<br>

<br>

Also what sort of re-inforcements need to be built into the corners, I was planning on using strips of off cut glass.

<br>

<br>

And how trust worthy should I be of the final product? has anyone ever had or heard of an aquarium silicone disaster.

<br>

<br>

I wouldnt mind building a 6x2x2 also, would the glass thickness vary as compared to the 8 footer. My dovii and fronnies will appreciate the advice.

</P></DIV><H2>Replies »</H2><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Mazimbwe</STRONG><BR><BR>Will 11mm be thick enough?? I would want the base to be made with thicker glass if I was commisioning the tank from you...maybe 20mm base. I'm not sure about the rest but my 6ft'er is made from 10mm glass frony, back and side...just not the bottom.

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: sgrunter</STRONG><BR><BR>8x2x2 and 6x2x2 are 10mm all round!

<br>

I have had no problems with mine!

<br>

A thicker base would certainly be preferred-12mm or 15mm max!

<br>

All the best with this endevour mate!

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: c2105208</STRONG><BR><BR>Sooty is right on all glass sizes

<br>

<br>

For an 8x2x2 10mm will do, 12mm base preferred but you can get away with a 10mm... Corner reinforcements aren't necessary if constructed well. You will need two top braces around 350mm wide (dividing the top of the tank into three access ports).

<br>

<br>

Good luck on your project! The art of tank building is certainately one to master, and I admire your courage!

<br>

<br>

Oh, and while I'm here... Anyone know where to get cheap glass for tank building? Best I could find was 10mm for $110/sq metre! By the time you do the maths, it's cheaper to get one built for that price...

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: JonFishin</STRONG><BR><BR>I'm from a lot smaller communtiy (12k) lol and we are family friends with the local glass repairers so I have built all my tanks myself FOR FREE!

<br>

<br>

My display tank is 4x4x2 6mm glass with the 6mm bottom, the dude gave me the glass, angle and silicone for my b'day n me n a mate built it.

<br>

<br>

But I recently went back lookin for offcuts for a 3' and he had an old 6mm shop front that he just gave me. The glass was still in good nick so try askin ur local glass repairs shop, if they don't give it to ya I'm sure u could it a lot cheaper. Might work out well if u wanted that thicker base too.

<br>

<br>

HTH

<br>

<br>

Jon

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: c2105208</STRONG><BR><BR>Ohhh, free. I'm envious...

<br>

<br>

$110/sq meter made building my 5x2x2 approx $450 for the glass alone..... eek... I can buy one for less than that

<br>

<br>

I know its a mess now , but give it a few weeks, I had to take 4 ute loads to the tip to get in this far. At the moment the three walls are packed with foam, about 100mm thick. I am giong to build a false wall that will close the room in, and then put a roof on it all. the room all up should measure 2.4x3.6

now electrics is sorted, Ive got a mate who is sparky. another mate who's a boilermaker and his doing my stands. I am planing on 12 four foot tanks and 6 three foot tanks all on racks three tiers high.

Filters will be mostly air driven either undergravel or corner/sponge typefilters.

Heating hasn't been sorted yet but were hoping that a small heater in the room should be fine in winter. Open to suggestions on this one.

I still have room for two 200L water containers and shelving along one wall.

I have the room sorted

A few questions

-Do i need to line the inside walls to cover the foam? I know it will look better, but do i need to do it?

-I am thinking of getting a LP60 or a LP100like this. should I just get the biggest one? Also are these a good pump?

I think, but I am open to suggestions on anything I have missed or anything I have got wrong.

Josh and Evelyn

<br>

<br>

Who can give me some comprehensive instructions online?

<br>

<br>

ps. This is will look good in the forum FAQ later...

</DIV><H2>Replies »</H2><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: aquaclear</STRONG><BR><BR>..number one, and probably most important is to ensure you angle the cutter slightly and use one fluid motion with firm pressure...takes practice! PS don't skimp on cheap tools, get a good cutter, and if you hear crackling sounds your pressure is too firm.....HTH good luck

</DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: airfish</STRONG><BR><BR>If you have a bit of time to spare come down home and i will give you a quick lesson.

<br>

<br>

Nigel

</DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: o BaZ o</STRONG><BR><BR>

<DIV id=quote>Quote:This is will look good in the forum FAQ later...</DIV><BR><BR>

<br>

@ Ducky

<br>

<br>

</DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Anita ozfish</STRONG><BR><BR>Hey John,

<br>

If you get to the next meeting in November, one of the instruction tables will be on cutting glass and making tanks

<p>

<br>

electral@bigpond.com

|

web

|

Sydney, Australia.

</DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: ducksta</STRONG><BR><BR>Hmmmm... I already remembered how to cut glass, been doing it all day...

I had a brain wave after I posted

<br>

<br>

Still, I was hoping someone would be able to word it better than me. (so I could put it in the FAQ

)

<br>

<br>

Actually, any experienced glass cutters know any tricks to taking off small portions of the glass? I need to take 2cm off a large sheet of glass, and I know this is usually difficult, so I'm hesitating in actually doing it.

</DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: danceswithdingoes</STRONG><BR><BR>and tap from the bottom not the top

</DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: airfish</STRONG><BR><BR>To cut a 2cm strip of glass you need a good oil cutter and a pair of glass pliers then it is no problem.

