoscar</STRONG><BR><BR>i just gave mine to a mate for his new tank and mine would never stop going up and down the glass all day all nite long even my mate says damn that catfish is very active

Species: Family name:- Mochokidae. Synodontis multipunctatus

Synoma: Many Spotted Catfish

Common name: Cuckoo Catfish

Origin: East Africa

Localities/Morphs: Endemic to Lake Tanganyika

Maximum size: Up to 6 inches

Natural habitat: Any type of rock layout, waterweed plantation and gravel substrate Lake Tanganyika has to offer.

Natural foods/prey: Like most catfish these are also nocturnal so they prefer to feed at night on anything they can get their mouth around such as sleeping or dead fish and an array of small crustations and worms.

Water chemistry in the wild: 8 - 9.4 ph, hard, alkaline water.

Predators: Cormerants and large fish predate on these slow swimming fish but soon spit them out as they have sharp barbs that lock out fast to stop enemies from swallowing them.

Brood size: Up to 100 eggs can be laid in a single spawning.

Breeding method: Uses the cuckoo method, see notes .

Husbandry requirements

Minimum tank size: 4 in a 3 foot tank would be ok until they were fully grown then a 4 foot would house them for good.

Sex ratio: 1 male and 1 female but groups work too and preferably 8 female cichlids to 1 non aggressive, male, mouthbrooder cichlid. The Haplochromine species from Malawi and Victoria work well as hosts.

Tolerance of conspecifics: Can be aggressive towards other Syno`s at times.

Tolerance of heterospecifics: males will occassionally fight

Water chemistry in aquaria: A hardy catfish but hates the cold, will tolerate 7 - 9.4 ph with plenty of airation and to breed prefers regular water changes.The cats also have a large bio-load especially if you are using the group technique.

Temperature range: 26 is perfect but will be fine inbetween 22* c - 30* c

Foods accepted: Pellets, flake, spirillina, ejoys brine shrimp, live blackworms and is very fond of bloodworms and earthworms.

Special requirements: To condition these fish for breeding, frequently feed them a varied diet, including bloodworms and earthworms and keep their water clean.

Notes Ctenochromis horei seem to be the prefered host for the Synodontis multipunctatus in the wild as they have been recorded to have had more catfish fry than any other cichlid in Lake Tanganyika.

Synodontis multipunctatus are cuckoo`s, so to breed, they need a host. A swarm of S. multi`s will hone in on mouthbrooding cichlids while they are breeding. While dashing past stealing cichlid eggs, the catfish also leave their own eggs. The cichlid then unknowingly picks up the parasites` eggs to nurse them in her mouth, this happens over and over until the cichlid stops picking up eggs. Within 48 hours the catfish eggs have already hatched and within 4 - 5 days they young cats begin to devour anything they can, baby catfish (kitten canibalism) or cichlid eggs. By day 14 there are only a few catfish left but they are plump and can already defend themselves against large fish by locking open their sharp spines.

More and more people over the last few years have had the luck of seeing the Cuckoo catfish breed in their home.

They make cichlid keeping even more challenging and fun.

The article and photographs can be viewed on the Sydney's Cichlid Page web site.

Synodontis multipunctatus - Cuckoo Catfish

This post has been promoted to an article

If it is,1) has anybody seen them before, 2) how common are they and 3) could anybody explain the lack of melanin on the skin but not the eyes (genetically speaking).

Cheers all,

-worm-