<br>

<br>

Nigel

</DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: ducksta</STRONG><BR><BR>I think Id be better off buying a piece of glass that doesnt need to be cut and keeping this one for a rainy day

</DIV>

<br>

Adam

</DIV><H2>Replies »</H2><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: dodol</STRONG><BR><BR>Hi,

<br>

<br>

I used a jigsaw, or steel saw on a 3-4mm perspex. Don't rush the job, otherwise you may break it.

<br>

<br>

HTH,

<br>

<br>

DD

</DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: mbuna1</STRONG><BR><BR>i worked with some perspex in high school. we used a small jigsaw. be careful as it scratches easy.

</DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: apINconcord</STRONG><BR><BR>Thanks guys, Ill try the jigsaw first then the old hand saw if that fails.

<br>

Cheers

</DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: c2105208</STRONG><BR><BR>Jigsaw works well.... but as said, scratches easy too.

<br>

<br>

Alternatively get a very sharp stanley knife and a steel ruler, score along the cut many times (first time is hardest and most important)... and then set up on a straight edge. Apply pressure quickly and it should snap along the line - nice straight cut, though not always a square break. I've found this method the best so far after a lot of practise to get it just right and learn the little tricks.

<br>

<br>

Cheers,

<br>

Adam

</DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: hoolig</STRONG><BR><BR>I bought two cut to size sheets the shop cut it with a circular saw it was 4mm thick.

</DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Harward</STRONG><BR><BR>I use perspex all the time (

My Bussiness

) and i find a circular saw usually works best, have a go at plaining(planing ?) the edges if you want them nice, will come up good if you have a nice sharp blade and take small cuts. A propane flame will also make the edges nice and smooth.

<br>

<br>

<br>

Might have to try the score and snap method next time........

</DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: c2105208</STRONG><BR><BR>Oh and i forgot to mention..

<br>

<br>

If the perspex does not still have its protective paper on it, around where your cut is apply a very sticky masking tape (not the painters type) to both sides and mark the tape where you want the cut. If you're using a jig saw this can reduce the scratching, and it can help with fragmenting or chipping around the edges where using more robust methods (circular saws etc).

<br>

<br>

Cheers,

<br>

Adam

</DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: colfish</STRONG><BR><BR>Hi Harward

<br>

maybe not quite injection moulding, but do you have any clues on sticking the awfull stuff together

<br>

colfish

</DIV>

Does anyone know of any cheap tool to make a clean cut on polystyrene?

Obviously a stanley knife does the job, but it's rarely a clean cut and sometimes leaves tiny bits of polystyrene everywhere...

When I was in primary school some kid made his own do-it-yourself ploystyrene cutter and everyone thought he was a legend. The tool used thin wire and passed heat (via low voltage?) through the wire to act as a cutter....

Any ideas?

Thanks

Richard

<br>

what is the best way and neatest way cutting

<br>

terra cotta pots ?

<br>

thanks

<br>

craig

</P></DIV><H2>Replies »</H2><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: danceswithdingoes</STRONG><BR><BR>Tile cutter (powered)

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: chorrylan</STRONG><BR><BR>I use an angle grinder (ermmm and usually with a metal-cutting blade 'cos I'd have to actually find a masonry one and put in it)

<br>

<br>

Don't know if it's particulary neat or cheap (using the correct blad would probably be more efficient) but it works and it's neat enough for me... but then I only know how to use two tools and the hammer definately won't work

<br>

<br>

<br>

Laurie

<br>

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Rumpig</STRONG><BR><BR>Gidday,

<br>

I have actually had great success making holes in terracotta flower pots with a hammer and chisel but if you don't have patients DON'T TRY IT!! LOL

<br>

<br>

I usually use a hacksaw for my pots, cuts a nice, smooth entrence, only problem is you usually use a blade per pot or there abouts (that's the problem when you use the wrong blades

).

<br>

<br>

And always sand the edges down, just in case.

<br>

<br>

Mick

<P><STRONG>Author: Bilby Junior</STRONG><BR><BR>l used a carbon rod in my hack saw, multi directional

<br>

avilable at all hardware stores, oh and soak it for two days prior makes it easier.

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: burundi 6 bar</STRONG><BR><BR>to put holes in a pot i use a die grinder with a grind stone.to cut[ what is there to cut first].but if you need too a masonary disc on a angle grinder would be best.

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Other Ed</STRONG><BR><BR>Hi,

<br>

Hacksaws work great. I had soaked the pot for a few days first. The cut edges will require filing or sanding.

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Dave</STRONG><BR><BR>i use needle nose pliers and start at the hole and work my way out breaking a bit at a time - ends need to be filed - i then silicon an open one to an unopened one - works pretty well - easier to catch fish when they are in their as well

<br>

<br>

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Rumpig</STRONG><BR><BR>Dave, how well do those caves work!

<br>

<br>

I've got one with my Pelvicachromis and they love it, I wrapped it in java moss so now it just looks like a bit ball of the stuff, you can't see the sides of the pot any more.

<br>

<br>

As for soaking, I've never bothered and never had any trouble, I reckon it just makes it harder if you're cutting them with a hacksaw.

<br>

<br>

Mick

Thanks.

Fishy Bits

I understand the basics:

Pump in sump pushes water simultaneously to all tanks on system.

Each tank overflows and sends water back to the sump where it passes through filter media and starts the cycle again.

For getting the water from the pump to the tanks I am undecided whether to use the rigid white pipe you find under the sink, or something more flexible like oversised canister filter hose. Do any of you lean either way on this one for any reason?

Coming from the tanks to the sump I was just going to use the rigid white stuff.

At this stage I am picturing a hole in the back of each tank for an the overflow, and a bulkhead fitting will allow water to pass down into the drain pipe back to the sump. Notice in the top view (below) I will be sitting the tanks sideways to normal, to be able to squeeze a few more in.

The 2nd pic below shows the proposed placement of pipes in each tank. The 'out' pipe is in the middle of the back panel, right at the top. The 'in' pipe comes in through the lids, on an angle which will get fresh water to the front of the tank and avoid dead spots.

Do any of you have any ideas, suggestions, criticisms?

I'd rather learn now than in 6 mths time when I find it's not working the way I hoped it would.

I couldn't post this in the relevant area, so I thought what the heck, I'll post it here. Essentially this is my first attempt at a 2ft background. It consumes some tank space, but I reckon it looks pretty good for a first timer. As you can see it's not complete yet (I had to hack at it to get it in), but it gives you the idea. Let me know what you guys think, I'm always keen to get feedback on my DYI jobs.

Cheers

<br>

<br>

i notice a lighting warehouse near where i live, so i would like to assemble together a 3ft double globe light..........

<br>

<br>

I have no electrical knowledge at all so can someone guide me through it and pics of lights that you have made would be great.

<br>

<br>

Thanx

</P></DIV><H2>Replies »</H2><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: searlesy</STRONG><BR><BR>Mate, its very simple. When you buy a double flouro batten, it will cost less than $25, usually with a pair of cool white tubes, which arent of much use for a fish tank, but fine for your house if you have a fitting. The batten wont be wired up, if you take the cover off, there will be a plastic fitting with three screw that you need to connect up to a 3 pin plug, which you can just buy a cheap extension cable and chop the end off and wire it up.

<br>

<br>

I have done this before, but I am not an electrician, if you have a mate that is a sparky, it will literally be a 5 minute job for him to show you how to do it.

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: eedward</STRONG><BR><BR>sounds easy enough to do!

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: hungsta</STRONG><BR><BR>Sounds easy..

<br>

i will give it a try and im also thinking of a timer and getting some fluoro globes there too.

<br>

<br>

Any advice??

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Baz</STRONG><BR><BR>I make my own lighting reflectors from timber. They are similar size and shape to the lights you will buy from your lfs, and I just buy a domestic fitting like has already been discussed and mount it in the reflector.

<br>

I's a much cheaper option, which works much better in my experience.

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: fiona ls</STRONG><BR><BR>Also sounds like it might be attractive, esp. if you stained the timber to match existing furniture/the stand. How do you get the reflector bit operating? Paint the interior white? Got any pics Glenn?

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: hungsta</STRONG><BR><BR>Hey guys,

<br>

<br>

i have done some research.....however most of the stuff i have read is related to building lights from scratch like buying ballasts, starters, end caps etc....

<br>

<br>

i have decided to buy the 3ft twin fluoro batten and attach it to the wood reflector mentioned by baz... and also have the would lined with mylar in the inside as a reflective material.

<br>

<br>

What do you guys think?????

<br>

<br>

Mylar is found in hydroponics store and looks like this....

<br>

mylar

<br>

<br>

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Davo67</STRONG><BR><BR>Hungsta,

<br>

<br>

I lined my 4x2x2 light hood with mylar and the difference in regards to the original lining (white film) was amazing. I just bought some spray on adhesive from a hardware shop (don't buy the cheap stuff, 3M is the best) and stuck it on. I got my mylar from a hydro shop at Bondi Junction for $6 a metre. The roll is about 2ft wide.

<br>

<br>

Dave.

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: hungsta</STRONG><BR><BR>Hey guys,

<br>

<br>

thanx for the info dave...will add the spray on adhesive to the list...

<br>

<br>

I have been to several lighting places today and they do not carry a double fluoro batten for a 3ft... apparently it is not a very common size. Does anyone know a lighting place that has 3ft size???

<br>

<br>

Also i have seen 30w nec triphosphor tubes for $12 and nec biolux that was labelled 'for fish' and it was $15.

<br>

<br>

I also saw phillips triophosphor at $6 but they do not have 30 ones.

<br>

<br>

What do you guys recommend i do???

<br>

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: hungsta</STRONG><BR><BR>Oh yeah i also saw 2ft double batten for $27

<br>

and 4ft for $35.

<br>

<br>

I did see one 3ft but it wasnt a bare batten and it had a cover on it. Do you think i can buy that and remove the cover????

<br>

<br>

<br>

Questions!!!

<br>

<br>

Where to find triphosphor tubes cheap and for a 3ft light?

<br>

Where to find a double 3ft bare batten cheap?

<br>

Where did you go to get ur batten and tubes???

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Baz</STRONG><BR><BR>Hungsta:

The answer to all 3 questions is an electrical wholesaler, or a lighting store.

<br>

I get mine from a shop called Shaboa but it is up here in the mountains. There are similar shops in the big smoke I am sure. Try the yellow pages.

<br>

<br>

Fiona:

<br>

Mine are currently just made from mdf, painted gloss white on the inside and sprayed matt black on the outside. They blend in well without being too much of an eyesore, but I certainly would not call them a 'feature' lol.

<br>

I am sure you could do the same thing with pine or some other timber which would look nice stained.

<br>

<br>

I am about to make a few more, using 'melamine' (i hope that it how it is spelt) which is that white laminated mdf. That way I wont need to paint the inside at all.

<br>

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: MagicaDiSpell</STRONG><BR><BR>Baz,

<br>

If you are using melamine, be careful that no water (or water vapour) is splashing at it. Melamine is not very water resistant (as can be seen on my kitchen drawers that showed swelling within 6 months of being installed! Grrrrrr! And they don't get much water on them at all!). Your MDF version with lacquer is probably more waterresistent than melamine.

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: YeW2001</STRONG><BR><BR>I should also add:

<br>

<br>

The official SCP response is:

<br>

<br>

Get an licensed electrician to do any/all electrical work for you.

<br>

<br>

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Baz</STRONG><BR><BR>Hi Sabine

<br>

<br>

One of my current lights is actually untreated mdf, and it's showing no signs of swelling 2 yrs down the track. I figure the melamine will just give me an extra barrier

<br>

<br>

I have glass lids on all my tanks, and am pretty careful not to splash water around. It was never planned as a long-term option, but I am surprised at how long it has lasted.

<br>

<br>

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: bimborocks</STRONG><BR><BR>for anyone who is thinking of building one from scratch i would suggest using some type of exterior plywood or marine ply as it will withstand the moisture and heat much better, as well as being structurally much stronger.

<br>

just a thought

<br>

James

<P><STRONG>Author: hungsta</STRONG><BR><BR>And for anyone interested like me........

<br>

<br>

I got a 2ft double batten for $27 at bunnings villawood

<br>

Phillips 18w triphosphor was $6

<br>

30w NEC biolux was $18

<br>

<br>

At cosmo lighting punchbowl

<br>

30w nec biolux was $15

<br>

30w nec triphosphor was $12

<br>

3ft double fluoro batten was $42

<br>

<br>

If anyone has anything to add please feel free.

<br>

<br>

<br>

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: jamesmcsyd</STRONG><BR><BR>Wondering if phillips make the 30W triphosphor tubes, and if so where I can get them in Sydney?

<br>

<br>

Bunnings wharehouse at Alexandria stock alot of tubes, including the NEC triphosphor. The grow one i think is about $16

<br>

<br>

James

<br>

<br>

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: hungsta</STRONG><BR><BR>Yeah that'll be a bargain if phillips have 30w.

<br>

<br>

Also i got mylar at accent hydroponics revesby, 5m x2m for $15

I have just layed my slab and would like to get the preferences of people with fish rooms so I can allow for levels with the doorway and the like.

<br>

thanx

<br>

Neil

ground concrete epoxy nonslip coated

tiles

rubber mats

polished timber boards

waterproof carpet

<p>

</DIV><H2>Replies »</H2><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Auscanuckafishy</STRONG><BR><BR>I would go with waterproof carpet tiles. Easily removed if need be, and also will do a fair job of insulating your floor, which will most likely be concrete, and will be VERY cold!

<br>

<br>

We have carpet underlay... it keeps the heat in, but it's not waterproof and is generally a pain. Feels nice on the feet though

. Problem is you have to take it out and dry it when it get's wet...... but it was alllllllllll free, so can't complain too much I suppose.

<br>

<br>

Mark

</DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: c2105208</STRONG><BR><BR>I'm with Mark, go for a marine carpet, perhaps one designed for boating. Not too expensive, comes in 3-4m wide rolls and doesn't look too bad either! Not as comfortable under bare feet though so you'd still want to wear shoes still for sensitive feet....

<br>

<br>

Tiles would be nice as well.... however it's easy enough to just lay marine carpet in small sections as well and you can still rip it up if required.

<br>

<br>

Cheers,

<br>

Adam

</DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: danceswithdingoes</STRONG><BR><BR>Italian turf mate

Its gr8t

</DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Adam Maskew</STRONG><BR><BR>Well I'd disagree with all the people who are saying put down a floor covering. Its a garbage collector for everything that you ever spill or bring in on your feet.

<br>

<br>

I'm definately a non-slip finish on the concrete man. Easy to clean with broom or water, doesn't rot, doesn't get wet and smellie, easy to disinfect.

<br>

<br>

We use a concrete pad somewhere between 100mm and 150mm depending on the size of tanks to be put on it. In your case 100mm would do unless you've got a 30, 000l+ tank hidden somewhere. Concrete offers enough insulation, most of your heat loses will be through the roof followed by the walls.

<br>

<br>

Adam

</DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: exiledonmainstreet</STRONG><BR><BR>The thick rubber mats that are raised, with holes woven throughout are ideal for floors that have a lot of water being constantly spilled, or the potential for water to be spilled. They keep the floor warm, make it easy to keep it from being water-logged, and cleaning is simple. Good luck.

</DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Anita ozfish</STRONG><BR><BR>Yep, I'm with Exiled.

I have raised rubber runners and mats on my floor - concrete slab underneath. All the dirt and water falls through so it isn't slippery and when I want to clean the floor, I just drag them outside, hose them down and sweep the floor - simple

<br>

"

Ich hab nichts gefragt aber bekom automatisch eine Antwort

"

</DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: phatoscarlover</STRONG><BR><BR>yeah id go with exiled and anita! The mats are like the mats they use in pubs and clubs behind the bars because there easy to clean and easy to move.

Andy

</DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: eedward</STRONG><BR><BR>you can get those mats @ clark rubber just incase anyone was wondering

</DIV>

also can i keep more then one female is a very large fry saver or will they fight.

thanks for the help in advance.

regards omar

Cheers Cal

<br>

<br>

Regards Ann

<br>

</P></DIV><H2>Replies »</H2><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Cichlid Boy</STRONG><BR><BR>I haven't built one, but I'd be going with 6 legs for that much weight (1200kg + ). That's the weight of a small-medium car!

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: kevsta</STRONG><BR><BR>I haven't built one either, but another option is to buy some dexion heavy duty pallet racking which should set you back around the high 400s.

<br>

<br>

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: aurea23</STRONG><BR><BR>i have had built by my dad a 3 tier 5x 2 rack. We used 50x25 mm tube with a 2.5 - 3mm wall thichkess, It has 6 legs and will literally hold tonnes...

<br>

<br>

Mike

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: hyperdive</STRONG><BR><BR>I'm currently running six tanks on 3 levels on a dexion pallet rack. four of the tanks are 4x2x18 and 2 are 4x2x14. It does it no problems, and the whole rack cost under $450 brand new, and you can dismantle it to move it in 5 minutes.

<br>

<P><STRONG>Author: MagicaDiSpell</STRONG><BR><BR>I am not sure what a dexion pallet is, but if you are using something with legs, I would go for more legs rather than less. Another point to take into account is point pressure. I am no structural engineer, but when we built our last extension we had to make the decision to sell our tank system, because the point pressure would have been too much for our concrete slab, even though the total weight of the system (3000 l of water plus tanks etc) would have been ok.

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: chorrylan</STRONG><BR><BR>hi,

<br>

I have built one but was working out what I was doing as I went

<br>

Mine is built from 22x38mm square form steel in 1.6mm wall thickness.

<br>

It's holding up perfectly for me using just 4 legs but I have smaller tanks (60 x 18 x 16 inches with around 270 litres of water each).

<br>

<br>

I would recommend strongly against the 1-inch x 1-inch profile steel though and recommend you use something with a rectangular cross-section if you're considering running 5-foot lengths with no support in the middle. I have no idea of the engineering explanation but if you keep everything else constant a square cross-section is far easier to bend than rectangular cross-section (assuming of course that the pressure is applied against the narrow side only)

<br>

<br>

I also built mine as a complete frame so theres's a complete shelf at the gound level to spread the weight around rather than literally standing on 4 leg-ends.

<br>

I needed to do this as the floor is irregular (slate) but would probably do it even if I was putting it on a concrete slab.

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<br>

There's some shots of the rack here to help get this in context:

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www.planetchan.com/laurie...ish/tanks/

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<br>

<br>

<br>

ps: being a paranoid sorta person and beng worried that I might be pushing my luck having only 4 supporting legs I had the tank bases made in three pieces. The base is made of a 40-inch piece n the middle and two 10-inch pieces at either end. This theoretically gives 'em a teensy bit more capacity to cope with any bends. This more of an issue when lifting than when on the rack though... if your rack bends I doubt minor details like a multi-pane base is going to save you. It does have the advantage though that the weakest component, where the hole was drilled, is in a separate 10-inch pane.

<br>

<br>

Laurie

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Craig Douglas</STRONG><BR><BR>My problem is the 1"x1". I looked at metal stands and almost all commercial stands are 50x50x1.6.

<br>

Craig.

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: c2105208</STRONG><BR><BR>I think some people often overestimate the load that can be taken on hollow sections....

<br>

<br>

50x50SHS Grade 350 Steel (2.5mm thickness) will take a maximum axial load of 124kN at 1.0m effective length (that's straight from calculations in Australian Standards AS4100, simplified in AISC DCT's). For those not structurally inclined, basically that means that raw load on each leg of about 12.4Tonne! The real length of the leg will depend on the connection... If rigid joint (welded both ends to horizontal support 'beams') then 1.0m effective length will mean about 1.4m leg length. If bolted at top and bottom then about 1.2m leg length. Of course you wouldn't run it at 12.4 tonne since for glass tanks especially deflections are to be kept minimal... I'd say run maximum 3 tonne on each leg at 1m effective length with this size section. If you want to run a rack of several tanks high, where the leg length will be 1.8m effective length (round figures), the max load would be reduced to 78kN (around 7.8Tonne). So, run 2 tonne per leg max. Don't forget spacing issues...Depends on the size of the tanks. Can you be more specific? Do the maths

In any case I do not mind if you e-mail me to double check sizes and spans.

<br>

<br>

Oh, and members subject to bending (the horizontal crossbeams between the leg for example) are a different kettle of fish totally, with different calculations to be done... And yes if you want to save money, rectangular sections are more economical than square sections when subject to bending if the load is on the narrow face. I won't go into details but it has to do with the amount of metal resisting the tensile and compressive forces in the top and bottom of the member respectively. You can get away with narrower width for members in bending if the section is deeper. Of course it would be better to just increase the size of the rectangular section - it would be stronger but less economical for the intended use.

<br>

<br>

MagicDiSpell - The pressure would be too much for your concrete slab? Did you have very old concrete or...? Concrete can take enormous loads. The only possible problem with point loading is concrete 'creep strain', which is a continual long-term (we're talking years here) deformation (leading to cracking usually) under high loads. In any case, minimal specs for residential slabs is generally 20MPa grade, so even if you get dud stuff from the factory, 0.75 of this (statistical reason for this) would still mean about 15MPa. 15Mpa is 15x10^6N/sq.m which equates to about 15Tonne/square metre critical load. Again, you'd only ever want to run it safely (so you can sleep at nights

) at around 30-40% of this maximum however. Even with a point load they'd have to be of seriously small section to cause many problems.... Are you sure you were not told other reasons why the tanks were a no-go?

<br>

<br>

Cheers

<br>

Adam

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<br>

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: SeayTaing</STRONG><BR><BR>Okay!

<br>

<br>

Seay

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: annparisi</STRONG><BR><BR>Thanks every one for all the advise. I think I will be going with the 6 leg option just to be sure.

<br>

<br>

Ann

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: hyperdive</STRONG><BR><BR>Just to clarify about the dexion, it's basically pallet rack beams with 4 legs. Each beam is around 9 ft long and can take more than two tonne of weight without extra support. I have the three levels with a little under a tonne on each level. There is no extra legs and the beams do not bow at all. The racks come in 2ft or 3ft widths front to back (or close to) so you have 2 beams per level.

<br>

<br>

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: approximate</STRONG><BR><BR>Hyperdive, do you mind telling me where you got the black pvc pipes from (as shown in the second picture)? Do you know if they come in smaller sizes? I was at Bunnings last weekend but couldn't find these 'pipes'.

<br>

<br>

Can someone please post pictures of their centralised air-pump system if it's not too much hassle?

<br>

<br>

Thanks.

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: hyperdive</STRONG><BR><BR>It's poly pipe, available from any irrigation, pump supply or pool supply place for next to nothing (about a dollar per meter for a medium sized pipe) the basic sizes are 1/2 inch, 3/4 inch, 1 inch, 1 1/2 inch etc up to a few inches.

<br>

<br>

It moulds to shape when filled with hot water and you can screw connections on, and remove them later without having to cut the pipe, so it's better than pvc in my opinion. It is available in pretty much any size from 4mm and up.

<br>

<P><STRONG>Author: syco120</STRONG><BR><BR>Hi there Ann , 6 x legs would be needed for your application given the tier requirements and based on the 5 foot length !!

<br>

(dont consider any less)

..If you care to look back through the pages , i'm sure Phil from brissie , has pic's up of a similar set-up, you might like to take a look...and i think the spec's were included in that post ....Good luck....

<br>

bob.

<br>

<br>

<br>

Andy , Do those racks come in a brighter colour and how do you manage to work around all those pipes and cords and things...

<br>

bob.

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<br>

<br>

<br>

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: hyperdive</STRONG><BR><BR>Unfortunately that was the only colour they came in at the time.

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<br>

The pipes are at the back of the tanks so there is no need to work back there 99% of the time.

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<P><STRONG>Author: danceswithdingoes</STRONG><BR><BR>Andy, how the heck do you actually get anything out of those tanks as they look to have only a few inches clearance

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</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: syco120</STRONG><BR><BR>Cool Andy, but that 1 % would scare the crap outa me

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Otherwise that industrial pallet racking yer using , sounds

<br>

cost effective and user friendly besides it has the option of hight variance from memory, But i have to ask how do you support the centre of the under tank from front to back, do you make something your self ???? Interesting !!! Also how do you find the movement seeing as its not welded ..

<br>

Thanx ,

<br>

bob.

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<br>

<br>

</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: hyperdive</STRONG><BR><BR>no movement whatsoever - it's as solid as any welded stand I've ever seen.

<br>

<br>

I have the tanks sitting on 16mm mdf for a little extra support, but it really doesn't need it. I've seen the racks with just foam underneath the tanks set up for years with no problems. I'm just a little paranoid.

<br>

<br>

As for the height, unfortunately I didn't have too much ceiling height to work with, so space had to be minimum. The distance between the top of the tank and the tank above is actually the gap you can see plus the height of the orange beam. The only hassle is putting anything large into the bottom two tanks, but most stuff can be put in through the ends anyway. Other than that, the gap is big enough to get my arm into the tank so that's all I need. I really haven't had a problem with it.

<br>

<br>

It was the price I paid for having three levels instead of two, but I guess it gets me another two tanks so I'm not complaining.

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<P><STRONG>Author: hyperdive</STRONG><BR><BR>I forgot to mention, there are actually no electrical leads at the back of the tanks. The black things you can see there are panduit straps (zip ties). The powerboard setup has been improved so there is no chance of water getting onto it.

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</P></DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Lee Miller</STRONG><BR><BR>Hi Ann,

<br>

<br>

You said;

<br>

<br>

Thanks every one for all the advice. I think I will be going with the 6 leg option just to be sure."

<br>

<br>

You haven't said whether or not you will be upsizing from the 25 x 25 x 1.6 RHS. I'll assume that you're not. IMHO that is WAAAAY too small. It's not so much the load on the verticals that will give you grief, as the distributed load on the horizontals and the shear force on the connections (between the horizontals and the verticals).

<br>

<br>

There has been some very good advice given on this topic (even if some was too technical for the average fish keeper

). Steel and glass flex at greatly different rates (modulus of elasticity) therefore an overloaded steel beam will flex more than the tank it supports leaving the middle of the tank unsupported - then something's gotta give - usually it's the front of the tank separating from the sides with water (and fish) all over the floor. The deeper the horizontal beam, the less flexing occurs. Personally I'd go for a 50mm minimum.

<br>

<br>

Other considerations - 1.6mm steel won't hold a very strong weld and it won't take long - in a fish tank situation - for rust to weaken the structure.

<br>

<br>

Just my opinion - good luck.

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<br>

PS: Can someone tell me how to do that quote thing?

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<br>

Thanks.

<br>

<br>

<br>

What sort of paint should i use ?

<br>

<br>

And while we're at it feel free to list you favourite background colour. I'm still undecided between dark blue(almost black) and a lighter blue.

<br>

<br>

Thanks

<br>

Matt

</DIV><H2>Replies »</H2><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: dodol</STRONG><BR><BR>Hi,

<br>

<br>

I used oil based paint. Acrylic won't stick to the glass. Forget about buying those stuff to make acrylic paint to stick on a glass.

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<br>

My fave color is black, as it gives an impression of endlessnes & empty. Also it's a neutral color.

<br>

<br>

Dark grey works better than any blue on the fish...

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<br>

Regards,

<br>

<br>

DD

</DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: danceswithdingoes</STRONG><BR><BR>I use blackboard paint works well 2 coat finish

</DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: ndoboi</STRONG><BR><BR>Im a big fan of matt black spray paint, from any hardware

<br>

store. Cheap, great look. Just make sure you clean the glass

<br>

well before painting.

<br>

My latest tank (48x18x20) I even painted the bottom black

<br>

as I have a black sand substrate with sand sifters

<br>

(Ectodus Descampsi) - the tank looks great even when their

<br>

breeding pit reaches all the way to the glass.

<br>

<br>

<br>

Steve

</DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: bimborocks</STRONG><BR><BR>i think the one colour looks not so great so i painted the back of my tank with a sponge usind blue paint. then when that was dry if you looked from th efront there was patched which were solid blue with lightish specks and flecks. i think got a can of black paint and painted the back (over the blue) when it is dry it looks really good with the back mainly blue with darcker patches and specks of black/dark blue. i think it looks way better than just the solid blue

<br>

<br>

just a thought but its sorta hard to explain

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<br>

James

</DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: akaomar</STRONG><BR><BR>hi

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i have just painted my 2foot and my 4foot black my fish love it

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<br>

i keep jack dempseys and they get really scared when you walk towards the tank,,,now you hit the glass and they don't hide

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<br>

they even swim on the top

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<br>

so i guess that most ppl go with black only if i had a pic i would of sent it

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<br>

<br>

omar

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<br>

<br>

<br>

<br>

<br>

<br>

</DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: BengaBoy</STRONG><BR><BR>I used acrylic

matt

paint and put it on with a roller

<br>

no problems at all

<br>

I dont know why one would have problems with acrylic paint sticking to glass?

<br>

You could paint some plants on in green then paint over the top of that blue, or green or black.

</DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: Harward</STRONG><BR><BR>Thanks everyone !!

<br>

<br>

Black it is......

</DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: aymenz</STRONG><BR><BR>

hey harward....

<br>

my advice is to choose and paint using the oil based black paint .....

<br>

<br>

only because akaomar's dad is a professional painter and he told him to use this type of paint as stated before

<br>

<br>

Quote:

i painted my 2foot and 4foot black paint

<br>

<br>

but he forgot to mention what type of paint and the color...

<br>

<br>

so go ahead and you won't regret it....

<br>

<br>

</DIV>

</DIV><H2>Replies »</H2><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: slotha</STRONG><BR><BR>

www.malawicichlidhomepage.com/panis/frankpanis3000.htm

<br>

Heres a little bit of info on them.

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HTH

</DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: ducksta</STRONG><BR><BR>nice link

<br>

<br>

I personally dont have any, but I know a guy who uses quite a few as fry raising tanks. They have the benefit over using Bunnings style tubs, since you can include a glass panel for viewing side on. His aren't quite the size of the monster above, but the main issue (he tells me) is sealing them. Provided you seal them well, they should be as good or better than glass tanks

</DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: mbuna1</STRONG><BR><BR>i read somewhere that you have to reseal every few years.

</DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: c2105208</STRONG><BR><BR>I looked into it myself as a cheap option for grow-out tanks but found that (since fibreglass is not really recommended) the epoxy sealant was hard to come by, let alone at a reasonable price - once I found a supplier that is. It's not cheap stuff, and you will need a fair bit of it to make a decent size tank..

<br>

<br>

Cheers,

<br>

Adam

</DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: chuckmeister</STRONG><BR><BR>Building a tank out of ply is very simple, though I wouldn't build a tank under say a couple thousand litres as this is the benifit of using fibreglass. Yes the ply has to be fibreglassed(glassed). It also is probably not really cost effective. The price of tanks in shops is really quite cheap now due to competition. But for a bigger tank basically you build the frame (like in the link) and put on the ply. but I would have glassed the inside with say about 6 ounces of fibreglass.This is mainly just a skin over the ply. It keeps everything together and sealed and dry. I would then have flowcoated (fibreglass sealer) the entire inside. U could then leave it for the water or paint etc. Now the outside is where you put your strength. You want to make sure that you have plenty of frames, depending on the tank maybe every foot or two (on a bigger tank,bigger frames spaced further apart) Then the whole lot including the frames gets glassed together to make a very strong tank. The amount or thickness of the fibreglass depends on the size of the tank. The beauty of fibreglass resides in its relative strength. If you were to tackle a ply tank I would suggest looking in the yellow pages, finding a boatbuider and going and having a chat as there are different types of resins, fibreglass etc. Also have a tank size already planned so he can more acurately advise you.

also stick with the same guy for advice as their are many ways of doing it

<br>

<br>

<br>

Cheers Charlie

</DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: c2105208</STRONG><BR><BR>Note the point I also tried to make that you can't use polyester resin as it is considered to perhaps leech chemicals into the water - epoxy resin's should be used, at least as the final sealing coat. Polyester-resin based flowcoat is also not deemed safe for aquaculture use either.

<br>

<br>

This is the problem I have had when looking into it - (1) finding a supplier for either epoxy-sealant, epoxy paint, or reasonably priced epoxy resin. and (2) finding any of these at the reasonable price anywhere for that matter.

<br>

<br>

Any ideas there Charlie?

</DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: crusty the clown</STRONG><BR><BR>For epoxy try Megapoxy, Vivacity engineering they have timber boat builders using there epoxies and glues there is also a new rubberized epoxy that takes a bit more movement and it is Australian made also 600g chop double bia is what I'm going to use on concrete block walls plywood base with a 19mm glass front 3600 litre.

<br>

Neil

</DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: chuckmeister</STRONG><BR><BR>I'd also agree about polyester resins. We use a product called Dericain (Dont know how its spelt) for all repairs under the waterline on boats. Its actually a vinyl-ester designed for that purpose. Its easier to use,cheaper and drys quicker than epoxy though I dont buy the stuff,only use it so I couldn't tell you what its worth. I'd build the tank out of polyester myself and 'skin' the inside with vinylester (or epoxy if it makes you feel better

)

<br>

As for sealing the inside standard flowcoat also shouldn't be used as it has a wax in it that leaches out. Gelcoat (flowcoat without the wax) on the other hand is completely inert when fully cured (so I've been told

) though to use gelcoat requires a different build technique. eg built from a mould. We've just made 4 60foot live tanks for crayfish at work and the inside is sealed with Gel. Maybe a sealant like the paint they use for the inside of cement spa's ? It drys like a plastic. There's also a flowcoat designed for watertanks etc that resist bacteria growth and doesn't break down eg suitable for human consumption. Your best bet is still to talk to a wholesaler of resins or boatbuilder. I cant recommend one as I'm in Perth.

<br>

<br>

I hope some of that made sense

<br>

<br>

Charlie

</DIV><DIV id=Atextbox><P><STRONG>Author: c2105208</STRONG><BR><BR>That all makes sense Charlie, I have some experience in fibreglassing / epoxy and I'm aware of the good points you made. I was for the most part trying to find a supplier for them at a reasonable price, or ideas of places to try. Most of the places around here are very expensive

<br>

<br>

Thanks for your information, I'm sure it will benefit many people here who are interested.

<br>

<br>

Cheers,

<br>

Adam

</DIV>

Just wondering what you used in place of the yank ingredients, such as what concrete and sand? And generally how you went.

Going to have a crack at it this weekend, just wondering if theres any specifics, or you can use any concrete or sand?

Cheers Luke.

I find it really difficult to vacuum my gravel each week with all the rocks and so on that i have in the tank. Because it's a small tank, I usually just end up removing all the rocks and puting them back.

The problem this causes is that the rocks invariably never go back in the way they come out and this upsets the fish for a while and they seem to not eat for two or three days after I have changed the water/vacuummed the gravel.

I was wanting to construct a lightweight cave and rock structure out of poly pipe and some sort of adhesive but wanted it to look as natural as possible. This will mean that I just have to pull out one thing each week to clean the tank and will make my life infinitely easier.

That's a lot of background for a simple question so sorry about all that but here it is. Has anybody else done something like this and if so, how did you make it look natural. Would an expanding filler like "Selleys No More Big Gaps" be toxic for the fish, especially if the started picking algae off it?

Thanks

Martin.

What type of paint could you use on them to change their plain white colour?

styrofoam background

i have a nice cement brick thet has a hole perfect for my fish in it is it ok to use it?

Alex

http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/breedi...gitt_rocks.html

Interested to know if anyone has tried it before?

Any comments or thoughts?

Cheers.

What is the stuff for sale at the LFS to expensive? Yeh well it is for me.

I know of a place where their is millons of basalt (I think) boulders of varying sizes. The rocks are a dark grey shading to lighter grey. They are smooth to touch but are pitted in many places. The trouble is they are from a rocky beach down past Albion park (Past Wollongong) near Bombo. I don't know if it is really ethical (or legal)taking these rocks of the beach but their really is gazillions of them and a lot of locals have them all in their gardens so they seem to take it. The trouble is they are really heavy. More than twice as heavy as similar sized sandstone.

Are rocks taken from the ocean likely to be cleaner than rocks taken from elswhere?

Also has any one tried making rocks from cement covered polystyrene? I have seen a few internet sites talking about this and I was wondering if any one has tried it and how they went. I am a bit paroniod about putting heavy rocks in my tank and this sounds like a good alternative.

Does anyone put anything under the rocks in their tanks to protect the glass?

If so what do you use?

I really like the look of large rocks in a tank but like I said I am worried about breaking the glass.

regards, JDHOGG

5. Please do not SHOUT (i.e.: using ALL CAPS).

could someone please post a good DIY recipe for salt that would be suitable for a mixed rack system running both tangs and malawis.

All my water is out of a watertank so my salts are zero! Great for breeding african river cichlids but expensive on the salt if I use Seachem for rifties ....

thanks in advance for any help..

Tim